Before you go any further, you NEED to be aware of the following problem: BMW handlebars are 22.00mm diameter and everybody else uses 22.22mm (7/8") diameter. This means that fitting ANO switches to BMW bars means that you cannot fully tighten them up. There are two solutions to this. On the older metal-cased switches, one turn of insulating tape around the bars will suffice to take up the gap and allow the switches to be tightened. Once the switch is in-situ you can trim the visible edges of the tape with a sharp craft knife blade. The second solution for modern switches involves a drill and a 4.5mm drill bit. Modern switches all seem to come with a peg in one half of the shell that prevents the switch cluster from rotating. Be absolutely sure that you will never want to move the switch cluster from the position you think you want it to be before drilling the handlebars. You can also go for a 'hybrid' setup by removing the peg and using the insulating tape trick. There is a downside to this: the shells are very flimsy (I think this is why they use the peg trick) so it's very easy to overtighten the shell in an attempt to stop it rotating. If you strip the threads (yes, I have (sigh)) there is usually enough room to carefully tap out from 5mm to 6mm.

I've muttered about writing this up for the last couple of months, so it's about time I did it. It's mainly aimed at the cafe-racer crowd who might want to change the master cylinder to improve the braking or so they can change the brake calipers too. In my case I've had lifelong restricted movement in both wrists and both thumbs and I was finding the BMW paddles downright painful to operate at times. There are two things you need to know before considering this:

1. You will lose the self-cancelling indicators
2. You may or may not lose the hazard indicators. This depends on whether you have the switch fitted to the crashpad and also whether the replacement switches are European (with headlight on/off) or elsewhere (headlight always on). From 2003 onwards all European bikes are also headlights always on.
3. If you have a naked K or an RS (i.e. narrow bars) your choice is severely restricted to late-Seventies to mid-Eighties Honda handlebar switches with the built-in clutch bracket because there isn't the room to mount a separate clutch and switch. The 'bars are around 2" (50mm) too narrow and a separate clutch bracket causes the cable adjuster to foul the instrument housing. The only exception to this is if you're mounting an aftermarket speedo which will allow more room for the clutch cable to sweep round.

There is a second consideration with the narrow bars too; you will need to figure out some way of mounting a new choke mechanism. On LFB I sorted this by drilling a hole below the indicator switch contacts and mounting the choke mechanism from a Yamaha FZ750 underneath. LFB's lefthand switch is off a mid-Eighties CB250:

http://www.simpilot.net/~sc/brick/sw0.jpg
http://www.simpilot.net/~sc/brick/sw1.jpg

Choke mechanism:

http://www.simpilot.net/~sc/brick/sw2.jpg

[Another edit] Quite a few modern switches now have a fast idle (choke) lever built in to the l/h switch. Since I originally wrote this I've successfully used one of these on LFB after a major winter overhaul that included making a complete new loom. It happened to be from a Triumph Sprint, but of course any switch that has the fast idle lever will do. The downside, as above, is that you'll need to make your own cable. If you do go this route, try and get a switch that still has the fast idle cable attached because most switches sold on ebay come without the brass/plastic lead-in. Failing that, search ebay for 'cable end throttle/choke' and be sure that you get the correct one for the switch you have. [End another edit]

The righthand switch is off a very early CB750 - note the headlight on/off direction is reversed compared to today's switches. The master cylinder is from a Suzuki 1200 Bandit and the reservoir is a Chinese thing.

http://www.simpilot.net/~sc/brick/sw3.jpg
http://www.simpilot.net/~sc/brick/sw4.jpg

Last warning for the narrow bars: when hunting for righthand Honda switches you do NOT want one from a CDI-equipped bike. That type has the kill switch MAKE to kill the ignition system but the BMW requires a BREAK to do the same job. You can always ride around with the killswitch pointing to off...

[Another edit 2] Ditto the comment above regarding lefthand switches; I have successfully fitted a modern righthand switch from a Triumph Daytona to LFB. If you are doing this in the UK and you want the ability to turn the headlight off and just have a pilot light, the law changed in 2013 so that headlights are permanently on as per Europe and the USA. Consequently you need a pre-2013 righthand switch. [End another edit 2]

When hunting for switches you want the following:

Righthand (Europe) - start, kill and headlight off/pilot/on
Righthand (elsewhere) - start and kill (may have hazards in place of the headlight on/off).
Lefthand - horn, flash (passing), high/dip and indicators.

