Hi guys, I have changed my oil/water pump due to oil in coolant problems. Bought an exchange unit from moterwerks, but after fitting it, it leaked coolant from the exit passage on the sump plate . I used three bond 125 to seal the housings and left it 24 hrs to cure. There are no signs of leakage from the housing surfaces that I can see. Has anyone had a similar experience with an exchange unit?
or have I done something wrong?
Thanks for any assistance .
Bob

Were you careful to apply the 3bond to the exact path recommended in the manual and use the sealant very sparingly? The weep hole may have been blocked by excessive sealant and the return oil is trying to find another path out.  See THIS post.

Hi Robmack, thanks for the reply. I was very careful to follow the correct path for the sealant. The coolant leaked straightaway after filling, and is very clean, no oil in it, therefore I suspect that the mechanical seal was not fitted correctly at moterwerks. I will ring them tomorrow.
Such a pain having to drain the oil again.
Thanks again
Bob

Mine also leaked coolant when I refilled it after install, but have you turned the motor over?  When I turned the motor the seal suck itself to the shaft, something about them needing to be turned to seal?  I too had my seals replaced by a shop and bitched at then for not fixing it, and he said turn the motor over first, worked like a charm.  No leaks.

It's a BMW!  Only way to explain.

Bob

Hi Bob, I filled the coolant before turning the motor over.  I ran her for a while after seeing the coolant escaping down the oil drain hole, but didn't make any difference. I did think it might help the seal to seat itself, but it didn't. I suspect the "0" ring on the water inlet may not have sealed, and  travelled to the oil escape exit hole. I will reseal the unit again tonight . Two gaskets would have been nice Mr BMW.
Bob

Not a happy bunny.
Refitted pump again, being careful with goo following clymer instructions again, left 24 hrs, and hey ho instant water loss from escape hole on sump face . why is the hole threaded, was it for engineering purposes whilst drilling the sump bolt threads?.
Ran motor to see if seal would bed in but NO.
Cannot see how I got it wrong twice. no leakages from mating surfaces anywhere.

Question to the bods.
If i place the pump with the water impeller upwards and flat, and carefully pour some water behind the impeller, if the seal is bad , then water should flow to the escape channel, as long as the oil seal is good . Am i correct with this theory?
Will have to send the unit back to moterwerks. Not impressed.
 Hopefully they will pay the cost of sending it back.

Bob

The ceramic seal is busted. very easy to do so take it back and tell them to fit it properly this time. A lot of them hammer the seal in and that is usually as successful as putting rocks and fine china in a cement mixer and expecting to get the rocks crushed.

Yep the seal is broken, sorry to tell you, take it off and buy two new seals.....been there done that myself. 

Bob

Thanks guys,
I must admit to be somewhat surprised at the instant coolant loss through the " escape tunnel" , twice even.
This then presents a problem,
1. Do I trust them with another unit.
2. If a second unit seals properly, how long might it last.
3. I get my money back and strip my unit and inspect it for  repair in terms of shaft condition and do it myself
4. If my unit is unserviceable do I spend more money and go to motobins for a new unit at nearly £300.
The bike is low miles at 43k and I intend keeping her a long time so I guess £300 is not bad  if my unit is in poor condition.
She will stay in the garage  for a while anyway whenever  the snow comes.

Go to buy a bloody car now to get to work. grrr
Bob

I was busy at work and got mind done by an ex BMW friend. The shaft was also gone. I had asked him to replace the lot but he ordered the repair kit then had to go back for the rest, all despite my early insistence that he order and put in the lot.

Anyway when I was picking up the bike he told me it had a very slight drip and to keep eye on it and on the oil level. After a few days use it stopped and has not been a problem since. Its done lots of miles and motorway runs since. I topped up coolant at end of May and has not needed any since.

When I picked up the bike he had said that if it didn't stop he would do it again as he knew about the risky seal and the ceramic seal. The initial leak was about a teaspoonful. All is good now. I was a bit sceptical at the time but I know him over 40 years and he doesn't drive cars so I don't question his judgement. From experience he is always right and if its not he will fix it.

If all in indeed new as it should be going back in to do the seal is not so difficult. Get them to do it.

