Hi guys,
I,ve only had my K-100 on the road for two weeks and this is the first time the weather has warmed up above 25 c. I was riding in rush hour traffic and was feeling the love (warmth) of the engine but I was expecting that. I began to smell gasoline (petrol for some of you  ) so I pulled over to look for leaks. There was nothing visible on the ground, the motor sounded fine and I could hear the cooling fan running - yeah-. I turned the engine off thinking maybe some thing would drip but instead I heard a "tink..tink..tink" sound. Now I'm poking under the fairing looking at the rad and hoses. They were hot but not bulging or leaking. 
I followed the sound to be coming from the fuel tank its self. Popped the cap and got a big waft of gasoline vapour (not under pressure though) and sticking my ear to the filler it did indeed sound like a kettle on a slow boil!
My bike does not have a temperature gauge and the tank was hot enough to be uncomfortable but not burning to my bare hand.
Oh well, "that's just how it is " I thought and started it up and rode home with out incident.
The tank does have a thin foil and insulation cloth under the tank but I'm thinking maybe it's not enough. I would hope some of you southern hemisphere chaps would have some suggestions as I hear it's a bit drier and hotter than the Great White North (Canada).
I am only concerned about the fuel in the tank. The motor heat did not concern me at all and the coolant levels and temps did not fluctuate. 
Any help would be appreciated as always,
Rob

I put a fuel cooler on my K1100 because the tank was getting far too hot.
I used a small auto trans cooler and mounted it in the return line and in front of the radiator on the outside of mesh.
It works quite well.
The cooler is about 100 x 150mm and 20mm thick with 10mm barbed fittings but the fuel hose stretched over them.

many heat related issue have been noticed across the span of time ...seems many don't have the same issues and round here if the temperatures are under 20-25  odd degrees c  no issues are noted on a typical ride conditions .

there are quite a few suggested heat related solves out there

for me ...insulating the fuel hoses with airconditioning  pipe insulation (cheep and effective ) is a good start

many have upgraded -refurbished the under tank insulation  with good results

dynamat  has been tried as an insulation suggestion

I also have installed a return line ( lower pressure )  oil cooler (almost exactly the same as ricks ...different paths though to find the right thing )

the difference between before and after is quite amazing

meanwhile I choose to travel with the lower fairings off  ...on my rt

I have additionally removed the radiator fiberglass fairing section ...and trialling something else to push some air through the radiator whilst travelling

in addition I have installed a small scoop - wind deflector under the main fairing front section ...which removes the vacuum bubble  that forms behind that big fairing and screen (and traps a heap of heat around the tank area as it sucks up from the motor area )

end result is good ...although some refinement is on going

tank temperatures have decreased from  the boil point ...as you have noticed   to something very different and comfortable ...now

best and first thing I can suggest is ....replace the thermostat in the cooling system ...( I have seen 3 here that are "past used date" ) not only do they not open fully , they fail to block the bypass tube properly  letting high temperature fluids bypass the cooling radiator system properly and enter back into the water pump at super high temperatures ( over boiling point except for the glycol mixes added )

this cannot be a good thing



.





hope that is a primer for heat issues

good luck !

Team, he's living in Canada! Probably happy his nuts are just about to defrost :-).

Have a look in the tank with the engine running, it could be that you have a leaking pressure line or the filter and this might spill over into the tank breather line that exits on the right-aft side under the tank. Or just fuelled up with the tank brim-full?

Hi Charlie,

Great info there mate!

Where did you (and you too RIckG) source your fuel coolers from? Is calling the wreckers and asking for a small automatic transmission cooler going to get the result im after? Oh, I see yours is an oil cooler Charlie...off a motorcycle?

Also, where did you get your aircon pipe insulation?

Oh, and (sorry...) is the thermostat a standard item available at an auto shop?

My fan is seized too...need to sort that bugger out.

I got mine from the local auto shop and it is exactly the same as Charlie's

Well, I can see Canada from my rear deck (just kidding). And, I've been experimenting with adding insulation to various regions. So far, no tank heating, but the real weather is not for another month. :@: 

Right behind the fan is a well on top of the engine where I've added a thick piece of insulation (square). Also, under the tank, on top of the wiring at either side of the frame, is added two strips of insulation. Then, when assembling the RT faring, added two more strips of insulation under the glove boxes extending back to roughly where the trim dives down in front of the knee.

The purpose of all these little bits is to keep the heat from rising up and around the tank.

The last piece of the puzzle is to fiber-wrap the header pipes. I've acquired the wrap, but have switched to custom exhaust this year and so haven't used it. Fiber wrap keeps heat from the pipes from rising, and helps make the engine run more efficiently (read, more horsepower). I'm surprised nobody has suggested this before, it seems a natural solution especially since the pipes are stainless and not prone to rust.

