HEllo. I have a K100 85' And its quite nude. its starts with original speedometer but not without. It sounds like the fuel pump won't start without the meter. I already have a new digital meter purchased but not installed because fever for riding is big and its going to get cold next month even icy in here.

Any ideas? K100 is new for me and newest bike ever...

Thank you already 

If it starts with the original speedometer then the K is working.

To use a different one you must make some small wiring changes so that your fuel pump will get signal and so your alternator will charge the battery, but you know it works so that's good. I don't have the answer here but there are quite a few who have installed different speedometer or head units. You will need to post up exactly what one you are trying to use and someone will have an answer.

If the cold worries you then you can move to Ireland...we ride all year.

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:If it starts with the original speedometer then the K is working.

To use a different one you must make some small wiring changes so that your fuel pump will get signal and so your alternator will charge the battery, but you know it works so that's good. I don't have the answer here but there are quite a few who have installed different speedometer or head units. You will need to post up exactly what one you are trying to use and someone will have an answer.

If the cold worries you then you can move to Ireland...we ride all year.

Ok. so its about the pump and alternator. thanks. we can also ride whole year... with snowmobiles, because those you can ride also in open water...

When building my Big Block, and not using the OEM instruments, the only thing needing to be done when starting was to pull in the clutch lever regardless of whether I'm in neutral or not - be sure you've jumped or grounded out the sidestand safety switch. I am using late '93 on Motronic 2.2 & wiring loom, so there might be a difference to an earlier version.

One notable worth mentioning when using the OEM instrument cluster is that the fuel pump does not give out a plaintive cry when the key's switched on, just starts up silently, but when not using instruments it does sing as it pressurises for a moment, reminding me it's there.

Two Wheels Better wrote:One notable worth mentioning when using the OEM instrument cluster is that the fuel pump does not give out a plaintive cry when the key's switched on, just starts up silently, but when not using instruments it does sing as it pressurises for a moment, reminding me it's there.

All of my 4V Ks, all with OEM clusters, make lots of noise when they pre-pressurize when the key is turned on.
.

Two Wheels Better wrote:When building my Big Block, and not using the OEM instruments, the only thing needing to be done when starting was to pull in the clutch lever regardless of whether I'm in neutral or not - be sure you've jumped or grounded out the sidestand safety switch. I am using late '93 on Motronic 2.2 & wiring loom, so there might be a difference to an earlier version.

One notable worth mentioning when using the OEM instrument cluster is that the fuel pump does not give out a plaintive cry when the key's switched on, just starts up silently, but when not using instruments it does sing as it pressurises for a moment, reminding me it's there.

Yep... it was on sidestand when started... i try it again... 

Laapottij wrote:

Two Wheels Better wrote:When building my Big Block, and not using the OEM instruments, the only thing needing to be done when starting was to pull in the clutch lever regardless of whether I'm in neutral or not - be sure you've jumped or grounded out the sidestand safety switch. I am using late '93 on Motronic 2.2 & wiring loom, so there might be a difference to an earlier version.

One notable worth mentioning when using the OEM instrument cluster is that the fuel pump does not give out a plaintive cry when the key's switched on, just starts up silently, but when not using instruments it does sing as it pressurises for a moment, reminding me it's there.

Yep... it was on sidestand when started... i try it again... 

Not starting without the side stand? should it start without speedometer? does anybody know where can i find a wiring diagram for the plugs which come to the "oem" meter? (green and grey)

Hello!

Have a look here, there are electric plans as PDF, maybe that helps.
Can't find them in the moment. Should be under support.
http://maru-labs.com/en/portfolio/bep3-0-2/

A other good man from the forum here build something equal, can't find it, but somebody else will :-)

Cheers

Chocolate wrote:Hello!

Have a look here, there are electric plans as PDF, maybe that helps.
Can't find them in the moment. Should be under support.
http://maru-labs.com/en/portfolio/bep3-0-2/

A other good man from the forum here build something equal, can't find it, but somebody else will :-)

Cheers

Not working. and my german is shit...

Schematic for Early (<'85) K100 basic

Schematic for Early (<'85) K100 RS and RT models

There are no wires to the OEM cluster connector being Green with a Grey tracer.  That colour combination is only on the horn.  However, if you meant one Green wire and another wire coloured Grey, there is a Green/Black on Pin 6 which is switched 12V and a Grey/Blue wire on Pin 24 which is switched 12V for the instrument cluster lights.

I build circuits to replace functions such as Start Enable and Neutral that can help you.

By the way there isn't a side stand switch on early K100.

They had a self retracting side stand that flew up if you took the weight off it...

First thing I got rid of as in disabled the self retracting function.

robmack wrote:Schematic for Early (<'85) K100 basic

Schematic for Early (<'85) K100 RS and RT models

There are no wires to the OEM cluster connector being Green with a Grey tracer.  That colour combination is only on the horn.  However, if you meant one Green wire and another wire coloured Grey, there is a Green/Black on Pin 6 which is switched 12V and a Grey/Blue wire on Pin 24 which is switched 12V for the instrument cluster lights.

I build circuits to replace functions such as Start Enable and Neutral that can help you.

 I meant this plug:

Okey... Now its running but not charging... somebody talked about signal? the one which says Lataus ( charging in Finnish) the alternator should be okey. Last owner had tested it.

If I'm not mistaken you need a lamp/LED/resistor between the blue wire and the green/black wire in order for the alternator to work properly.

duck wrote:If I'm not mistaken you need a lamp/LED/resistor between the blue wire and the green/black wire in order for the alternator to work properly.

That's the solution to not having the original clocks where the charging light does this.