I have fitted Hayabusa switch gear, and now need to connect the bowden cables, however they have different ends.

The clutch cable has a 10mm diameter end, where as my GS500 clutch perch needs an 8mm (BMW adjuster is also M10 fine and clutch perch is M8).

The throttle cable has the chain/pulley system which is different to the Hayabusa one (I'll be using an R1 throttle tube for a quicker action).

Does anybody have experience with this?

Thanks

Motion Pro in the US make any sort of cable you need, with examples and specifications supplied to them, and inexpensively for a custom job, too. Surely with all of the moto racing support teams and world renowned fab workshops up the middle of England there'd be someone doing this there as well.

Google i' yo' fraynd. Try this link Venhill

I wrote that piece and I make my own cables, which is something you don't want to hear. To make sure you get the correct outer-to-inner ratio, do the following:

1. For the throttle, get a 'sacrificial' throttle cable that fits the R1 twistgrip.
2. Cut the nipple off the other end as close to the nipple as possible.
3. Cut the lower nipple off the BMW throttle cable and pull the metalwork off that sits in the throttle bodies and stops the cable sliding through (it may be plastic... depends on the cable. I've had both).
4. Fit that to the end of sacrificial throttle cable. 
5. Route the cable from the twistgrip to the throttlebodies and fit the cable stop into the throttlebodies - don't attempt to run it the 'normal' way and don't worry about the length of the cable for now.
6. Loop the inner over the throttlebody cable quadrant and pull it down to where the nipple fits into the quadrant. Pull it tight.
7. Mark the inner cable just the other side of the nipple slot.
8. Remove the cable from the bike and pull out the inner cable (you did make that mark indelible, didn't you?)
9. Lay the inner and outer side-by-side with the outside edge of the remaining nipple level with the end of the outer cable. Leave the cable stop on the outer cable.
10. Measure the distance from the end of the cable stop to the mark on the inner cable as accurately as possible. Add a centimetre!!!! You don't want a cable that gets made marginally too tight and most of a centimetre is easily taken up by splaying the cable to take the new nipple. The adjuster will take up the rest.
11. You now have the required difference between the inner and the outer for the new cable.
12. If the outer wouldn't route correctly, go back to the bike and figure out how long it needs to be. Having done that, just add (11) to get the new length of the inner cable.
13. Don't forget to give the cable stop to whoever is making the new cables!!

The clutch should be a lot easier. Use the original BMW clutch cable.
1. Hook it into the clutch arm
2. Route it as per normal
3. Slip the cable into the adjuster at the top as if you could push the nipple into the slot.
4. Measure the length of the exposed inner cable to the outer edge of the nipple slot.

Cheating way for the clutch.
1. Drill/mill out the 8mm nipple slot to 10mm. Get a machinest to do it because the hole has to have a flat bottom. The last one I did, I started with a standard 10mm drill, then progressively ground the end flatter and flatter until on the last pass I ended up with a drill bit that looked more like a milling cutter. You now get to use standard BMW cables.

Thanks for the info, I'm trying to avoid getting the cables made by someone else. I have the R1 grip on order, will need to wait for it.

For the clutch I ended up machining a new adjuster to screw into the GS perch, but with the end big enough to accept the BMW cable.
I had to cut the end off the cable as the end piece was too big to go through the adjuster (I didn't slot it).
I'm now waiting for an 8mm solderless nipple.

half brick wrote:I'm now waiting for an 8mm solderless nipple.

That will pull straight off the end of the cable at the most inconvenient time. I'll bet you a night out at St.James Gate, it will.

half brick wrote:Thanks for the info, I'm trying to avoid getting the cables made by someone else. I have the R1 grip on order, will need to wait for it.

For the clutch I ended up machining a new adjuster to screw into the GS perch, but with the end big enough to accept the BMW cable.
I had to cut the end off the cable as the end piece was too big to go through the adjuster (I didn't slot it).
I'm now waiting for an 8mm solderless nipple.

HB,
Just to let you know, solderless nipples are about as much use as an ashtray on a motorbike-it will fail.
Try Venhill, they'll have everything you need, I've had lots of parts from them. Their throttle housings are very good and can be bought with cable kits. I make my own cables either from scratch or modify a cable, it's not that difficult and if you need help let me know.

https://www.venhill.co.uk/Cables_-_Components_Kits

Had a feeling solderless nipples would go down well  

So for the clutch I slotted my adjuster and milled the lever to accept the 10mm nipple as advised.
The clutch now operates from the lever but if I put it in gear I can't turn the wheel with the clutch in. Is this normal? Not sure if this style of clutch can seize like a wet multiplate can (been sat near 10 years).

As for the throttle I have ordered a Hayabusa pull cable, should fit OK if I can get the old cable nipple to move on the throttle bodies 

My K11lt had been stood since '98 when I rescued it last year and the clutch worked OK. 
Is it adjusted up properly? I can push the actuating arm all the way up with my hand, try that with the bike in gear, the back wheel might spin freely. If not, I wouldn't worry too much. rocking the bike too and fro can often free up a sticky clutch assembly.

Yeah it's adjusted up right.

Pushing the arm in by hand is the same, I'll find out for sure when I next start it.

Hayabusa cable came, would work perfectly if it was a bit longer  

half brick, could you please take a picture how you connect the cables, I am sure this is beneficial for all of us here, something I'd like to do in the future also.

Got a Yamaha YBR 125 (fuel injected model) throttle cable to fit, just a couple of adjustments to bracket were required.

I'll take some pics when I take the air collector off as it's hard to see with it on. I also have a different 'choke' cable coming to mount it on the side panel.

Pics of clutch cable:





Throttle cable: Had to cut a bit off bracket and fit a spacer. Keeper plate needed trimmed and spaced.