My experience of Motorworks has been good and never had an unresolved issue with them. Used and reconditioned parts do carry a risk and as far as I see they are good to sort them.

Give them a call first, if ithe part ts the problem they have been good to replace. Or a few photos and they may just send the necessary parts.

My experience of Motorworks has been good and never had an unresolved issue with them. Used and reconditioned parts do carry a risk and as far as I see they are good to sort them.

Give them a call first, if ithe part ts the problem they have been good to replace. Or a few photos and they may just send the necessary parts.

I have no doubt that moterwerks will take it back and give me another pump, I have to decide whether to strip mine myself or order another . If mine is serviceable I would like to rebuild it, the only way to learn is to do it yourself.
Bob

Moterwerks have sent a replacement pump so will fit that.
I tested the one that leaked from them by removing the rad to the pump inlet hose that runs through the head casing. I fitted it to the pump in a vertical position, and then with the pump impeller facing upwards and level in the vice, and with the water exit passage visible, I filled the hose so that the water filled the chamber up to the top of the impeller blades, with the thermostat still fitted . Water dripped from the exit hole immediately.
I then tested my own unit the same way, no leak at all.
I presume the oil seal had failed on mine mixing with the coolant.
I wonder whether the oil seal could be tested in the same way some how.
leave that to the bods.
I will test the second unit from moterwerks the same way before fitting it .
Perhaps moterwerks could test them before sending them out.
I have fotos but not sure how to get them on here. If someone sends me an email address i will send them on.
Bob

audibob wrote:I have fotos but not sure how to get them on here.

The easiest way I found to do the photos on here was just go to Google Blogger. Create a simple Blog, upload the photos to that and then, once your blog is updated, click "view blog ". Then just hover over the image, right click, select 'copy image location' then paste that in to the "insert an image" from your tool bar when you make a post on here and the image will appear

I use Google Picasa to host my photos.

Here is the water filled up to the Impeller.





This shows the Rad to pump hose being used to fill the chamber.








This shows the Moterwerks unit I fitted leaking..

Fotos taken on my smart fone so not the best quality.

audibob wrote:Fotos taken on my smart fone so not the best quality.

Glad you figured out how to get them on to here

Thanks for the help with getting pics on here, much appreciated.
I will try the test from the oil seal side on my pump using coolant as it is more viscous.  I do not expect it to drip like the coolant did as the seal was letting go under oil pressure , otherwise the sight glass would have emptied rather rapidly !!
Must invest in a decent camera for better close up fotos, .but you can see what I was doing .
Bob

Success...
This replacement pump did not leak so is now fitted the the bike, just have to wait 24 hrs to refill the fluids..

If those ceramic seals are put in too tight which is what is often the case then it will only start leaking when it cracks at startup. I don't wish to be a wet blanket but be aware of that. Twice I have had those seals go in too tight but being aware caught them in time and that is using the standard kit from BMW.

Thanks Rick,
I will remove the fuel pump connector and run the starter for a short while before firing her up.
Or maybe remove the plugs and turn her by the rear wheel, then use the starter.
Bob

YEAAHHHH.
I now have  a leak free pump. Coolant system full, fan cut in and out,  so can now get back to two wheels again.
New front battleaxe too, happy days.
Anyone rebuilding their pump might want to do the test I did, might save some time .
Bob

Awesome news man. Glad you got it sorted.

Now . . . go and ride around like you are drunk for a few hundred K's, weaving and leaning all over the place, and make sure that tyre is well worn in before you get into the wet with it

Thanks Be made.
Cant wait to ride her again though dry days first for a while to scrub the front in.
Bob

Bob, thanks for passing on the info!

I've fixed my waterpump myself and hopefully it will work ok. I'll try your water torture test before I install it (torture for me until I see that it doesn't leak!).

Charlie had a look at it yesterday as I was a little concerned how much effort is required to spin it. Charlie said it's fine.

Happy days indeed

Fingers crossed then...
Bob

good result bob

happy riding !

go on post those pics when you can tear yourself away from the thrill  ....grin

Here is my leak free pump and "Daphne" tucked up for the night in the garage.








Also due for a good clean at the weekend, happy days..