Hello all.

Im starting this thread to document my conversion of a 1984 k100rt to a more dual-sport/street tracker. Something that would be equally capable on dirt as on pavement.

I have been a avid reader of ADVRider forums for some time. But only recently have I had capital $$ to actually take the steps to do it. Travelling has been one of my huge "bucket list" items and I want to do this on two wheels. 

Currently I live up in Norther California/Nevada where dirt trails are EVERYWHERE. That being said I have a goal to travel from San Jose CA to Canada via the Pacific Coast Highway or Hwy 1. 


PICTURES:


(SINCE Photobucket is constantly down- I am linking my albums over Google Drive. Please let me know if you have any issues)

When I first found her and put a down payment:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9BeUFROTTlNMzB6TlU&usp=sharing

When I got her home:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9BebGZ2bk4xMm5hRUE&usp=sharing

Tank off and other pictures of buttons etc. :
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9BeTUNsQXdpUVFlRTg&usp=sharing

Also I started to notice leaks and things like that, that still need to be sorted out.
Currently my goal is to just get her running. No Leaks what-so-ever.

Tank Tear-Down:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9BeZ19JMXdFQVl1b0k&usp=sharing

All the rubbers have become rock-hard and are not movable. It was such a PIA to get those tubes out. They would crack and more debris would be in the tank   Also you can see the fuel screen needs to be replaced. 


Bold is ordered.
GREEN is completed.
RED is Ordered or Acquired
BLUE is IN-PROCESS

To Do list: REPLACE ALL FLUIDS:

• Brake (Front/Back)
  
  
• Coolant
  
  
• Engine Oil
  
  
• Transmission Oil
  
  
• Final Drive Oil
  
• Fork Oil
  

REPLACE ALL RUBBERS:

• Tires
  
• Fuel Lines
  
• Crankcase breather hose
  
• Fuel Pump Surround/Screen
  
• Coolant Hoses
  

GENERAL MAINTENANCE + REPLACE:

• Air Filter
  
  
  
• Fuel Filter
  
  
  
• Oil Filter
  
  
• Spark Plugs
  
• Brakes
  
• Coolant/Oil Pump Rebuild
  
• Check Valve Clearances
  
• Spline Lube
  

FIND & FIX LEAKS:

• Coolant Sensor (Traced to corrosion on Coolant Line inserts)
  
• Oil on pan
  
• Output Shaft?
  

UPGRADES:

• K75 Pistons + Timing Chain + Gaskets
  
• Clean (Top of engine, bottom of engine)
  
• Paint
  
• Smaller Battery
  
• New Seat
  
• Turn Signals
  
• Headlight mount
  
• Gauges
  
• Handlebars (Nighthawk/ Daytona)
  

I have since run into an issue trying to replace/refurbish my Water/Oil Pump...

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3obtViHR9BeeWtmeE5GQkZOa2M&usp=sharing


As you can see the pump was starting to rust. Not in that great of shape. 
The Allen bolts are pretty fudged up too. Lots of dirt/rust in the threads.

The coolant was still green but apparently it had issues...

I hope that the rust isn't happening in other parts of the engine?? 

Problem:

I was able to get the NUT off of the water pump shaft. However I cannot seem to separate them or remove it. It is stuck on the shaft... What the hell.

I have soaked it in penetrating oil... but any other tips?

Id prefer not to drop $400 on a damn pump.


Thanks 

Great project bike and it looks pretty good (dust aside !) 

Do yourself a favour and invest in Metal (not plastic) quick release couplings for the fuel lines. Makes taking the tank off a cinch for easy and quick access.

all of what you tate will need to be done. Given the climate you are in I would also be taking off the gearbox to do the clutch spline lube, replace the crankshaft O ring, clutch pushrod boot/seal and regrease the swingarm bearings on the way out. 

My twopence worth!!

Good luck with it. 

88KE wrote:Great project bike and it looks pretty good (dust aside !) 

