Another question my friends, I seem to be loosing my battery charge just sitting in the carport with the maintainer hooked up,it keeps kicking up at 95% and charging.
this is with a new heavy duty battery.
Is their any kind of electrical wire or contact that continuously uses power? this is what it acts like.
the main ground is tight and dirt free covered with electrical grease. Any Sugestions?  thanks.

The clock is always drawing power. Not a lot though.

There are 3 fuses that always have power, #3 feeds the clock and the flasher unit; #4 is usually a spare unless someone added something; #5 feeds the connector for anti-theft alarm unit and a connector for special equipment. 

In addition there is an always-hot leg on 3 relays:  fuel injection, start, and load shedder.

The feed wire to the key ignition switch is another always powered circuit.

And there is a direct line from the alternator to the battery + terminal.

If you have a 10 Amp current setting on your multimeter you could pull the positive cable off the battery and measure total current draw while the bike is sitting off.  If it reads less than 0.1 A then you could measure on the 100mA setting to get a better reading.  i would guess the clock is less than 40 mA.

If it reads more than 0.1 then something is draining the battery and you can pull relays and fuses one at a time to see which affects the current.

Maybe you have a worn battery that can't hold charge anymore.  But you said it is new--did you have to add the acid?  Did you charge it up after the acid, takes 16 to 20 hours at 1A charging--a trickle charger won't cut it...

kennybob wrote:... If it reads less than 0.1 A then you could measure on the 100mA setting to get a better reading.  i would guess the clock is less than 40 mA

Actually, it will be less accurate on the mA range. You're forgetting the burden voltage. The burden voltage is the drop across the shunt resistor which by the act of inserting the dmm into the circuit can significantly reduce the actual current flowing in the circuit. The burden voltage has more significance measuring low currents in low voltage circuits.

ABS units can develop a fault that causes battery drain and they usually throw up a 7 fault code when it happens.

I have left the Ks parked for 6 weeks at a time in winter and no optimiser. Always been enough in the battery to power them up and start them on the starter. No heated grips though. The clock draw is really minimal.

I do know from other threads that diodes going bad in the alternator can cause a parasitic drain.

I have also come across a relay fault doing the same thing. The always live relays and their supplies should be checked. Probably easier to use a meter to check this one and pull relays one at a time.