At this link: http://classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/solder101/solder101.htm

Very nice! Thanks!

Anything less than a 60 watt soldering iron is a waste of time, especially on lead free solder, which has a higher melting point than lead solder. When soldering vehicle wiring I use a 100 watt Weller instant heat gun, or a gas powered portable iron on smaller stuff. The exhaust port from this is very handy for shrinking small heat shrink tubing. I have been using solder for the past 35 odd years, and I detest the lead free stuff. It's a pain to remove it from P.C.B.s. My 60 watt temperature controlled bench iron has to be turned up to max to melt it, and even then it wont flow easily into the de-soldering braid. I still have a supply of lead solder, which I will use as long as I have it.

Avenger GT wrote:Anything less than a 60 watt soldering iron is a waste of time, especially on lead free solder, which has a higher melting point than lead solder. When soldering vehicle wiring I use a 100 watt Weller instant heat gun, or a gas powered portable iron on smaller stuff. The exhaust port from this is very handy for shrinking small heat shrink tubing. I have been using solder for the past 35 odd years, and I detest the lead free stuff. It's a pain to remove it from P.C.B.s. My 60 watt temperature controlled bench iron has to be turned up to max to melt it, and even then it wont flow easily into the de-soldering braid. I still have a supply of lead solder, which I will use as long as I have it.

indeed avenger ...same here ol mate

 I have noticed lately even the normal solder seems to need a bit more heat ....or am I becoming less patient with things ....(read grumpy old man syndrome eh?)....grin

Good writeup.

I'll add a few tips of my own:

• always mechanically fasten the parts to be soldered.  Solder is a poor "glue".
  
• always keep the tip of the iron very clean.  I wipe my iron on a brass wool pad before each and every use.
  
• Make sure the wires to be soldered are clean as well.  Corroded wire, even minor corrosion, will not solder well.
  
• Apply the solder from the opposite side of the heat.  Solder will always flow towards the heat source.
  
• If the solder has trouble melting, it's probably because the heat from the iron is not conducting.  To encourage it, I sometimes (1) remove the iron and clean the tip (2) reapply the iron and touch the junction with a little solder.  That usually gets things moving again.
  

I rarely twist the wires together .  This creates a big clump at the joint  My technique is to fan each end of the wires to be joined.  Then I interlock them as one would do when interlocking ones fingers.  Then I twist.  This always creates a joint with a thin profile and good solid mechanical locking.

Oh, shit!  I inadvertently started another oil thread. 

I hold one piece in my left hand, one piece in my right hand, the solder in my mouth, soldering iron in the vice and if I burn myself more than twice I buy a new part.

rossko wrote:I hold one piece in my left hand, one piece in my right hand, the solder in my mouth, soldering iron in the vice and if I burn myself more than twice I buy a new part.

It's obvious what your problem is.  The soldering iron should be between your knees.

duck wrote:

rossko wrote:I hold one piece in my left hand, one piece in my right hand, the solder in my mouth, soldering iron in the vice and if I burn myself more than twice I buy a new part.

It's obvious what your problem is.  The soldering iron should be between your knees.

+1

K-rider

hmmmm . .  talk about a HOT tip! . . . . .