Do yourself a favour and invest in Metal (not plastic) quick release couplings for the fuel lines. Makes taking the tank off a cinch for easy and quick access.

all of what you tate will need to be done. Given the climate you are in I would also be taking off the gearbox to do the clutch spline lube, replace the crankshaft O ring, clutch pushrod boot/seal and regrease the swingarm bearings on the way out. 

My twopence worth!!

Good luck with it. 

Metal Quick Couplings? interesting. Should I add a shut-off valve too? 



As far as taking off the gearbox and doing:

Spline Lube
Whatever is leaking (some seal)
Clutch push-rod
re-grease swing-arm bearings
clutch nut o-ring


The dealer quoted me $600 for the first 2. 

What kind of equipment do I need as in lifts, tools, etc? Do I need "special" BMW tools?

I have manuals but I am unsure where to identify these parts...


hmm

jjs1234 wrote: Metal Quick Couplings? interesting. Should I add a shut-off valve too? 

It's usually a valve integrated in the quick coupling, at least the female one.

Started dissecting the water pump further after I got that bike off.

Do I need that spring?

Take a look it really nasty and bad...

https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B3obtViHR9BeUHJsejJRQTdmUHM/edit
It's updated live...

I forgot to add, since I can't edit this on a smartphone... Should I repair this or just buy a whole new unit?

It can be repaired, you can get a kit for them. DON'T use the shaft with the big gear, you were very lucky the nut came off they usually snap and the threaded part stays with the nut. I would say you have far less than a 1% chance of not breaking the shaft while putting the nut back on.  I don't know of anybody doing a rebuild  that has successfully used the shaft again. The shaft is only available with the gear but you may find someone who will make a shaft. The shaft is expensive but so is a new pump.

added some more photos...

What's the torque spec of the old shaft?

15ft/lb

RicK G wrote:It can be repaired, you can get a kit for them. DON'T use the shaft with the big gear, you were very lucky the nut came off they usually snap and the threaded part stays with the nut. I would say you have far less than a 1% chance of not breaking the shaft while putting the nut back on.  I don't know of anybody doing a rebuild  that has successfully used the shaft again. The shaft is only available with the gear but you may find someone who will make a shaft. The shaft is expensive but so is a new pump.

Hence the advice of all to just go get the lot to start with. This is so well known......In my case I found it was cheaper to buy the whole lot together.

In this picture (here ) the shaft looks okay for a seal? I thought it might be too damaged. I mean it looks okay but I dont know how pristine these things need to be to work.

The old crap (here ) was pretty bad.

Also I think that corrosion or something from the coolant created this mess here and here. It looks as if it leaked because of that? What is that corrosion? I have never seen coolant do that before...

Think it was because it was sitting so long? That and the coolant wasn't changed...

As it stands I am replacing the hoses and the pump insides. 


This must be the return valve? For the fuel, does it need to be replaced with the fuel lines/system?

That must be the crank breather hose to the right of that picture (the hose is removed in the pic).


All in all the top of the engine with all that grime looks way better than it did before!! The hoses are complete! 

Thats one down!

I dont have a trained eye, but does everything else look okay?


Full album of yesterday... here

jjs1234 wrote:This must be the return valve?

Nope - that's the idle advance vacuum switch (!!!). On the early Ks BMW experimented with two advance curves, one of which cut in when the vacuum switch made contact at tickover or below. It was a good idea that didn't really pay benefits and they dropped it pretty quickly. For you, that means unscrewing the vacuum switch and showing it to the nearest roundtoit. If you look at the no.1 throttle body you'll find the end of the vacuum tube and a small rubber 'protection cap' next to it; use the same type of protection cap to blank off the vacuum tube

(item 17 here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0501-EUR-04-1983-K589-BMW-K_100_83_0501,0511_&diagId=13_0515. It's a lousy picture but hopefully you'll understand which part I mean)

The violet/yellow wire can be cut off flush at the nearest connector.

