Any advice regarding replacing clutch cable on 1992 K1100 RS.

Can the new one be pulled through with the old one? If so from top or bottom?

I'm assuming the tank needs to come off. Never had it off so "how/what to do"?

Haven't had to do one on a K1100RS but I would:

1 - Remove the tank first since it's pretty tight in there and the pull-through might need some nudging along the way. 

2 - I usually use the old one to pull a strong piece of strong though first and then use the string to pull the new one through. I'd cut the rubber boot off of the rear end and pull it through from the front.

3 - Pull the new one from the rear so you don't risk tearing up the rubber boot on the transmission end.

duck wrote:Haven't had to do one on a K1100RS but I would:

1 - Remove the tank first since it's pretty tight in there and the pull-through might need some nudging along the way. 

2 - I usually use the old one to pull a strong piece of strong though first and then use the string to pull the new one through. I'd cut the rubber boot off of the rear end and pull it through from the front.

3 - Pull the new one from the rear so you don't risk tearing up the rubber boot on the transmission end.

Thanks sound right. Thanks a lot. Any hint on removing the tank?

Its a tank off job.

If you haven't taken the tank off before or never taken one off a motorcycle before hold off until someone pops up instructions for the K1100RS.

I have taken tank off K100RT and K100LT and they are probably fairly alike in that some fairing parts come off these and probably also on the K1100RS. Its not difficult but just needs thought. The fuel lines need disconnecting and if they are perished or hard they may split. With tank off give a thought to replacing them with longer ones. They may well be original and held on with the factory clips which are a pain in as*.If possible have as little fuel as possible in the tank. You have an electrical connection too, for fuel pump and gauge wiring.

You will need somewhere soft to lay the tank and be careful of the tank spigots that the fuel lines go on to. If abused they can break.

Space is limited so you do come up from the rear as Duck says. When you are done make sure everything works after before you refit the tank.

Clutch cable does not come with the top nipple and there is also a nylon sleeve for it.  You need these separately and keep the old nipple as a spare taped up in the bike somewhere, maybe inside the relay box.

Aside from the side/battery covers, you don't need to remove any fairing parts on any K bike to get the tank off.

I wasn't very clear.

The painted fairing itself doesn't but on the K100RT and LT the leg panels and the storage boxes needed to come out to lift it away, on mine the steel frames inside the boxes catch the tank. I have tried sliding it back without taking them off but it wouldn't work even with the seat out of the way. Accessing the fuel hose connections is also difficult with them in place although mine are set that I can do it through the lower vents.

As I said the K1100RS may be different in that regard.

Not an RS, but my K1100LT needs no fairing panels or pockets removed to gain access to remove the tank. Side panels and seat only.

Mike

I need to rethink this one but I have not so far been able to get the tank off without removing those bits.  Makes sense not to have to take them off too.

Hmmmmh I'm puzzled. Getting the tank of a Japanese bike is usually:

1. Open the seat
2. Pull tank up from the rear about 5-10 cm.
3. Draw tank back towards seat.
4. Lay tank gently down almost where it is normally placed.
5. Remove fuel line (and any electrical wires).
6. Take tank fully off.

If you have any pictures regarding to show any tricks it will be apreseated.

Regarding missing part on top of clutch cable. Can't I just use the old part?

PS this movie worries me. What has the side stand to do with the clutch? Also if the clutch is adjusted on the buttom end I need to take off part of the faring, right?

https://youtu.be/gBW4D2jDw2A

Danish biker wrote: Hmmmmh I'm puzzled. Getting the tank of

Check 3b and 4: In this document.

Danish biker wrote: Regarding missing part on top of clutch cable. Can't I just use the old part?

The nippleholder?....Check that it isn't worn, if not it shouldn't be any problem to reuse it.

Danish biker wrote: What has the side stand to do with the clutch?

2V models only, you have a switch to prevent that you drive away with the sidestand Down.

Inge K. wrote:

Danish biker wrote:Hmmmmh I'm puzzled. Getting the tank of

Check 3b and 4: In this document.

Super. And I was lucky. There was no C-clips so the tank is easy to get up and back.

Next step is the fuel lines.

One is attached like this:



The other (which worries me) like this:



Can it be drawn off or do I need a tool to ruin the metal lock ring?

Also do I need to disconnect the electronic fuel pump system. I viewed a YouTube clip showing I should disconnect the cable, Start up the bike. It will go out in a few seconds because the cable is disconnected. This in order to avoid fuel running out off the tank when taking off the two fuel lines????

