I don't why but I'm a sucker for playing around with K 

got a basket  one on the work bench that was a non runner

The fuel tank is full of black goo looks like an eels nest and is slimy as one  

fuel sender is rusted, pump rubber things is gone,pump basket filter thingy broken 

Have been reading about the  different  pump on the forum commodore  ect 

Question how are these held in place ???

do they work on the same pressure ???

what best for cleaning the black goo ??? 

have read on other site  to use a pool cleaning acid but scared with the Aluminium tank ?? 

where is the best place to buy in tank fuel line in Australia ???

Will the USA / UK  fuel lines  handle  our crappy chemical laced Australian petrol ?

The black rubber thingy is not gone but it is now the black gooey stuff in the tank.
I have had success with Carb and throttle body cleaner. Still it's a lot of scrubbing.
A VL Commodore pump is the go 6 or V8.
Fuel lines, everybody has that crappy fuel, get the stuff that is suitable for immersion in fuel and fuel injection. Someone will chime in with a part number for it I cant remember it.

Thanks  Rick

How do you install the VL Commodore pump  ?

dose it fit straight in to the  rubber thingy  ??

dose it need the  white plastic strainer  ???

look for 30r9 or 30r10 fuel line for inside the tank

the lower grade 30r8  as a minimum for the external lines ...dont forget to leave them a couple of inches longer than necessary ...for lifting the tank to access water filler etc without removing the fuel lines every time

good luck

Ebay for submersible fuel line you can get it locally, although last time I got mine from Gawler S.A. I buy a metre at a time does three changes.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5-16-8mmx300mm-Submersible-in-tank-fuel-injection-hose-line-SAEJ30R10-Gates-/172386834949?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GATES-5-16-SUBMERSIBLE-IN-TANK-FUEL-INJECTION-LINE-HOSE-SAE30R10-SPECS-300mm-/161054405966?
Regards Martin.

Matthew-Brisbane wrote:Thanks  Rick

How do you install the VL Commodore pump  ?

dose it fit straight in to the  rubber thingy  ??

dose it need the  white plastic strainer  ???

They go straight into the new rubber thingy (no Goo) 52mm, have the usual car type strainer (usually comes in the box)and I found that if you double it over and put a black zip tie loosely around it, it goes into the tank aperture more easily and the zip tie wont melt.
Also the terminals need to be changed to the spade type, make sure to get the pos and neg right.

At the moment I'm running a Chinese copy of the OEM ($36.00 shipped). A lot of people will view this as a bad move, however I decided to do a bit of research pick one, and give it a try. I went with a supplier that also manufactures them as well as other parts. There are heaps of different copies out there, some probably good some terrible.  I've been told it will fail right out of the box. Against the OEM one it is a lot quieter and has a higher rate of flow. I've only got 300 K's on it but I'm pretty confident at this stage, but I carry my still good OEM in the tail. I will occasionally post it's status and will post if it fails. 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/for-BMW-K-Ducati-K75-K100-K1100-K1-1983-1997-BOSCH-16121461576-16121460452-0580-463-999/32784411992.html?

http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,10054.msg85798.html#msg85798

And a bit from the manufacturer.
Beijing Global Auto Parts is one of the leading trade companies in mainland China and a member of the Chinese Commercial Vehicle Parts Market Federation, specializing in commercial vehicle and diesel engine parts. We provide export services to many of our clients worldwide including the Middle East, Europe, Africa, and Southeast Asia. Meanwhile, we have established long-term relationships with over 20 leading diesel engine parts manufacturer in mainland China with effective quality insurance system, like Cummins, Caterpillar, Deutz, Perkins, Komatsu, Isuzu, Steyr and Kamaz.
 Our products include nozzles, elements, delivery valves, injectors, pistons, piston rings, cylinder blocks, cylinder heads, crankshafts, camshafts, turbochargers, fuel injection pumps and feed pumps. At the same time, we have good relationship with automotive companies in mainland China and our supplier, including FAW, DFM, CNHTC (Steyr, Howo), Foton (Auman), Shanxi (SX, Steyr), Yuchai, Weichai and DCEC (Cummins). With their assistance, we can provide pure China-made automotive parts and components.