You will also need a wiring diagram from the donor bike(s). You only need this to identify which colour wire does which job and nothing more. The first diagram below is the standard BMW wiring loom - it only shows the areas we're interested in. Connector 1 is the connector block on the left side of the frame that goes to the left handlebar switch. Connector 2 is the connector block on the right side of the frame that goes to the right handlebar switch. How you deal with cutting and replacing wires through these blocks is entirely up to you. My prefence would be to cut them off completely and fit new Molex connectors.

http://www.simpilot.net/~sc/brick/brick_normal.bmp

The second diagram uses Suzuki GSXR 1300 Hayabusa switches for both left and right sides and has no headlight on/off switch.

http://www.simpilot.net/~sc/brick/suzuki_nh.jpg

Whatever switches you use, there are going to be some standard changes in the original BMW loom. In the no headlight switch situation you need to connect the BMW green/blue wire (headlight power feed) across the BMW slate/blue wire (pilot and tail) and the BMW yellow/white wire (headlight feed). If the no headlight switchblock has a hazard switch then you will need to crossfeed to the indicator switch on the new lefthand switchblock as shown above.

Note that not all of the original BMW wires are re-used.

For all replacement switches, locate the BMW flasher relay and unbolt it. Disconnect the relay from the relay block and see how much you can sell it for on Ebay. Under the relay block itself cut and insulate the following two wires:

blue/black
blue/red

This looks counter-intuitive because these are the indicator feeds but the way they run through the loom (one to the left handlebar and one to the right handlebar) means that they are not re-usable from this part of the loom. You will need to run new wires. Also, cut but don't insulate the following two wires:

green/brown
brown

You're going to re-use both of them.

This isolates the original indicator circuit. Now, screw the relay block back in. Depending on your preference for indicators, the replacement indicator relay can be the normal tungsten filament three-pin type or an LED three-pin type. Don't try to use a two-pin bi-metallic type because I'm not sure it will work. On the replacement indicator relay connect the green/brown wire to pin 49 and the brown wire to pin 31. Pin 49a goes to the indicator switch feed on the leftside switchblock.

The simplest place to pick up the indicator feeds is at the rear indicators and then run them up the bike.

The third diagram uses a Suzuki GSXR 1300 Hayabusa switch for the left side, an early Suzuki GSF 600 Bandit switch for the right side and has a headlight on/off switch. Note here that the GSF pilot and headlight circuits have different feeds (pilot is blue/orange, headlight is orange/red), so they both need to go to the BMW light feed (green/blue)

http://www.simpilot.net/~sc/brick/suzuki_wh.jpg

Lastly, just to show I'm not obsessed with Suzukis, the same mod done with the Honda switches that I'm using. Note that here, the Honda black/white and black wires feed to the BMW green/blue light feed. However, there is also a second Honda black wire that provides power to the pilot/headlight switch. I hope you possess a multimeter...

http://www.simpilot.net/~sc/brick/honda_wh.jpg

Thanks Dai for your superb post. I am commencing parts acquisition for switching the switches. Why? Initial inspiration came after looking into a front brake upgrade. Pre discovering the K100 forum I made a laborious and frustrating attempt. Decided to fit Brembo 4 pot gold callipers to my 83 K100. Designed and machined my own Aluminium billet calliper brackets for the standard K100 discs. Refitted my standard K100 master cylinder and bleeding and bleeding and bleeding the brakes discovered to my horror that I needed a larger diameter master cylinder. Purchased a new 15mm Brembo (not for BMW) master cylinder and discovered that the K100 switchgear would not fit (the ergonomics are impossible). Looked at alternative "conventional" switchgear and decided against further work on the basis that a major rewiring would be required to make it work. Refitted the standard brakes and switchgear.
Dai's post has provided the roadmap for brake/switchgear upgrade. Am going the Suzuki route. So far have purchased gen. 1 Suzuki Hayabusa L and R switchgear. Also have purchased a Suzuki 1200 Bandit master cylinder with 15-16mm diameter bore. This means that after following Dai's switchgear recipe I can refit the 4 pot gold Brembo's.
Further down the track will do a complete front end upgrade to my 86 K100RS using Dai's post :- 1997 Suzuki GSXR1100 front end, 6 pot Tokiko callipers, aforementioned Brembo 15mm master cylinder and modern Triumph switchgear. This is sometime away but have assembled the parts.
Thank you Captain Hollister for your wise counsel in pointing me to Dai's post.

