92KK 84WW Olaf
Life time member
Number of posts : 7955
My friend here who is also ex BMW said the same thing about replacing as a service item but he was referring to the pivot bearings on the later self destructing types rather than the K mono lever or Paralever ones. However just changing the big bearing is not so difficult as one might believe if you are doing them all the time. My mate can set a bolt to a required torque setting and then check it with a torque wrench to find its exact, just like a musician of experience can produce a perfect C. Doing that big bearing seems to be a wise move and after what I saw I think I would pull it at a defined mileage as it doesn't take much to do it.
Rather strangely my K had a strange incident August last year which was about 8k miles before the bearing went. The final drive oil started pissing out of it and it ran hot. So I changed the oil, did it again for a few days, changed the oil a second time and the problem disappeared and it went back to running at normal temperatures. No idea what happened or why. However I did keep an eye on it and then started to feel a barely perceptible change in the drive.
The early 16 tooth RS drive is like hens teeth and if you have one of those worth swapping the bearing if the drive is good.
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1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red 578 bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 689 58,645 now 106,950 miles Deceased.
1983 K100RS 0011157 Fricka 606 Alaska Blue 29,495 miles Damn K Pox Its a Bat outta Hell Now 58,200 miles.
1996 K1100LT 0233004 Lohengrin Mystic Red 38,000 miles currently 51,800 miles.
1983 K100RS 0004449 Odette R100 colours 58,000 miles. Sprint fairing now 63,390 miles
Past:
1968 Yamaha 80 YG1
1971 Yamaha 125 YAS-1
1968 Honda 125 SS
1970 Honda CD 175
1973 Honda CB500-4
Honda CX 500