Thank you for the add. I'm fairly new rider but really into older bikes. Started with Yamaha XJ650 1983 and quickly realized I need more power and hate carburetors. Currently I own two URAL/Dnepr M72 and k750 with sidecars. Worked at the BMW dealer for 3 years and fell in love with BMW machinery. k100 has been a dream for quite some time now and finally I would like to make that final step towards owning one. As they are as rare as "Bigfoot", it all comes down to finding something in my area before the end of the winter. As per now I would like to do my diligence and read through the forum to know what to look for.

Thanks again! 

Welcome Max,

Dreaming of a K100 is a good dream to have - having a K100 is even better. Good luck with your search, while they may be rare as Bigfoot around your way, at least you are attached to that southerly neighbour of yours, which could open up a whole range of additional possibilities for finding the right bike and riding her home. Crazy Frog may be able to advise you on getting the bike over the border but maybe best do it before Mr Trump finishes building his walls!

Plenty of tips and suggestions on the portal page, but if you want specific opinion - then just ask and some helpful soul will point you in the right direction.

Enjoy.

Welcome from just south of the border.  What model K100 are you looking for?  Do you plan on making a cafe racer out of it?  If so, an RT or LT would be the best starting point.  If you want a nice all around machine the RS is considered to be the best.

You have picked a tough time to be shopping for a bike.  There were several K100's on Craigs List in the GTA last year, but since the first of the year a lot of motorcycle listing have been closed down. 

They are out there.  Good luck and enjoy the hunt.

mnafasto wrote:Thank you for the add. I'm fairly new rider but really into older bikes. Started with Yamaha XJ650 1983 and quickly realized I need more power and hate carburetors. Currently I own two URAL/Dnepr M72 and k750 with sidecars. Worked at the BMW dealer for 3 years and fell in love with BMW machinery. k100 has been a dream for quite some time now and finally I would like to make that final step towards owning one. As they are as rare as "Bigfoot", it all comes down to finding something in my area before the end of the winter. As per now I would like to do my diligence and read through the forum to know what to look for.

Thanks again! 

Boy, I with they were as rare as Bigfoot...  In the last 4 months I've picked up an '85 RT, '90 LT and '92 K75S - in addition to the '85 RT I've had for a decade or so.  And I wasn't even trying to find them!

Seriously, if you're interested maybe we can work out something on the RT I picked up recently.  It's kind of redundant for me.  I'm in Rochester NY so not far from Toronto...

Steve

WelKome!

Welcome mnafasto.

I know a k100rs in showroom condition for sale in Montreal. In fact this is a project bike that my brother bought, stripped it in pieces and rebuilt it from the ground up. When he bought the bike, it was not running due to a Hall sensors problem.
The reason that he bought the bike was to have fun during the winter (It lasted almost 2 years to rebuild it). Now, he doesn't have any use for it as he already has a K100rt in the same condition.
Some of the parts that were repaired/upgraded:
battery
tires
fork bearings
clutch
front and rear master cylinder kit + fluid container
calipers kit
break braided stainless hoses
stainless steel fastener kit
alternator bearings
output shaft (for a 12 rivets) + bearings
Oils seals
Corbin seat
K1100 center and side stand
Every hoses and rubber parts
windshield
... and more
You can see the process of the rebuild by clicking here
I'll send you a PM with his contact.

CF

Point-Seven-five wrote:Welcome from just south of the border.  What model K100 are you looking for?  Do you plan on making a cafe racer out of it?  If so, an RT or LT would be the best starting point.  If you want a nice all around machine the RS is considered to be the best.

You have picked a tough time to be shopping for a bike.  There were several K100's on Craigs List in the GTA last year, but since the first of the year a lot of motorcycle listing have been closed down. 

They are out there.  Good luck and enjoy the hunt.

