Hi everyone!
    I'm trying to sort out the electrics on my 1985 K100rs. The current (ha) issue is a voltage leak. I've been narrowing down the location of the problem and have settled on the flasher relay. When the flasher relay is connected I have a voltage leak. When I disconnect it, I don't. Seems pretty definitive, right? Is there anything I could be missing? What makes me wonder if I'm misdiagnosing this is that the turn signals are working perfectly.
   Could the relay be bad in such a way that the turn signals work, but I have a short to ground somewhere? Could something else be going on that's tricking me into being suspicious of a good relay?

  Thanks!
   -Jon

Follow up question:
   I checked the amperage of the leak and found that's it's 4 milliamps. Is this even something I should care about, or should I ignore it?

Hi Jon

Your avatar shows a K100RS which is pretty much unmolested.  So I assume everything is pretty much stock except for some creative tank plug wiring performed by a previous owner.

Where and how are you measuring your current leak?  The result of an unexpected current leakage is to have the battery run down after only a few days.  The normal way to measure this leakage is to use a current meter in series with the battery positive and to disconnect all the fuses to find the residual current draw.  Then, one at a time, add fuse back to the panel and observe any unexpected increase in current.

You're measuring 4mA which might be the draw from the clock and the draw from what you ar assuming to be a problem in the flasher relay.  Both are connected through Fuse 3.  Try removing the connector from the back of the cluster (instead of the flasher relay) to see if there is still residual current drawn.  If yes, then the flasher could be the culprit.  If not, then what you're seeing is the current drawn by the clock.

One plague some current leakage source can be a failing ABS relay, but you don't have one.

Jon, I just removed the flasher relay from my bike (85 K100RT)...I did this as part of fitting non-bmw switches and no longer needed the cancellation function.  

To the best of my knowledge it was working when removed, and I assume its the same part as your bike.  If you'd like to give it a try (or if you diagnose it as the problem), I could send it to you.  Shoot me a private message if you are interested.

As an aside, I see you are in Boulder, Co.  I went to college at CU, graduated class of '94.  Good times (and I even learned a thing or two).  Best, Justin.