So, while travelling too the Ulster GP earlier today, and with just 30mins of a two hr journey to go, i reached the Hillsborough roundabout, only to discover i had a limp gearlever .... not a dicky bird, nada, nothing.
Thankfully, i have breakdown and recovery so finally got home by 13:00.

15:00 ... I had a go at jiggling the lever to try get her from 5th  into neutral. I managed it, but the shaft is rotating or suchlike and it seems I can move it in and out of the casing a quarter inch or so

Can anyone enlighten me as to what could have gone amiss

Thanks in expectation

Rod + K1100lt

Grub screw in the transmission has probably come loose. Read this thread: https://www.k100-forum.com/t5030-final-drive-checkup-and-dealing-with-that-floppy-grub-screw

Rod, going on the forum threads here etc unless the gear lever is rotating on the splines and which knowing your K is well maintained its most unlikely. the other is that darn grub screw.

From what I see that's a rebuild gearbox or swap out another one and that's most likely the easier option. Having done a clutch and rear seal job changing a gearbox is a doddle once you have one to hand.

Have a word with Will, he has been sourcing K1100 parts.

Question for the forum: will a K100 gearbox do the job, 8 valve, 16 valve?

Case is different before about may 90 (no anchor point for the torque arm on paralever) and the top gear is slightly different ratio K100 8V and K75 is 1.67 and all 16V are 1.61

Doing the grub screw is not that daunting of a task if you take your time.   In my experience it's a fairly straightforward job with a major payback.  It only takes a bit over an hour longer than doing a clutch spline lube.

It was the first job I did on my RT w/ABS when I got just so I could ride it home.  I started at 10am and had the bike on the road at 5pm with all splines lubed, swing arm bearings lubed, new brake pads and all hardware torqued properly with anti-seize.

28,000 miles later the transmission is working flawlessly with no further grub screw issues.  Of all the places BMW could have used red Loctite why didn't they use it on that screw?

thanks All for your informative replies.

I am on the quest and hope to get some progress today

Am hopeful it's the "grub screw", but we'll see

adios
Rod

I am thinking of getting one of those small 1500lb lifts for under the engine
I saw a piece by Motorhobo on Motobrick.com
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=5254.0
That goes some way to explain it's use.
I am wondering about the wooden block though, and whether I will need it

Any advice ???

ta
Rod

Rod

When I did mine we had a jack under the engine and the block of wood. Depends on how high your jack will reach, plus you need the wood to protect the sump plate fins.

The difficulty is that in taking off the rear end and gearbox you lose your stand assembly. You need the bike to be stable so you need to have the bike tied down at the front in some form, lock and chock the front end as you have no bike in gear to stop it rolling forward or sideways. An easy helper is that when you have done that place wood under the rear wheel so that its rested on the wood before you remove the rear shock. Then you have all the stresses off the fixings and in theory the whole lot slides back on the wheel rolling along the plank, one person guiding it and one person at the gear box end. I said in theory but it worked.

We took mine off all in one with the stand still on the gearbox. Drain the final drive first......if you want to leave it on its side.....

The job can be done single handed but a lot easier with two for getting the stuff off.

WD40 as much as you can too.

You can spend the money on the lift, but they don't work any better than a good floor jack and a stack of wood blocks. 

I used a borrowed one once; couldn't see how it was any better than my stack of 2x8 cut-offs.

One tip if you do use wood blocks, drill a hole where the oil drain plug will sit on the top block.

Just check This post on how to get the bike stable when you lift it.

I just put a sawhorse through the frame once the battery is taken out. VERY stable.

Judging by some of Rod's photos a rocking horse will be available.

An excellent idea too.

I use two saw horse's with a piece of 4" x 4" going through the frame, it gives me more access room around the bike. I also have a home made front wheel clamp frame, just for extra securlty. This is probably not needed but I have it so I use it. I also have a lift table but have not used it when removing the gearbox, too awkward,.
Regards Martin.

duck wrote:I just put a sawhorse through the frame once the battery is taken out. VERY stable.

For added security when using the sawhorse, I clamp the frame to the sawhorse.
This way, there is no way that you can tip the bike.


Very important!
Install a support under the swing arm to avoid ripping the rubber boot at the front of the swing arm when you remove the suspension.

Also:
You have to remove the clutch cable, but before doing anything, you have to tie the actuator arm to the gear box. If you fail to do that, most of the times, when you remove the exhaust, the actuator arm will swing back and destroy the rubber boot. This is a $50 mistake. Been there done that!



This is the $50 rubber boot at the back of the gear box.

Happy wrenching!

Have been doing some prep work in advance of the main repair and so...