That is the body of the pump not a shaft, however the seal would seal there.  The brown crud is oil and coolant because the oil pump seal has failed and the breather hole was blocked so the oil goes into the coolant.
The engine breather is on the left just out of the picture near the small coil spring that protects the vacuum hose. The breather connects to the plennum above the throttle bodies with a Z shaped rubber hose, about 1/2in ID.

Dai wrote:

jjs1234 wrote:This must be the return valve?

Nope - that's the idle advance vacuum switch (!!!). On the early Ks BMW experimented with two advance curves, one of which cut in when the vacuum switch made contact at tickover or below. It was a good idea that didn't really pay benefits and they dropped it pretty quickly. For you, that means unscrewing the vacuum switch and showing it to the nearest roundtoit. If you look at the no.1 throttle body you'll find the end of the vacuum tube and a small rubber 'protection cap' next to it; use the same type of protection cap to blank off the vacuum tube

(item 17 here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0501-EUR-04-1983-K589-BMW-K_100_83_0501,0511_&diagId=13_0515. It's a lousy picture but hopefully you'll understand which part I mean)

The violet/yellow wire can be cut off flush at the nearest connector.

What about the unit to the left of it? I was actually referring to that... 

But thanks for telling me that. So I can just remove it and it wont do anything to the idle?

Sweet!

Rick G:

So maybe thats why the coolant was so nasty in terms of it corroding? The oil and coolant was starting to mix. 

Maybe it was just sitting so long also, but I have been wondering how the rest of the engine/driveline looks like.


Scheduled programming for tonight:

-Z breather tube
-Oil Filter
-Spark Plugs
-More cleaning

Sitting for a long time after the oil and coolant would certainly leave some bad deposits in the cooling system. Usually the coolant doesn't get into the oil but check the state of the crankcase by removing the right side engine cover.

Is that the one where the coolant hose goes through? What should I look for?

Thanks Rick g

Yep that's it

oh crap!

Well, when I unscrewd the oil filter cap, guess what came ou... OIL!

I looked up got a picture or two but it's green colored! Coolant. It leaked more than I thought!

Advice? I'm thinking continue on as normal. Start it, run for five minutes and change the oil again...

I'm assuming at this point that it was the oil/water pump that allowed this to happen.

I still have a fair amount to go. Replace the water pump and add a whole bunch of fluid. Ugh.

Pics:

https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B3obtViHR9BeWldGdWw2Zl8zcms/edit

The water pump seal has also failed and leaked coolant into the oil. The damage wont be much. Drop the whole oil pan(about 12 x 6mm Allen head bolts like the filter cover and leave it to drain. I would say the coolant has leaked in after the engine has stopped so there probably wont be any significant amount up in the engine.
You need to either reco the pump unit or get a new pump. Flush the coolant passages and radiator, drain the oil put a new filter in and new oil (no need to use expensive oil as you need to drain it in about 100 miles after it has picked up all the coolant).
once the oil and coolant are back in along with a good pump run it for a few minutes then check both to be sure that there is little or no oil/water emulsion (white foamy stuff) then let it cool. The emulsion will be any where from a milky look to the oil to white foam. If this happens then let it cool and sit then drain the oil and change the filter and do it again. This probably wont happen but be prepared.
Usually there will be a bit of white foam and it will get dispersed when the engine is at running temp.
If all is OK then take it for several short rides and change the oil and put what you want to use and keep an eye on the oil and coolant for a while.
Also check the coolant overflow container next to the battery there may be some oil in there.

jjs1234 wrote:What about the unit to the left of it? I was actually referring to that... 

But thanks for telling me that. So I can just remove it and it wont do anything to the idle?

Fuel pressure relief valve. You need to keep that... But yes, throwing the vacuum switch won't affect the tickover.

