JaseYPK wrote:My next plan will be to sort some clip ons and mirrors as I don't have any now, and kind of like having them, with being a new rider! Haha

I'll keep you all updated with photos when I get a chance

Thanks for looking,

Jase

Not sure if I quoted correctly, but here goes - the bars are not  fark wine on a Tuesday is not good some imperial measurement that is close to 22mm. They are 22mm. Not even sure 22mm is correct atm.

Aftermarket bars do not fit without adjustment. Or, they fit, but the fittings do not fit on them.
Just a heads up.

Unless I am wrong.
Is this the Katana forum?
Is it Friday yet?
Oh look. A z1300 on another post. Quick. Go there.

Yeah I measured the fork diameter and came to the same conclusion!! Looks like I've just got to get as close as I can size wise and pad the brackets/clips/things out!

I'm gonna be clipping the bars to the forks so I'm not fussed how big the oem one is. I'll be fabricating my own switches etc in good time

As promised, heres some photos!

The day I collected her started with me riding the largest and heaviest bike I've ridden, after not riding for 6 months, and only riding for a total of 10 days ever. Pretty scary moment for an amateur! haha

Apologies for any poor quality photos, the original few weren't taken by me, and the rest are taken on my iPhone!





So thats how she started. Pretty clean, low milage. Happy rider!

Until I realised the speedo and the trip reading were intermittent. So I started some fault finding with the help of this forum (passive reading)... and managed to stop it working altogether. Ah well. I rode it for about a month with no speedo.. sort of. I bought a phone case and bracket off eBay for a tenner, downloaded a GPS Speedo app for free, and I'm currently utilising that!

So next up I needed to removed those ugly pannier bracket rails...



This was a nightmare in itself because to those of you who have done it: on the rear of the large allen key bolts is a what looks like a washer, but its actually a nut. This is supposed to be fixed into the bracket and not spin. Well guess what.. mine span. So i was unable to remove the final allen bolt. The rear wheel came off to get to the nut side, and i ended up carving a line in it with my dremel to enable me to get a screwdriver in and stop it from spinning whilst i undid the bolt. Only that didn't work because I couldn't apply enough force with the screwdriver. So after much more dremel'ing, and failing, the circle washer/bolt was chopped off, and the allen bolt STILL spun and refused to come out.

In the end I went with the easy option (why I didn't do this originally I don't know..) and I drilled the bolt out. Came right out in about 2 minutes! And then there were no pannier brackets! Much cleaner back end in my opinion!

The rear foot rests were removed at the same time.

In my infinite wisdom to try to track down that electrical issue with the speedo, I pulled the fairings off and traced cables back (after cleaning sensor and taking the gauge apart as recommended), and decided I liked the look more than fairings on. So I went ahead and removed the rest of the fairings, and that was that. A naked K100RS it was:



Then started the electrical gremlins again. No front indicators meant hyper flashing. I could live with that until I got my new ones on... only they are LED's and didn't stop the hyper flashing. So back to the forums, resulting in this:



A simple scratch off, of the no 7 pin connection on the rear of the indicator relay. It worked a treat! No more hyper flashing and it took me about 30 minutes, including fuel tank off, relay out and the scratching. Time well spent!

The new headlight isn't currently fitted, but hopefully that is this Saturdays task, so a photo will arrive shortly!

Most of the parts I removed are currently on eBay (user name is jase_ypk), if anyone wants a browse to see if i've got anything of use!

I just took time to read the thread and discovered the removed parts are on ebay.
My original reason for this post is toast.
S

Quic update!
I managed to get my headlight on and fitted:



This caused a few issues, the first being me thinking the forks would slide out when I undid the pinch bolts. I managed to round one of the lower 8mm pinch bolts. How I managed that I don't know. So I took the top yoke off and slotted them on that way. (Probably should have done that originally..)

And the brackets I ordered, at 41mm.. We're a little tight. Nothing a pull with some pliers and a hammer and block of wood couldn't solve though. 

Also did a 100 mile ride today (90 more than I've ever done before) and wow was that unpleasant... Well mildly. So choppy without the fairings on!

BUT. Wait for it.. BUT.. This epic ride was made up for by the fact I had the Vulcan fly over me really low on my ride. What a sight to see, and such a shame it'll be grounded forever very shortly!

One of my mates had a go on my bike and says the steering is super stiff, so I think that might be my next point of call!

