Yep, that worked ;-)

Thar she blows skipper

And so, today I got the battery tray out



and am trying to identify that electronic regulator type unit that was attached  to the backside of the battery tray, left of starter motor ??

So now I'm looking at the swing arm removal...so it's off to the shop for an H8 allen removal key...for frame bolts




and I need to recap on that clutch lever issue mentioned in an earlier post



more anon ;-)

It is the ignition amplifier which is the final stage transistors for the power pulse to the coils.
When time comes to put it back get some heat sink paste from your local electronics store, remove the amplifier from the tray and clean any old crud off the back and replace using the new heat sink paste. Also make sure the earth wire from the tray to one of the starter bolts is in place (brown).

Thanks for that Rick G

And yes there's a lot of crap on the back of the reg unit
Probably just old heat sink compound with years of dust added
I have a tube of hs compound to put on later

And i think i saw 3 wires attached to that starter motor bolt, not to mention the ones attached to the ABS units
I'll be taking re-assembly very carefully .... so many small bits and pieces, though I've no doubt it will all come together. Just dont want to miss something

I think I'll replace clutch plate while I'm at it. Seeing as how ive gone this far be a pity not to. Just need to check part nr

Am hoping that left side swing arm bolt / nut combo comes undone easy ... i might have to use heat agin ;-)

Slán for now...

The swing arm pivot bolt won't be an issue as long as you loosen the locknut first.  The one on the other side can be sticky though.  Just work around it with a screwdriver to get it out if/when it is stuck.

The six bolts holding the transmission to the bellhousing: Be sure to clean all of the road grime out of the Allen bolt heads on the bottom ones so you can get the Allen wrench well-seated before loosening them.

Thanks for the tip Duck
Will do

Lock nut wasn't a problem, but as you say the right side is gonna need a little levering !!!


More later
R

With that screw the thread protrudes through the other side and collects a heap of grit in the thread. Get in there with a tooth brush and degreaser and clean the thread. Spraying some carb cleaner can do the trick but if there is a build up of crud then the brush is the way to go. Oh yeah make sure you get it nice and clean before you put it back in her toothbrush rack.

and of sourse what split.... the rubber boot on the clutch mechanism

Any way have the swing arm off, though I possibly didn't need to remove it I now realise





and of course the dreaded rubber boot. ... expensive piece of rubber that !!!


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[url=https://servimg.com/view/18251019/142]mind you it's amazing where spiders set up home... must be quite sheltered back there !!![/url]
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[url=https://servimg.com/view/18251019/142][url=https://servimg.com/view/18251019/143]So now , I am just waiting for the lonnnng bolt's so I can slide gearbox back and remove.... then the fun begins for sure[/url][/url]
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[url=https://servimg.com/view/18251019/142][url=https://servimg.com/view/18251019/143]adios for now[/url][/url]
[url=https://servimg.com/view/18251019/142][url=https://servimg.com/view/18251019/143]Rod[/url][/url]

Rod

For what it's worth I had all new boots and seals and clips on my shelf, as in swing arm/gearbox boot and clips, clutch pushrod boot and clips, gearbox input and output seals, seal for final drive, boots were all beyond re using when checked up close. I also put in clutch pivot arm bearings.

Only two parts left over were a clutch release bearing and clutch pushrod seal.

I've never replaced the clutch arm pivot bearings but I always do pull the pivot rod and regrease it.

CAUTION: Be careful removing the clip(s) from the end of the clutch pivot rod.  It's one of those small parts that likes to fly across the garage and disappear forever. (It gets sucked into the same hyperspatial confluence that steals socks from your clothes dryer and transports them to another dimension.)

That rod can be sticky to get out.  I've found that using a nail set tapped with a hammer is handy for getting it to budge.

duck wrote:I've never replaced the clutch arm pivot bearings but I always do pull the pivot rod and regrease it.

