I just picked up a excellent condition K75s crash pad with non functioning hazard switch for a really good price. I was the only bidder on Ebay. I was prepared for a fight which didn't eventuate. My original one has been modified to take aftermarket switches which don't really fit that well.  I think I should be able to get the new switch going again hopefully. Do any Ozzies have a OEM on/off dash switch. I believe the function markings can be changed. 
Regards Martin.

Matin, if you're a member of the Motobrick forum then there is a post on there that has info on switches that may be of interest. I downloaded the attached PDF files years ago but can't see them now (I'm not a member on that forum).

Here is a link to that post.

I'll send you a PM.

Thanks Gaz but as the OEM switches sit on the meeting point of two surfaces non OEM don't fit well. I have been trolling switch sites but I haven't found anything so far but I will give it a look.
Regards Martin.

Martin, I think the hazard switch is a bit more complicated than a simple on/off.  I'm pretty sure there are three terminals on it.  Even when the flashers are off, there is a connection made through the swiitch to allow the turn signals to operate.

it is just a simple on off

the third terminal is for the illumination of the globe whilst active (many of the lamps in the hazard switch no longer work until cleaned up electrically , they corrode on the globe contacts , amongst other things  )

pretty easy to take apart and rectify

I bought a brand new hazard switch for the RT because it didn't have one and its plug and play. But it has never lit up for me. Nor do the switches on the K1100LT. Am I missing something?

Thanks for the replies. Apparently Carling type switches may fit, if I can't find a OEM switch I will wait until the pad arrives and see if a Carling will fit. The problem I had with the non OEM ones  now fitted was they were too deep and they would not go in far enough. The end result was that the both ends protruded about 5mm. Also  the holes had to be enlarged to take them. Due to the scarcity of these pads in good condition I do not want to cut it in any way. I can't remember the last time one of these showed up on Ebay in any condition. The other alternative is to try the BM shop, unfortunately he is getting hard to get hold of.
Regards Martin.

On U.S. models the hazard switch is a SPDT switch with no illumination.  In the OFF position, it grounds one of the terminals of the flasher unit allowing the turn signals to operate.   In the ON position a different terminal on the flasher is grounded flashing all turn signals in unison.

I am not sure of how the flasher unit will work without the proper switch.

I have found the Carling type switches locally prices range from $19.99 to $29.99 ea. So that works out at $60.00 to $90.00 to replace the three. They can be sourced cheaper from Aliexpress. However it looks like the best bet is to source an OEM one. One is bound to turn up eventually, hopefully, maybe. I've been sort of looking for a replacement pad on and off for probably 10+ years.
Regards Martin.

Point-Seven-five wrote:On U.S. models the hazard switch is a SPDT switch with no illumination.  In the OFF position, it grounds one of the terminals of the flasher unit allowing the turn signals to operate.   In the ON position a different terminal on the flasher is grounded flashing all turn signals in unison.

I am not sure of how the flasher unit will work without the proper switch.

The one I bought was the genuine one and its the same as you describe. Once I connected it to the connector that was already on the loom for it I immediately had working hazards, no illumination as you found.

narva have a similar to carling type switch
again its over sized for our dash pads last time I bought one was $16 or so

jaycar have something that may suffice also for about $12.95


depends on whether you have the early of later type flasher relay (early = green ) to illuminate a lamp inside the switch
I suspect that along with many changes at the late 85  to 86 versions they dropped the lamp flashing in the switch option

Early hazard switches had the bulb in them, and three cables. Later and replacement switches don't have the bulb and have two cables. A few years ago I opened up a non working early switch and the leads from the bulb had corroded away, so I removed it altogether, along with the third cable, cleaned up the switch, and installed it on my bike. It worked fine. The third connection is just to earth the bulb in the switch.

So the switch for the hazards is nothing special. That opens up the solution a bit again. However I thought that with all the Café/Scrambler conversion going on there would be an abundance of spare switches around. I am hoping the pad will arrive early next week, it's coming from Tassie. With the pad in hand it will be easier to find a solution hopefully possibly maybe.
Regards Martin.

charlie99 wrote:depends on whether you have the early of later type flasher relay (early = green ) to illuminate a lamp inside the switch.  I suspect that along with many changes at the late 85  to 86 versions they dropped the lamp flashing in the switch option

That's incorrect Charlie.  Both the early and late model flasher modules have the capability to drive the globe integrated into the switch. Even if you check your photo above, you'll see that both of them have a terminal labelled "I" right beside the one labelled "15".  This is the terminal that "I"lluminates the bulb.