Looks like your headlight bracket is on back to front.
Have you got front blinkers and mirrors?

Kaptain Holister wrote:Looks like your headlight bracket is on back to front.
Have you got front blinkers and mirrors?

Haha yeah it is because it's too wide for the light, that's the easiest way to fit the headlight in securely. 

Blinkers are LED ones inside the headlight, not the greatest unfortunately and may consider swapping out. 

No mirrors at the moment but will be getting bar end ones when I get my clip ons.

Super stiff steering may have something to do with altered adjustment through top yoke removal / replacement?

rawdonball wrote:Super stiff steering may have something to do with altered adjustment through top yoke removal / replacement?

That was my initial thought, I'm assuming adjusting is just a case of loosening the top but and twisting the adjuster until it feels looser, so once I work out how to grip the adjuster I'll have a go. Might need a strap or some something on it... Maybe slip pliers..

Cheers

BUT. Wait for it.. BUT.. This epic ride was made up for by the fact I had the Vulcan fly over me really low on my ride. What a sight to see, and such a shame it'll be grounded forever very shortly!

One of my mates had a go on my bike and says the steering is super stiff, so I think that might be my next point of call!

Just found this on the BBC - Vulcan flying maybe you were under it

http://www.bbc.com/news/uk-england-south-yorkshire-34496676

Its worth it......like many years back having a 747 do a low speed flypast on its delivery trip to Dublin.....and in France a few years ago camped on the coast west of Toulouse an A380 on a test flight came low across from Toulouse. As it flew slowly over us at not much more than 500 feet with full flaps it went on a full throttle climb. Some things you never forget and that sure was one of them.

Standing under the Vulcan at Duxford made more of an impression on me than the Concorde parked alongside it.

Back to the K I reckon head bearings are one of those things to when you get a K.

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:Its worth it......like many years back having a 747 do a low speed flypast on its delivery trip to Dublin.....and in France a few years ago camped on the coast west of Toulouse an A380 on a test flight came low across from Toulouse. As it flew slowly over us at not much more than 500 feet with full flaps it went on a full throttle climb. Some things you never forget and that sure was one of them.

Standing under the Vulcan at Duxford made more of an impression on me than the Concorde parked alongside it.

Back to the K I reckon head bearings are one of those things to when you get a K.

It was definitely a sight to see!! It's flying it's last ever flight over RAF Waddington in Lincolnshire on Sunday if anyone fancies a look. And then it's grounded forever!

Back on the bike though, I'm gonna get he bearings checked this weekend hopefully so I'll see what's happening.

It was definitely a sight to see!! It's flying it's last ever flight over RAF Waddington in Lincolnshire on Sunday if anyone fancies a look. And then it's grounded forever!

Back on the bike though, I'm gonna get he bearings checked this weekend hopefully so I'll see what's happening.

But back to the Vulcan, I got to see one near Edinburgh (and they also have a Concorde but it was inside)



I must check my bearings as well.

That photo looks like a challenge... Haha

Ringfad wrote:I must check my bearings as well.

You mean you wanted to go to London but ended up in Edinburgh? I'd say you do need to check your bearings.

Here's a couple of views from inside a Vulcan.




Paul.

I was lucky enough to see the Vulcan while it was on its Australian tour sometime around the mid sixties. A sight I've never forgotten. The sound was totally awesome. My dad got some shots of it on 8mm as it did a very low fly-over at an airshow.

Kaptain Holister wrote:I was lucky enough to see the Vulcan while it was on its Australian tour sometime around the mid sixties. A sight I've never forgotten. The sound was totally awesome. My dad got some shots of it on 8mm as it did a very low fly-over at an airshow.

It's a cool sight, but honestly when I win the lottery I'm going to buy a spitfire. The sound of those is incomparable to anything. It sounds like someone is flying through the sky on a 30 litre two stroke haha. Love it!

I was a civilian worker on the RAAF base at Amberley Queensland when that Vulcan did a tour and the Air Show there, truely awesome.

My name's on the bomb bay doors somewhere. I was one of many who helped fund the original Return to the Skies.

Lancaster for me any day.

Even better my daughter was over from London last weekend and informed me that my future son in law's grandfather flew Lancasters in WW2.

Meanwhile someone needs to check his head bearings in case he ends up in Edinburgh a second time.....

The Lancaster was made by the same company that made the Vulcan and used the same RR V12 Merlin as the Spitfire.