I doubt these ideas will will work for the deserts of Australia, but should be enough for this part of the world.

Got any dyno results to prove that wrapping the headers measurably improves HP?

Without real data, I'm not buying it.

If you are running a turbo it can have a bit of an advantage (as in heat is energy and get it to the turbo, don't lose it before it gets there) but I have never heard that it is better for a naturally aspirated engine

Floyd   the bmw thermostat would probably just need replacing  and may be the best option for most everybody ,

but if you are up for a challenge 

you can read what I did  here

https://www.k100-forum.com/t1833p650-85-rt-resto-my-attempt-hey-im-not-into-making-a-show-bike#88242

I also documented the cooler in the same thread
this might not be a recommendation for of us that travel in cooler climates


the airconditioning insulation is easy to find ...most hardware stores carry it  I think 12 mm id is a fairly common size  and it does expand around the fuel pipe quite easily ( the external diameter is about 40mm x 1 metre long ) it adds a heap of thermal insulation numbers

the blanket type heat shield mod under the fuel tank is also employed by quite a few folks with good results

Hi guys,
Well those responses have given me much insight, including that Sarah Palin has moved to New Hampshire and bought a motorcycle (USA in-joke but may be enjoyed by Canadians and Aussies too if they think their politicians are balmy).
With the temperature fluctuations here I may hold off on the in-line cooler unless I find something appropriate and concentrate on insulating the lines and maybe a thicker tank pad for now.
Much thanks,
Rob

Google "Johnny Blanket.  It may help with the heat to the tank and to you.  I have the name of a gentleman that makes a form of the old K-Guards if you're interested in moving the heat away from your legs

Hi there, I live in a tropical desert (rains less than 600mm/year) day temp from 31 to 40+, use to climb from sea level to near 1200 or +4000mts, many times on heavy traffic. Had a fuel boiling issue while testing / restoring the bike, and that was here at home, but since put the tank and fuel lines isolation never again.
Best regards
JAP

hey,
I went for nice long warm pre-summer evening ride tonight. Ahhhhh! The reason for motorcycling all came back to me. The magic returned and I am hooked again.
I'll look into that Johnny blanket but since I wasn't in stop-and-go traffic the temperature didn't seem that bad.
On JAP's comment on riding at altitude I do not have the plug-in devise with my tool-kit. There is a two prong female recepticle just below the left side of the fuel tank by the coil cover. Is this the altitude plug and if so does the plug require any resistance or is it just a shunt?
Ride on,
Rob


Hee, hee... Just Googled "Johnny blanket" and E-bay wanted me to bid on a blanket once sweated on by Johnny Depp!
Will be going to Home Depot tomorrow for the real one.

don't forget to get a new thermostat ...and get it fitted  
just a heads up

There is a two prong female recepticle just below the left side of the fuel tank by the coil cover. Is this the altitude plug and if so does the plug require any resistance or is it just a shunt?

Hi, I´ve read both, shunt and resistance, did try the shunt and it´s been working for the last 6 years.
Best regards
JAP

It is a shunt and changes the signal from the throttle position sensor that the computer sees

k-wopper-w900 wrote:hey,
There is a two prong female recepticle just below the left side of the fuel tank by the coil cover. Is this the altitude plug and if so does the plug require any resistance or is it just a shunt?
Ride on,
Rob

Before putting a shunt or a resistor, be sure that this is the altitude plug.
Some bikes have a 2 prongs socket (white color) to power a BMW powerlet socket.

Here's a link to a Heat Management guide for K=bikes  

http://www.google.com/urlsa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=7&ved=0CE4QFjAG&url=http%3A%2F%2Fkickstarter.org%2Fforum%2Findex.php%3Faction%3Ddlattach%3Btopic%3D6885.0%3Battach%3D12585&ei=wGl3U_K6E9ejqAblrYK4CQ&usg=AFQjCNETPBGwdwL3w-kjScFQWmVdR_T0RQ

You're referring to the altitude plug as the small cylindrical plug wire tied to the frame, correct?  It is a shunt and the loop insert completes the connection.  It just makes leans out the mixture to accommodate +3000' (1000 meter) thinner air. (partial pressure of O2)  If it is something you need to use regularly, you can cut the plug and add a dash switch Hazard switch works fine. To make it clear what it does, scrape the bottom leg off a hazard symbol inset so it looks like a mountain  ^

yeah it's seems to match up with the description of the altitude plug. It's just that I couldn't find a picture of it to be sure. I do have a factory aux plug next to it with 12vdc. There is no voltage or continuity through the alt sw though.
 If I ride more than one hour East or North it would come in handy because we got plenty o' big hills here and a dash switch with a mountain logo would be cool.
Thanx
Rob