Hi,  I replaced the Monolever transmission/drivetrain on my K75 with a Paralever from a 95 K1100LT.  I'm trying to get the clutch cable adjusted and it's not cooperating.   I've followed the instructions in the K1100 manual to the letter but cannot adjust slack into the cable.

I am wondering if it is possible that I should be using the K75 pushrod in the K1100 transmission, and not the K1100 pushrod that came with the Paralever transmission.  Can someone confirm or deny this?

Clymers says to replace the clutch cable if one cannot adjust the slack. I'm using the K75 clutch cable, which I know was fully operational with the original transmission and not stretched.  Could this symptom be caused by misrouting of the clutch cable?  I've chosen the most direct routing possible but I can detect a slightly greater resistance when the steering is at left lock.

You should use the K75 push rod they are different on the clutch end and the K100/1100 wont go into the centre of the diaphragm spring so the rod has the effect of being too long and so there is no adjustment.

Bingo!

Cheers Rick.  Luckily, I'm not too far along in the reassembly.  Means that it won't be a PITA to dismantle and refit the transmission.

+3

I've done three K75 paras and always used the K75 pushrod.

Cheers Duck.  Did you reuse the K75 piston assembly as well as the pushrod?

AFAIK Rob there isn't any real difference except that one type comes apart and the other stays together when you take them out and I think that is a year difference not model related.

Heh Rick,  Thanks for chiming in. 

I was thinking that I might have to reuse the K75 piston assembly because, as you pointed out, the K75 pushrod assembles from the spline side and press-fits into the bearing reaction ring, whereas the K1100 pushrod assembles from the withdrawal arm side and the piston merely sits in contact with the pushrod.  I doubt I can mix the K75 pushrod and K1100 piston assembly.  

So, when you say "stays together" do you mean the ball race and reaction rings are one fixed assembly on the K1100 and separate parts on the K75?  If the answer is "yes", then I totally get it.  What about the piston diameter however?  "Will it work properly if the model parts are mixed" would be my concern.

Early models did have a alu piston with a separate bearing.
Later models did have a plastic piston and the bearing in one piece.

The piston diameter is the same but the end of the 1100 push rod is different to the 75 so I would use the 75 throwout bearing to be on the safe side

The piston is the same for all classic Ks:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partxref.do?part=23131464167

Thanks very much to everyone who responded.  I swapped out the K1100 pushrod and substituted the K75 pushrod as well as reused the K1100 piston assembly.  I got back the cable slack I was missing and the clutch seems to be working.

So it seems that the type that are in several pieces are just falling apart or the others are stuck together. It doesn't matter much in the grand scheme of things just so long as you are one step closer to getting back on the road again.

Hi just wondering what you did about the shocker length as I have just done the same transplant to my k75c. I fitted the 75 shock at first but it sat too low so I stole the Hagon off my k1100 cafe.Works well and the shorter koni off the 75 has lowered the rear of the cafe which matches the front which was lowered. The 75 is a much nicer ride with the para and a disc at the rear. My next move is the k1100 throttle bodies ,picked up a set  just need to get time to fit them I believe it gives it a nice lift in performance .Will do a post when I complete the Tb swap cheers AB.   PS (I used the k75 pushrod with the k1100 bearing no problems)

I've fitted a RAM shock to the bike.  The bike sits high with the RAM shock but I still have to tune the suspension, get the sag proper.  It feels higher because the Corbin seat is wider at the tank than a standard seat, spreading my legs wider so that I don't get a full foot-down plant when the bike is stopped.  A lower shock would possibly help that problem.

I also love the feel of the K1100 Paralever drive on the K75.  It's very smooth.  And the K1100 transmission is much less "agricultural" than the K75 it replaced.

I also used the K75 pushrod with a K1100 piston.  Keep me posted about the TBs; I'm struggling a bit with mine at the moment.