The switch configuration is a very standard SPST-NO switch with a common lead shared between the switch and bulb.  See the diagram below:



It is available in a large variety of rocker styles.  I helped install such a switch on a mate's K100 and the bulb illumination worked fine.

the "c" terminal on the flasher unit is not installed on some later units rob  just a component not fitted makes a difference

have a look at this thread  perhaps post 32 makes sense

https://www.k100-forum.com/t1847-hazard-warning-switch-light-bulb

charlie99 wrote:the "c" terminal on the flasher unit is not installed on some later units rob  just a component not fitted makes a difference

have a look at this thread  perhaps post 32 makes sense

https://www.k100-forum.com/t1847-hazard-warning-switch-light-bulb

You're right. I misread the schematic. Silly me.

MartinW wrote:So the switch for the hazards is nothing special. That opens up the solution a bit again. However I thought that with all the Café/Scrambler conversion going on there would be an abundance of spare switches around. I am hoping the pad will arrive early next week, it's coming from Tassie. With the pad in hand it will be easier to find a solution hopefully possibly maybe.
Regards Martin.

the switch is modified from what the standard spdt switch implies on early models , and if you want to run with the internal globe on an early type relay

but if a later model relay is the standard ...just two wires to the switch and the standard spdt switch will work quite well

just to clarify

I contacted someone who is wrecking one on Gumtree. He has a pad with a switch, I messaged whether he would sell just the switch. Awaiting an answer. I also spotted a couple of other vendors wrecking on Gumtree so hopefully I might get one of them. I might have to buy the whole pad with switch which might be a possibility depending on price.
Regards Martin.

So my 84RT has the green relay......and the new switch has the 3 wires, not 2.....................

So should I have a light in the switch then...?
I do have a black relay in my parts shelf.....

the only thing of any matter is that the switch , when connected with three wires is not a simple spdt type when connected to the green relay type   as in the off position it may blow up the diode feed out of the relay ...other issues may also result
other wise just connect up the 2 correct wires ...and no issue further

the bmw version for this application uses a bumper so that the switch cannot close to the off  (n/c position ) (or the switch bridge inside the switch has been cut off so that "normal off operation" cant happen )


does that help ?

I decided to do a bit more research. The brick pad switches were used on the R series bikes as well, the latest one I found on Ebay was of a 2004 model. A new one from Motobins $33.78 Au plus freight. It pays to do a bit of research. Now that I've got prices  I might try the BM shop, if I can get him on the phone?
Regards Martin.

I've got onto a switch locally that should do the job. It's a heated grip switch, which I believe will do the job. Depending on the answer to my question it will determine it's function. Does this switch have a light when turned on. The switches on my pad control hazard lights, fan override and light bar/air horn which when turned on activates the light bar and  puts the air horn into the horn circuit.
Regards Martin.

A heated grip switch is a single pole double throw (SPDT) center off configuration.  The hazard light switch is a single pole single throw (SPST) configuration. You should be OK with that switch as a 4-way emergency flasher activation switch. You can connect the centre common wire to the flasher module and both of the other wires to  ground. With this wiring setup, the 4-way emergency flasher mode can be activated no matter which direction you press the switch. The heated grip switch has no internal lamp.

I'm still convinced that BMW used the same series of switches on their cars. All of them have the moldings inside to take a bulb and again, in all cases, the icon is glued in i.e. pick an icon for the function. When it goes into the car they solder in the bulb and add a translucent icon. So I think  

At one time I did have a fully-loaded crashpad where I'd replaced the solid icons with translucent coloured plastic and added the bulbs, but it didn't last long. I found that in our climate the copper tracking corroded way too quickly so I moved the whole lot onto waterproof switches mounted in the side of the fairing. No problems since.

Dai wrote: the icon is glued in i.e. pick an icon for the function.

It isn't even glued, but is push fit...the small plastic plate have a small barb on two of the sides.

I have used the heated grip switch and rewired it so in one position it grounds the ABS reset while in the other position it grounds the fan relay turning on the radiator fan. 

Yes, I lose the momentary function on the ABS reset, but in all my riding, I have only used it once when my battery died.  A fault reset at the diagnostic plug took care of that one.  For the rare times I might need it, I can turn the switch off myself.