CAUTION: Be careful removing the clip(s) from the end of the clutch pivot rod.  It's one of those small parts that likes to fly across the garage and disappear forever. (It gets sucked into the same hyperspatial confluence that steals socks from your clothes dryer and transports them to another dimension.)

That rod can be sticky to get out.  I've found that using a nail set tapped with a hammer is handy for getting it to budge.

Ha you are so right and I must have had your post in my mind at the weekend when I picked up a box full of assorted sizes of C clips.....thinking of the one that was missing off the seat on the RT.......[compare that that to the ones on the clutch pivot arm......]

Hi

Sorry for the late reply.
I would say it's definitely the grub screw.
Please try and avoid moving the lever. There is the possibility you will widen the hole which holds the grub screw.
My experience tightening the grub screw; I was able to repair the gearbox without removing any of the components.
It is possible to remove the grub screw without removing any of the gearbox components.
I used cotton buds to clean the threads and apply thread lock compound.
The initial tightening of the grub screw requires time and patience. I used an Allen key which was inserted into the grub screw at what seemed like an impossible angle.
It took a few goes for the grub screw to thread into the hole but was worth the frustration and time, considering I did not have to remove any of the gearbox components.
Just my experience tightening the grub screw.

Good luck

Greetings All,
 It's been a long winter and not much done to K since last Oct, but I finally got back to it a few days ago, and while progress is slow I'm getting there.

So Gearbox is out and cover is off



It was the dreaded "grub screw" that had come adrift, I'm nearly inclined to say "thankfully", but I guess any of you who've been there will understand my reluctance...it's a long job to get to that point for sure.



So now I guess it's just a matter of locking it back in and getting the cover back on

Then it's onto the clutch, and looking back over the previous post's (  and note to self " Don't forget to thank Crazy Frog for having the foresight and setting up this forum "' , it is clear I have a few options re replacing all of part. My gut feeling is as I'm in this far  I may as well go the whole hog, as for sure I don't want to have to do all this anytime again soon

Adios for now
Rod

Rod

Its looking good.....

Will you be mobile for 24th?

We are having a meet up that involves lunch at Hook Head lighthouse....

My K1100LT is looking to meet up with a your K1100LT

Olaf

While you are there I would fit a grease nipple to the clutch arm. It will allow you to push out any crap that tends to get in there.
Regards Martin.

Hi Lad's

She's a good looker Olaf, and no doubt they'll meet soon enough.
I doubt I'll be ready by the 24th though

and I'll keep that in mind MartinW

more anon
Rod

Olaf and anyone reading,

 I am going to change the clutch disk, but wonder should I also change the pressure plate and any other parts of it

Rod

I only changed the friction plate but did rear main seal and flywheel O ring. If you have never done them I would do it while in there.

I did the grub screw on my RT when I first got the bike.  Took a full day start to finish, about 7 hours with a bit of help from my son.  Did clutch and shaft splines and copper anti-seize on all the fasteners along with rear brake pads.

Only advice is to wash the screw thoroughly as well as where it is threaded in with brake cleaner then use blue LocTite.  You will also need a part grabber to get the screw out when you drop it into the transmission, which you will do at least twice.  Put the LocTite In the hole, not on the screw so you can wash the oil off with brake cleaner after you fish it out of the transmission.

Job done
All came to a smooth conclusion and I just wrapped up a few bits n bobs earlier

Took her out for a short spin this evening.
Quite a difference in gear selection compared to before...and
no leaks and nothing fell off so I guess I'm good to go.

Safe riding yeall

DeRodster wrote:Job done
All came to a smooth conclusion and I just wrapped up a few bits n bobs earlier

Took her out for a short spin this evening.
Quite a difference in gear selection compared to before...and
no leaks and nothing fell off so I guess I'm good to go.

Safe riding yeall

Glad to hear you're back on the road.

(Your avatar is missing the wasted spark at the bottom of the cycle.)

dammit, I thought there was a miss ;-)

lol 


great work ..at last rod
ride well mate