The R100 Mystic (last of the airhead boxers) has a 15mm master cylinder and the switch gear will fit.

What Rick says, but they're a bit rare s/h. Oddly, I have also fitted a pair of Brembo four-pot 34/40 Goldlines, hence the Bandit master cylinder.

Thanks Dai and RickG. For me the brake upgrade has driven by my choice of larger diameter master cylinder. The 15mm R100R Mystik master cylinder is comparatively hard to find. My concern is that used Mystik MC's are expensive and often look so battered that I had to consider that a full MC overhaul kit (not cheap) would be necessary. Incidently last night had a Google trawl and note that Motoworks in the UK have new Mystik MC's for UK Pounds 135.57 excluding VAT (their part reference #BRA14022 - BMW #: 32722314022).
The Mystik MC upgrade and BMW 4 pot callipers is the way to go if you want braking improvement with minimal disturbance of the stock BMW look and the easiest/fastest upgrade.
In the end it comes down to personal choice based on cost, performance, how much you enjoy the challenge inherent in doing an upgrade and what you are able to find in terms of parts and advice.

Dai, thanks for this great write-up. I've completed the left side work, including putting in the relay, and that went well. I've encountered a problem on the right side switch and hope you can help. I'm working on a US model K100RT 1985. 

I bought a starter/kill switch with 4 wires (2 for starter, 2 for kill). Since I have a US model, I assumed that this means I need to connect the 3 wires as shown in your Suzuki diagram above. I did that and hooked up  the switch (as you'll see below, I'm worried this was wrong). Turned on the ignition and had no headlight, taillight or speedo backlight and the starter didn't work. I have an aftermarket Acewell speedo. Turned it off, unhooked my work on the right switch, and hooked up the OEM switch. Turned on ignition and still no headlight, or taillight or speedo backlight. But the starter button did work with the OEM switch. I still had a brake light though when I depressed the brakes. 

I fear multiple problems. Obviously I don't have the starter and kill hooked up properly. I'm worried I damaged something in the lighting system. All the fuses look good. Any ideas of what went wrong?  It's possible that I knocked loose the power feed to the lights. I'll investigate that. But in the mean time, would greatly appreciate any ideas you might offer. Thanks!

Update: I got the starter working with the new aftermarket switch. The lights are still non-functional though. Would really appreciate ideas on the lights. TIA.

Which aftermarket Japanese motorbike switch did you select for the left and right sides?
Do you pull Acewell illumination off the Grey/Blue wire on Pin 24 of the OEM instrument cluster?
Did you jump Grey/Blue (Pin 7) to White/Yellow (Pin 4) and Green/Blue (Pin 3) at the harness side of the right hand connector or was it already there from the factory?
Do you use the clutch switch to enable the starter?
Do you have a schematic of how you have wired your aftermarket switch?

Rob, I'm glad you replied. Have really appreciated your help in the past. 

The aftermarket switches I got from Dime City Cycles. They are K&S Technologies Inc brand. When I put only the left switch in, before messing with the right, I had properly functioning head and tail lights. 

I do pull the illumination for the Acewell off the grey/blue wire. I didn't check, but I assume you are right that that is pin 24. 

On the right hand switch the three pins you mentioned were not jumpered from the factory. I assumed, but don't actually know, that they are jumpered in the switch on the bar. Maybe that is where I made the mistake? I did make my own jumper to tie all 3 together. Now I get no head or tail lights whether I have my jumper installed or not. 

