Allen screws are frozen and not much chance of getting any WD40 around then. Heads rusty and the recess allen aperture has just rounded.
Charlie said that there a reference to this problem in the Bingara meeting post but i couldn't see anything in the 8 pages.
Tomororow I'll go hunting for a Sutton 4.8mm drill bit which will beat stainless steel heads, but since I'll paint the muffler black, I'm very tempted to take to the cover with metal shears and hack it off.

any other suggestions

hi dave ...I said we did a muffler change at bingara to seaniis bike ...and had pics of the muffler all polished up and without cover plate is all


\
heres albys as it left caferacers workshop



and on the bike .....modified somewhat

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ON9X05ccUK8

werewasi wrote:Allen screws are frozen and not much chance of getting any WD40 around then. Heads rusty and the recess allen aperture has just rounded.
Charlie said that there a reference to this problem in the Bingara meeting post but i couldn't see anything in the 8 pages.
Tomororow I'll go hunting for a Sutton 4.8mm drill bit which will beat stainless steel heads, but since I'll paint the muffler black, I'm very tempted to take to the cover with metal shears and hack it off.

any other suggestions

These screws are a proper pain - they get very hot, they get wet regularly, they're exposed to everything on the road (dirt, grit, salt). They don't need removing for any routine maintenance, so it's no surprise that when you do need to take them off, the little buggers are frozen solid (it is inexplicable though, how one or two manage to work themselves loose and fall off so that you get that annoying heat sheet rattle). As you have found out, most efforts to remove these screws result in rounding off the allen key slot. 

You could try cutting a groove across the head and seeing if a large flat blade screw driver will help shift them (applying heat to the screw, with a carefully directed blow torch, may help) but it is probably quickest just to drill them out. "Heads rusty" suggests that you don't have stainless steel fasteners - which makes drilling them out a little bit easier. Drill access can be a challenge though, especially on the top front one.

As for hacking the heat shield off with shears....you will find that it is a surprisingly tough customer.

Good luck.

tks B A E,
Is the shield not mild steel?
What about trying to get the heads off with a dremel. It's about time i got one.

charlie99 wrote:hi dave ...I said we did a muffler change at bingara to seaniis bike ...and had pics of the muffler all polished up and without cover plate is all


\
heres albys as it left caferacers workshop



and on the bike .....modified somewhat

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ON9X05ccUK8

Same problem here. One screw is frozen another is missing. Ive been on the road for the passed month so not had an opportunity to deal with it but I was going to use an 'Easy-out' to remove the stuck screw and replace all with clip-on nuts.
.
Charlie... is Bert 2.0 still doing those modifications? I've checked out his posts videos. I have something loose inside my muffler which starts to buzz around 4 to 5k rpm. Its not the heat shield as I've removed that and noise is still there. there's also a crack around the bottom rear shield bolt bracket which I was going to get welded up this week but now I cant get the shield off due to stripped head on the frozen bolt. That can wait now till I get home next week. I was thinking of a mod for the muffler anyway so that would probably resolve the buzz as well. Any thoughts??

Cheers

EDIT: Dave, try this google/forum search
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=exhaust+shield+bolts&sitesearch=k100-forum.com&gws_rd=cr,ssl&ei=jTWzVO2BOKPFmAX6h4DYCg

good ref posts to read.

don't think you'll be doing very much with an easy out!!

bert 2 is still in the industry ...and very busy   ..or so it seems

don't see him in the forum much now ....now that his "k" has moved on

I and a few other have passed by and visited on occasion ...
he does have a special expertise in metal working and is a great bloke

I had  considered buying him a bottle of gas for the tig machine ...as a reward  or something like encouragement to keep at it  and help us poor blighters out a little,  as this always seems to be an issue with irregular work at home    ...hand in pocket type stuff .

any modifications - fixes ..involve cutting the outer to get inside for the work ...you need a special type of guy to do that stuff


he did a great job on my centre stand some time ago now  and a few good "zorsts"  to a few members as well

it might pay to send bert2  a pm and ask if he is willing to do some work ? and if he has any further ideas ?

