I do, but Im in Australia....

Any Aussie want a K1100 front end?  Or alternator, elec windscreen, ABS module, centre/side stand etc

Now you have me wondering what the price for shipping would be but i'm sure it'll cost me more than the front end 

pabloooo wrote:Now you have me wondering what the price for shipping would be but i'm sure it'll cost me more than the front end 

Yeah it would be....

There are about 15 times more Yanks than Aussies - surely you can find one for sale over there. 

Beemer Boneyard for a start. Check out some of the K100/K1100 facebook groups too.

floyd wrote:I do, but Im in Australia....

Any Aussie want a K1100 front end?  Or alternator, elec windscreen, ABS module, centre/side stand etc

k1100 front end sounds good Floyd

but I'm scared to ask

good luck with the sale

I have a brand new lower triple clamp with stem but without bearings, and both left and right hand fork stanchions and legs, used, which came from and fit a K100-16V and K1100RS, by Marzocchi. At least one of the fork legs need seals and possibly the bronzish internal bushings. I do have some floating 305mm brake discs from a K1100 back in my shed in OZ, not much good to either of us 'til I go back home in October, I'm afraid. I also have a spare K11/R11 20mm master cylinder with brake lever and brake light switch. I don't currently have the rest of the required bits, though I add to my collection regularly.

If you don't locate a fork set up as an assembly and you're forced to piece it together then PM me and possibly we can make a deal.

Two Wheels Better wrote:I have a brand new lower triple clamp with stem but without bearings, and both left and right hand fork stanchions and legs, used, which came from and fit a K100-16V and K1100RS, by Marzocchi. At least one of the fork legs need seals and possibly the bronzish internal bushings. I do have some floating 305mm brake discs from a K1100 back in my shed in OZ, not much good to either of us 'til I go back home in October, I'm afraid. I also have a spare K11/R11 20mm master cylinder with brake lever and brake light switch. I don't currently have the rest of the required bits, though I add to my collection regularly.

If you don't locate a fork set up as an assembly and you're forced to piece it together then PM me and possibly we can make a deal.

 
I will definitely be contacting you if I can't find a whole assembly. I'm also sure shipping will be a bit of a hassle so heres to hoping I find something here in the states. 

Many Thanks!

I made this conversion recently and I highly recommend it.  Admittedly, chasing down all the parts was a pain.  I bought a complete K1100 fork set: triple trees, bearings, fork brace, and axle from these guys:

https://www.boonstraparts.com/en/home

Unfortunately I don't see any on their website currently....But their inventory seems to turn frequently.  So maybe some will come available soon.

I was unsuccessful in finding anyone with a set in the US for a reasonable price.  Though I was impatient and only shopped for it for about a month.  The best I found in the US was about $800 (that's without wheel, discs, calipers).  But, even with shipping from Europe, the price was under $300 USD (and about half that was shipping cost). The shipping (DHL) was very slow.  When the forks didn't arrive, and appeared to be lost by DHL or in customs, they refunded me the full price without complaint.  When they arrived 2 weeks later, which was surprising to both them and me, I naturally paid them immediately.  In short, they seemed like good, honest folks.  They followed up diligently with DHL when the package was missing.  Very pleasant to deal with.  

Best of luck!

Figured I would bump up my WTB Thread as I am still in the market for a front end. Have yet to find one on fleabay or salvage places. Everytime i've found one on craigslist for parts it's always some place quite a bit away and the owner won't even consider shipping(understandable as i'm sure they're only being careful).

I have what you are looking for! The master cylinder is a bit rough but the rest is in good shape, send me a PM to make arrangements.

If you're just using the 16V Marzoc forks without the Paralever final drive, swingarm, shockie and gearbox you're in for a fun ride in the twisties! Your bike wil be 50mm shorter in the wheelbase. It might even turn in like a newer Ducati or modern Japanese bike. Some who've wished to use the only slightly better performing Marzoc forks have kept the same (K75, K100) steering geometry by enlarging the earlier triple clamps to match the diametre of the Marzoc fork tubes.

That said, I still have the Marzoc fork legs and lower triple clamp with centre stem in my parts shed.

There's two different lengths of 75/100 forks. If memory serves, the shorter ones are about the same length as the 4V forks so the geometry stays about the same.

My K75 Frankenbrick has a 4V font end and handles swimmingly.

My initial reason for doing this was just to get the much better 4V front brakes and the improved front suspension turned out to be an unintended consequence.

I have a 93 K1100RS that I've decided to part out so the front end from that will soon end up on either the K75 turbo or my K100. Decisions, decisions . . .

pabloooo wrote:Looking to make the front end conversion of a k1100 on my K100. 


I'm in need of:


Forks
Triple-trees
Rotor
Calipers


If anybody has these items, please let me know! 


Thanks!

check on fleabay .com or fleabay .de as there are heaps for sale you should be able to pick em up cheap in the states as thats where i bought mine from wisconsin and i live in australia  " search and ye shall find " cheers

floyd wrote:I do, but Im in Australia....

