is a white /grey film normal after an oil /filter change with full synthetic? I can't see the level thru the sight glass and noticed it on the inside of the filler cap.  Some gasoline and engine cleaner was around the base of the fuel injectors before hand. . .. I also saw a few beads of coolant when I first removed the oil filter cover, is this acceptable ?

No not at all acceptable. Means you probably have a failing seal in the water pump. Best to do it soon or face a big gloop os Mayonnaise in the sump

Ok , that sucks , one thing after the other. Thanks Rick .

What should I expect if I pull the water pump off, I see a few seals and rotor/ impeller I might have to buy along with the "bmw" tool to install it! Does the whole pump have to be taken apart to find this potential leaky seal?

Thanks forgot about that site .

Can I ask what colour the old oil was you drained it from the engine?

Al

The old oil was dark brown I guess. I opened the drain plug since and the little bit of oil that drained out appeared to look normal , at least at the lowest point. I could see the level in the sight glass after the change but after the first ride I couldn't . Since I now have to drain the oil in order to rebuild the water pump  I'll get a better look at the rest of the oil.

The oil level can increase on a K for a few reasons:

1: oil/water pump allowing coolant into the oil. Generally you won't notice changes in temperature other than coolant running a bit lower and some mayonnaise.
2: head gasket failure also allowing coolant into the oil but usually also accompanied by some overheating issues and overflowing at the coolant expansion bottle.
3: fuel injector failure allowing petrol into the oil, you will smell it from the oil and notice other running issues. This needs to be watched because if you get a cylinder full of petrol you get hydraulic lock and serious damage.

On the oil pump if it has never been done and it's an early K you will need to replace the impeller and the shaft. There was a nut on the old type and it WILL go wrong on you. Just be careful and patient when you are doing it and keep an eye out after its done. Mine is done 3 years now and not had a problem but the first 2 days there was a small drip that I kept eye on and it stopped. The advice I got when it happened was monitor it and see what happens.

Update , I have drained the oil and I saw a very small amount of discoloration mainly dark brown ( darker than I thought for new oil) but some small streaks of white/grey-like a latte( not sure if this is the mayonnaise that was referred to ?). Is this oil okay to use again ,assuming it is the mayonnaise mentioned?

However when I removed the filter cover there was more coolant than the first time. I discarded this oil . Took the water pump off and the nut on the impeller fell off as soon as I turned it >yes major seal failure in pump . Just curious if it would be possible to cut the remaining nub of the threaded end of the shaft off and drill /thread a hole for the screw of new impeller? Since it isn't mentioned I'm guessing not! So basically a new shaft and seals etc is roughly half the cost of a new pump unit, still seems the way to go versus a new pump, am I wrong ?

As the expression goes, got it in one regarding the oil pump. I wouldn't reuse any contaminated oil.

wow, wish I would've asked earlier when I first noticed the coolant contamination as now it's new oil on top of the old new oil  . I did find a new pump for about $130 USD cheaper than dealer but I guess I'll prob just order parts and rebuild it.

on the coolant side of the pump is it normal to have irregular little black lines in the fluted area, they are slightly raised? are they considered cracks ? will they pose a problem in the future? On the rebuild water pump site at ibmw it looks like they are present on that pump as well but not mentioned

ok don't see them in the rebuild picture after all , maybe the old paint making hairline cracks visible? if that's the case seems like a new pump is justified?

Put some pictures up but if there are cracks it will be a first.

the coolant side does have these surface cracks and not smooth like the other side , maybe something with how it's machined or the properties of aluminum? just don't want to rebuild the pump and then have it crack and leak later.

The red arrows show a raised line that comes about when the casting is cooling and is nothing to be concerned about.
The blue arrow is that a scratch, I think it is but is also possible a crack
The area I outlined in Blue is where the impeller has rubbed the body. All in all it's worth about 2 lumps of goat shit.
Get a new or good used but many of the used ones will need a new main shaft due to rust and they need to be in bits before you can tell. A new shaft is around $180 AU or more but is worth while getting.

yeah your blue arrow points to a scratch not a crack. so the area where the impeller has rubbed the body is that of concern or not, would guess not? not sure what you were referring to with your goat shit statement  ? is this one not worthy to be rebuilt, that's what it sounded like ?

The amount of material missing where the impeller has been rubbing is not of great concern but why it happened is of concern because it is on one section only and that means the bearing surface where the shaft goes through from the oil pump is worn and cant be fixed so it will keep destroying seals and that is where the goat shit comes into the equation. Depending where you buy parts will decide if new or used is the way forward.

ok  , (sure would be nice if the bikes value went up with the money put into it) thanks for all the advice Rick and everybody else!

Mine was cactus like that in 2014, but once all the bits were replaced its been trouble free since. Shaft, impeller, seal etc  you cant really avoid doing but be careful putting it back together.

DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES use the impeller to drive the new seal in. You WILL destroy the seal. Use a socket that's the right size to drive the seal by the edges.

Press the ceramic coolant pump seal in, do NOT use a hammer or you will most likely crack it then throw it out using some choice words

Thow critical is it that all of the cylinder walls surface be smooth ? The red area closest to impeller is smooth , but the next level down (black) is not so smooth and the lowest level is smooth except for the lip/shoulder transition area from black to blue.the lowest area where the shaft hole is smooth as well. As all the seals were garbage and not in one pieceby the time  I got them out and I don't have new seals right in front of me I'm not sure what gets seated where and if that rough area poses a problem?

Does anyone know the differences for the 86k100rs water pump versus the other models? I've been told I need the spacer bushing as shown in the parts fiche and that the other parts needed to rebuild it might not work, I haven't yet heard the reasons why? I've been assuming the oil seal and water seal , new impeller for new shaft as seen in the parts fiche for my bike would be correct.

What I see there is usable but check that the hole where the shaft runs is not worn oval. Because the big gear is only supported on one side that tends to happen. You will need to replace the shaft so rust on the old one is not of concern.
The impeller, you can use a pressed steel one along with the aluminium spacer or the cast iron one and machine 3mm from the inner side of the boss. 
The difference in oil pumps came in later around 1991 when they started using smaller teeth on the gears, these newer pumps can be used but the parts are not interchangeable with the earlier pumps like yours.

ok will inspect for oval shaped hole , ha ha. so a new pump won't have the same size gears but will work ? I checked on a new pump today but they ( not the dealer )did not one have listed for the rs but had one listed for k100s is this the same as rs ? Sorry for all the questions ! Bmw # 11 51 7 676 371 , actually it is same part number  as the one I called about, just double checked , thanks