Is it this cable:



Last but least:

Seriously do I actually have to take off the tank now it is loose? I'm guessing the tank no longer presses on the clutch cable and there for I might be able to pull it up and out and hooking the new cable to the rear of the old cable and get it installed while pulling the old one out?

Danish biker wrote:Seriously do I actually have to take off the tank now it is loose? 

I think the two members that have referred to doing this procedure with the tank removed were being serious. Consulting a manual like Clymer, Haynes, a BMW shop manual, or the many references on this site might be helpful, too.

This might be one of those times when you just need to prove to yourself how the job should be done. You'll get it done, eventually.

Forward!

Laitch wrote:This might be one of those times when you just need to prove to yourself how the job should be done. You'll get it done, eventually.

He, he maybe so but if one doesn't put the question one doesn't get the proper answer (being based on experience).

So you might be right but I'm hoping someone who actually knows will come forward. A forum like this is a super way to avoid doing things wrong (or the hard way).

Danish biker wrote: Next step is the fuel lines.

The other (which worries me) like this:
Can it be drawn off or do I need a tool to ruin the metal lock ring?

Check other end of the hose (fuel rail rear end) you maybe have a adjustable hose clip there.

Danish biker wrote:
Also do I need to disconnect the electronic fuel pump system. I viewed a YouTube clip showing I should disconnect the cable, Start up the bike. It will go out in a few seconds because the cable is disconnected. This in order to avoid fuel running out off the tank when taking off the two fuel lines????

This is to depressurize the fuel system.

Danish biker wrote: Is it this cable:????

Top: sidestand switch.....bottom: fuel tank.

Danish biker wrote:
Last but least:

Seriously do I actually have to take off the tank now it is loose? I'm guessing the tank no longer presses on the clutch cable and there for I might be able to pull it up and out and hooking the new cable to the rear of the old cable and get it installed while pulling the old one out?

It's much more easy With the tank out of the way, then you see what you are doing and isn't in the risk to disconnect wiring and damage wire insulation.

Inge K. wrote:Check other end of the hose (fuel rail rear end) you maybe have a adjustable hose clip there.

Sorry should have done that myself. Yes I was lucky this line was the one that doesn't disappear into unknown territory (and it has a adsusteble hose clip). So fare so good.

Inge K. wrote:This is to depressurize the fuel system.

Ok but do I need to disconnect it before I take the fuel lines off (or do I need to take any other electrical cable apart)?

Inge K. wrote:Top: sidestand switch.....bottom: fuel tank.

Ok so this is the fuel tank cable. But do I need to disconnect it?:

Inge K. wrote:It's much more easy With the tank out of the way, then you see what you are doing and isn't in the risk to disconnect wiring and damage wire insulation.

Will do thanks. Now I only need to know if fuel will run all over when I take off the two fuel lines. And if I need to disconnect any electrical wires.

Disconnect the fuel pump by the electrical connector for the tank,
run the engine until it stops caused by fuel starvation.....undo the fuel hoses.

Still it gonna be a minor fuel spill, have some rags ready.
But it gonna be minimal compared to what's gonna happen if you don't
depressusize the fuel system and disconnect the hose that have 2.5 bar pressure.

Inge K. wrote:Disconnect the fuel pump by the electrical connector for the tank,
run the engine until it stops caused by fuel starvation.....undo the fuel hoses.

Ok. And excuse me if I'm a little slow, but is this the cable (better safe the sorry):

Yes, on the small label you can read "benzintank" or similar.

Inge K. wrote:Yes, on the small label you can read "benzintank" or similar.

Thanks Inge you made my day.

Memo for myself: Start the engine BEFORE you disconnect the cable 😏



How ever I did think the cable would be visible after removing the tank. Apparently it runs under what is between the tank and engine. Oh well it won't make it harder with the tank off that is very clear.

Hi there, Danish biker ! 

Now that you are at this point (tank off): it's a good idea to check the central 'ground' ! It´s the screw with all the brown-cabled connectors underneath it. (Positioned on the left-hand side of the centre frametube.)

Loosen the screw, remove all rust and give the connectors a wipe with a steel or copperbrush to ensure that you have good contact. An easy job that saves you lots of trouble.

Also my prefered method of changing the cables: I always tie a bricklayers-cord to the old cable and then gently pull the cable out.
But first: check the routing of the old cable as far as you can see it; there may be some tieraps that have to be cut (and replaced afterwarts !)
After disconnecting the old cable you can hook up the new one and pul it up in place very easy. (Pushing the cable and pulling the cord simultaneously helps and "easy does it"...)