Now I just need to make up a wood piece for under the sump and up she goes

More anon
Rod

Crazy Frog wrote:
Install a support under the swing arm to avoid ripping the rubber boot at the front of the swing arm when you remove the suspension.

Also:
You have to remove the clutch cable, but before doing anything, you have to tie the actuator arm to the gear box. If you fail to do that, most of the times, when you remove the exhaust, the actuator arm will swing back and destroy the rubber boot. This is a $50 mistake. Been there done that!
This is the $50 rubber boot at the back of the gear box.

Happy wrenching!

I've done many Ks and that boot at the front of the swing will pop off long before it tears.

You are correct however on being careful with the clutch pushrod boot. Those $50 things tear if you look at them crossways.

DeRodster wrote:Am hopeful it's the "grub screw", but we'll see

A testimony that hope takes unusual forms.

Anyway, here's what could amount to a useful video for you if its creator's voice doesn't lull you to sleep. Grub screw action starts around 3:00 but it's all pretty exciting.

Thanks Duck & Laitch, I'll bear all that in mind when i get to those points

And while I was at it I thought I'd have a go getting the foot heat shield off too ...
those bolts are going to love copper grease

Before you try to undo them, try to tighten them up. The idea is to crack any corrosion sealing. Expect at least one stud to come out with the nut, so it's a good idea to have a new set on hand. Six studs out of the eight came out on mine. Also a good idea to have an 8mm bottoming tap ready because if a stud does come out, the cylinder head thread will benefit from a cleanup before the new stud goes in. Glue it in with high-strength thread lock. Finally, have a 8mm die on hand too because any stud that behaves itself and stays in the block will need the stud thread cleaning up.

So far i loosened 5 of 8

More tomorrow

If an exhaust stud comes out then take two other nuts and set them up as lock nuts on the other end and then put it in a vise to get the stuck nut off. Then you can re-use the stud.

duck wrote:If an exhaust stud comes out then take two other nuts and set them up as lock nuts on the other end and then put it in a vise to get the stuck nut off. Then you can re-use the stud.

In my limited but at times challenging experience, if the nut is so corroded onto the stud that they both come out together, it is worth replacing the stud. The nuts (and copper header gaskets) all need replacing anyway, so there is already a £/Euro burden on you. The studs cost half the price of the nuts (about £1.08 each).

After my first experience of removing the exhaust manifold where 5 of the 8 studs sheared off and the other 3 came out with their nuts on, I now keep a complete set of studs, nuts and copper gaskets (about £33 + P&P for the lot) on hand (as per Dai's recommendation). Where I have replaced with new, and copper slicked up on assembly, the next time that I have had to drop the exhaust manifold (a fairly infrequent activity), I have been rewarded with minimal hassle. In my humble opinion, reusing a stud that has already become corroded to its nut is a bad step in the direction of having a real removal saga (and possible drilling out of sheared studs) next time around. Is £1.08x8 worth the piece of mind? I think so, but each to their own and we all have different budgets that limit our ambitions and aspirations!

Good luck with getting the remaining 3 out...

I've re-used studs with no issues.  And my bikes never seem to notice the difference.

And it's not the cost that's the issue, it's simply more convenient to re-use them.

re Studs,
 I'll get back to it later, but it seems I am taking the studs out.
As a matter of interest and if I can get the nut's off, when putting the studs back in
do I lock two nuts on and when she's in take em off or is there a tool for putting studs in

Rod

same technique putting them back in rod ...but with just a touch of loctight  on the end of the stud .....psst don't forget to run a tap through the head end ....and a tap  along the threads to clean them up before installing

hope that helps

charlie99 wrote:and a tap  along the threads to clean them up before installing

That would be a good trick Charlie!

Now what do I do...the last three are stuck fast .
12mm socket aint doin it ... not enough room to grip 'em
is there a special socket I could get to grip 'em I wonder

all ideas welcome

view from below

My guess is that you're using a 1/2" drive socket? IIRC a deep socket won't go up there - you'll need a shallow socket with a short extension on it to clear the exhaust pipes. The other possibility is dropping back to a 3/8" drive. As for grip... I absolutely hate 12-point drives. You need a 6-point socket or a 6-point side-drive socket like these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12mm-6pt-Socket-3-8-Dr-pckd-Draper-38-Square-Drive-6-Point-Metric-16537-

You can see where the sides meet they are undercut to prevent the socket from driving the nut via its edges. Each side also has a shallow convex curve on it to grip the sides of the nuts. I think the claim is something like 60% more torque available from this type of socket.

The last suggestion is to use a hot air gun and leave it running until that area of the cylinder head is good and hot.