Thanks! In my perfect configuration it would probably be RS 16 Valve. I do like the look of a café racer or tracker, but to be hones I like unmolested bikes with OEM equipment. I would prefer  to just ride something for the first year and concentrate on maintenance first. then next year would start thinking about some upgrades.

swamp2 wrote:

mnafasto wrote:Thank you for the add. I'm fairly new rider but really into older bikes. Started with Yamaha XJ650 1983 and quickly realized I need more power and hate carburetors. Currently I own two URAL/Dnepr M72 and k750 with sidecars. Worked at the BMW dealer for 3 years and fell in love with BMW machinery. k100 has been a dream for quite some time now and finally I would like to make that final step towards owning one. As they are as rare as "Bigfoot", it all comes down to finding something in my area before the end of the winter. As per now I would like to do my diligence and read through the forum to know what to look for.

Thanks again! 

Boy, I with they were as rare as Bigfoot...  In the last 4 months I've picked up an '85 RT, '90 LT and '92 K75S - in addition to the '85 RT I've had for a decade or so.  And I wasn't even trying to find them!

Seriously, if you're interested maybe we can work out something on the RT I picked up recently.  It's kind of redundant for me.  I'm in Rochester NY so not far from Toronto...

Steve

Please do send me what you have for sale. As it looks right now there is only one RS for sale in the area and the guy does not respond. my email is m.nafasto@gmail.com Thanks! Rochester is super close so that would work

K100RS16V is a good choice.  I have one and it is my favorite all around bike.  It is comfortable for long hauls and is still fun in the twisties.  It will get you arrested anywhere you ride if you want to go that fast.  It's a big solid bike that feels light as soon as you get it moving. 

The 16v K100's are kind of rare, but the K1100RS is basically the same thing with IMO a cooler looking fairing and more power.  Should be a bit easier to find one of those.

  last night bought my first BMW, white K100RS 1986 with 90k on it with plenty of spare parts.
 
Trim is mint with OEM M stripes in amazing conditions.

But there are few oil "sweat" spots and downright oil spots coming from old gaskets (valve cover etc). Coolant is green ( I believe OEM is blue) and seem to be ok.

Question:

Temperature shows 3/4, after warming up stationary. I believe it should be at 1/2 mark and stable or does it fluctuate once the vehicle starts to move? fan turns on. Coolant is low in the reservoir.  Vehicle was outside since the summer.

Congratulations on your new brick.

You are correct about the OEM coolant being blue, but there are good coolants that are green.  I know that the NAPA coolant is green, so I wouldn't worry about it until I looked at the insides of the cooling system.

The temperature gauge is going to go beyond the mid range when the bike isn't moving.  It should go close to or even into the red which is where the fan should come on to start cooling things down. 

Speaking of the fan, they have a reputation for seizing up.  With t he engine off, reach up and see if you can turn the blades.  They should turn freely, if not, you will need to replace the fan.  Not a big deal, there is an aftermarket model that sells for about $70 and takes about a day to install.

Unless every previous owner faithfully used distilled water I would plan on doing a complete cooling system flush plus a good clean out of the radiator fins.  That would be a good opportunity to do the fan if it's bad.

Point-Seven-five wrote:Congratulations on your new brick.

You are correct about the OEM coolant being blue, but there are good coolants that are green.  I know that the NAPA coolant is green, so I wouldn't worry about it until I looked at the insides of the cooling system.

The temperature gauge is going to go beyond the mid range when the bike isn't moving.  It should go close to or even into the red which is where the fan should come on to start cooling things down. 

Speaking of the fan, they have a reputation for seizing up.  With t he engine off, reach up and see if you can turn the blades.  They should turn freely, if not, you will need to replace the fan.  Not a big deal, there is an aftermarket model that sells for about $70 and takes about a day to install.

Unless every previous owner faithfully used distilled water I would plan on doing a complete cooling system flush plus a good clean out of the radiator fins.  That would be a good opportunity to do the fan if it's bad.

I would very much like to change all the fluids, filters and thermostat. Fan starts, not sure of the condition of it but that at least indicates that the temp sensor and the relay is OK.