Any Aussie want a K1100 front end?  Or alternator, elec windscreen, ABS module, centre/side stand etc

ECU #1464479

       #1464417

 to suit k100 rs 16v 1990   no yes and how many $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$   

hi floyd just trolling for parts for project bike  have most electricals and  mechanicals   cheers steve

Woodcutter, here's a tip: Go to www.realoem.com, enter the site, find the part number application search, type in the last seven digits of the BMW part number (all BMW OEM part numbers are 11 digits long, but the last 7 are the essential numbers), hit enter and the models that part number was catalogued for will appear, if the number's any good, that is. You'll also see the supersession, forward and backwards. Click them to see where it takes you. Keep in mind that BMW will often supersede a part number and dead end it, so you won't always be able to see what it fit once upon a time. Trying 1 464 417 (but don't use spaces in realoem's search) shows that it interchanges with 1 464 479 and others. The entire BMW part number sequence appears. It shows that it'd work with any 16V K100 or 'early' K1100 that used Motronic 2.1 - caveat: there will be variations in mixture adjustment bewteen ECUs such as whether it used a manual dashpot to adjust, if it was a catalyst version, etc. The catalogue will spell that out (often in German, but it's decipherable) when you click on the part number and open it to have a squiz.

Late '93 K11 used Motronic 2.2. Steer clear of that ECU unless you have the appropriate engine loom. Keep in mind that even though the catalogue shows the part number continues forward to a certain year, open that catalogue by clicking on the blue-coloured link to see if there's a production split before you plonk your dosh down on an item.

Two Wheels Better wrote:Woodcutter, here's a tip: Go to www.realoem.com, enter the site, find the part number application search, type in the last seven digits of the BMW part number (all BMW OEM part numbers are 11 digits long, but the last 7 are the essential numbers), hit enter and the models that part number was catalogued for will appear, if the number's any good, that is. You'll also see the supersession, forward and backwards. Click them to see where it takes you. Keep in mind that BMW will often supersede a part number and dead end it, so you won't always be able to see what it fit once upon a time. Trying 1 464 417 (but don't use spaces in realoem's search) shows that it interchanges with 1 464 479 and others. The entire BMW part number sequence appears. It shows that it'd work with any 16V K100 or 'early' K1100 that used Motronic 2.1 - caveat: there will be variations in mixture adjustment bewteen ECUs such as whether it used a manual dashpot to adjust, if it was a catalyst version, etc. The catalogue will spell that out (often in German, but it's decipherable) when you click on the part number and open it to have a squiz.

Late '93 K11 used Motronic 2.2. Steer clear of that ECU unless you have the appropriate engine loom. Keep in mind that even though the catalogue shows the part number continues forward to a certain year, open that catalogue by clicking on the blue-coloured link to see if there's a production split before you plonk your dosh down on an item.

thanks for the thumbs up TWB the main loom i have is from a k100rs 16v 1990 from james sherlock's in the uk [ and as he imports a lot of bemers from japan i presume its a japanese model], and the engine  [ injection loom ] is from a uk k100rs 16v 1990  so that should match and i have the ignition control [ switching ] unit from a german 1990 k100 16v , and ditto for the coils, as far as i know there are no cats in the system  lol and the motor i got from halo has been confirmed as a 38th week of 1990 build [ 12th of september 1990 so i will be replacing rear main seal alternator seal clutch pressure plate , face plate ]  spring, and friction plate . The one i took out measured 5.24mm,thick and was down to the rivets almost ,and the other 2 plates were chamfered from the outside edge to the centre and had daylight showing when a straightedge was laid across them for more than 70% of the face of each plate yeah i wont be jumping in to buy an ecu just yet will see what that one is you have in yur lock up in brissie when you get back  , but will concentrate on getting the motor back together and the frame and wheels back on [ i'm using complete k1100 rs front end , forks,brakes, wheels , 3.5"x17" front 4.5"x18" rear and also have a mint k1200rs 5"x17" rear to play with lol ]  ****oh what i would like to know is the main loom has the large multi plug for the ABS. now 1/ do i just leave it as is  and remove the 2 abs relays from relay box or 2/ carefully unwrap the loom and remove all the wires associated with the abs right back to the relays and remove them and re tape the loom back up ???????? electrics are not my forte  your advise is much sought after     cheers and best regards steve aka woodcutter

Two Wheels Better wrote:I have a brand new lower triple clamp with stem but without bearings, and both left and right hand fork stanchions and legs, used, which came from and fit a K100-16V and K1100RS, by Marzocchi. At least one of the fork legs need seals and possibly the bronzish internal bushings. I do have some floating 305mm brake discs from a K1100 back in my shed in OZ, not much good to either of us 'til I go back home in October, I'm afraid. I also have a spare K11/R11 20mm master cylinder with brake lever and brake light switch. I don't currently have the rest of the required bits, though I add to my collection regularly.

If you don't locate a fork set up as an assembly and you're forced to piece it together then PM me and possibly we can make a deal.

Hey TWB I am interested in the front M/C and brake lever but must be cosmetically perfect for a K1 resto I'm have my teeth stuck into at the moment. 
Also looking for the fuel and temp gauges and a tidy exhaust from a K1004V or 1100 RS/RT. Again, must have no scratches or dings and the welds still good.
Can collect Sydney or Melbourne