RicK G wrote:The water pump seal has also failed and leaked coolant into the oil. The damage wont be much. Drop the whole oil pan(about 12 x 6mm Allen head bolts like the filter cover and leave it to drain. I would say the coolant has leaked in after the engine has stopped so there probably wont be any significant amount up in the engine.
You need to either reco the pump unit or get a new pump. Flush the coolant passages and radiator, drain the oil put a new filter in and new oil (no need to use expensive oil as you need to drain it in about 100 miles after it has picked up all the coolant).
once the oil and coolant are back in along with a good pump run it for a few minutes then check both to be sure that there is little or no oil/water emulsion (white foamy stuff) then let it cool. The emulsion will be any where from a milky look to the oil to white foam. If this happens then let it cool and sit then drain the oil and change the filter and do it again. This probably wont happen but be prepared.
Usually there will be a bit of white foam and it will get dispersed when the engine is at running temp.
If all is OK then take it for several short rides and change the oil and put what you want to use and keep an eye on the oil and coolant for a while.
Also check the coolant overflow container next to the battery there may be some oil in there.

Thanks!

Will do after I get some new hoses and rebuild the pump.

I added some more pictures. Mostly relating to changing the spark plugs. That was easy, I had noticed they looked a little wet on two of the cylinders. 


Also does anyone know what these rings are for? They came with my kit but I have no idea.

When you drain the oil, look at the sump plug and clean it well, clean the threads too. There should be a washer on it, take it off and clean the plug where it rested. The washer is referred to as a crush washer. You have one for engine, gearbox and final drive drain plugs in your bag I guess. They should be replaced each time you change the oil, single use. However some of us have been known to reuse them with no ill effects. You also should have a big as in about 75mm diameter O ring for the round oil filter cover. Take the old one out and clean the groove.

Thing is, do not over tighten the drain plug when you reinstall it.

I bought a wad of them loose in a French supermarket because sometimes you get oil filters without hem.

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:When you drain the oil, look at the sump plug and clean it well, clean the threads too. There should be a washer on it, take it off and clean the plug where it rested. The washer is referred to as a crush washer. You have one for engine, gearbox and final drive drain plugs in your bag I guess. They should be replaced each time you change the oil, single use. However some of us have been known to reuse them with no ill effects. You also should have a big as in about 75mm diameter O ring for the round oil filter cover. Take the old one out and clean the groove.

Thing is, do not over tighten the drain plug when you reinstall it.

I bought a wad of them loose in a French supermarket because sometimes you get oil filters without hem.

Thanks 92kk.

If I remember correctly, the washer on the drain plug looks like its made out of copper. Those washers in the bag are not copper.  :silent:

Ill take it off and examine the drain plug.

jjs1234 wrote: If I remember correctly, the washer on the drain plug looks like its made out of copper.

Non OEM.

jjs1234 wrote: Those washers in the bag are not copper. 

Alu same as OEM.

RicK G wrote:The water pump seal has also failed and leaked coolant into the oil. The damage wont be much. Drop the whole oil pan(about 12 x 6mm Allen head bolts like the filter cover and leave it to drain. I would say the coolant has leaked in after the engine has stopped so there probably wont be any significant amount up in the engine.
You need to either reco the pump unit or get a new pump. Flush the coolant passages and radiator, drain the oil put a new filter in and new oil (no need to use expensive oil as you need to drain it in about 100 miles after it has picked up all the coolant).
once the oil and coolant are back in along with a good pump run it for a few minutes then check both to be sure that there is little or no oil/water emulsion (white foamy stuff) then let it cool. The emulsion will be any where from a milky look to the oil to white foam. If this happens then let it cool and sit then drain the oil and change the filter and do it again. This probably wont happen but be prepared.
Usually there will be a bit of white foam and it will get dispersed when the engine is at running temp.
If all is OK then take it for several short rides and change the oil and put what you want to use and keep an eye on the oil and coolant for a while.
Also check the coolant overflow container next to the battery there may be some oil in there.

Snapped a couple pictures of the crankshaft. The crankcase looks good too. 

Ive ordered the parts for the water pump and purchased two seals just to be safe. Also some new hoses too!