Thanks again guys, I'm still waiting for the vendor to get back with a price. So none of the OEM switches were illuminated, however it would be possible to add a bulb. While I don't need an illuminated hazard or fan switch I would really like one on the Horn of Death/ light bar to remind me that it is armed. 140Db horns are illegal in Qld and the OEM one is ignored, but it is useful for polite acknowledgements whereas the Horn of Death scares  the hell out of people.   I keep on threatening the Honourable Minister for Finance and Recreation that I'm going to fit one to her car as it also has a pathetic horn.
Regards Martin.

Is that 140 dB(A) Martin? Just asking because manufacturer boast about volume but might be measuring that within several cms of the horn and unweighed. The A-weighing is used to measure environmental noise and the output of the horn should be a lower level when weighed and measured 1 metre up and 45° away from the horn.

I got mine locally a couple of years ago from https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Stebel-Nautilus-Compact-Motor-Bike-Air-Horn-Black-139dB-12-volt-Motorcycle-Loud/121247579419? I found the specifications on another site.
It is heaps better than the OEM horn and cars do not ignore it.
Regards Martin.

Point-Seven-five wrote:I have used the heated grip switch and rewired it so in one position it grounds the ABS reset while in the other position it grounds the fan relay turning on the radiator fan. 

Yes, I lose the momentary function on the ABS reset, but in all my riding, I have only used it once when my battery died.  A fault reset at the diagnostic plug took care of that one.  For the rare times I might need it, I can turn the switch off myself.

For this you could use the switch ending on #306, stays when pushed down...
returns when pushed up.

MartinW wrote:So none of the OEM switches were illuminated, however it would be possible to add a bulb.

Hazard switch on early models, and some used on police models were illuminated.
But the bulbs did have a short life, did change one in the RS after 3-4 years.
I think it still functions ......

Thanks Inge, what about running a LED with a resistor is there enough room. I been waiting for two days for an answer on the price for the heated grip switch, which was close enough for me to ride to and get. If I don't get an answer by the end of today I'll try another vendor there are a couple of bricks getting wrecked. I'm hoping that the new pad will arrive sometime this week and I can pull apart the switch and get it working and see what can be done about illuminating it.
Regards Martin.

Just picked up my heated grip switch. I also went to Jaycar and got some resistors and a couple of LED's. I'm waiting for the dash pad and hazard switch to arrive before I determine which switch to illuminate.
Regards Martin.

MartinW wrote:Thanks Inge, what about running a LED with a resistor is there enough room.

Many years since I checked the inside of these switches, but I'll guess that a
3 mm diode will fit....maybe you need to adjust the flange a bit with a file.
Also the legs gonna need more space as you can't bend them so easy as on
the small bulbs that normaly is used for this.
Not so shure if it's space enough for a resistor too, but you gonna soon find
out about that.
About which switch to use....the one for the heated grips does not have a
translucent symbol plate...so you put that to the side.

MartinW wrote:Thanks Inge, what about running a LED with a resistor is there enough room. I been waiting for two days for an answer on the price for the heated grip switch, which was close enough for me to ride to and get. If I don't get an answer by the end of today I'll try another vendor there are a couple of bricks getting wrecked. I'm hoping that the new pad will arrive sometime this week and I can pull apart the switch and get it working and see what can be done about illuminating it.
Regards Martin.

try a 1/8th watt resistor (they are really small) , perhaps something like 680 ohms  ( a bit less than the normal 20 milliamp) but with high brightness leds these days could work out quite well ....aim for at least 3000 milli candella for a good daytime indicator through the lens ...(far brighter than a standard  "grain of wheat globe "( and only in a narrowed direction towards the lens ...jaycar charge heaps for these quite common high brightness leds ...but if its convenient for the purpose ...could last far longer than any globe substitute

I managed to get an LED that fitted and had to run a 470 ohm resistor in series but it was all small enough to fir and it works well.

Inge K. wrote:Many years since I checked the inside of these switches, but I'll guess that a
3 mm diode will fit....maybe you need to adjust the flange a bit with a file.
Also the legs gonna need more space as you can't bend them so easy as on
the small bulbs that normaly is used for this.
Not so shure if it's space enough for a resistor too, but you gonna soon find
out about that.