Good luck and enjoy your bike !

Jos.

New cable is installed and tank back on. How ever even though the adjustment screw on the clutch handle is fully loose (screwed in as fare possible) there is no take-up.

I'm assuming I need to adjust on the bottom end. I know the 13 mm nut must be loosened and then the 10 mm screw goes in or out to adjust. It just seems like there is no room to do this. Any advice and also how much (mm) take-up should I go for?

Clutch cable adjustment:

1. Loosen the handle bar cable adjustment and adjust till you have 75mm of inner cable showing at the bottom end and then lock it off. Best to check your manual to see how that's measured. It needs to be reasonably accurate.
   
2. Loosen the adjustment on the clutch operating lever at the rear of the GB. Screw the adjuster bolt in by hand till it juuuust comes in contact with the push rod. You'll feel it. Carefully tighten the lock nut. While you're down there check the condition of the rubber boot. They can perish and leak oil.
   
3. Adjust the handle bar clutch lever adjustment till there is 4mm gap/play between the lever and the mounting.
   
4. Check clutch operation for slip and drag.
   

Make sure you clean and grease the handlebar cable pivot. They become dry and then bind which will stress the cable at the very top end. This is where they usually break.

Hey!
You will find some more info
https://www.k100-forum.com/t10651-clutch-cable-adjustment-86-k75

Cheers

'

Chocolate wrote:Hey!
You will find some more info
https://www.k100-forum.com/t10651-clutch-cable-adjustment-86-k75

Cheers

Thanks. I already have seen the movie (twice) but the guy have taken several parts off so he can easily get too the adjustment screws. I'm looking for advice how to get to the lock nut without reassembling my bike 😏

Holister wrote:Clutch cable adjustment:

1. Loosen the handle bar cable adjustment and adjust till you have 75mm of inner cable showing at the bottom end and then lock it off. Best to check your manual to see how that's measured. It needs to be reasonably accurate.
   
2. Loosen the adjustment on the clutch operating lever at the rear of the GB. Screw the adjuster bolt in by hand till it juuuust comes in contact with the push rod. You'll feel it. Carefully tighten the lock nut. While you're down there check the condition of the rubber boot. They can perish and leak oil.
   
3. Adjust the handle bar clutch lever adjustment till there is 4mm gap/play between the lever and the mounting.
   
4. Check clutch operation for slip and drag.
   

Make sure you clean and grease the handlebar cable pivot. They become dry and then bind which will stress the cable at the very top end. This is where they usually break.

Regarding 1. as fare as I can measure it is as close to 75 mm as I can see (will messure more accurate tomorrow). The handlebar cable is as loose as it can possible be.

Regarding 2. What is the "rubber boot"? Pictures will be apreseated. 

Regarding 3. As mentioned I can only tighten the handlebar cable so no way I can get 4 mm play.

Regarding 4. Copy. As it is now the wheel turn freely when clutch handle is fully pulled. But now "play".

Handlebar cable pivot?? Again pictures will be greatly apreseated. 

Sorry English is not my native language so thecnical terms like "cable pivot" just doesn't ring a bell. I can guess what it is and I'm almost sure I know what you are referring to. But like the "rubber boot" I'm just not 100 % sure.

Danish biker wrote:Sorry English is not my native language so thecnical terms like "cable pivot" just doesn't ring a bell. I can guess what it is and I'm almost sure I know what you are referring to. But like the "rubber boot" I'm just not 100 % sure.

The "cable pivot" is the opening in the handlebar clutch lever that received the barrel attached to the upper end of the cable when you installed it. The "rubber boot" is what surrounds the clutch push rod. The clutch push rod protrudes from the transmission inside the swing arm and is what the adjusting bolt attached to the clutch release arm (operating lever) contacts.

Where did you buy the new cable? What is its part number? Do you have a stock RS handlebar or something else? There should be no trouble setting the 75mm cable length at the clutch operating lever and setting the 4mm free play at the point A in the diagrams of Chocolate's post. You must figure out that problem first. 

If you are having trouble seeing what you are doing, remove the muffler or rear wheel but for many people, a clutch adjustment just means rolling around on the floor with a couple of wrenches, and sometimes a dog.

Laitch wrote:....but for many people, a clutch adjustment just means rolling around on the floor with a couple of wrenches, and sometimes a dog.

Yes it works!

Cable pivot...like Laitch said, the hole where the nipple (snort, giggle) of the clutch cable fits.



Clutch boot (circled)...