Where does a smart K owner shop online?
 

p.s. I really like the looks of it now that I have it in my parking garage rather then just looking at the picture of it on the internet. Would not change a thing about the looks, its perfect

"p.s. I really like the looks of it now that I have it in my parking garage rather then just looking at the picture of it on the internet. Would not change a thing about the looks, its perfect "

I think that a lot of us will agree with you. 

As far as getting parts, you are somewhat limited by being in Canada.  I get almost everything from Max BMW in New Hampshire.  Not sure if they ship to Canada, though.  I also get parts off of eBay.  There are a lot of breakers selling K bike parts.  There are also some vendors for things like brake pads that have really good prices.  Shop around for tires.  Do a search on Shinko dealers.  They are good tires at a great price.  I use them as much as possible.

There are also other sources for stuff like oil, antifreeze, and filters.  Shell Rotella T6 15W40 synthetic is a super deal.  Fuel filters, try NAPA Gold 3032, Oil filter, I ask for AC Delco PF53 or equivalent.  Almost any modern "Long Life" anti freeze will work.  Prestone, Peak, NAPA, they will all work as long as you change every two years.

mnafasto wrote:  last night bought my first BMW, white K100RS 1986 with 90k on it with plenty of spare parts.
 
Trim is mint with OEM M stripes in amazing conditions.

Lets have some pictures then mnafasto

Sounds like you have one of the 700 M Sport K100s that were made and quite a few have gone to the crusher by now. I reckon that those M Sports will be quite a collectors item in the future.

Thanks Point-Seven-five, will start shopping to have the bike ready for the summer, it might needs a front tire. I heard of a BMW dealer that sells online OEM parts for a good price in Atlantic provinces so will start googling to find it.

Tried to upload the picture but it comes up as Error SyntaxError: Invalid character

RicK G wrote:Sounds like you have one of the 700 M Sport K100s that were made and quite a few have gone to the crusher by now. I reckon that those M Sports will be quite a collectors item in the future.

Not sure if that the M-sport version, on the ownership just says K100RS. I think I figured out how to upload the pictures

This is from Monday when we picked it up.

Sweet! 

Maybe I can help you get that beauty on the road.

Shinko tire dealers:   http://batchgeo.com/map/8a93c31352cfbb1db54756f90f0719fa

Brake pads:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Rear-Carbon-Kevlar-Organic-NAO-Brake-Pads-For-1987-1988-BMW-K-100-2-/361623715961?hash=item5432740079:g:CBgAAOSweWVXdVuP&vxp=mtr

If you can get to a Walmart in Niagara Falls, get this oil:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rotella-T6-5W40-CJ4-3-1ugl-A0II/102646780

Walmart also has great prices on gear oil and anti-freeze. 

Moly powder for the transmission and final drive:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/391442186584?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Point-Seven-five wrote:Sweet! 

Maybe I can help you get that beauty on the road.

Shinko tire dealers:   http://batchgeo.com/map/8a93c31352cfbb1db54756f90f0719fa

Brake pads:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Rear-Carbon-Kevlar-Organic-NAO-Brake-Pads-For-1987-1988-BMW-K-100-2-/361623715961?hash=item5432740079:g:CBgAAOSweWVXdVuP&vxp=mtr

If you can get to a Walmart in Niagara Falls, get this oil:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rotella-T6-5W40-CJ4-3-1ugl-A0II/102646780

Walmart also has great prices on gear oil and anti-freeze. 

Moly powder for the transmission and final drive:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/391442186584?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Thank you so much for the links.

I got 3 pairs of EBC brake pads, breaks always the first to be done on "new" used bike.

as per the oil in the Clymer Repair Manual it suggests to use SAE 15w 50, 20w-40, or 20w 50. Would not ride in the winter time and the summers gets pretty hot here. I was thinking to use Liqui Moly T4 15W 50 http://www.liqui-moly.com/liquimoly/produktdb.nsf/id/en_2555.html?OpenDocument&land=GB

Manual specifies that its oil for temp -20 to +30 C. (-3 to 85 F). from what I read K, and other bike owner do prefer Shells Rotella to other brands.

