When I rejuvenated my K75 turbo I got rid of that stupid brake line arrangement that goes through the steering head and replaced it with a braided SS line straight from the front master to the right caliper and then a metal line from the right caliper to the left one - so there's pretty much no "mush" in the brake lines.

I thought I'd max out the braking by installing some sintered pads that I had from a parts bike. I can't believe the "bite" of these pads.  Instead of being "linear" like regular brake pads, these things seem to be binary and brake way too hard at the slightest bit of pressure on the front brake lever.

I'm definitely going back to normal "organic" brake pads.

Just curious about other owners' experiences with sintered pads.

I don't like them at all like you said they bite hard right from the start, chew the shit out of the discs and leave a mess all over the wheels that can be difficult to shift if left till the end of a 1 week trip. It's not too bad if cleaned next day but if left for a week its bad news.
As for chewing the discs up, organic pads are a heap cheaper to replace than discs.
My first experience with them was when I fitted new rotors and discs all round on a Ford Fairlane and did about 60000 km in a year towing my race bike all over Oz and the discs were 1/2 gone and the pads were shagged. I replaced all again and used organic pads and although the pedal pressure had to be a bit higher they were near as good as new after another 40000km.
I was recommended to put them on the Kawasaki z1300 because they needed all the brakes possible but once again tore up the discs so needless to say I never used them again.

Never thought I'd be posting about a 2v K that brakes too well.

I use sintered pads (either EBC HH or the excellent Dunlopad) in the front on all of my bikes. I prefer their hard bite and they seem to possess the ability to send water away due to their heat and pressure bond which adds some impermeability to H2O. I've not yet had a bad experience even with high mileage levels. This is, of course, on four piston, floating brake disc versions.

I clean my regularly ridden bikes in Winter about every two months since it's so sloppy wet round these here parts, I rarely have the time or inclination. There's not too much scrubbing needs to be done on the wheels, etc., that a little wheel cleaner spray and nylon brush won't whisk away.

But I never use sintered pads out back due to their tendency to cause uneven brake disc wear, especially on K Bikes, R100RS', and my former R1100RS with the rigidly mounted Brembo caliper and fixed brake disc back there. The discs always seem to come away grooved over time. I reckon they're over-braked back there.

So my experience is generally good with sintered brake pads. All new front pads from BMW's OEM suppliers are sintered on all models. Duck, perhaps because you've made them so much more 'direct' than BMW did they're working much better and you can use the 'softer' pad material to good effect.

Just a couple hundred miles now using the EBC HH sintered metal pads on the front. It's the usual center pivot brake stem system and original brake lines going back 30 years, but braking is smooth and reliable so far. No plans to change right now (note: I've two extra sets of disks, so am not afraid to experiment.)

I've got EBC HH's front and back on the outfit, with an EBC floating disc on the back.

The only downside is the seemingly excessive brake dust, the upside being great braking.

I'm all in favour.

Paul.

Hi everyone,
I fitted EBC HH's and iron discs (rotors) to the front of my 1985 K100 RS.
Loved the braking effect but as my bike lives outside I found if I didn't use the bike for a couple of weeks the pads welded / rusted / fused to the discs. I had to start the bike and drive to break the bond.
Final straw was when the pad (fused to the disk) de-laminated from the backing plate.
Returned to stainless discs - less braking performance but no trouble.
I would have stayed with the iron set-up if I had indoor storage.
Incidently:
Has anyone any experience of fitting multi piston callipers?

thanks
Wingless

Define 'multi-piston'. I've just fitted a pair of Brembo 34/40s to LFB and I know Robmack has a set on one of his bikes. In both cases we upgraded the master cylinder too. I think Robmack used one from a later K1100/K1200, but as I've changed both of my handlebar switches for early Honda ones, I used a master cylinder from a Suzuki 1200 Bandit and fitted a remote reservoir. The end result was much more progressive and powerful braking.

I have cast-iron rotors but as LFB is used daily, rusting is not a problem. The real problem is the rust pitting the alloy wheels because I'm too lazy to wash them every day!

Steve1959 had braided lines and sintered pads, he ended up with organic (ebc?)pads and no braided lines to get some measurable increase in braking with lever pressure. he didn't like the all at once grab and wanted to be able to grab the brake lever and not be afraid of it.

I've got 4 piston R1100GS Brembos over 292mm Suzuki offset discs with a K1100RS 20mm master cylinder, HEL braided hoses and EBC sintered brake pads on my OZ RS and she about does two-fingered stoppies with superb feel and control.

Tried sintered pads on the front of my K1100LT. I lasted about three months then I bought a set of Ferodo organics. MUCH better. Despite the mess.

Sintered were OK at speed but when you're manoeuvring in a car park you don't need the front brakes diving the suspension every time you touch them.