Hi Folks been a while since I introduced myself and have had a very pleasant year riding on my trusty steed when not playing with my newly rebuilt Ducati 907ie.

Winter is on it's way and a sudden period of unemployment has meant I now have time to change my bike to a Cafe Racer with "Patina". I did look to restore her but it was way too expensive for my pocket. This was an earlier picture things have come on a bit further this last week.

from this 



to this 



It has also been a chance to resolve some electrical issues that have been a source of constant annoyance prior to the rebuild..

So having studied various things and become really confused with the good old WWW. I have the following to ask

1. I have an issue with Hyper flash which I have never been able to resolve as I had after market indicators and have now gone down the partial LED route with a new rear number plate and stop/tail/indicator set up.

2. I seem to be unable to resolve the function of the Horn which meant attaching my old after market set to plastic bracket. they worked but seemed to be in some way effected by the indicator live wire which they seem to share?

3. ABS warning light staying on.

4. N0 apparent running front light and no function on the first click of the handlebar switch.

Naturally the triangular Red dash light has been a constant feature in my eyeline with these electrical quarks


So points of note with

1. This is my indicator switch which is not the same as those I have seen on Forums to alter Hyper flash with the pin lift trick? I'm I doing it right is there a link to this one?

 



2. I have two brown wires which go to twin horn set up which seem to be inter changeable with Indicators???

3. I am in the process of renewing what I found to be an aftermarket brake line fitted beneath fuel tank. I will also re bleed the whole system. I think I have what is known as ABS1 fitted. I will be manually bleeding system is there a perfect way. Also Double check as I have asked before How does the ABS reset switch work?

4. What wires go to the Headlights? I have Full and Dip beam light no issue on click 3 of handle bar switch and with left toggle switch. I have retro fitted a running bulb light taking the feed of the permanent rear light which functions perfectly but obviously is not switchable (if it ever was?) with the handlebar switch.


Well that's my lot .... thus far?

Many thanks.

Something to be looking at:

As this is an ex-police bike, the wiring may have been altered/cut when converting back for civilian use, so you have to take one step at a time.

The horn circuit.

The feed from fuse 7 also supplies the lighting relay, but that's about it. The 12v feed (Green/Brown) goes to the horn relay (pin 30). This is also linked across to pin 86 which is a feed to the temperature switching unit. Pin 85 should have a Brown/Yellow wire that comes from the horn button. When the button is pressed it connects the earth to the relay and energises it. The 12v output exits on pin 87 and via the Green/Grey wire feeds the horns, which will then operate via the earth wire (Brown).

Any full brown wire is a direct earth connection, hence why you have seen them on the horns and indicators (as well as all over the bike).

Headlight Wiring

Three wires:

High beam white wire.
Low beam yellow wire
Earth brown wire

Parking lamp:

Feed is from the Bulb monitoring circuit via a grey/white wire.
Earth is via a brown wire.

The ABS Switch

If by this you mean the button on the console, then this doesn't provide a reset function. It just extinguished the annoying flashing ABS lights for about four minutes. fault code reset is via the diagnostic port (blue three pin connector under the seat). If the ABS lights do not extinguish when the switch is operated, then it could just be a bad switch or the wiring may have been cut.

ABS1 can be identified by the large modulators sited on each side of the bike by the rear foot rests.

 Appropriate wiring diagrams will be available on the download page.

Mike

Englishstiv wrote:1. This is my indicator switch which is not the same as those I have seen on Forums to alter Hyper flash with the pin lift trick? I'm I doing it right is there a link to this one?

You've pulled and opened the BMU, not the flasher.  Of course, the current documentation won't match your board.  The flasher is probably green, on the rear left side of the relay box and has 15 pins, not 8.

Englishstiv wrote:4. What wires go to the Headlights? I have Full and Dip beam light no issue on click 3 of handle bar switch and with left toggle switch. I have retro fitted a running bulb light taking the feed of the permanent rear light which functions perfectly but obviously is not switchable (if it ever was?) with the handlebar switch.

The Euro switch on the right controls has three positions - Off, Running lights on, Running & Headlights On.  Positions 1 and 3 seem to be functioning according to your description.  In Position 2, you should have the flash function available on the headlight, but no permanent Lo/Hi beam function.  You should also have tail lights in Position 2.

Thank you for the replies robmack and mike d

Re second post about the BMU from reading various posts I was led to believe this is where you control the hyper flash problem when fitting LED's etc by eliminating it?

My green box is here and likewise I have not found a similar unit to slice or cut through the terminal as suggested by other postings hence my inquiry.





Regarding the light handlebar switch Rear light in position 1 but no front lights. On 1st click position 2 no front lights and rear light present. On 2nd click position 3 Front and Rear lights Main and Dip beam. Main beam Flash works irrespective of position of switch. I have a headlight that has 1 bulb with dip and main beam and a second that is a driving light this is the one that I have taken a feed from the rear light to activate. So yes there is a fault with running light in position 2 then. 

Q where is the feed to the bulb then in the loom ?


Regarding the bike I have been unable to see any reason why it was an ex police bike other than what I was told as thus far none of the remaining panels had any white colouring just the "Special" paint livery?

I also can confirm it is ABS 1.

At least I have something to tackle it with now thank you.

BMU is for monitoring the health of the bulbs in the brake circuit; the flasher is for the signals and 4-way emergency lights.



One option is to cut the pin indicated with the yellow arrow.  A much much better idea is to cut the trace to this pin on the reverse side.

Thank you Robmack so to double double check I cut across this trace on reverse?

Q where is the feed to the bulb then in the loom ?


On my diagram there is what looks like a 5 way connector containing the following wires:

1. 1 x Blue/Black (From RHS Front Indicator, then off to the rear indicator).
2. 1 x Blue/Red (From LHS Front Indicator, then off to the rear indicator).
3. 2 x Green/Grey (One from each of the horns, this then continues as a single wire to pin 87 of the horn relay).
4. 1 x Green/White (From the parking bulb and then on to the BMU).



I suspect just under the tank. You could try to trace the relevant wires back to this connector.

P.S. What type of graduations are on your speedometer? If they are close together that would indicate a Police spec version.

Mike

Englishstiv wrote:Thank you Robmack so to double double check I cut across this trace on reverse?

Yes, that's the correct trace.

Item 1. Hyper Flash = Resolved

Well, I'm probably stupid here but what about fitting a sub-minature on-off switch into the flasher case (there's enough room) and wiring the PCB tracks to that? Off = LED, on = tungsten.

Easier to just take solder and bridge the knife cut with a blob of solder, if you wish to return the flasher to normal behaviour.  With the mod in place, it will flash at a constant rate for both LEDs and tungsten; the only change is that tungsten lamp failure detection is disabled with that mod.

I had the problem of the ABS light with a RT I owned about 6 years ago. I fixed it. 

Took the globe out of the instrument cluster.

I have been driving and riding for 35 years and only once in that time has ABS kicked in and it scared the s**t out of me. I think I am better off without it.

No 2 and No 4 issues now resolved.

Just the ABS to sort out now, have hooked up my own little switch to wires that went to the top nacelle pod.
While digging around the cables by the headstock I found that the adapted braided hose from the non original ape hangers fitted had a small leak which may be the issue with the ABS. It needs a new shorter one in any case so once tackled I'll update here. (most likely after next week as I work away most weeks. Again thank you to those that have given input here it has really helped.