Embarrassingly, I didn't diagram how I hooked up the headlight and taillight when I did the work some months ago, and now I don't recall. I've wrapped most of that work in tape. And before that I soldered and shrink wrapped all connections. It's always possible I've got a bad connection somewhere in there, but I'll have to cut into everything to investigate. Really hoping to avoid that. 

I'm using v2 of your neutral start enable board. The starter cranks whether I hold the clutch in or not. 

Any ideas based on this info?

KJustin wrote:On the right hand switch the three pins you mentioned were not jumpered from the factory. I assumed, but don't actually know, that they are jumpered in the switch on the bar. Maybe that is where I made the mistake? I did make my own jumper to tie all 3 together. Now I get no head or tail lights whether I have my jumper installed or not. 

If your right hand control looks like this:

Then the jumpers will not be in place on the harness side of the 9-pin connector.

If your right hand control looks like this:

Then those jumpers could already be in place on the OEM harness (at least on Canadian models they are required by law}. You'll have to visually check for them. It's important that they are on the harness side, not the switch side.

Because you've hooked up the Acewell dial illumination to the Grey/Blue wire, it means that the illumination should come on with the ignition switch in the start position (not park position). Power comes from those jumpered pins above through Fuse 7.

Embarrassingly, I didn't diagram how I hooked up the headlight and taillight when I did the work some months ago, and now I don't recall. I've wrapped most of that work in tape. And before that I soldered and shrink wrapped all connections. It's always possible I've got a bad connection somewhere in there, but I'll have to cut into everything to investigate. Really hoping to avoid that. 

Ooo, that's too bad. That will make it a crap shoot whether you've miswired

I'm using v2 of your neutral start enable board. The starter cranks whether I hold the clutch in or not. 

Any ideas based on this info?

You might have taken out the BMU. That unit controls the rear marker light which you said doesn't work. You'll have to check that power is being supplied to that BMU. The power to the BMU travels through Fuse 1 via the Kill switch.

Rob, thanks.  That gives me some ideas about where to test and see where I have power/current to hopefully figure out where the problem is.  If that does not make it readily apparent where the problem is, I'll cut everyting apart and diagram things and approach the probem that way.  By the way, I do have a BMU still; I've never touched it.  Given that my newly installed starter and kill switch are working, does that indicate that my problem is not a power failure to/through the BMU? 

I have the right hand switch shown in your lower photo, i.e., the one that does not have a switch to turn off the headlights.  I'm a bit confused about the jumpering in the harness to the right hand switch.  I'll need to look again, but I don't think my harness has any jumpers on it.  I created my own jumpers by attaching bullet pins to a wire and plugging them in to the harness. 

You say that "it's important they are on the harness side."  I'm not sure that my homemade bullet jumpers meet that requirement. In other words, my homemade jumpers are arguably not on the harness side, rather they plug in the same way that the plug from the switch plugs in.  Is there a chance that this is my problem?  Seems strange to me that it would matter that much, but as I've proved time and again, I'm weak on electronics.

Thanks so much for taking the time to help me through this!

I mention that it is important they are on the harness side of the plug because power still needs to be delivered from Grey/Blue (Pin 7) to White/Yellow (Pin 4) and Green/Blue (Pin 3) even if the right hand control gets unplugged.  On Canadian models, the jumpers are evident as small wires bridging the back of the connector.  Canadian law mandates that lights are on all the time, hence the jumpers.

You certainly have the BMU but I can't say that the electronics inside the box are functioning any longer.  It's conjecture on my part because the symptoms you describe lead me along that path.  I don't see any source of power for the rear running lights except that what is delivered by the BMU. If you feel brave, you may want to bypass the BMU, as outlined in Duck's technical article.

Ok, finally got home to work on my bike. There were no factory jumpers. I discovered that there was no power at the grey/blue pin 7 on the right hand harness. I also put together that the wire feeding the acewell back light is the same grey/blue. I also happened to have the ignition out, because I'm relocating it. And I noticed there's a grey/blue wire there. Then I thought, maybe they are all related.