Have not figured out what the powder for. Didn't get to that page in Clymer Manual yet.

Found an online BMW dealer in the area http://parts.bmwbikes.ca/BMW_1986_K100RS/Engine.html
Prices are not that bad. 

Any idea where to get engine gasket kit and bolts, screws, nuts etc kit that quality for a fair price? Ebay or there is some secret place?   

Cheers,

I get my gaskets from BMW.  Max BMW specifically.  For nuts and bolts, there is a 300+ piece kit of stainless for something like $60 on eBay.  A lot of riders in the States have used that kit. 

The moly powder coats the internal parts of the transmission and final drive with a film of molybdenum that is more slippery than oil and has a higher film strength since it can't be squeezed out like a liquid can. This powder is used in helicopter gearboxes and in the drive trains of Nascar racers where it has been shown to reduce operating temperatures, and therefore internal friction, by as much as 20 degrees C.

While the viscosity numbers of the Rotella T6 aren't perfect, I've been using it for about 40,000 miles across 3 bikes and so far it seems to be working very well.  My thinking is that any oil designed to work in the hellish conditions of heavy duty diesel engines will probably work pretty well in my bikes.

I personally think that you are better to go to the BMW dealer in Ontario for the gaskets. If you order online, you will have to pay for shipping and at the end it could be more expensive than going to the dealer.
Ebay is good for brake pads and used parts. I just bought a set of mirrors on Ebay (coming from Quebec) and the total cost with shipping and taxes is only (CAD)$131. This was a super deal.

+1 on going to a local dealer.  The only reason I use Max BMW is that the closest local BMW dealer is a three hour round trip.  Shipping is less than what I would pay in sales tax, never mind the gas and time.  

I have found when traveling that the dealer parts guys can be very helpful.  If there was a dealer locally, I probably wouldn't use the internet for new parts.

(Perhaps) I'm thick, but I'm still a bit confused with the moly powder as well.  Do you mix the powder in with the transmission and gear oil when you change it like an oil additive?  If so, how much?

nvboy

I just put it in through a funnel.  I carefully pour the powder into a measuring spoon and then into the funnel.  Takes a bit of tapping to get it to flow through the funnel.  I used about 2 rounded tablespoons in the transmission and 1 in the final drive.

It takes some running to get the powder mixed and into all the contact spots in the drive train.  That's why it takes a few miles to really see the improvement.  In the transmission, the places I want it to get into are where the shift forks ride on the shift drum and where the gears slide on the shafts.  These are the moving parts that affect how smoothly the transmission changes gears.  The idea here is exactly the same as lubing the splines.  That is to making sliding parts move more easily.

Any reduction in friction where gear teeth engage is icing on the cake.  But reductions there can be substantial as well, especially when the drive train is heavily loaded, as it is when accelerating hard.

Hi Max, here's the brochure for the 'special edition' 1986 K.



Note that it had radial tyres (Gürtelreifen) back in 1986.

When I built my outfit in 1988, I bought a blue K and a new white sidecar. As the sidecar was in gel coat, I had the bike re-painted to match the plain white of the sidecar; the painters, Dream Machine, asked me what sort of lining I wanted and I chose the Motorsport style which still looks good after all these years: but mine is plain white as opposed to the 'pearl white' finish.

Paul.

Thanks guys, didnt know I have special edition. Warms my heart and is a great selling feature for my girlfriend to justify the buy.


Went to the BMW dealer and spoke with MasterTech.

was advised that everyone lubricates the rear splines but no one ever does the clutch end splines so they go to shit first. Looked up at the clynes manual and it

 seems to be a mission. I was thinking to check the clutch plate itself to see if I might as well replace it.


