1991 K100RS16V

What causes this and what is the appropiate paint to use when I restore it?

https://i.servimg.com/u/f39/18/92/19/56/img_0210.jpg

and is my rear rotor wear normal?

looks to me as if it has already had a repaint

and not a very good surface preparation before final coat

just what I see

a few of the guys will had different ideas on whats the best paint and the right way to make it stick

Thanks Charlie!  I was hoping I could find a rattle can that was close.  I have a couple HVLP guns but have found that with adequate prep, something this small can be handled via aersol.

I have wanted to sell the old girl, but the truth is the only thing I don't like about it is it's appearance.  I'm leaning towards just putting another grand in her and trying to restore her to something close to her heyday (mine too @ 51!)

your up pretty early today, or it is out late?

I agree with Charlie in that it looks as though someone may have squirted the final drive without a good prep (it's not truly a differential, which drives two wheels).

The rear brake disc has, unfortunately, 'normal' wear and is likely due to being a fixed disc/caliper design. All of the BMWs using that type of rear caliper end up looking like this, which is the R100RS,/RT, R1100RS, R1150RS, and the entire early K75/100/11/12 series.

Thanks TWB.  I found out when I order the Spiegler brake line kit that the front calipers had been replaced with later model brembo's off a k1100s.  This final drive not looking factory original to the seasoned K-Bike owners makes me wonder what else I will discover the longer I own it.

I guess that's part of the fun right?

HellFishTat wrote:...  makes me wonder what else I will discover the longer I own it.

I guess that's part of the fun right?

Some of the fun ... Check the rear wheel play, especially lateral play.  It will indicate the state of those Paralever pivot bearings.  They have a tendency to wear quickly if improperly adjusted, causing drivability problems and eventual premature bearing failure.

BTW, you say you've got a K100RS-16V but the wheels look like K1200 ones.  Is that the case?

HellFishTat wrote: I found out when I order the Spiegler brake line kit that the front calipers had been replaced with later model brembo's off a k1100s.

A RS16V and K11's using the same front calipers.

robmack wrote:BTW, you say you've got a K100RS-16V but the wheels look like K1200 ones.

+1.

Inge K. wrote:

HellFishTat wrote:  I found out when I order the Spiegler brake line kit that the front calipers had been replaced with later model brembo's off a k1100s.

A RS16V and K11's using the same front calipers.

robmack wrote:BTW, you say you've got a K100RS-16V but the wheels look like K1200 ones.

+1.

or R1100

I did stick a R1200 rim on the rear.  Still searching for a decent front.  I had contacts with some of the guys from the R1100S/R1200S forum (owned a R1100s 3 years ago and still frequent the PelicanParts forum).  I just haven't pulled the trigger yet.  Trying to decide if I'm going to upgrade from this bike or not.

Now that I'm thinking about it, is there a shorter torque arm that I could swap (popular mod on the R1100s)?

RicK G wrote:

Inge K. wrote:

HellFishTat wrote:  I found out when I order the Spiegler brake line kit that the front calipers had been replaced with later model brembo's off a k1100s.

A RS16V and K11's using the same front calipers.

robmack wrote:BTW, you say you've got a K100RS-16V but the wheels look like K1200 ones.

+1.

or R1100

The front brake lines are REALLY tight (aka short).  The service writer at the local BMW dealer said they had been swapped out.  I was worried that the angle at the caliper would damage the lines, he told me not to worry.  Well, that's not really true, he told me to put a set of tyres on it and sell it, but that's another story

HellFishTat wrote:Now that I'm thinking about it, is there a shorter torque arm that I could swap (popular mod on the R1100s)?

That isn't a real smart idea. by doing that you remove the parallel factor from the paralever set up and that in turn causes massive opposing unequal actions within the drive shaft and it will tear the uni joints apart.
It may give an increase in clearance and more direct steering but is it worth the risk of what can and is likely to happen when the uni joint virtually explodes and locks the rear wheel and destroys the drive case and probably the swingarm.
The shafts in and out of the drive shaft that is the gearbox output and rear drive pinion shaft must be parallel for the uni joints to work correctly.

HellFishTat wrote:

The front brake lines are REALLY tight (aka short).  The service writer at the local BMW dealer said they had been swapped out.  I was worried that the angle at the caliper would damage the lines, he told me not to worry.  Well, that's not really true, he told me to put a set of tyres on it and sell it, but that's another story

He just wants you to buy a new bike. How many times do we hear stories like that.
I bought my K1100 from a guy who was told by the big dealer in Sydney to "sell it to the wrecker, it's shagged"
$1000 later and its as sweet as and back on the road and if the dealer was servicing it correctly NONE of the faults would have occurred.
If you take your bike to a dealer for servicing you are seriously neglecting your bike and that goes for any brand of bike.
I have worked for 3 of the 4 Japanese makers and they were all the same (Honda, Suzuki and Kawasaki and I know that Yamaha is just the same) Mechanics that take too long to do the warranty work or servicing usually don't last and you are encouraged to cut corners so extra profits are made.
There are plenty of good honest mechanics around and they usually are the ones who didn't last at the dealers because they wanted to do it correctly so it doesn't just come back again.

The rear disc does look a bit on the shagged side of things. Try to replace it with one for a K1100 they are a bit thicker and stronger.

Rick,

I understand what you're saying, but I've owned 3 BMW in the 20 years he's been the service writer and he's been a wealth of information.  Also, I have only had 1 paid service (replaced a fork valve in this K100) because the PO had screwed it up soooooo much that I just could not get it out.  I have alway purchased my tune-up parts from them, because I know it's good to have a rapport with your local BMW dealer.  On top of which they KNOW I will never buy a bike from them because I am a self proclaimed CHEAP BASTARD!  I''ll never buy a new bike.  I did that once in 1986.  Now that I am old and have the money and sense, if I want a bike, I will save (if needed) and pay cash.

Yeah fair enough I can see what you say in that you do know them and they know you.
I sure agree with the sentiment about buying new and I always have said the quickest way of getting rid of money is to buy a new bike or car.
I did buy the Kawasaki new but there were no second hand ones around in 1979 and if I wanted one then new it had to be and I was young, silly and had lots of loot but 35 years on I still have it.