3mm LED - yes. You can get a 1/4 watt resistor in there too. There's a groove molded into the switch which the LED leg/resistor leg must sit in. If it doesn't, the switch slider will either not move or will wreck your newly-installed LED setup.

My absolutely mint dash pad just arrived, switch took less than a minute to fix spayed some LPS contact cleaner waited a minute and it now works. I decided to take the black toggle cover off to see about fitting a LED pushed two small screwdrivers under the edges on both sides and cover and with a fair bit of wrangling I got it off. I discovered it had a globe I applied power but dud globe. At the moment I'm stuck trying to get the back off he switch you need to get it over four lugs but o far I have not been successful. Any ticks to separating it I don't want to damage it.
Regards Martin.

I use a thin screwdriver blade and brute force. The latter is an absolute requirement.

Dai I don't like subjecting small plastic parts to brute force. 99% of the time it tends to come off badly with bits disappearing in to the recesses of my garage. I might endeavour to make two forked tools to get the slots over the lugs all at the same time. Second option is to slightly grind down the lugs with a pencil burr then use a small screw on reassembly or a dab of glue.
Regards Martin.

Ah - small bits. Yes, there's three small bits in there; the sliding contact, a tiny spring and an even smaller end cap over the spring. I wasn't really joking that much about the BF&I; the screwdriver slides in next to the lug and once the outside has been forced up enough to clear the lug, a twist of the screwdriver pushes the corner of the baseplate out and is then clamped out by the nearest thumb. Repeat on lug no.2 on the same side and as that comes clear, the whole lot falls to pieces.

I have used Dai's BF&I method and it works every time. Even the old switches are still pliable enough to take it.

Scary but done, brute force did it. I had two LED's but blew one and the other one has run away after seeing what I did to the first one. I applied power to the globe and it worked the reason for it not working before disassembly was a broken wire. Off to Jaycar tomorrow to get some 3mm LED's the ones I had were 5mm and probably would fit at a pinch. I need to get some 2 and 3 pin connectors that are small enough to be pushed through the pad. So I should have it all back together on Friday.
Regards Martin.

470 Ohms is too low a value where the applied voltage is 12V. That's an OK size for when the applied voltage is about 5V. A more suitable resistor is between 1000 and 1200 Ohms, 1/4 Watt. That will limit the current to about 11mA when the alternator is providing full charge at 14V, a little less than 11mA with a full battery. You can get slightly more intensity by using a resistor between 890 - 920 Ohms.

Rob thanks for the information much appreciated. I had a look at Jaycars online cattledog and there quite a few different 3mm LED's what should size should I be looking for. 
Regards Martin.

Thanks to all that contributed, I finally got everything sorted, Jaycar gave me the wrong resistors 510k instead of 510 Ohms. It took me a while to work out what was going on. I had two packets and after going through every resistor in one packet and not getting a reading I switched to the other packet. Only when it worked did I work out what was going on.  I tried filing the groove where the wire for the globe went to take the resistor but found  it was too hard to route the wires, they have to be wired different than the globe wiring. I ended up drilling two holes through the globe holder and poking the LED legs through to the back and mounted the resistor on the back, made life a lot easier. I used some fine wet and dry to remove the now incorrect symbols heated grips and hazard. Once the symbols were removed I buffed them with and air grinder with a cloth mop and plastic polish. Due to their small size I glued them to the soft jaws on my vice with a  hot glue gun. Once buffed just popped them of and scrapped of the glue easily with my finger nail. Tomorrow I'm going to look at some switch symbols at the auto supply places and Jaycar. I've got a feeling they will be too big, so if that doesn't work I'll try the local hobby shop. And if they don't have anything I  will try to any out an appropriate symbol in vinyl to use as masking and spray or paint it with a small brush. I used 2 and 3 pin nylon connectors to wire up all off the switches which are small enough to be pushed through the dash pad making maintenance a lot easier. It now looks a hell of a lot better with three matching OEM switches than the one OEM and two protruding aftermarket switches.
Regards Martin.

looks great

Thanks Charlie I am glad that I stuck with OEM switches, besides the resistor stuff up it was pretty easy and straight forward.
Regards Martin.

charlie99 wrote:looks great

+1.......but to be pedantic, they are mounted 180 degree wrong.
From factory the switches is mounted with the symbols closest to the driver.
(Then the hazard switch symbol gonna be correct way around, too).