I hope this helps.

Danish biker wrote:
Sorry English is not my native language so thecnical terms like "cable pivot" just doesn't ring a bell. I can guess what it is and I'm almost sure I know what you are referring to. But like the "rubber boot" I'm just not 100 % sure.

Norsk og Dansk er jo ikke helt ulikt....så det kan være at det blir enklere å forstå.

"Cable pivot" er nippelen i det øvre håndtaket, den er avhengig av å kunne dreie
fritt noen få grader....hvis ikke vil wiren få et tretthetsbrudd her, da den
i stedet vil bli "brukket" hvis det ikke er tilstrekkelig smurning så nippelen
kan dreie.

"Rubber boot" er mansjetten nede ved girkassen hvor den nederste justeringskruen
befinner seg.

Den nederste justeringskruen er tilgjengelig nedenfra på høyre side,
på kontramutteren benytter jeg en offset 13 mm ringnøkkel og en vanlig
ringnøkkel på justeringskruen.

Det er vesentlig for funksjonen samt å hindre lekkasjer at disse justeringer
er korrekte.

Then we have both pictures and a Norwegian explanation.....what a mess
....hope this helps .

All we need is a video in English and another in Norwegian and then I'd say we have just about nailed it!

Oh...and maybe a couple of drawings too!

blaKey wrote:Oh...and maybe a couple of drawings too!

How about another image? Boot clutch.

What a splendid idea......leather as a clutch friction material.
Wasn't that used on the very first clutches....yay to a greener planet.

Danish biker wrote:
Thanks. I already have seen the movie (twice) but the guy have taken several parts off so he can easily get too the adjustment screws. I'm looking for advice how to get to the lock nut without reassembling my bike 😏

You don't need to remove anything off the bike. Its easily adjustable as is and can be done in about 5 to 10 mins.

A vernier caliper can be used to measure the cable length but its probably easier to make a little template type of tool out of cardboard or sheet metal.

The clutch adjustment located at the rear of the GB is easily accessible from the R/H side but you'll need to lay down on your back to get to it unless you have a lift.

I've noticed before that there are a few different ways to adjust the clutch. I've always used the method I described above which is from the Haynes service manual. I've never had a problem.

There is also a copy of the owner's manual available to see how it's done.

Ok I get it. The movie actually helps a lot. And Inges translation along with all the other posts of boots etc. 😂

Spray oil into any/every part where the cable goes into the handlebar.

Don't worry about any free play when installing the new cable.

If you get the 75 mm right the free play is set by backing out the 10 mm screw on the GB after loosening the 13 mm lock nut.

Back it out until you have 4 mm free play.

Pull the clutch handel fully and tighten the 13 mm lock nut.

Check any rubber for leeks and cry if something leeks because you don't have a replacement part 😥😥😥

Still puzzled about someone posted that I should tighten the 10 mm and not loosen it. As fare as I can figure out the only way I can get free play is by screwing it OUT??

PS "Cable pivot" in none technical English is called:

"The small round thing, the size of a .25 to .32 caliber pistol case, with a hole sideways where the top end of the clutch cable is attached to so it will be locked into the clutch handlebar. Also the part that Inge earlier posted that doesn't come with the cable (nippleholder she called it)!"

😜😜😜

Danish biker wrote: If you get the 75 mm right the free play is set by backing out the 10 mm screw on the GB after loosening the 13 mm lock nut.

Back it out until you have 4 mm free play.

Pull the clutch handel fully and tighten the 13 mm lock nut.

Another Norwegian lesson for all members:

Justér skruen ved hendelen slik at du 75 mm fri lengde på den nedre del av innerwiren,
deretter stiller du inn justeringsskruen på girkassen slik at den akkurat for kontakt med stempelet (altså ingen slakk) så låser du den med kontramutteren.
Deretter stiller du den øvre slakk på 4 mm ved hjelp av justeringsskruen oppe ved hendelen på styret.

Justert teksten en smule da den i utgangspunktet ikke var helt korrekt.

N

Inge K. wrote:

Danish biker wrote: If you get the 75 mm right the free play is set by backing out the 10 mm screw on the GB after loosening the 13 mm lock nut.

Back it out until you have 4 mm free play.

Pull the clutch handel fully and tighten the 13 mm lock nut.

Another Norwegian lesson for all members:

Justér skruen på gearkassen slik at du 75 mm fri lengde på den nedre del av innerwiren,
deretter låser du den med kontramutteren.
Så stiller du den øvre slakk på 4 mm ved hjelp av justeringsskruen oppe ved hendelen på styret.