OEM pump 180 ml over 5 sec equals 2.16 litres per min.
New pump  325 ml over 5 sec equals 3.9   litres per min.
Regards Martin.

I have had a few old pumps that were working when removed fail a year or so later because the seal around the crimping at the top crumbles and when connected fuel goes everywhere except the outlet then the pump goes in the bin.

I flushed the OEM pump and sprayed Inox through it before sealing in a zippy bag. If the Chinese one goes to 5000K's I might  get another one to put into stock. I'm already running a $13.33 Chinese rear master cylinder which is still going well. 
Regards Martin.

Hello Guys

how clean do i need to get the tank  ? I have read before that it needs to be gleaming 

There are a couple of black marks where the old pipes have touched the side of the tanks 

and after  scrubbing and soaking cant get these to budge   

after  forking out for replacement parts I don't want them trashed 

will try an post a pic tomorrow

perhaps try some solvent to clean the goo off ?

acetone perhaps ?

others have had good success  , cant remember the name of the product though

I have used a Aluminium cleaner ( some type of low concentrated acid)  but a couple of bit  wont move 

another quick question  can you separate the  Throttle and Front Brake master cylinder perch with out unplugging the wiring ??

They look to be pretty well sealed together with muck

yes Mathew
the master cylinder and reservoir unbolts from the perch proper by 2x  4mm allen head screws  that hold the cylinder assembly to the perch
the bolts are on the inner side of the perch , one should have an electrical terminal under the bolt head

then by lifting the throttle mechanism cover ,( 1 x screw ) the throttle cam assembly and throttle grip can also be removed

actually did this job just last weekend , I cleaned it all up and applied some Teflon based product to the grip and flushed out the throttle cable with degreaser , then injected some Teflon product down the cable

the rollback of the throttle is now quite snappy ..and light to use

should have a couple of pics ,,, that I might be able to upload

another  pic 

Hello Charlie99

I have removed the 2 fixing bolts and the Banjo at the bottom
+ I have removed the brake light switch wire 

but  not sure how to separate they are badly corroded as you can see in the photo 

I do want to keep the switch block and throttle which both still seem to be in good condition

the master cylinder mooves towards the steering centre , including the reservoir along the handle bar line , the piston and rod from the brake lever have to clear along that same line out of the perch

the switch block is removed by a single screw (3mm thread and made of cheese ) at the bottom of the switch block under side from the riders view
then you will have the raw perch on the bars

when reassembling use new screws and copper slip on all

if you cant get it off give me a call

Matthew-Brisbane wrote:Hello Guys

how clean do i need to get the tank  ? I have read before that it needs to be gleaming 

There are a couple of black marks where the old pipes have touched the side of the tanks 

and after  scrubbing and soaking cant get these to budge   

after  forking out for replacement parts I don't want them trashed 

will try an post a pic tomorrow

Try some sodium percarbonate which is a laundry soaker in powder form. I've found the Aldi DiSan (purple) is the best. Its a higher concentration. About 250g in half a bucket of water. Slosh it around and leave overnight. Repeat if necessary. Best to remove the fuel level sender. If you use the normal concentration powder, double the dose.

Looking at your master cylinder I can see there is a bit of what looks like oxidation on the painted surface. This is probably caused by brake fluid. I'd be replacing the O-ring on the bottom of the reservoir.

Hello All

Thanks for the help for the tank cleaning 
I end up using an aluminium dingy cleaner wash from a boat shop around the corner came up really well

For the front master cylinder I end up having to use a piece of pine and rubber hammer to tap apart
looking very sorry and most likely be replace 

Now for my next part of the project brakes and brake lines 

Question to the wise 

Any tips on how do you split the Brembo calipers as I want to change out the internal O ring+ the piston seals    ?   
I done brakes piston and seal before but did not need to split the calipers

Good work Matthew, what was the name of that stuff we often get members asking.

No worries 

Once i get enough good boy points up to to be allowed back out to the shed I grab a photo

Ah yes Chemtech Blitz I have used it for cleaning bullbars and alloy fuel tanks on trucks.  Good stuff