When I turned on the ignition I found that the grey/blue wire there had no power. That seemed wrong. Looking at the Clymer manual wiring diagram that look like it should be live when on (but not in parking light mode). So, on a lark I ran a wire from one of the live pins from the ignition and, presto, I had all the lights and speedo working.

Also, I didn't cut into my taped up other wiring from when I rewired my aftermarket tail light. However all this jogged my memory that I wired in to switched power that was handy at the time. I bet if I cut into things I'd find that I tied into that same grey/blue wire so as to be on the same circuit as the headlight and speedo power.

So, this leads to a few questions: 1 do I have a bad ignition because the grey/blue pin is not working (assuming that that pin should be live when the ignition is on)? 2. If that's malfunctioning can it be fixed by taking apart the ignition? 3. Would there be any problems with just feeding the wire that illuminates the head, tail, and speedo lights from one of the other switched pins/wires from the ignition. I'm thinking the green wire would be best, but I'm not sure.

Thoughts?

Ok, so I finally had a chance to pull the BMU and test around it, per Rob's (always excellent) advice. I wasn't getting power from pin15 (green/black) to pin 58E (grey/white). I jumpered across them and got full power to headlight, taillight and speedo. I have to admit that I don't really understand how this works, so it makes me nervous. I guess that makes my question whether this is a good solution that won't cause some other problem.

Since I already had the BMU out, I thought I'd just remove It entirely. But when I followed the instructions in Ducks article, I didn't get any brake light function. I'm not sure what to make of this.

I think what I'm going to do , unless someone tells me otherwise,is jumper 15 and 58E and the put the BMU back in. All comments welcome.

My next step would be to use a voltmeter to make sure that the front and rear brake switches are working.

Jumping them to the brake light wire should work every time.

Sorry, I think I must have been unclear, the brake lights work correctly when the brake levers are depressed (assuming I have the BMU in, but not when I take it out and jump the wires). I'll test anyway over the weekend and see what I find. Anything else I should test?

KJustin wrote:Ok, finally got home to work on my bike. There were no factory jumpers.  I discovered that there was no power at the grey/blue pin 7 on the right hand harness. I also put together that the wire feeding the acewell back light is the same grey/blue. I also happened to have the ignition out, because I'm relocating it. And I noticed there's a grey/blue wire there. Then I thought, maybe they are all related.

Yes they are all related.  They are all connected together, ultimately.

KJustin wrote:When I turned on the ignition I found that the grey/blue wire there had no power. That seemed wrong.  Looking at the Clymer manual wiring diagram that look like it should be live when on (but not in parking light mode). So, on a lark I ran a wire from one of the live pins from the ignition and, presto, I had all the lights and speedo working.

Don't trust the Clymer or Haynes schematics.  They have known errors, especially in the depiction of the ignition switch.  Trust Bert's interactive electrical diagrams or download the colour drawings of the '83-'85 K100 Basic from my Google Drive.  

In any case, the grey/blue only has power with the ignition turned to "ON" (second position).  It has no power when the ignition is turned to "P" (first position).

KJustin wrote:So, this leads to a few questions:  1 do I have a bad ignition because the grey/blue pin is not working (assuming that that pin should be live when the ignition is on)?

If you turned the switch to "ON" (second position) and got no power on grey/blue, you have reason to suspect your ignition switch.

KJustin wrote:2. If that's malfunctioning can it be fixed by taking apart the ignition?  

Yes.  There are plenty of posts describing the disassembly process.

KJustin wrote:Ok, so I finally had a chance to pull the BMU and test around it, per Rob's (always excellent) advice. I wasn't getting power from pin15 (green/black) to pin 58E (grey/white). I jumpered across them and got full power to headlight, taillight and speedo. I have to admit that I don't really understand how this works, so it makes me nervous. I guess that makes my question whether this is a good solution that won't cause some other problem.  

That's not a really good idea.  You've jumpered two power sources together.  It doesn't create bangs and flames like jumpering a power source to a ground, but you've short circuited some fuse outputs.

KJustin wrote:
Since I already had the BMU out, I thought I'd just remove It entirely. But when I followed the instructions in Ducks article, I didn't get any brake light function.  I'm not sure what to make of this.

