Hi,

I like the idea of Oil Pressure gauge.......

Volts help if you use a power take off (I will make a separate post of this).

Mods have been done on a K1100RS 1993......

 

If you need a more exacting break down I will be happy to answer your questions, basically, I am running this off where the original sensor whole that comes out of the block, it fits - thats the good news.... - and, yes - my fairing covers this all......

So I get to keep my dash board warning light, plus........

 
I replaced the fuel and temp gauges with matching VDO's as well (Sorry if that offends the purists out there, "They are still German!")
I have also replaced the bubbles with blue LEDS ($AU3.50 each) as well as the speedo and tachometer - looks cool....... More photos to come........


Foot note.....
Do not use brass fittings.....
Some of the more educated will maybe give you a reason way however from my end..... they crack leading to a not so plesent ending.....

VDO have pressure sensors with warning switch for low pressure, then you don't
need the T-piece and original switch.......you only need a short straight tube.
This type is normaly used when you are using the hole for the genuine switch.

This sensor looks like the one you allready have....but it's more with the same
housing but different internals......don't know which version you have.

Thanks,

I tried to find such information on the form before I proceeded but nay have missed it......
Do you see any problems in what I have done so far?

What's the VDO number on the sensor you have?

I shall find it when I'm back home.

Marky Boy OZ wrote:
Dovyou see any problems in what I have done so far?

Looks OK for the function, but it could be that some parts is unnecessery.
The sensor lies a bit exposed if you're unlucky and hit something, even if
the spoiler is some protection........just my thoughts.

And well received.
Less parts are better. Agreed.
Once again, I did search form for "Extra gauges" and found a capillary type mod that I decided against. I had committed to my partner that surly someone else has done this...... Through my own fault it took a little running around to get to where I am now. Man I just want her back on the road at this point. I will have some interesting input on Chinese front disc rotors that are sold for ABS models that don't fit...   They are at a engineers as of now being modified for the Abs rotor. Is it worth putting up?

Hi,

I tried logging into the form from my laptop to answer your question with regard to the VDO sender, it's a 360009 oil pressure sender.

Marky Boy OZ wrote:Hi,

, it's a 360009 oil pressure sender.

Then you have two switches available for your low oil pressure warning lamp.

The original switch opens its contacts at 0,30 bar.
The VDO switch opens its contacts at 0,48 bar.

Of the two terminal at the VDO sensor....the one with lowest resistance to
ground (~0 ohms) is the switch, the other one is for the gauge.

By judging the pictures in the first post, the terminal closest to the camera
should be the one for the gauge.

Thank you once again.
I will let you know how I go.

Inge K. wrote:VDO have pressure sensors with warning switch for low pressure, then you don't
need the T-piece and original switch.......you only need a short straight tube.
This type is normaly used when you are using the hole for the genuine switch.

This sensor looks like the one you allready have....but it's more with the same
housing but different internals......don't know which version you have.

Mate - you were dead right, less parts the better - my work was weeping a little - I colud not put her back together like that.
I took your advice and wired accordingly.
No leaks, a oil pressure gauge and dashboard warning light.....



My fairing will cover all once I have properly insulated all terminals....

End result.......

Update....

If anybody is looking to swap out the fuel gauge for a VDO.
It is possible here in Australia to get one "Suitable for old Holden's".
This way you do not have to reverse the reader in the petrol tank. (Pain in the bum)

Over seas riders would look for a gauge suitable for "OLDER" cars  (they are wired to read in reverse).

I'm considering doing this to a K1100LT because I think the temp gauge is worthless and this would be a good way to roughly monitor the oil level. 

How is this working out?

Does the 360009 fit into the factory threads for the OEM oil pressure switch?

Does the 360009 hang down lower than the oil sump plate?

duck wrote: Does the 360009 fit into the factory threads for the OEM oil pressure switch?

No, sensor 1/8 NPT, K M12x1,5.

But VDO have sensors that fit directly.

Another question is if the threaded spigot reach deep enough as it's a
rather chunky/wide sensor.

I was poking around and it looks like VDO has several senders that are 12x1.5.  They all look like they have a sizable can on them.

What's the correct pressure range for a K?

The bike already has a VDO Vision fuel gauge so  I'll just get a VDO Vision oil gauge with ohms that match whatever sender I get.

duck wrote:What's the correct pressure range for a K?

Relief valve opens at 5.4 Bar, so with a gauge up to 6 Bar (or 80 psi) should have it covered.

Learn something new everyday.  I had no idea the K engine had an oil pressure relief valve.

5.4 bar = 78.3 psi so it looks like this one will do the trick.

https://www.egauges.com/80-PSI-5-Bar-M12x1-5K-10-180-Ohms-8-5-PSI-WC-p/360-007.htm

How does the OEM switch work?  (I know ir grounds.)  Does it go off when there's too much or too little pressure?

duck wrote: I had no idea the K engine had an oil pressure relief valve.

RHS of the pump, above the water inlet stub.

duck wrote:Does it go off when there's too much or too little pressure?

The contact opens at above ~0,3 Bar.

duck wrote:Learn something new everyday.  I had no idea the K engine had an oil pressure relief valve.

If it didn't the oil filter would blow up like a balloon, and the seal would pop. Happened to me years ago on a rally car. Re-built the engine and fitted a new oil pump. Some moisture must have got in to the pressure relief valve in storage, and it had stuck closed. Took the car up the road for a test drive without the bonnet ( hood to our trans Atlantic friends) and wondered where the oil mist on the windscreen was coming from. It also welded the needle in the oil pressure gauge to maximum, so God knows what pressure it actually got up to.

I've never claimed to be anything more than a shadetree mechanic so my knowledge of engines is limited to what I learned about internal combustion engines in my high school physics class.  I learn most things by breaking stuff.

So here's my plan:

When I ordered the 80 psi gauge on eGauges it then gave me the option of selecting from several different sender units so I picked the M12 metric one and then they gave me a package deal of $73 for the set.  (w/ free shipping - Woohoo!)

I plan to try this on a K1100LT where it will be exposed since the LT has no belly pan.  Of course a big silver can down there will be an eyesore so while I'm getting some other stuff coated in Line-X truck bed liner I'll also have the sender can coated.  That way it will be black and the truck bed liner should provide it some protection from rocks and gravel.  I'll also add a front fender extender.

Then I'm going on a nice 4,000+ mile long ride and will report back on how it works out.

I made the same mod on a 11RS and a 11LT.
My Oil pressure switches didn’t blow up....
Ride safe mate....