Hi guys, 
I am doing a cafe racer build and have wired in some new indicators, incandescents,  and they are doing that hyper flash thing, I am guessing    the new Bulbs are a lesser wattage? To fix this I am guessing I will need to wire a resistor into each line, could someone advise what size might do the trick. Or if there is any other fix.
Thanks in advance
Phil

Hi mate I just got a flasher can specifically for LED lights rather than attach a resistor in line with all 4 lights.
Shall let you know how it goes.

Cheers Klompy

The reason for the hyper flashing depends on the type of flasher unit you are using.  If it is a thermal flasher then the reason is low resistance.  If it is an electronic flasher then the reason is high resistance.  To help you we would need to know what type of flasher you have and also what bulbs you are using.  Wattage of the bulbs would be helpful.

Also,  LED's do the need resistors to be in parallel to them to lower the resistance to stop hyper flashing with electronic flashers.  Most likely LED's would not flash at all with thermal flashers because of their high resistance if you didn't put resistors in parallel to them.

As you can see in this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YKvzwq___P4) , the resistors are being put in parallel to the leds not inline.

Cut Pin 7 to kill the hyperflash:

Details: http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/ledoemflrelay/ledoemflrelay.htm

duck wrote:Cut Pin 7 to kill the hyperflash:
Details: http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/ledoemflrelay/ledoemflrelay.htm

Drake, do you heat up and melt away the rubberised sealant on the 'black' version of the turn indicator relay or simply cut it away with a thin blade? I'm thinking of its loss of future waterproofing and don't wish to tear into it without having heard how you, and others, have opened the box sanitarily.

I just pry the flasher relay open with a small screwdriver and then pop it back together after performing the operation.

Waterproofing, really? I've never heard of anybody getting water in the K relay box, much less any flooded relays. I suppose if I cared about waterproofing I would put some RTV around the edge when reassembling.

Hi guys, my indicators are not LED, I suspect they are a lesser wattage than OEM and with less resistance are going hyper. So can I still do the snip no 7 fix?
Cheers

Best check the bulbs first. Anything between 10 and 21 watts should be okay; IIRC you can get 10, 12, 18 and 21 watt 12 volt single-filament bulbs. Here in the UK the legally-required flash rate is between 60 and 120 flashes a minute. If you've bought Chinese indicators then my best guess is that they are 4 watt bulbs, in which case I'd ask; are they really bright enough? Snipping the pin should fix the problem but I'd be looking at luminosity first. Just my 2C worth

Phil63 wrote:Hi guys, my indicators are not LED, I suspect they are a lesser wattage than OEM and with less resistance are going hyper. So can I still do the snip no 7 fix?
Cheers

Lesser wattage is higher resistance.

Phil63 wrote:Hi guys, my indicators are not LED, I suspect they are a lesser wattage than OEM and with less resistance are going hyper. So can I still do the snip no 7 fix?
Cheers

You can snip #7 for any bulb type. All it does is disable hyperflash.

On bended knee I humbly thank you for taking time from your day, sharing your learned wisdom among us and answering questions freely.

In my case, snipping #7 worked with LED indicators front and rear. A strong magnifying glass helped. The flash rate is barely changed from original, perhaps crisper is how one could describe it. No need to add the relative complexity of inline resistors either bulbs or LED with Duck's easy 'fix'.