Hello all,

I have to replace both my handlebar switches and as a result, need to remove the petrol tank to do so. Do I need to remove the entire fairing to get the tank off? If not walk me thru what I need to remove. Looks like the fairing inners and everything on the inside of the fairing like the pockets and such. BTW got new switches for 130 each OEM bits so am chuffed at that! Going to be nice having all my switches working and new.

85RT?

No you don't need to remove the fairing.

1. Remove the 2 storage boxes, screws are inside it, 2 at the front, 2 in side and 1 each side beside the latch, seen from above. The ones either side of the latch may or may not come but will unscrew. Turn handlebars to opposite lock to make sure you can lift the parts free.
2. The leg lining at your toes has a single screw....remove this. You kind of have to look up from underneath.
3. The leg lining and storage box may come out together with those two screws at the latch still in place. Lift the rear of the storage box and it will come clear. With the bars on opposite lock it will come out.
4. On each side you will see the box has exposed a black metal frame. Should be 4 screws in this, Remove these and remove the frames.
5. After you lift out the storage box frames you will see or should see a horizontal filler piece/baffle with some screws into the fairing where the lower and upper fairing meet, one left one right. Remove these.
6. On left side there is also a baffle against the airbox, it has 2 screws. Remove this too.

The fairing lower panels are next to be removed. BUT...... with a little tweaking its not necessary to remove them to get the tank off.! If you do as the last paragraph you wont need the fairing lowers off next time you have to remove the tank.

7. Left side has two screws at the front, into the radiator surround, facing toward the centre of the forks. Remove these. Right hand one has two screws also, top one is at the corner of the radiator panel, bottom one is accessed from underneath so you must look from underneath the corner as its easily missed. The fairing lowers have tabs that go into the radiator panel for these screws.
8. On each of the fairing lowers you will see where there are brackets onto the engine and 10mm nuts on the fairing to bracket connection. Remove the 10mm nuts.
9. From above looking down on the fairing to lower panel joining there should be more screws, 2 or 3.
10. As you do 8 and 9 you will feel the lower panels loosen, not heavy but mind them and have somewhere soft to lay them.  Take them by the rear and move it out as you withdraw the tabs from behind the radiator panel.

If you can disconnect the fuel lines at the front of the tank, also disconnect the electrical plug, it can be done through the left lower panel but only if the screw pipe clamps are correctly aligned to access them through the ventilation slots. If so there is no need to remove the left lower panel next time you need to remove the fuel tank, a helpful matter in a breakdown. However if the bike is new to you replace the fuel lines as they perish with slightly longer.....  You will need right hand fairing lower and the bottom of the air box off to access the connector onto the FPR Fuel Pressure Regulator. Again, aligning the pipe connector smartly will allow a screwdriver to slip between the airbox and electrical box to access it next time.

When I need to get the tank of I start by removing the saddle and the inner left fairing part. Then I remove the two clips that holds the back pegs of the tank to the frame. Then I lift the rear of the tank slightly and slide it rearwards. Detach the fuel lines, slide the tank further rearwards and lift it of. I can do it this way because I have fittet 5 cm longer fuel lines.
This way its a nobrainer to remove the tank.

When putting the tank back on you must be carefull to hold the front very low allmost like sliding it forward on the frame till the two front eyes grabs the frame rubber grommets in the front. If you hold the tank to high you will scratch the paint of the tank against the metal part (don't know the english name) that holds the lower fairing parts - don't ask me how I know

Hello!

Look at this video, this Danish guy removes the tank.
BMW K75 change airfilter and how to remove the tank



Cheers

jkh wrote:When I need to get the tank of I start by removing the saddle and the inner left fairing part. Then I remove the two clips that holds the back pegs of the tank to the frame. Then I lift the rear of the tank slightly and slide it rearwards. Detach the fuel lines, slide the tank further rearwards and lift it of. I can do it this way because I have fittet 5 cm longer fuel lines.
This way its a nobrainer to remove the tank.

When putting the tank back on you must be carefull to hold the front very low allmost like sliding it forward on the frame till the two front eyes grabs the frame rubber grommets in the front. If you hold the tank to high you will scratch the paint of the tank against the metal part (don't know the english name) that holds the lower fairing parts - don't ask me how I know

That's the metal frame that's there after you remove the storage boxes. And yes it will scratch the tank.....best to remove them first time round. On my LT I was able to slide the tank backwards between both of the metal frames. Not sure why.......they have a sharp edge but you can put a soft material on them to allow the tank to slide against them....