Should get here thursday, put it all together and flush the oil/coolant. And take it for a ride! 


Here are the pictures of the crankshaft here

RicK G wrote:I don't know of anybody doing a rebuild  that has successfully used the shaft again. The shaft is only available with the gear but you may find someone who will make a shaft. The shaft is expensive but so is a new pump.

I did
Off my 3 Ks(1985-986), I rebuilt the 3 pumps and never replaced the shaft.
Maybe I was lucky, but I was also very careful.

Me two (K1100 and K100).

I am refering to the pump with the nut on the end not the bolt. All the K1100s had the bolt and from memory factory started using the newer type around the end of 1985.
I have seen nothing but metal fatigue of the shaft and the threaded part breaks off as soon as I attempt to remove the nut.
I have heard of a couple that have survived the removal of the nut but not when tightening it after rebuild.

I'll reduce that to 'me one' then .

I had a friend here get a oil/water pump some time ago because the nut broke away while it was going. The cover was busted and the main body was damaged. It didn't do any major damage but a great cloud of steam and green slime went all over the bike.  As a result of that I certainly wouldn't recommend that anybody reuse one of those shafts.  Each one that has broken has been machined to a very sharp end to the thread where it meets the shaft which causes a high stress point and fractures right at the turn. All three I could see the shaft had been fractured for a long time and there was no chance of it doing anything but breaking. There should be a radius of 2mm on that corner.

So I installed my waterpump last night after getting the parts yesterday.

The video was not that hard at all, just for about 10 minutes I was questioning which way the seal went. But I think everything is good now.

Installed it at 10:30 and 11:45 respectively. So 12hr min wait time before filling with fluid.


Quite Excited to start it today.


1.) Fill with AntiFreeze (On that note: I was recommended Pentofrost Antifreeze here. I was told the GREEN colored coolant is not suitable for Aluminum blocks. So go for the Orange colored stuff) Opinions??
2.) Fill with Oil
3.) Connect Tank
4.) Fill with some gas
5.) Connect Battery
6.) START
7.) Check for leaks
8.) Run some seafoam
9.) Test ride
10.) Drain fluids

PICTURES: HERE


One other question: Some of the coolant mixed with the oil. Thats what I am going to flush out. Do I need to replace the Oil Filter too when I do this??


Thanks!

replace the filter  after letting it run through a few heat - fan cycles , do the oil at the same time
although eager to get out and ride it ...I would do the oil flush before putting the motor under load.

you have confirmed that the fan turns freely ?
they have a common issue with the bearings freezing .  a little wd40 will free them up but you might have to take the plastic cap off the back of the motor assembly to get at them

charlie99 wrote:replace the filter  after letting it run through a few heat - fan cycles , do the oil at the same time
although eager to get out and ride it ...I would do the oil flush before putting the motor under load.

you have confirmed that the fan turns freely ?
they have a common issue with the bearings freezing .  a little wd40 will free them up but you might have to take the plastic cap off the back of the motor assembly to get at them

When taking off the radiator and all that I did fling the fan. It does turn freely.

jjs1234 wrote:

charlie99 wrote:replace the filter  after letting it run through a few heat - fan cycles , do the oil at the same time
although eager to get out and ride it ...I would do the oil flush before putting the motor under load.

you have confirmed that the fan turns freely ?
they have a common issue with the bearings freezing .  a little wd40 will free them up but you might have to take the plastic cap off the back of the motor assembly to get at them

When taking off the radiator and all that I did fling the fan. It does turn freely.So I admit I'm a bit stumped. So I did everything to get it ready to start. Put oil in, attach the battery, put fuel in the fuel tank, and put coolant in the radiator.

I put the key in and I turn it in the dash lights turn on but that's it no lights elsewhere other than the clock.. this signals work and so does the horn so I'm confused as to what maybe I did not attach?

Any advice greatly appreciated.


Sorry that is speech to text on this small phone


Not that it matters but the headlight and the tail end is not currently hooked up.