I'm in the process of reassembling my motor and since I have a new rear seal I may as well fit it. The question is do I fit it dry or put oil on the seal lip before I put the clutch carrier back in place?

I've recently done the rear main on my R100GS and the wisdom there is that you fit it dry so that the teflon on the seal lip gets spread over the mating surface. The rear main on the K100 is different though and I wonder if the same principal applies.

Who has done one recently and what to you recon? The seal came from Motobins if that makes any difference.

You should soak them in oil for 2 hours prior to fitting then wipe the excess oil from it, probably just to prevent it spreading over all and sundry, then fit it with 0.5mm protruding at the rear. Apparently this is because the newer seals have the lip in a different place relative to the older ones but I have found that providing the surface is good then put it in flush.

moto bins made the same suggestion on their catalogue. 
It's time for this uneducated grease monkey to explore the inner depths of the Rear main . 
apart from the main seal could I kindly ask , what else needs to be placed in the shopping kart to replace the main seal. washers, clips etc.
hope it goes in for you alright Rockman.

You will need to replace the big O-ring as well Ed

No this is the one Ed 11211 460456

groverK wrote:moto bins made the same suggestion on their catalogue. 
It's time for this uneducated grease monkey to explore the inner depths of the Rear main . 
apart from the main seal could I kindly ask , what else needs to be placed in the shopping kart to replace the main seal. washers, clips etc.
hope it goes in for you alright Rockman.

Its in, I didnt soak it but it received a good coating of oil so it should be ok I hope.

And yes with the O ring. You'll destroy the old one getting it out.

The only other problem I found was that the locating pins on the clutch were siezed in place and a lot of prising was needed to get the cluch off. I ended up damaging the clutch plate doing this. It was only just in spec anyway so I'd have replaced it.

Other than that, the motor is now back together. Replaced the output shaft, cleaned the starter clutch, replaced the oil sight glass, found out why the choke didnt work, replaced radiator hoses, put in new injectors. Just waiting for the clutch plate and the rubber boots from the plenum chamber to the throttle bodies to arrive and I can begin reassembling the bike.

Check the clutch steel plates for dishing, I have seen them so dished that only about 4mm was contacting on the outer edge of the plate.

RicK G wrote:Check the clutch steel plates for dishing, I have seen them so dished that only about 4mm was contacting on the outer edge of the plate.

all good Rick. They are flat using a steel ruler to check. Plate looks like it was contacting over the full friction surface.

On a different note, What is the recommended hose clamps for the inlet manifold rubber connectors? Munich has them listed but at $4.95 each plus postage, a set of 8 is expensive.

Here is a Suzuki part number and some text to prove RT is to blame if they are wrong
Yay, 4 new throttle body clamps arrived today (Suzuki part no. 0940248208), screw tight types, black. Post 33 of https://www.k100-forum.com/t5166-k-pox-and-its-insidious-mental-side-effects#top
A few here have used them so I reckon they are OK.