I love the sound!!

But back on topic!
So today I've diagnosed my heavy/notchy steering-
The countries finest treacle tar, used in place of grease. So my lower head bearing was siezed and the top one was very stiff. Two more or order and the bottom one is partially off. Can't get the inner race out, but I'll keep trying!



How she currently stands!

Sorry, I can't seem to rotate the photos on my phone

Kaptain Holister wrote:The Lancaster was made by the same company that made the Vulcan and used the same RR V12 Merlin as the Spitfire.

But who would have twigged the Manchester and the Lancaster were the same thing. Apart from an engine or two.

Use a Dremel tool with a cutting disc to slice through the bottom race, then pry/pop it off.

robmack wrote:Use a Dremel tool with a cutting disc to slice through the bottom race, then pry/pop it off.

I considered this but didn't fancy chopping into the steering column itself. How much of an issue would it be if I did just "Nick" it a little bit?

That will work admirably.  The nick will be a weak point you can lever.  Use a screwdriver or cold chisel to crack the remaining metal and then lever off the race.  Even if ou are able to get a wedge in there to strech the metal, it might loosen its grip on the steering column. The deeper you can cut, the easier it will come off.

If you don't have a Dremel you can do the same trick with a hacksaw. You'll end up making a diagonal cut to avoid slicing into the yoke but it does work.

Drive a very thin knife blade under it then a thicker blade then you can get a lever at both sides and it comes of as easy as.

Sometimes even the heat generated by a bit of grinding I enough to heat up the bearing so it is easier to lever off.

Mike

JaseYPK wrote:
Sorry, I can't seem to rotate the photos on my phone

Heat is the best answer. I just stuck a welding rod to mine for a few seconds then a short sharp smack of a coal chisel and BFH, it will pop up. Have leather gloves on to whip it straight off. You can get straight on the collar if you mush the race first and take it away with all the rollers. A small sharp chisel or screwdriver in the corner of one of the cage openings and it will give way. the cage is not that strong. 

Clean the triple tree and freeze it overnight in a bag warm the new collars in the oven and it all goes back together noicely!

If you're going to use a welding rod, make sure you get to the bearing race while it's still hot. If you let it cool it will grip the stem even tighter (the weld shrinks the underlying metal). I use the bead of weld trick to remove recalcitrant BMW outer headstock races and Guzzi swingarm bearings because I'm buggered if I'm paying 100$ for tools I might use once every couple of years.

RicK G wrote:Drive a very thin knife blade under it then a thicker blade then you can get a lever at both sides and it comes of as easy as.

Worked for me, no damage to the dust shield either.

Al

So this weekend has been a successful one on two counts!

1) I got the remains of that inner race off - I used my Dremel, followed by a hammer and chisel as you guys recommended. 

The new bearing was stiff to get on, and I didn't have a press so didn't want to force it or use a hammer. I applied a generous amount of heat to the bearing and it fell onto the shaft without any effort at all. I'm genuinely amazed how much the metal must have expanded. 

So now the steering column is fully assembled and I can actually steer without using a hydraulic ram! Haha


2) In the process of sorting the front end out the brake system required bleeding, but the bleed nipples were stuck on well and truly. I managed to get them off without majorly rounding them using a lot of wd40 and heat. 

So my question this week is:

Since I've got the front callipers off, is it worth replacing bleed nipples with stainless ones, and stripping the callipers down completely to give them a good de-gunge? Or is it more hassle than it's worth since they work(ed) fine before?

Cheers!

Having used heat to help free the bleed nipples, I'd be inclined to strip them down and clean them out. Replace all rubber items of course. 

Re stainless, no problem that I'm aware of, but if they are going to be used more frequently than they seem to have previously, I'd make the judgement based on cost comparison. Are you in a corrosive environment? In Oz, we at least don't have to deal with salt on the roads. 

Bill

indian036 wrote:Having used heat to help free the bleed nipples, I'd be inclined to strip them down and clean them out. Replace all rubber items of course. 

Re stainless, no problem that I'm aware of, but if they are going to be used more frequently than they seem to have previously, I'd make the judgement based on cost comparison. Are you in a corrosive environment? In Oz, we at least don't have to deal with salt on the roads. 

Bill

Thanks for the advise, yeah we have a lot of salt on the roads in the UK unfortunately! Stainless it is then! Can you use copper grease on bleed nipples or is there a risk of contamination in the take fluid? I don't want stainless bolts getting stuck in the callipers...