You do realize that making Duck's modifications means opening the BMU, ripping out its guts like a Thanksgiving turkey, throwing those away and soldering the wires to the base of the BMU with the pins.  I take it you didn't really do that bit.

KJustin wrote:I think what I'm going to do , unless someone tells me otherwise,is jumper 15 and 58E and the put the BMU back in.   All comments welcome.

If you examine the schematic I linked to above, you'll notice that the power to drive the brake light comes in on Pins E1 and E2, and that the brake light bulb is on Pin 58A.  Jumper these three wires together on the BMU socket (put the BMU away in a safe place).  Make the jumpers using 1/4" male spade connectors.

You should also notice that the running light input is the power lead on Pin 58E, and the running light bulb connects to Pin 54A.  Join these two pins together with another jumper (your BMU is still safely stowed somewhere else right?).

You do realize that making Duck's modifications means opening the BMU, ripping out its guts like a Thanksgiving turkey, throwing those away and soldering the wires to the base of the BMU with the pins.  I take it you didn't really do that bit.

You don't necessarily have to do it that way. For a couple of my bikes I've made "fake" BMUs by eviscerating the old one while on others I just put jumper wires across the BMU socket. Six of one, half dozen of the other.

I have a whole box of old BMUs so tearing one apart and ripping its guts out is of absolutely no concern to me, especially since I never plan to run anything but LED bulbs.

That's not a really good idea.  You've jumpered two power sources together.  It doesn't create bangs and flames like jumpering a power source to a ground, but you've short circuited some fuse outputs.

Not sure what your point is here but since both the front and rear brake switches are powered by Fuse #1 jumping them together to the brake light wire does not "cross up" any circuitry or create short circuits across different fuses.

You're right, I analyzed the circuitry incorrectly.  Green/black on Pin 15 is a power input to the BMU.  Grey/white on Pin 58E is the parking light circuit, and might get its power from the green/black through circuitry on the relay (don't know yet I can't see any other source of power for the circuitry on Fuse #2).  So jumpering them is not problematic.

^ That's what I was guessing....based on some other reading here and on motobrick.  But it was really only a guess.  Duck, can you confirm?

If so, then at least I'm not doing anything harmful (though I still plan to investigate why I apparently don't have proper readings at the ignition switch pins and elsewhere).

KJustin wrote:^ That's what I was guessing....based on some other reading here and on motobrick.  But it was really only a guess.  Duck, can you confirm?

If so, then at least I'm not doing anything harmful (though I still plan to investigate why I apparently don't have proper readings at the ignition switch pins and elsewhere).

Confirm what?

That both brake light switches are powered by Fuse #1?  Yes, I am 100% certain of that fact.

Sorry, I was definately not clear.  Can you confirm that green/black pin 15 powers grey/white pin 58E through the BMU.  If that is true, then I definately have a bad BMU (at least as to that connection).  TIA.

The gray/white wire from Fuse #2 to 58E provides tail light power through the BMU to the gray/black output wire to the tail light.

The green/black from Fuse #1 to Pin 15 provides power to the BMU for its circuitry.

FYI: For Bosch circuits, Pin 15 is usually 12V+ and Pin 31 is the ground.

Also make sure that your kill switch is on when testing this stuff as it cuts power to Fuse #1.

(Remember that if you hit the kill switch while riding it will cut power to your brake light switches and vehicles behind you may not be aware that you are braking. Not a great design IMO but it is what it is.)

I undid my BMU jumper and retested. And read the posts a bit closer. I have power at pin 58E when I have the parking light on (and my tail light is lit up). But when i turned the ignition to 'on', no power at 58E and no tail light. Should there be power at 58E when the ignition is on?

I'm leaning towards a bad ignition switch. I get no power on either the grey or grey/blue when the ignition is on. Seems like I should have power at both when the ignition is on. Is that right?

You should have power on grey/white both in the "P" position and in the "ON" position. In "P" position, power is supplied from the red lead (direct battery connection) through the ignition switch to the Grey lead, through Fuse #2 to the grey/white. In the "ON" position, power (I surmise) is provided to the grey/white wire from Pin 15 (green/black) on the BMU, as well as along the grey wire, through the ignition switch contacts to the grey/blue. I can't see how power can get to that circuit with the ignition switch in that position otherwise.

