1 ComberJohn's Ghost Wed Oct 07, 2015 12:11 am
Dai
Life time member
Well, he says the bike's still in his shed but he just can't find it. I think I'll leave him with that lovely misconception.
I have no intention of going for a show-winning finish; this is going to be more like a wash and brush-up. The only thing that will replaced from scratch is the wiring loom as I really don't want to get caught out by the failure of thirty year old wires while in the middle of nowhere. I also need a headlight and brackets of some description and a replacement fuel tank filler cap. Guess why.
When I got the bike John had already partly stripped it. This suited me well because it meant I didn't have to go much further to do a spline lube. I picked up a couple of boxes of parts and took them home in the car (see? passing my test was a Good Idea as it enabled me to get another K!). Unfortunately I then had to walk back to John's and push the rolling chassis home. 'Home' is mostly downhill from CJ but... I curse whoever thought it would be a good idea to put a
Bridgestone Trail WIng on the rear and a Metzler ME33 on the front. The chassis kept trying to turn into my legs (probably the forks not aligned properly) and I actually had to push the bloody thing downhill because the rear brake was binding slightly.
So... having got it home and now having two flying bricks, it seemed like a good move to build a jig to support the frame while doing a spline lube. I made as a bolt-together framework so that it could be stored flat against the wall when not in use. Yes, it does need/will get a coat of black Hammerite and also a top clamp as suggested by Bill (indian036).
Surprisingly, the swingarm came out really easily. I was expecting a similar fight to the one I had when trying to get the swingarm out of LFB (Low Flying Brick - my original K100). On LFB both the pivots were almost solidly corroded in; the rightside one still bears the marks of the fifteen-inch pipe wrench I used to break the corrosion seal with. As expected, the clutch boot was completely destroyed. The clutch bearings also had a light coat of rust on them but a good clean with a wire brush and a dose of Tru Blue grease later they were ready for re-use.
I hate cleaning the sh!t out of the gearbox castings. Nothing more to be said on that.
Again, surprisingly, the clutch arm pivot was completely free. When I got it off, I found out why - the original one had obviously seized and a PO had replaced the bearings with what appears to be bronze or brass bushes, then turned up a new pivot pin.
I didn't bother to check the clutch friction plate. Actually, I think that should be re-phrased as 'I couldn't be bothered to check the clutch friction plate'. I just hope it doesn't come back to haunt me too soon. While I was messing about in that area I replaced the gear position indicator switch with one I'd prepared earlier.
Spline lube completed and new clutch boot ordered from Motorworks (along with a s/h fuel tank filler cap), time to consider the next move.
I have no intention of going for a show-winning finish; this is going to be more like a wash and brush-up. The only thing that will replaced from scratch is the wiring loom as I really don't want to get caught out by the failure of thirty year old wires while in the middle of nowhere. I also need a headlight and brackets of some description and a replacement fuel tank filler cap. Guess why.
When I got the bike John had already partly stripped it. This suited me well because it meant I didn't have to go much further to do a spline lube. I picked up a couple of boxes of parts and took them home in the car (see? passing my test was a Good Idea as it enabled me to get another K!). Unfortunately I then had to walk back to John's and push the rolling chassis home. 'Home' is mostly downhill from CJ but... I curse whoever thought it would be a good idea to put a
Bridgestone Trail WIng on the rear and a Metzler ME33 on the front. The chassis kept trying to turn into my legs (probably the forks not aligned properly) and I actually had to push the bloody thing downhill because the rear brake was binding slightly.
So... having got it home and now having two flying bricks, it seemed like a good move to build a jig to support the frame while doing a spline lube. I made as a bolt-together framework so that it could be stored flat against the wall when not in use. Yes, it does need/will get a coat of black Hammerite and also a top clamp as suggested by Bill (indian036).
Surprisingly, the swingarm came out really easily. I was expecting a similar fight to the one I had when trying to get the swingarm out of LFB (Low Flying Brick - my original K100). On LFB both the pivots were almost solidly corroded in; the rightside one still bears the marks of the fifteen-inch pipe wrench I used to break the corrosion seal with. As expected, the clutch boot was completely destroyed. The clutch bearings also had a light coat of rust on them but a good clean with a wire brush and a dose of Tru Blue grease later they were ready for re-use.
I hate cleaning the sh!t out of the gearbox castings. Nothing more to be said on that.
Again, surprisingly, the clutch arm pivot was completely free. When I got it off, I found out why - the original one had obviously seized and a PO had replaced the bearings with what appears to be bronze or brass bushes, then turned up a new pivot pin.
I didn't bother to check the clutch friction plate. Actually, I think that should be re-phrased as 'I couldn't be bothered to check the clutch friction plate'. I just hope it doesn't come back to haunt me too soon. While I was messing about in that area I replaced the gear position indicator switch with one I'd prepared earlier.
Spline lube completed and new clutch boot ordered from Motorworks (along with a s/h fuel tank filler cap), time to consider the next move.
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1983 K100 naked upgraded to K100LT spec after spending time as an RS and an RT
1987 K100RT
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