Any idea how long is the intervals between changing clutch. mine is at 90k km. could not find the intervals in the service book or manual. (based on normal rider).


Spent about 200 CAD= 150USD at the dealer on all the fluids. + Honda MOLY for the splines. once I replace coolant was thinking to change thermostat as well.

 at the dealer they are around 70 USD. any idea where to get cheaper one? Ebay seem not to have new one at the moment.


also has sticky throttle. lubed the hell out of the handle and the handlebar mechanism with no luck. throttle body itself moves smoothly. so I'm thinking jammed cable.  


I love the bike even though I had not had a chance to ride it yet. I think an other $500USD and it should be mint and ready for April.

Welcome too and a little bit from me.

My rear crankshaft seal was failing, am at about 125,000 km, so in the nest 2 weeks that will be done but while at it a new clutch plate and release bearing, new gearbox seals, replace clutch pivot bearings and spline lubes. To get at that rear engine seal clutch, flywheel, everything has to come off. Since I have to go in that far I decided to do the lot and not have to go back again for a long time. If anything putting back in new parts means no trying to clean up or sort out old ones or find surprises along the way.

I think if you are going in, given the fact that its a special edition, I would do all those things too. Clutch friction plate is not expensive over here.

I did replace cables on mine after I got it.

Another point of view here.  Check the thickness of the friction disc.  New is 5.5mm and the service limit is 4.5mm.  On my K75 at 70,000 miles it is 5.1mm, not half worn.  On my K100 with 110,000 miles it is 5.0mm. 

Do you have heated grips?  On my RT the throttle was sluggish and did not improve with all sorts of lubrication and cable adjustment.  Turns out that the perch was pushed too far onto the handlebar and the heater wire was rubbing on the end of the bar tube. 

I found it when I was investigating why fuse #1 blew every time I used the heated grips.  After I repaired the spot where the insulation was worn off I slid the grip about 4-5mm toward the end of the bar.  After getting everything back together I discovered that the throttle returns properly now as well.

Welcome Max. There is a thriving K-bike community in the GTA and you should meet up with us. Lots of experience combined. There's also diccussions that go on in the Motobrick forums.

Toronto BMW downtown and Max BMW in Burlington are good places to go for parts.

Most birck riders use Mobil-1 0W50 not Rotella.

Clutch splines are easy once you've done it once. First time takes a weekend. Second time take a day. Third time takes 4 hours. There are tricks to pulling the rear end that save time. Also a good idea to look at the TGPI switch and other rubber parts while the transmission is off. If you're not completely sure of the maintenance history, a rear main seal replacement is in your future.

If your thermostat is not acting up, then leave it alone. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. The thermostats rarely act up.

Your sticky throttle is probably cable routing. Don't lubricate the cable itself ever. That will destroy the teflon liner on the inside.

Good luck with your restoration.

Hi guys,

$1500 in parts later, I'm almost done putting the bike together.

I was dredging the day I have to deal with the electronics. its a mess.



still waiting for my OEM heated grips.



what I want to fix now is the light.


can some one please tell how its all connected?


The issue is that it has been all ripped out. Only the low beam and hi beam flasher works but not the high beam (LH light swtich)


The central handlebar light is not connected to anything. Had one wire hanging from it.


from where do I feed the wires to handlebar switch, were does each wire go on the bar switch and where does it connect to the left hand side light switch? this is north American version of k100rs 86.




Please help, pictures would be helpful too.

Have you looked at This schematic ? Click on the "lights" tab. This should help you.

mnafasto wrote:can some one please tell how its all connected?

See this wiring diagram for your bike:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3UPbNZRyr1rWHlMbC01eGtwR1U/view?usp=drivesdk

mnafasto wrote:The issue is that it has been all ripped out. Only the low beam and hi beam flasher works but not the high beam (LH light switch).  The central handlebar light is not connected to anything. Had one wire hanging from it.  from where do I feed the wires to handlebar switch, were does each wire go on the bar switch and where does it connect to the left hand side light switch? this is north American version of k100rs 86.