Ok so exactly opposite of what the movie shows???

Teksten var i utgangspunktet ikke helt korrekt, er nå korrigert.

Filmen er ulik fra metoden som BMW beskriver, men det ender på
noenlunde samme sluttresultat.....jeg har holdt meg til BMWs metode.

Inge K. wrote:
Another Norwegian lesson for all members:

Justér skruen ved hendelen slik at du 75 mm fri lengde på den nedre del av innerwiren,
deretter stiller du inn justeringsskruen på girkassen slik at den akkurat for kontakt med stempelet (altså ingen slakk) så låser du den med kontramutteren.
Deretter stiller du den øvre slakk på 4 mm ved hjelp av justeringsskruen oppe ved hendelen på styret.

Justert teksten en smule da den i utgangspunktet ikke var helt korrekt.

I think my Norwegian is as non-existent as ever! More to do with the student than the teacher. 

Bill

Indian036 then I probably shouldn't replay in Danish 😄

Any way there is No Way I can get to the 13 mm lock nut with my 13 mm tool. Not even if I bring both my dogs and we all 3 slide etc. on the floor. There is no room for "normal" tools.

WTF I can't seem to post pictures (URL) as I normally can. 😔

DB if you remove tbe exhaust can for access, it makes the job soooooo much easier    That way you can lie on the floor and get both arms in there with 10 and 13mm spanners attached.  You can also remove the rear wheel.  

I regularly remove the rear wheel for access because it makes life easier. Some people like to make things hard for themselves for some reason.  I do not. 

Danish biker wrote:Any way there is No Way I can get to the 13 mm lock nut with my 13 mm tool. Not even if I bring both my dogs and we all 3 slide etc. on the floor. There is no room for "normal" tools.

All the manuals I have fail to disclose there is a minimum arm length for floor-rolling mechanical procedures. They do mention that to change the fuel filter small hands are helpful but the two measurements are not necessarily related. 

Also, a brief course in yoga might improve flexibility just enough to allow access to the clutch adjustment bolt with either normal or abnormal tools. Such courses often have attractive scenery to take the mind off mechanical troubles for a while.

Ok guys and girls I have bought the tools and can get to both the 13 mm nut and 10 mm screw. The cable is adjusted to excalty 75 mm and shown on movie and manual.

BUT there is no way I can get any free play. I've had the 10 mm screw totally out but no free play.

What to do???

Danish biker wrote:What to do???

Where did you get your new cable? What is its part number? Do you have a standard RS handlebar or some other type of bar? Is your handlebar mounted on bar-backs or risers?
https://translate.google.com

Danish biker wrote:BUT there is no way I can get any free play. I've had the 10 mm screw totally out but no free play.

If you have the screw out and no free play, something is totally wrong.
It is a spring inside the boot which press against the lower lever, could
it be that you feel this pressure....or is the lever at the handlebar very
stiff to move?

You should feel a lot of difference from the screw out to the screw almost
all the way in......test this so you know how much difference it should be.

Laitch wrote:

Danish biker wrote:What to do???

Where did you get your new cable? What is its part number? Do you have a standard RS handlebar or some other type of bar? Is your handlebar mounted on bar-backs or risers?
https://translate.google.com

I got the cable via the link someone posted earlier in this post (via England) and I'm sure it is 100 % correct. My handlebar is original.

C

Inge K. wrote:

Danish biker wrote:BUT there is no way I can get any free play. I've had the 10 mm screw totally out but no free play.

If you have the screw out and no free play, something is totally wrong.
It is a spring inside the boot which press against the lower lever, could
it be that you feel this pressure....or is the lever at the handlebar very
stiff to move?

You should feel a lot of difference from the screw out to the screw almost
all the way in......test this so you know how much difference it should be.

The handlebar is not stiff/hard to move. It feels quit normal except I can't get 4 mm free play. As mentioned the wheel turns fine when the bike is in gear but clutch fully pulled.

PS again a technical exprecian I don't know. The boot????? Yes I noticed a motorcycle boot picture earlier, but I have know idea what "the boot" is, when it comes to the cluth?

As soon as I press on my handlebar the arm on the GB that the rear rear no of the clutch cable is attached to, starts to move. No free play.

Danish biker wrote:
As soon as I press on my handlebar the arm on the GB that the rear rear no of the clutch cable is attached to, starts to move. No free play.

And the adjuster at the handlebar lever is screwed all the way in?
(ie, no more adjustement at the adjuster screw is possible).