I mentioned 85RT as its in your signature, it may have the tank held down by a single bolt at the rear of the tank, visible when you open the seat. In this case the electrical plug will be up at the front left side of the tank.

However if its late 85 or later then you can try to lift the rear of the tank......many don't put these clips back. If you have the clips its fiddly to get them off. On these tanks the electrical connection is at the rear right of the tank but the fuel lines are front left.

Word of caution. The front fuel line from the injector rail is a return line and is likely to p**s fuel out when you remove the fuel pipe. Its 8mm internal duameter to stuff someting into it. Also, have a nice soft place to lay the tank on its right side. Be careful handling the fuel lines so you don't break the connectors off the tank.

Sniper,

Pretty much as Olaf says. I guess we all do it slightly differently. 

How much fairing needs to come off really depends on what job you are doing, in this case you are just taking the tank off to get to the electrics. When I do this, I only remove both knee pads, both storage boxes, both black plastic baffles and just the lower left fairing panel. You can then access the fuel supply and return hose jubilee clips. If you lengthen both these hoses so that you can get to the jubilee clips through the left lower fairing vents, as both Olaf and jkh suggest, then I guess, you won't need to remove the left hand fairing either, next time around. I don't remove the storage box mounting frames, on my LTs, there is enough clearance to remove the tank with them in place - perhaps this is different for the RT.

I have found that, by leaving the right lower panel in place, it both saves work and holds the radiator fairing in place which makes realignment with the lower left panel securing screws much easier when rebuilding the fairing on completion of the job.

Removing the tank is then pretty straightforward, as jkh says but I find that don't need to remove the seat to achieve it, just lift the seat (as all decent gentlemen do!), pull off both side panels, remove the circlips securing the back of the tank to the frame (f they haven't gone awol already), unplug the fuel pump connector and lift the rear of the tank a little so that the lugs clear the frame. Then just slide the fuel tank backward and place it down somewhere safe and secure.

Good luck with changing those handlebar switches and don't forget all those "while I'm in there" jobs while the tank is off (like earth connections and cleaning up other electrical plugs, sockets and contacts. Worth giving your radiator cap a bit of a check & clean too and check the coolant level).

If you are changing handlebar switches I suggest do them one at a time. There is scope for non starting after and best to check each one as you go along to ensure everything is working, including starting and running. Some connections look similar but are not and can get mixed up.

Chocolate wrote:Hello!

Look at this video, this Danish guy removes the tank.
BMW K75 change airfilter and how to remove the tank

His not danish - he is dutch. No offence ment but danes usually speak english with just a bit less accent

jkh wrote:

Chocolate wrote:Hello!

Look at this video, this Danish guy removes the tank.
BMW K75 change airfilter and how to remove the tank

His not danish - he is dutch. No offence ment but danes usually speak english with just a bit less accent

Good to know :-) that's why he is using two barbecue grills :-)

Cheers

I got the tank off really easy thanks to all the replies! I did have to pull the fuel pipe from the rail instead of the tank due to it's AGE so will replace that bit as well. Again, CHEERS to ALL who helped me. Made it a very enjoyable task and the tank will go back on after I replace the switches, and fuel pipes and whilst off, it will get a new fuel pump, packing, and all other related bits for the fuel system in or on the tank. I also replaced both handlebar switches which is why I removed the tank, well at least one reason.

tank.
After cleaning

When I reassemble the bike, do I have to do anything special because it is fuel injected? Or, do I just put it back together and turn the key on wait a few seconds and start it?

Turn it on and hit the button. It may splutter for a few seconds as the line pressurises but then it should fire clean.

Good job on the switches.

Like Dai says, button her back up, press the start and you should be in business. If there is much starter activity but no start (and no fuel pump whine), slap your forehead and reconnect the fuel pump plug! Been there! Done that!!

Born Again Eccentric wrote:Good job on the switches.

Like Dai says, button her back up, press the start and you should be in business. If there is much starter activity but no start (and no fuel pump whine), slap your forehead and reconnect the fuel pump plug! Been there! Done that!!

Funny because when I unplugged it, I thought to myself DON'T forget to reconnect that! Sounds like something I'll do....