Smithduck, who is a contributor to many K100 forums, has posted instructions on installing Symtec grip heaters on a K75/K100. These instructions are available at this location:

Smithduck's Instructions on Installing Symtec Heaters on a K100

I won't duplicate those instructions however I improved the installation by running the heater wires within the handlebars instead of outside as Smithduck describes. These are the steps I followed:

My objective was to replace the BMW grip heaters with aftermarket heaters, since I lost that functionallity by upgrading my master cylinder (there were many repercussions because of that change). I purchased the Symtec Complete Motorcycle Grip Heater Set and a pair of Pro Grip 713 rubber grips. I needed the grips because I would destroy the BMW grips in the process. The symtec heaters have two printed circuit heating elements, low and high. There is a need to modify the standard BMW heater switch to accomodate the Symtecs and Smithduck describes that change.

When it came to running the wires inside the handlebars, I needed a way to fish the wires through the inside of the bars. A string serves the purpose. I tied a string to the end of the existing clutch side heater wire and removed the existing clutch grip. The string was drawn through the bars using the same path as the original wires. I threaded the Symtec wire through the barend weight and tied the string to it. I pulled the wire completely through the handlebars and out the hole near the trippleclamp. I bent over the wires, secured the heater to the bars (self-adhesive back) and pressed home the barend. There is a large portion of the handlebar removed at the end to accomodate the wire loop and fitting the Pro Grip on was easy and straight forward. The picture below shows Symtec wires on the clutch side.

The throttle side was harder. The constant twisting of the throttle puts a strain on the wires and a solution was needed to allow the wire to thread through the bars yet remain loose and flexible against the rotational motion. The photo below shows that unless a modification was made, there would not be enough room for the wire to flex as needed. What was required was to open the end of the throttle shell to provide that room.

First I cut off the existing K1100 grip and discarded it. I began by wrapping painter's tape around the end of the shell and marking the point on the tape where the 7 o'clock cutout in the bars was while the throttle was fully closed.

Next I rotated the throttle fully open and marked the other side at 3 o'clock.

I then drew a connection line about 5-6mm from the end. These formed by cut lines.

I took a hacksaw and carefully cut away the plastic on the shell. The last bits I used a utility knife to part the scrap from the shell.

I now had a cutout that could accomodate the wire through a complete rotation cycle of the throttle.

I fished the wire through the bars and positined the wires so that they nearly touched the handlebar ends at 3 o'clock while the throttle was at rest. This gave me maximum space to accomodate wire flex.


I tested the rotation and was glad to see that everything functioned as planned.

It is possible to see in the photo below that the space for the wire is larger and premature failure of the heater due to excessive wire flex-failure is not possible.

I then fitted the barend and attached the grip. The final assembly was to attach the grip heaters to the existing heater circuit. Since I was unable to find the BMW connectors, I used Amp connectors which were readily available. When everything was complete, I tested the heating. It worked great. I've very happy.

The fairing should be ready sometime next week. I'll have the bike on the road hopefully in less than two weeks.

Robert.

Hi, I've never liked the ground wire that came with the RS. Six square millimeters is so wimpy. I was scouting around Canadian Tire yesterday and found a NASCAR Advantage product they sell -- a 21 Sq. mm Starter to Switch cable complete with crimped on terminal tabs for retrofitting to a car. I picked up a 38cm (15") long cable for $7 and swapped out my original ground. I now have nearly 4 times the cross sectional area for return current. That should serve me well now and in the future when I swap out my 32A alternator for a 50A one (possibly next year).