There are two rather large AMP connectors centrally located under the tank which goes to their respective handlebar switch (LH and RH).  The wiring for the headlamp runs through the harness and connects to the handlebar switches via these AMP connectors.  I'm not at all sure what you mean by "central handlebar light"; is that the dash that is located over the handlebar clamps and triple clamp?  If that's what you mean, then there are no switches on this dash on a standard K100 that have anything to do with the main headlight.

Power for the high beam flash is supplied by Fuse 7 and goes to the LH switch cluster as Green/Blue.  The power for normal beam /  high beam functions comes via Green/Blue and then White/Yellow through the RH switch cluster.  What's happening is that power from Green/Blue is fed from the RH switch cluster through the harness to the light switch on the RH switch cluster.  If you don't have a light switch, then you will see a couple of factory-installed wire shorts on the right hand AMP connector.  Then this power is supplied back through the harness on White/Yellow to the LH switch cluster.

First of all check for +12V on Green/Blue and White/Yellow with the power applied.  If you see power, then the issue is with your LH switch cluster.  If your high beam is not working, it might be because the LH switch is not making contact. Could be a couple reasons for this.  
Reason (1) the contacts are dirty; clean them
Reason (2) the P.O. threw in a 100/90 halogen instead of a 55/60 causing the LH switch cluster to melt; fix this.  There are posts on the forum where guys have taken the switch apart and replaced the brass contacts.  Alternatively, find a replacement LH switch cluster.  

In any case, install a headlight relay to make sure you never have to replace the LH switch cluster again, and you'll end up with a brighter headlight to boot.

There are two rather large AMP connectors centrally located under the tank which goes to their respective handlebar switch (LH and RH).  The wiring for the headlamp runs through the harness and connects to the handlebar switches via these AMP connectors.  I'm not at all sure what you mean by "central handlebar light"; is that the dash that is located over the handlebar clamps and triple clamp?  If that's what you mean, then there are no switches on this dash on a standard K100 that have anything to do with the main headlight.

Power for the high beam flash is supplied by Fuse 7 and goes to the LH switch cluster as Green/Blue.  The power for normal beam /  high beam functions comes via Green/Blue and then White/Yellow through the RH switch cluster.  What's happening is that power from Green/Blue is fed from the RH switch cluster through the harness to the light switch on the RH switch cluster.  If you don't have a light switch, then you will see a couple of factory-installed wire shorts on the right hand AMP connector.  Then this power is supplied back through the harness on White/Yellow to the LH switch cluster.

First of all check for +12V on Green/Blue and White/Yellow with the power applied.  If you see power, then the issue is with your LH switch cluster.  If your high beam is not working, it might be because the LH switch is not making contact. Could be a couple reasons for this.  
Reason (1) the contacts are dirty; clean them
Reason (2) the P.O. threw in a 100/90 halogen instead of a 55/60 causing the LH switch cluster to melt; fix this.  There are posts on the forum where guys have taken the switch apart and replaced the brass contacts.  Alternatively, find a replacement LH switch cluster.  

In any case, install a headlight relay to make sure you never have to replace the LH switch cluster again, and you'll end up with a brighter headlight to boot.

Thank you so much, that clarified everything, i bought used LH assembly and the light works well now. the parking light was actually the fuse, so its working now well.

Geometry is now the main issue. I have rebuild by advance suspension coilover. Put it 10wt oil in it with 150 psi in aux tank and 7.5wt into front forks. I have tighten coil to much i think, its almost at the lowest point. bike seem to do wheelies easily. not sure if its normal for k100? 

Thank you for your advice, it saved me lots of worries.

I can't comment on the wheelie problem. Some might not think it is a problem, but they are usually hooligans.

I hope you have either bought a headlight relay kit from Eastern Beaver or built one yourself out of standard SPDT automotive relays. It's going to save that new switch assembly lots of wear and tear. I used this circuit: