Hi Folks any advise if i want to change the faring and handle bar to a RT version. Thanks in advance

Can be done without too much difficulty.

Make sure you get all the fixings, bolts, bushes and baffles with the RT/LT fairing. RT and LT are the same fairing and configuration so either will do. As far as I can see the K75 RT/LT fairing is also the same mouldings but mountings differ. You also need the K100 RT/LT metal mounting bracket that bolts to the front of the frame. Make sure the mounting points in the RT/LT main or 'front' fairing are intact as these can be damaged in a fall over.

Apart from handlebars you need the RT/LT clutch cable, I think there is an RT/LT accelerator/throttle cable and you need the from master cylinder to handlebar stem brake pipe for RT/LT as its longer. If coming from an RS the headlight will be same but if not then you may need a headlight unit. If front indicators are not in the new fairing then you need these too. Again same for K100 K75 RT/LT.

The switch gear, clutch switch, front brake switch, front brake earth wire does not need to be replaced but you will have to reroute or free them up a little to make up the longer distance. The connectors are all under the gas tank. Make sure the connectors are all checked and fully home otherwise you may have a non start or non running K.

I did discover one thing too. Recently I changed my clocks due to non functioning speedo. The replacement one came from a 1984 K100RS. When I went to do the swap the new one did not want to fit and I found that the aluminium mounting plates were different. The 'new' clocks came with their mounting plate and initially would not fit the RT. Both were for 1984 bikes and both plates had the same part number cast into them. The RS mounting plate had a section in the form of two tabs that came up in front of the clocks and I cut them off with a hacksaw to make the two plates identical and painted the cut edge to stop corrosion getting in there.

The clocks come off easily and probably worth taking them out of the way to make access to the wiring that's clipped onto the front of the frame. They will go back on easily after you have mounted the main fairing part after doing all the other changes. That's when you put the tank on then fire up and try a test run to see everything is working correctly. If not done in recent years replace your fuel lines. If you have a service due might as well do it before putting on the new fairing.

Thanks for the advice. Sounds difficult. Will wait for the RT to be shipped in then take it apart to see how i can do it.

The Ks come apart quite easily, just making sure you have everything is really what you have make sure of.

The fairing is a two man job simply because you need 3 hands and they are not bendy.

I have a K-100RT (8 valve) and want to convert it to an RS.  The frames appear to be the same, so it would appear to be a simple bolt on affair.

I really like the wind protection of the large RT fairing, but what I don't like is how my knees (for the last 28 years) bang into the fairing.
Anyone tried an RT to RS conversion?  If so how did it go?

Thanks!

I cannot imagine the RT to RS conversion being difficult.

But needing parts: RS bars, the RS clutch cable, RS throttle cable and RS front brake pipe from handlebar master cylinder to the steering stem connection.

There is a one tooth difference in the RS and RT final drive unit but not worth changing it. Personally I would prefer RS gearing as its higher but its only about 3% different.

Also be aware that RS mirrors and the integrated indicators are becoming scare/expensive so tether them on.

The fairings are a little awkward and unwieldy and you need a second pair of hands for the front/main fairing.

Now all I need to do is find the parts.  I fear this isn't going to be cheap.
I could remove the fairing and turn it back into a standard model...or not.

Let the search begin!

I see you have a 1990 100RS. If that's a 16v I can tell you of a dfficulty.

The 16v and the 8vRT have different fairing spiders(the main mount that bolts to the steering head. The 16v ignition switch will not clear the 8v spider and the RT fairing will not fit the 16v spider.  I tried this with my 16v.

If its an 8v RS you should have no problem as long as you have all the bits.

Al

Well spotted AL. I hadn't seen that. Pays to read the small print!

But will the 8V spider fit the 16V frame once the RT fairing comes with the spider?

Do you have to use the 8V impact pad and relocate the ignition to it?

The 8V spider is needed for the RT Fairing. The spider will fit the frame.

The switch sticks out well below the top triple clamp and will hit the spider.

If the switch/lock is removed from the triple clamp and use an 8v crash pad and switch I expect it should be OK.

I was considering cutting and reinforcing the 8v spider but ended up giving up on the idea in the end.

Al