A better idea (but way too late for you; however it's worth mentioning for anyone else) is to spend a week or so dumping penetrating oil on the studs, then on the day you want to do the job go ride the bike until the engine is stinking hot. You'll need to grow a pair of asbestos hands before trying to detach the exhaust system. In the absence of asbestos hands, a pair of welding gloves will do.

Very interesting Dai,
 and no indeed a half inch drive is no good, so I bought myself a brand new set of Draper 3/8'' socket set
worked fine on the other 5 ... but the rest are slipping.

However I didn't know about the 6pt / 12pt socket differ, just never thought about it and I don't know which my new set is ... but I'll check,
  and if I need one I'll pop along to my local outlet and see what they have

As to heating , that's still a possibility , and of course I have been dousing them with penetrating oil for the last few days.

on the horizon, my local Land Rover repair expert is going to come over tomorrow evening with his magic set and we'll see then,
 unless I have success in the meantime

More anon
Rod

Those nuts look very rusted It may be easier to just use a nut splitter if a hex socket wont move them.

RicK G wrote:Those nuts look very rusted It may be easier to just use a nut splitter if a hex socket wont move them.

Do you have one that will get in there?  Where did you get it.  I need one like that.

This is what I bought to help remove those sort of pesky rusted on nuts.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IRWIN-5-Piece-BASE-Damaged-Bolt-Grip-Nut-Remover-Set-10-16mm-Case-10504634-/390351175947?epid=4003304728&hash=item5ae2be410b:g:G-AAAOSwo8hTnxRJ

It effectively cuts into the nut and grips it tight as you unscrew - great for rounded off nuts and usually brings the stud out with it. Worth doing the penetrating oil soak while waiting for the postman though as you may find that the stud shears if it is a real bugger. You can get something similar for stud removal (as long as there is enough stud sticking out).

Good luck

And so the Land Rover expert arrived with his toolkit and successfully, in a few minutes, removed the last three studs.
So now it's just a case of putting 8 studs and nuts on the wanted parts list

The saga continues over the weekend and hopefully that's the only holdup I'll encounter

More anon ;-)

Get a set of these. Ive only needed mine once or twice, but they are mega handy to have.

Oh to be sure I will Floyd
Only found they existed during the week. 
I have a set ordered from my local motor factor

So far today exhaust & center stand are off ...

Just organising wood block for under engine
Then up she goes ;-)

The saga continues

A useful addition to the toolbox ;-)

You do realise that now you've bought them just-in-case, you'll never need to use them?

Dai wrote:You do realise that now you've bought them just-in-case, you'll never need to use them?

Isn't that why we buy spare parts and special tools?

Point-Seven-five wrote:

Dai wrote:You do realise that now you've bought them just-in-case, you'll never need to use them?

Isn't that why we buy spare parts and special tools?

Never using them makes them last longer...as long as you don't lend them to someone....

Yes, indeedy, I haven't opened the pack....yet
Hopefully I won't have to for a while

on to another matter now

Para-Lever Rear Drive Removal

Any advice would be welcome
I think I am going to need a larger Allan key as the left side socket looks real BIG
and I'm not at all sure if there is loctite on the treads, and I guess I wont know until I loosen, or try loosen, them
I did see a piece about heating the bolts with a gas gun
so that's somefin else I better get !!!

That's a 12mm key and can be a bit ornery, heat will help if it has loctite on it. Take care to catch all the rollers as they jump out and make a run for the dark recesses of the cave. They shouldn't fall out but they do and genuine is the only place to get them if needed. You can get bronze bushes to replace them from Rubber Chicken Racing in USA

Thanks Rick
I'll try catch any escapees

Now off to fetch a 12mm key

2 or 3 feet of pipe as a cheater bar also works quite well on loosening that 12mm pivot.

I've no doubt it will help Duck ;-)



I'll know soon enough if it does

DeRodster wrote:I've no doubt it will help Duck ;-)



I'll know soon enough if it does

 Hi Rod

I have this and the large socket if you want to borrow them, could maybe drop them to you over the weekend or something.

Thanks Simon, very kind of you to offer.
I have all the bits I need for now, but if I run into a problem I'll let you know

On the otherhand if you are passing this way while out for a spin always feel free to drop in for a cuppa ;-)

adios
Rod

Born Again Eccentric wrote:

Point-Seven-five wrote:

Dai wrote:You do realise that now you've bought them just-in-case, you'll never need to use them?

Isn't that why we buy spare parts and special tools?

Never using them makes them last longer...as long as you don't lend them to someone....

Loaning tools is the next best thing to throwing them away.  I had a neighbor who borrowed tools and then promptly lost them.  There were a bunch of tools that I never got back for nearly 15 years until I found them for sale when he retired and had a garage sale before moving to Arizona.

Yep, that worked ;-)