I cant guess at his response at this time

but I would still be "in" for a share buy of a gas bottle to help out ...im guessing about 80 - 90 bucks not counting wire , sundries and time spent



I have toyed with an idea of shipping some exhaust bits and pieces out of usa ...I have found an excellent supplier for all forms of collector  either in mild or stainless steel in many of the appropriate sizes for our old girls 1-1/8  in 16 and 18 gauge  ss   4 into 1 including the bullets, star former and a tool for the assembly process ...along with 2 into 1   ...3 into 1 and all that stuff  reducers ..expanders and all you could ever want .....just need to find a friendly American to act as a freight forwarding agent  to get some of it together .
would dearly love to have bert2 interested in the idea as well

my problem is the inconsistency of income to play with, and getting bert2 onside to do some thing pretty "out there" ....  like many of us

I suggested to dave to drill the head off the offending screws using short bursts at low revs with a good drill bit ..." Sutton " blue " drill bits are excellent, rather than the cobalt types  they take more distortion before breaking ...cobalt are very brittle and are susceptible to offset distortions and crack - sheer pretty easily ...but seem fine in a drill press with good vertical pressure  .

to me the basic stainless exhaust muffler is far too pretty and well engineered  to hide it behind a coat of black paint ...and with bert2 s mods sounds great ...although some folks like to cruise past unnoticed ...I would love to see some mods that keep it quiet but still an improvement on the original design ...controversial for some ..as many believe "if it aint broke don't try to change it "  bert2 and I agree ...why not ?

Yeah. I like the exhaust as is... with shield. I really like the classic lines of the K and although mine's going naked in the coming months I really want to keep it as orig as possible.
Quite a few people have commented to me how good the exhaust sounds but to be honest I feel its a little too quite and would like to up it just a notch.
I'll see if I can get a response out of B2
Cheers

Hmmm.
Have a staintune (or round muffler on No1) and i think it is much nicer than that great big square hunk on 2. Just sayin.. 
I have another 4 into 1 round thing (forget the brand) which someone spent some time adapting to a K, but am too scared to put it on here, so will try it out at Tuckurimba (rural). Suspect that it will be audible at Lennox Head, Nigel.

werewasi wrote:tks B A E,
Is the shield not mild steel?
What about trying to get the heads off with a dremel. It's about time i got one.

Heat shield is mild steel, but surprisingly thick and there's not much clearance between shield and muffler to get shears in. 

When I had heat shield issues on my (now donor) bike, I could not get 3 of the allen bolts out and, in desperation (this was in the days before I discovered this forum) I tried to cut the loose part of the heat shield off with a pair of tin snips. Failed - the snips were just not man enough for the job! Ended up taking my angle grinder to it - success!! That exhaust is now off the bike (ready to be used to support my current bike, if/when required) and still has the rear half of the heat shield firmly in place - I need to get round to drilling out the three frozen screws.

I was able to get all the bolts out of my current bike heat shield with the exhaust still fitted to the bike (2 had decided to depart company with the bike some where during the year) and replaced them all with stainless steel bolts and stainless steel captive nuts. Some more detail at https://www.k100-forum.com/t8842-rattle-coming-from-somewhere#103895

I keep meaning to buy a dremel too....an angle grinder is a little big for some of the more delicate jobs!! 

Drilling out the stuck bolts should be straight forward - it is helped by having the allen key socket to help centralise the drill bit. As Charlie says, if you carefully use a drill bit the same diameter as the bolt head, the heat shield will then lift off over the remaining part of the bolt - a little care is needed to avoid drilling straight through the heat shield as well! Alternatively, use a drill bit the same size as the threaded portion of the bolt (you will need new captive nuts anyway) - but even more care is required to ensure you don't drill right through into the muffler.