Disconnect your ignition switch to test it. When it is the full on position you should have continuity between the red and green wires and continuity between the gray and gray/blue wires.

And here's a nice color wiring diagram for an early K100:

http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/kwiring/Early%20K75%20K100/K100_Early_Wiring_Diagram.jpeg

Boy am I stumped. I have proper continuity, per ducks instructions. I also took the ignition apart and it was very clean inside. But I cleaned it with deoxit anyway.

In park position I get 12v only on the grey wire. In on position I get 12v only on the green wire. There is no circumstance where I get 12v on the grey/blue wire.

My fuses are good and I have 12v at fuses 1 and 2.

I have 12v at grey/white 58E at the BMU when in park, but not when switched to on

I'd like to figure this out if possible.

In the meantime, I've concocted another work around to get power to all lights and speedo by grabbing the green wire switched power at the right hand plug and feeding the grey/blue wire in that plug. It seems to work but I'd be interested in whether this is acceptable or a bad idea.

Dai 


Disculpe porque estoy seguro de que se me escapan algunos detalles.


Estoy siguiendo su esquema para el interruptor derecho de Honda.


Pero si el poder del botón de inicio seleccionado directamente del botón de matar.


¿Esto no elimina el sistema de seguridad de la luz neutral y el interruptor del embrague al tener siempre energía?


Supongo que no lo estoy interpretando bien.

Tampoco puedo encontrar el cable verde / azul de BMW que comentas.


Saludos

Google Translate:

Excuse me because I'm sure some details are missing. I am following your scheme for the right Honda switch. But if the power of the start button selected directly from the kill button, does this not eliminate the neutral light safety system and the clutch switch by always having power?

I guess I'm not interpreting it well. Nor can I find the green / blue BMW cable you comment.

// Answer:

The blue-green wire sometimes appears to be all-green because the colours fade. It goes to fuse 7. If I study the wiring diagram, I don't think that the modification at the handlebar affects the safety interlock switches. My motorcycle did not have a safety switch on the sidestand, so I cannot be absolutely sure. I removed the clutch switch, because I hated it, so I know that worked! The design of the BMW wiring diagram is not logical and is very different to all other manufacturers.

Google translate (it actually looks about right!):

El cable azul-verde a veces parece ser todo verde porque los colores se desvanecen. Va al fusible 7. Si estudio el diagrama de cableado, no creo que la modificación en el manillar afecte a los interruptores de enclavamiento de seguridad. Mi motocicleta no tenía un interruptor de seguridad en el caballete lateral, por lo que no puedo estar absolutamente seguro. Quité el interruptor del embrague porque lo odiaba, ¡así que sé que funcionó! El diseño del diagrama de cableado de BMW no es lógico y es muy diferente al de todos los demás fabricantes.

The truth is that in Spain we are very limited to what we can do.
Only the detail that the killer goes backwards is not allowed, so I will have to solve it through a relay.

I also want to eliminate the BMU and the original turn signal relay as I go with LED. The shed relay is kept to avoid sticking the starter relay to the maximum

When I finally solve the entire installation BEP 3.0 included I will create a post in case someone solves any details.

Thank you for info

NayoAlex wrote:The truth is that in Spain we are very limited to what we can do.
Only the detail that the killer goes backwards is not allowed, so I will have to solve it through a relay.

I also want to eliminate the BMU and the original turn signal relay as I go with LED. The shed relay is kept to avoid sticking the starter relay to the maximum

When I finally solve the entire installation BEP 3.0 included I will create a post in case someone solves any details.

Thank you for info

Hi NayoAlex. 
Que marca es tu velocímetro? 
Estoy cafeteando mi k100 y al final voy a tener que comprar un Bep 3

https://www.k100-forum.com/t16458-k100-rs-cafe-racer-neutral-gear

Hi. M speedometer is the Koso DB 01 RN. Now I will continue with the modification. So I will see to resolve everything that Dai kindly asked me. (thanks for the answers Dai)

Dai wrote: For all replacement switches, locate the BMW flasher relay and unbolt it. Disconnect the relay from the relay block and see how much you can sell it for on Ebay. Under the relay block itself cut and insulate the following two wires:

blue/black
blue/red

This looks counter-intuitive because these are the indicator feeds but the way they run through the loom (one to the left handlebar and one to the right handlebar) means that they are not re-usable from this part of the loom. You will need to run new wires. Also, cut but don't insulate the following two wires:

green/brown
brown

You're going to re-use both of them.

This isolates the original indicator circuit. Now, screw the relay block back in. Depending on your preference for indicators, the replacement indicator relay can be the normal tungsten filament three-pin type or an LED three-pin type. Don't try to use a two-pin bi-metallic type because I'm not sure it will work. On the replacement indicator relay connect the green/brown wire to pin 49 and the brown wire to pin 31. Pin 49a goes to the indicator switch feed on the leftside switchblock.

The simplest place to pick up the indicator feeds is at the rear indicators and then run them up the bike.

Hi Dai, 
Just working on this converion on my 85 k100rt
I have the right hand controls working no problem

I'm having an issue with the indicator wiring, 
I have removed  the green flasher module and tapped into the brown/green brown earth/power


Now I'm slightly confused, does the green flasher module need to be plugged back I. Without a power source and the blue/red blue/black cut as well?

I see no point in cutting the blue red/black if the flasher module is not plugged in? 

Or is the flasher module not a throw away part? 
As you said screw the relay back in? Or does this refer to the new relay? 

Also when I check for continuity at flasher module plug 
On the blue/red blue/black (still not cut from the plugat this stage) to the rear light harnesses its giving continuity to everything like all the blue/red blue/black and brown are connected 

Can the original bmw harness not be used at all for the indicators?  (blue/red and blue/black) picked up from the rear? Sorry if I have misunderstood this? 

Thanks for any help you can give

This literally is a dive through. I'm extremely busy ATM but I will get back to you.

right - a couple of minutes spare.

"For all replacement switches, locate the BMW flasher relay and unbolt it. Disconnect the relay from the relay block and see how much you can sell it for on Ebay. Under the relay block itself cut and insulate the following two wires:

blue/black
blue/red

This looks counter-intuitive because these are the indicator feeds but the way they run through the loom (one to the left handlebar and one to the right handlebar) means that they are not re-usable from this part of the loom. You will need to run new wires. Also, cut but don't insulate the following two wires:

green/brown
brown

You're going to re-use both of them.

This isolates the original indicator circuit. Now, screw the relay block back in. Depending on your preference for indicators, the replacement indicator relay can be the normal tungsten filament three-pin type or an LED three-pin type. Don't try to use a two-pin bi-metallic type because I'm not sure it will work. On the replacement indicator relay connect the green/brown wire to pin 49 and the brown wire to pin 31. Pin 49a goes to the indicator switch feed on the leftside switchblock."

To answer your question directly: no, you are not reusing the green box, hence my comment about selling it on ebay. You are using a new standard three-pin car or motorcycle relay. The reason I say screw the (terminal) block back in is because it is now acting as an anchor point for a whole load of unwanted wires that you would otherwise have to cut and insulate.

The blue/red and blue/black wires run from the green box to the right and left paddle switches respectively. As you are replacing the switchgear these two wiring runs are no longer required. What are you using for switchgear?

Thanks for replying,

I'm just using Ali express controls



So wired like your Suzuki controls except the hazard is on the left controller as well

Basically what I'm asking is I shouldn't be using the original indicator loom at all?
I should be making a new loom for the entire length of the bike, to provide power for dash, front and rear indicator lights?

The only thing I need to use is the power from the original flasher box plug ?

It was written for someone that wasn't too happy with messing with electrics. If you are happy with that game then yes, in your situation I'd just make a complete new subloom and use fuse 3 (red/white) as the power feed. I have a habit of subverting that hazard switch for  use as an auxiliary lights on-off switch.

Great thanks,
Won't need aux lights, don't really ride at night and I've fitted a led light unit with drl so hopefully visible to those pesky car/truck drivers