Hey!

You haven't done much maintenance I suppose?!
Did you clean all electrical connection, changed the full filter in the tank?
Did you change the air filter?
Out of this reason I would do this first before putting the faring back :-)

Anyway a naked K is very nice and handy! but I understand, the first thing you want to do is just ride you bike!!!

With Faring
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Same bike without faring
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You will have you you will have to use the manual!
But maybe somebody can help, I can't.

But for adding pictures use this link:
https://www.k100-forum.com/t512-posting-pictures
Adding pictures here, I suppose is made as a intelligence test to qualify you as a K rider, if you can't do it you shouldn't ride a K bike ha ha :-)

Cheers

Hey Chocolate, yip all the maintenance is done ....

Chocolate wrote:

Same bike without faring
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Cheers

Nice looking bike.

Manual for removing RT fairing.  Just reverse the steps.

Perfect Robert, K life wouldn't be so nice without you :-)

Cheers

robmack wrote:Manual for removing RT fairing.  Just reverse the steps.

Erm... the OP says it's an RS?

Diagrams:

[Diag 1] http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0513-USA-03-1984-K589-BMW-K_100_RS_83_0502,0503,0513_&diagId=46_0113
[Diag 2] http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0513-USA-03-1984-K589-BMW-K_100_RS_83_0502,0503,0513_&diagId=46_1270
[Diag 3] http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0513-USA-03-1984-K589-BMW-K_100_RS_83_0502,0503,0513_&diagId=46_1272

Numbers in square brackets [] refer to numbers on the above links. If everything is still on the bench and in the usual big lumps, I've found that the easiest way to reassemble is:

1. Look inside the upper fairing - there is an M6 brass insert on a standoff either side of the headlight. Very loosely screw in an M6 x 10mm/12mm panhead screw and washer - aim for about 8mm or so of exposed thread
2. Upper fairing to mounting frame (spider) [Diag 2 / 1 - Diag 3 / 10]
3. Upper fairing chin piece and boots (if you still have the boots - bet you don't ) [Diag 1 / No number]
4. Fairing lowers - assembly loosely initially to both the main fairing and the brackets [Diag 1 / 17]
5. Radiator cover - attach to fairing lowers and chin piece, then tighten the fairing lowers. Don't forget [Diag 1 / 13] if you can be bothered and it hasn't already gone missing. It attaches to the intake trunk
6. Now the bit you're going to hate - the left and right flimsy metal brackets that sit in the upper fairing. There's a cutout at the top of each one - you need to hook that behind the screw and washer you mounted in step 2 [Diag 3 / 1 and 2]
7. Fairing centre cover [Diag 3 / 12]
8. Left covering and right covering [Diag 3 / 13 and 14]
9. Left covering and right covering [Diag 3 / 26 and 27]
10. Left covering and right covering [Diag 3 / 20 and 21]

I think that's it...

On RT the lower panels are the last to go on. Reason being that you can take these off easily for servicing/maintenance or leave them off in hot weather..

I discovered about 2 years ago that radiator cover would not go on after the lower panels because of the lugs on the front the lower panels. It needed to go on second last.

I know the RS and RT fairings differ a lot and Dai seems to be always inside that fairing for one reason or another. Possibly looking for the missing Christmas pudding. I promise we will have one for him.

Yeah.... thanks Olaf (I think!)

Main fairing bracket

Install headlight in main fairing body

Side brackets

Install main fairing body

Then windscreen & deflector

Brackets for L & R lowers

L & R lowers

Metal inner panels L & R 

Plastic inner trim

Radiator grill

As usual.... you guys are on the money, thanks


Before the forum I was considering some fuel and match. The manuals are very detailed regarding the mechanical stuff but find the trim rather vague. Having bought the bike in pieces its been challenging to say the least.


Rather interesting story I bought the bike from a deceased estate, a guy bought a property in a very rural part of South Africa from the deceased estate and when he got into the barn there she was  looking like this .....



No battery and no key ...

The guy decided to have a crack at getting it going and gave up so I bought it looking like this .....



A set of injectors and fabricate a bracket to hold down the battery and radiator overflow and im ready to swing the motor over ...

When you get it running treat yourself to new tyres.

Those old ones will be hard and dangerous so be careful on your test rides. You need about 38 psi font and maybe 42psi rear to start with but Ks hate old tyres.

Also, treat yourself to new fuel lines. They get hard and the constant on/off of the gas tank doesn't help them, they split and as they are under pressure you get spray......make them slightly longer so you can access under the tank more easily.

There are baffles etc go under he tank, did you get a load of little bits of foam and plastic? Maybe pop up a photo of what you have. Guys will see you right.

Looks a nice K too,

Yes there are some good barn finds happening. With those colours on it, it may be the limited edition Motorsport they bought out to commorate something that the factory saw as significant. It is similar to the motorsport that Dave from Scotland has. I am not real sure as I just don't know enough about what specials came out and when.
Is the paint straight white or does it have a pearl tint.

Here it is Rick & confused,






Paul.

As the brochure is dated 2/86, this must be the first of the 'Special Editions'.

I certainly looks like it could be one so you may have a bit more than just another RS. If you put up the VIN and engine number then if TWB is still working and not of to OZ we might find out.

Hi Rick, it has a pearl tint.

What would it mean should it be a special edition  .... more $$$$$$

Looks like it is a SE but that in itself doesn't mean it is worth more but the SE is the one that is far more likely to become a collectors item. What is the VIN and engine number as that would be fairly defining.