Use anti-seize like you use on spark plugs.

JaseYPK wrote:So this weekend has been a successful one on two counts!

1) [...]I applied a generous amount of heat to the bearing and it fell onto the shaft without any effort at all. I'm genuinely amazed how much the metal must have expanded. 

It only takes a couple of thou.

2) [...]is it worth replacing bleed nipples with stainless ones, and stripping the callipers down completely to give them a good de-gunge?

Definately stainless bleed nipples. They look prettier for longer and they don't round off in our lovely salt-laden environment.

As for stripping and cleaning the calipers: check the wear pattern on the brake pads. If they've worn evenly then IMO you don't need to strip the calipers. What you can do is to carefully remove the rubber dust shield from the front of each piston (they stretch slightly) and then clean the crap off the inside of the calipers. Use a brass brush in preference to a steel wire one. Once they're clean, replace the dust covers.

If the pads have not worn evenly then the chances are you have one stuck (corroded) piston. A strip and rebuild will be necessary at this point. Don't necessarily buy the overhaul kit from a BMW dealer; do some price comparisons between BMW dealers and Moto Guzzi dealers. I think you'll find a P8 (also known as a P08 or F08) caliper overhaul kit is cheaper from Gutsibits than it is from either Motorworks or Motobins.

JaseYPK wrote: is it worth replacing bleed nipples with stainless ones, and stripping the callipers down completely to give them a good de-gunge?

Invest in Speedbleeders instead. You'll thank yourself every time that you need to bleed your brakes.

robmack wrote:

JaseYPK wrote: is it worth replacing bleed nipples with stainless ones, and stripping the callipers down completely to give them a good de-gunge?

Invest in Speedbleeders instead.  You'll thank yourself every time that you need to bleed your brakes.

+1



P.S. In future when trying to free of components it's best to use a proper release agent, not WD40.



Mike

mike d wrote:

robmack wrote:

JaseYPK wrote: is it worth replacing bleed nipples with stainless ones, and stripping the callipers down completely to give them a good de-gunge?

Invest in Speedbleeders instead.  You'll thank yourself every time that you need to bleed your brakes.

+1



P.S. In future when trying to free of components it's best to use a proper release agent, not WD40.



Mike

What would you suggest?

Thanks

Don't know about brands in UK, but anything labelled penetrating oil should do it. It needs to to work - to penetrate. 

Bill

indian036 wrote:Don't know about brands in UK, but anything labelled penetrating oil should do it. It needs to to work - to penetrate. 

Bill

Why is WD40 no good? I thought that was supposed to be decent penetrating oil? Or is that just what they want us to think...?

WD40 is basically a cleaner whose active component is kerosene. It is not a penetrating oil. The best penetrating oil is what you mix up yourself using 50% automatic transmission fluid and 50% acetone.

+1 to what Robmack says. Acetone is widely available on ebay as nail varnish remover. A gallon of the stuff cost me £14.95 - it's gone up a £1 in the last six months:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HIGH-QUALITY-GRADE-ACETONE-UNIT-QUANTITY-1-5-LTR-/181912575166?hash=item2a5ad59cbe:g:ViMAAOSwuTxWA-Rp

It's great for cleaning sticky shite and grease off too, but be careful with plastics. It reacts with some of them e.g. the black fairing screen for the RS. DAMHIK, but it took a lot of work with Autosol and T-Cut to get the surface smooth again.

As has been said. Have a look in any motor factor, even Halfords and you will find penetrating oil (e.g. Plus Gas)

Mike

Brilliant cheers guys.

The Mrs has actually got a bottle of acetone (for doing her nails with) so I'm sure I can pinch some of that!

indian036 wrote:Don't know about brands in UK, but anything labelled penetrating oil should do it. It needs to to work - to penetrate. 

Bill

Stupid autocorrect!

"It needs time to work - to penetrate."

Makes more sense that way..

Bill

indian036 wrote:

indian036 wrote:Don't know about brands in UK, but anything labelled penetrating oil should do it. It needs to to work - to penetrate. 

Bill

Stupid autocorrect!

"It needs time to work - to penetrate."

Makes more sense that way..

Bill

I thought you were just emphasising your point haha. 

"It needs to... TO WORK!.... TO PENETRATE!!!! "

Haha