Mine is an 85 K100rt. What year clusters other than the 85 will work?

62 11 1 459 927 fits (mph) up to 4/85. 62 11 2 305 252 fits (mph) from 5/85 on. It's the split plug or the solid plug there. The 2nd low fuel warning is also incompatible with later '80s K75/K100, tho' you only need scour the forum for the many instrument cluster threads to sift for the answer to your request. K1100 and '90s K bikes with ABS differ.

83, 84 and 85.  But you won't find an 83 or 84 K100 in the US unless it was purchased in another country and then imported here since BMW didn't sell K100s in the US until 85.

Mine does have a yellow light for 7l and a red one for 4l low fuel...

SniperX wrote:Mine does have a yellow light for 7l and a red one for 4l low fuel...

That's the 'old' type as in the early cluster, 83/84/early85 one. If you are buying a used cluster make sure to get the one with both fuel lights and you will be ok.

So if I find a cluster with both low fuel lights it'll work?

SniperX wrote:So if I find a cluster with both low fuel lights it'll work?

Yes.

Ok , time to start looming for one. Mine works, but the face is so warped the speed needle flew off and the lcd for the gear indicator is fried.

A few FYIs:

You can replace face plates and the gear LCD as parts without having to replace the whole cluster.

If you end up buying a complete cluster it is possible to reset the main odometer to whatever miles you want.

An addendum to Duck's comment: some odometer drives you can dismantle and others you can't. IME if the odometer has a small white plastic screw on the same side as the gears then the spindle holding the white ratchets will slide out and leave you with a pile of discs and ratchets to reassemble. Good luck with that

On a more sensible note ; if you do have one of those then sliding the spindle out just far enough to release it from one side will give you access enough to lift the ratchets away from the dials and to be able to rotate the dials. Once you have the required number sequence, put a small piece of tape across the drum to hold them all in line while you reassemble the ratchets.

The other type has no white plastic screw and both ends of the spindle crimped flat so that you can't slide it out. Forget filing it; it seems to be case-hardened. However, there's enough flexibility in the system to allow you to get a small screwdriver in there and lever the ratchets away from the dials so that you can move the numerical discs. Odd as it sounds, this type is actually the easiest one to change the mileage on because everything stays in place.

I've had to replace the odometer/speedometer twice on LFB, both times because it just quit working. There was no way was I going to lose the accumulated mileage.

If you are looking for a new instrument cluster, check the pins on the back, early models had flat pins the later versions are rounded.

You don't need to take the odometer apart to change the reading. If you carefully push the number wheels apart one at a time you can turn them. When I finished my K75 Frankenbrick I changed the odometer to read 750,000 miles without disassembly just for the hell of it.

duck wrote:You don't need to take the odometer apart to change the reading.  If you carefully push the number wheels apart one at a time you can turn them. When I finished my K75 Frankenbrick I changed the odometer to read 750,000 miles without disassembly just for the hell of it.

Thanks for the information, I want to change my cluster and was wondering how to match the readings.

This looks just like mine so it should work.