As for the other discussion on the K100 muffler...my tuppence ha'penny worth is that I'm very happy with the original fit. I particularly like that it is not noisy. I got caught behind a "Sunday ride out" group fairly recently and the rear bike was a noisy Harley. I guess there were 2 reasons why he was at the back - firstly because he was a Harley and that's where he belongs and secondly, cos those pipes were so darn loud - nobody would want to suffer the noise all day long. I was glad when I came to turn off the road after just a few miles!

tks B A E.
with that information (forgetting the tinsnips) I'll cut away the front piece only with the grinder so that i have access to the header clamp bolts and just get the whole thing off. 
Later on I do the drilling of the allen screws.
This is an RS that i bought from a druggie owner down at Evans Head (by the sea) and it was obvious that it wasn't going to be saveable if left for another year. I'll post a pic but the paintwork is very good (that nice 605 silver) and the motor seems OK. Almost new tyres which I am now running on K#1 but not in the wet. Surface çorrosion on frame and engine cases etc so a lot of cleaning up to do. All for $1200.
Idea is to club plate it (being an 85) and have it available to some K owner who wants to come to Australia for a big ride. Hopefully we can do a reciprocal deal.

Kaptain Holister wrote: I have something loose inside my muffler which starts to buzz around 4 to 5k rpm. Its not the heat shield as I've removed that and noise is still there.

 I don't know if this applies to the K100, but I had a similar noise on my K75.  Turned out it was the end of the clutch cable where it attaches to the actuating arm just touching the shell of the muffler.  I reduced the cable exposure at the end from 75mm to about 72mm, readjusted the clutch and the problem was solved.

You can tell it's the clutch when pulling the clutch lever in a tiny bit and letting it out results in a quiet "tink" at the bottom end near the muffler when the arm hits it.

I have come across that on 2 K75s having to take the exposed cable back to 72-73mm to stop the rattle.

anyone tried one of these?

http://www.bunnings.com.au/dremel-160-piece-rotary-tool-accessory-set_p6280032


can't even see the handset to see if it has the 984cc engine in it or 2 valve or 4 valve?

don't look grunty enough for what i have in mind.



http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/forum-replies.cfm?t=2358952

dremel is a great tool ... highly over priced for the times you are going to use it

unless you have a hobby for small parts and mechanical machining on a grand scale .... like model railways and such ...where the price difference is returned without question

you can find cheaper and more compatible tools if you look around a little...  most Chinese products  Rockwell etc have  a 1/8 inch arbour   and the dremel is different

Point-Seven-five wrote:

Kaptain Holister wrote: I have something loose inside my muffler which starts to buzz around 4 to 5k rpm. Its not the heat shield as I've removed that and noise is still there.

 I don't know if this applies to the K100, but I had a similar noise on my K75.  Turned out it was the end of the clutch cable where it attaches to the actuating arm just touching the shell of the muffler.  I reduced the cable exposure at the end from 75mm to about 72mm, readjusted the clutch and the problem was solved.

You can tell it's the clutch when pulling the clutch lever in a tiny bit and letting it out results in a quiet "tink" at the bottom end near the muffler when the arm hits it.

.75  Thanks for that. I'll check it out. I hope that's all it is.
Still need to change the shield bolts tho.
Cheers

It took me about 3 months to find it, nd about 10 minutes to fix.  Hope that's your problem, it's easy to fix.

Not the clutch lever or stands rattling against the muffler

I got that small crack around the rear/side heat shield bracket welded up last week. Seems to have done the job. Haven't heard any buzzing since.

Got the pesky heat shield bolt out by spraying with lub and left for the long trip home then hacksawed a slot and tapped a screwdriver into it. Came out easy.

Have now replaced all the heat shield bolts with new 6mm captive nuts and stainless allen head bolts.


Had to customise it a bit to get them to fit into the bracket.

Nice fix!

Very nice work Captain!

Stock BMW parts or did you have to hunt the parts down yourself?

6mm captive nuts $7 for pack of 2 from Supercheap Auto (bit pricey). Had to trim them down all round to get them into the brackets including grinding down the threaded nut.
SS bolt and washer from my local bolt shop... 30c each.
A small mod to each braket. Need to pry it out gently so as to create a bit more room for the captive nut.

I did something similar to hold my heat shield on, except that I used square stainless steel nuts in place of the spire nuts you've used. They were a bit loose in the cage but that didn't really matter once the allen screws had gripped them.

I would've prefered ss square nuts but I couldn't find any. I have a feeling the plated captive nuts I've used may corrode/rust badly after a while. Time will tell.