BMW K bikes (Bricks)


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Point-Seven-five


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As Woodie says, around here temperatures go below freezing for about 4 months and we get up to 10 feet of snow each winter.  Back in a younger day I rode all year, but it was on a 125cc that weighed about 180 pounds and had about 300 sheet metal screws in each tire.  I don't think road ice would be very kind to something as big and heavy as a K bike.

    

warmas

warmas
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Posted in wrong thread.



Last edited by warmas on Tue Dec 04, 2018 10:21 am; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : posted in wrong thread.)

    

warmas

warmas
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I agree appearances do not matter: beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
I think the blue paint on the throttle sync fastener is to indicate it has been synced and whether it has been tampered.
I presume if throttle bore pressures match the datum at various valve openings and rpm, they are well enough matched for me.
The engine sounds and vibrates smoothly, like the cylinders make equal power, which I think the object of the game. I am frequently wrong.

ATF seems heavy enough to preclude extreme manometer imbalance sensitivity and displacement , is cheap, visible, and after I inadvertently sucked a few tablespoons of it through the datum, I think the engine is none the worse.

Tire pressure 40 front, 38 rear. Bearings and brakes do not appreciably drag. No bags. Interesting lack of bags decreased mileage. Top speed and stop-go technique have large impact on fuel consumption, and I am guilty at times of driving it like a teenager with too much testosterone.

Here in Oklahoma I have seen 75F on Christmas day. I plan to ride this thing all winter.

    

brickrider2

brickrider2
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I find my bikes feel better when the front tire pressure is a few pound less than what's in the rear tire. Typically the differential is around 3-4 lbs.


__________________________________________________
1996 K1100LT
    

92KK 84WW Olaf

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I use 38 front and 42 rear for solo riding. That's after many years of finding what is for me a perfect balance. Bridgestone Battlax BT45 front and rear.


__________________________________________________
1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red 578 bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 689 58,645 now 106,950 miles Deceased.
1983 K100RS 0011157 Fricka 606 Alaska Blue 29,495 miles Damn K Pox Its a Bat outta Hell Now 58,200 miles. 
1996 K1100LT 0233004 Lohengrin Mystic Red 38,000 miles currently 51,800 miles.
1983 K100RS 0004449 Odette R100 colours 58,000 miles. Sprint fairing now 63,390 miles

Past:
1968 Yamaha 80 YG1
1971 Yamaha 125 YAS-1
1968 Honda 125 SS
1970 Honda CD 175
1973 Honda CB500-4
Honda CX 500
    

Point-Seven-five

Point-Seven-five
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Set your tire pressures to 38 front 42 rear.


__________________________________________________
Present: 1991 K100RS "Moby Brick Too"
 
Past:
1994 K75RT "Ilsa, She Wolf of the SS"
1988 K100RS SE "Special Ed"
1994 K75S "Cheetos"
1992 K100RS "Moby Brick" R.I.P.
1982 Honda FT500
1979 Honda XR185
1977 Honda XL125
1974 Honda XL125
1972 OSSA Pioneer 250
1968 Kawasaki 175
    

warmas

warmas
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Thanks for the tips re: tire pressure.
I will try them.

While fiddling again with the idle speed, I had an idea.
My green starter button is missing the spring and top hat portion of the button.
It has not seemed to be a problem, but the switch does randomly close while the bike is running due to vibration, bumps in the road, and jolts of that sort. The button does enrich the mixture when the engine is running, at idle the button increases rpm, at 3k rpm it decreases rpm, presumably because of too rich mixture. While riding the bike the change in mixture\rpm is not noticeable to me, but I believe it nevertheless occurs. I think the random closures of the starter button switch which enrich the mixture has caused my sub-par fuel mileage. I of course can be wrong, but I am going to pursue this cause.

So I need to fabricate a proper starter button. The archives here have a few fixes, tomorrow I will try them.

    

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