Lads, RT has v.kindly donated a top box for my Yellow Peril. The box fits perfectly on the ducktail rack, with no "slop" left/right and fore/aft. Spent some time grappling with mounting the thing so that it doesn't fall off whilst in the middle of nowhere (as things are prone to do) Experimented with all sorts of things, but nothing really satifactory. The line of least resistance is to bolt it directly to the ducktail, but will result in two unsightly holes either side of the BM badge.

RT mentioned that there should be another sort of mounting bracket doo-dad, which has been long gone. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.










My metal bashing skills these days are somewhat non-existent, (NOT like SCP's!!) but am willing to give it a go. The lid has been removed supposedly for ease of fitment.

Rickmeister.

Ulrick, here's a pic of the parts you need.

a closer reminder on how it attaches uli

shouldn't be too hard to bend something up ...the original has no other fixings other than an interference fit to the rear frame ( around the outside ) other than some reasonable thick density rubber to hold in place along the length of the adaptor , that interferes with the cowl  to hold it in place

I can see how they would become loose and get lost .. as "kbike" suggested some while ago, if the foam deteriorated somewhat

perhaps a modified (thinner ) threaded nut welded in the centre of the bracket ...and the "right sized bolt " 10- 12 mm thread ...and some largish sized washers to act as a buffer from the plastic bits before a wave washer to keep tension ?

I guess the old bushies "drilled through bolt head " and attached wire loops could act as the tensioner -unscrewing device ??

The parts you are missing, is sold as a set...
Mounting plate, dzus bolt and washers, part # 46 54 2 316 755.

Rick , let me know if you need a better view of it all, I can bring mine around for speculation , and / or copy a new centre plate .
hopefully you don't find out why they call them a "suicide lid", as a few , like myself have.

Oh Grasshoppers, one day you will see the light and realise that RT's velcro straps are THE only answer to contentment and wellbeing whilst riding.
Back to  my mung bean soup.

Rick , here are some previews of the base plate which sits inside the frame that bolts to the ducktail , did I get that right?

for anyone like Rick needing to fabricate a replacement plate,
 I would suggest getting hold of 2 x 40mm x 2mm mild steel flat bar @ 190mm long , and 1 x 75mm  x 2mm C section @ 190mm long.
by giving the flats a slight bend ( curve ) , maybe a 5mm flex should do it.and a double 90 degree bend at each end.
 reduce the side walls of the C section to 10mm , and then prepare it with a matching curve to the flats.
set your flats parallel with a maximum outside span of 140mm, and centre the C section face down on the flats lengthways. 


the plate is approx. 2mm thick pressed steel.
175mm front to back, 140mm left to right ( for foreigners , right to left).
the small square sits at the front.


there is no real reason for the small square that I can see, anyone else have ideas ?




total base to surface thickness is 15mm, with he curve , it has a total height of 20mm.



I would weld a nut to the underside of the C section, to provide anchorage of the topbox in lieu of the quick release pin.
you will need some soft packing fixed to the underside to protect your ducktail paintwork.
mine has cotton waste felt. less chance of rubbing paint off.



with a grinder ,cut off saw , welder and some other simple tools , this is achievable.
hope this helps .

groverK wrote:

there is no real reason for the small square that I can see, anyone else have ideas ?

Underside the topbox it's two spigots that fits into this small square.
The purpose is to lock the mounting plate, so move it don't can move forward.

It saves a lot of time, as you don't have to go back and search for the lost topbox.

thanks Inge , I haven't yet turned my box over, as it is still full . time for a spring clean.