Hi everyone
Does anyone know which grease do I use for the roller bearings in the clutch arm at the rear of the gearbox?

Regards
Gabriel

Just use some moly as you would on your drive shaft splines, it's not a high speed bearing that one but is prone to water attack.

Thanks for your reply.
I have another question. I am unable to source Never Seez for the swing arm pivots. Any suggestions?

Regards
Gabriel

I don't believe NevrSeize is needed there.  I use whatever happens to be loaded in the grease gun.

brickrider wrote:I don't believe NevrSeize is needed there.  I use whatever happens to be loaded in the grease gun.

So do I, but my grease gun is always loaded with marine grease, which deals with water contact better.

Bill

Are we talking about the roller beneath the rubber boot?
I have never greased mine as the boot holds the oil in that lubricates the bearing.
Or am I wrong?

Or am I wrong?
Yes you are wrong He He

Its the pivot bearings on the actuating arm.
As Paul said a water resistant grease for marine use or what is called cannery grease which is a high moly content and high heat and water resistant, It's usually white similar looking to the Honda moly paste used on the splines.
Called cannery grease because it's primary use is for greasing the cookers in cannerys which are a steam bath for cooking the canned product.

Ok, now are we talking about part number 8?

Or part number 2?

No 8 It's a pair of tiny roller bearings. I think Sidecar Paul put a grease nipple in the arm so it can be greased easily.
I seem to remember someone else making some nylon bushes in place of the bearings and a stainless pin.
I cant figure why BMW would put a roller bearing there without any seal but it does serve to keep the mechanics amused.

I tapped a grease fitting in there (I was going to say "nipple", but you lot would only start giggling like idiots...) and shoot some wheel bearing grease in there every now and then.

I said nipple and I cant hear any of the idiots people here giggling

RicK G wrote:I said nipple and I cant hear any of the idiots people here giggling

You know New South Welshmen don't listen to Queenslanders!

RicK G wrote:No 8 It's a pair of tiny roller bearings. I think Sidecar Paul put a grease nipple in the arm so it can be greased easily.
I seem to remember someone else making some nylon bushes in place of the bearings and a stainless pin.
I cant figure why BMW would put a roller bearing there without any seal but it does serve to keep the mechanics amused.

No Rick, I bored out the operating arm and fitted a PTFE long bush with O ring seals at each end, all running on a 10mm stainless steel pin.

It's buried in a post about 'removing stubborn needle bearings' from a few years ago.



I don't need a grease nipple. :geek:

Paul.

Thank you for your replies.
I was referring to the swinging arm bearings.

Regards
Gabriel

The grease I use there is the same moly grease I use on the shaft and I usually put plenty in there so it forms a bit of a protective shield of grease round the bearing where it's exposed to the elements. All the bearings in that area lead a hard life what with water. salt, sand and the occasional rock.

Isnt it a good idea to put a mudflap in front of the rear wheel to stop crud etc being thrown in there in the 1st place? That's what I do an all my bikes.

Yes, they eventually got round to it with the K1100.

Having dealt with more than my fair share of Ks, I long ago reached the conclusion that those needle bearings on the clutch arm pivot rod really aren't needed.  More often than not, when I deal with a used K tranny those bearings have long since seized up to the point where that rod is frozen in place and I need to pound the the pivot rod out with a nail set and small sledge hammer. Why those little needle bearings don't matter is that once that rod has seized up the clutch arm still rotates freely on the "exposed" parts of the rod. That said, whenever I do a spline lube I do pull the rod and put some fresh marine bearing grease in there on the theory that it can't hurt.

Anyone in Oz done the teflon liner mod?

Looks like Munich Motorcycles have one they sell, but it looks like you need to buy 2 (in the pic it looks like the same length as the needle bearings) and they are $30 each! Damn!

Wonder if bearing shops would stock something suitable? Would the dimensions be identical to the roller bearings?

http://www2.munichmotorcycles.com.au/product_info.php?products_id=732

I thought I would resurrect this old thread rather than start a new one, as this one is relevant. 
 I have just snapped another clutch cable after only two years. The first two lasted over five years each, so I figure that I may as well look at what could be causing extra wear on the cables.
 I have removed the actuating arm. Can anyone tell me if the bearings are able to be pressed out? I tried to punch one side out, but have been left with the outside shell still in the hole. I don't want to put it in the press if they are in recesses in the end of the hole and will just crush. The parts dia shows no spacer in the middle, but then the parts dia shows only one bearing and circlip, so I am not sure if they are different for different models. Mine is 1993 K75s.
 Also, the lever (Handle bar end, with the cable removed) seems to have a lot of play up and down. Has anyone replaced the bush in this before?

AFAIK thet just press in till they are level with the end of the hole and they are the same from start to end of production.
Having a floppy lever can make the inner bind in the lever perch and that makes them break and you need to lubricate the barrel at the top nipple or it wont turn and breaks the cable right at the barrel.