Started my bike 85 k100 RS idle was low and it stalled. Started it again same thing. Third time it blew the instrument panel fuse #1 With key on and kill switch on everything on headlight, turn signals, horn no brake lights. Turn kill switch off natural position and it burns the fuse. Tried a higher fuse and same thing. Ok I'm a novice at this so bare with me. I have continuity at the contacts with the fuse out and the key off. I'm thinking this isn't right because none of the others do. I unplugged the instrument panel the two long plugs with no change. Had power to the # 6 plug with the fuse out.  Then I unplugged the shifter plug the 4 prong one under the right side panel and still no change. So am I on the right path and where do I go next. Sure could use some help trying to figure this out. The weather is starting to get real nice in Colorado and I would really like to go for a ride.   Thanks

Which fuse is blowing up?
Next thing to do is to unplug the handlebar switches (2 plugs under the tank) and see what's happen.
this schematic may help to troubleshoot

Do not put a 'bigger' fuse as it may start a fire.


As you may burn many fuses before finding the problem, you would be better to replace the fuse with a small breaker that you can reset.

Crazy Frog wrote:Which fuse is blowing up?
Next thing to do is to unplug the handlebar switches (2 plugs under the tank) and see what's happen.
this schematic may help to troubleshoot

Do not put a 'bigger' fuse as it may start a fire.


As you may burn many fuses before finding the problem, you would be better to replace the fuse with a small breaker that you can reset.

Changed my original post a little hope it makes more sense. Its the # 1 fuse. Thanks for the colored schematic it helps a lot. I unplugged the two handlebar plugs and still get continuity across the #1 fuse connections with the key off. What next I really appreciate your help.

buisoma wrote:
Changed my original post a little hope it makes more sense. Its the # 1 fuse. Thanks for the colored schematic it helps a lot. I unplugged the two handlebar plugs and still get continuity across the #1 fuse connections with the key off. What next I really appreciate your help.

Are you talking about fuse #1 (top) on the bike or fuse marked #1 on the diagram?

Crazy Frog wrote:

buisoma wrote:
Changed my original post a little hope it makes more sense. Its the # 1 fuse. Thanks for the colored schematic it helps a lot. I unplugged the two handlebar plugs and still get continuity across the #1 fuse connections with the key off. What next I really appreciate your help.

Are you talking about fuse #1 (top) on the bike or fuse marked #1 on the diagram?

Fuse #1 on the bike marked instrument on the cover

Does the bike have OEM heated grips?  Do you run them on low very often?

The resistive wire for the low setting can heat up and melt its insulation, causing shorts.  (HGs are on the #1 fuse.)

duck wrote:Does the bike have OEM heated grips?  Do you run them on low very often?

The resistive wire for the low setting can heat up and melt its insulation, causing shorts.  (HGs are on the #1 fuse.)

No heated grips

I also wanted to ask a stupid question: I that any mice in the area where the bike was stored? Don't ask why I am asking that......

Crazy Frog wrote:I also wanted to ask a stupid question: I that any mice in the area where the bike was stored? Don't ask why I am asking that......

Good question bike was stored in a garage and had not run in 10 years. I did clean up some mice droppings around the motor. I got it running 3 months ago and have only put about 20 miles on it because of winter.

What I always stress to my computer technicians is that when you troubleshoot, it has to be sequential...
What does it means is that you don't jump from A to Z then X to Y but A to Z then A to Y or AA then AB.....
I believe you should unplug everything like brake switch, computers,.. .
Then you plug everything back one by one monitoring if the fuse is still OK.

Check the wiring to the clutch switch.  That's on the #1 fuse too.

buisoma wrote: With key on and kill switch on everything on headlight, turn signals, horn no brake lights. Turn kill switch off natural position and it burns the fuse. 

If the fuse OK when kill switch is in on position, but blows when the kill switch is turned to off ?............the problem must be in the RHS switch assy.

duck wrote:Check the wiring to the clutch switch.  That's on the #1 fuse too.

Where is the clutch switch

It's at the clutch lever - it lets you start the bike if the clutch is pulled in.

duck wrote:It's at the clutch lever - it lets you start the bike if the clutch is pulled in.

Disconnected the plug still no change

buisoma wrote:

duck wrote:It's at the clutch lever - it lets you start the bike if the clutch is pulled in.

Disconnected the plug still no change

Ok I disconnected the handlebar plugs 2 the console plugs 2 "the long skinny ones" the shifter plug and the clutch plug. I then put my fuse in and turned the key on and had the kill switch on ready to start. I then plugged each switch back in one at a time. They held  after a couple of tries one time the fuse blew turning the key on and off another when I was checking the shift lever checking for natural. The third time it held even when I turned the key on and off. What I don't have is brake lights a natural light and it won't turn over. Any help would be appreciated I believe were getting closer.

I;d be inclined to check the wiring from the ignition switch to the connector under the tank, you can remove the whole thing and check for a short to the frame, that will be anywhere that the wires might have touched the frame, the black sheathing may be worn through and causing trouble, same can be said for the r/h switch wires where the kill switch is they may have worn through somewhere, if not obvious on the sheath then perhaps a squashed part of the wiring harness has damaged the insulation inside the sheath and you may have to go inside and find the damaged wires if that is of any help

Inge K. wrote:

buisoma wrote: With key on and kill switch on everything on headlight, turn signals, horn no brake lights. Turn kill switch off natural position and it burns the fuse. 

If the fuse OK when kill switch is in on position, but blows when the kill switch is turned to off ?............the problem must be in the RHS switch assy.

A Prophet in his own time I see. I wonder how long it will take them to find it?

K75cster wrote:I;d be inclined to check the wiring from the ignition switch to the connector under the tank, you can remove the whole thing and check for a short to the frame, that will be anywhere that the wires might have touched the frame, the black sheathing may be worn through and causing trouble, same can be said for the r/h switch wires where the kill switch is they may have worn through somewhere, if not obvious on the sheath then perhaps a squashed part of the wiring harness has damaged the insulation inside the sheath and you may have to go inside and find the damaged wires if that is of any help

Sounds logical I have the day off today and will check on the wiring you mentioned and will get back on what I find. Is there a connection to the brake lights not working. Thanks guys I really appreciate your help.

buisoma wrote:

K75cster wrote:I;d be inclined to check the wiring from the ignition switch to the connector under the tank, you can remove the whole thing and check for a short to the frame, that will be anywhere that the wires might have touched the frame, the black sheathing may be worn through and causing trouble, same can be said for the r/h switch wires where the kill switch is they may have worn through somewhere, if not obvious on the sheath then perhaps a squashed part of the wiring harness has damaged the insulation inside the sheath and you may have to go inside and find the damaged wires if that is of any help

Sounds logical I have the day off today and will check on the wiring you mentioned and will get back on what I find. Is there a connection to the brake lights not working. Thanks guys I really appreciate your help.

Went out to start work on the wiring moved shifter down then up to neutral and blew The #1 fuse. Anyone have any ideas.

buisoma wrote:

buisoma wrote:

K75cster wrote:I;d be inclined to check the wiring from the ignition switch to the connector under the tank, you can remove the whole thing and check for a short to the frame, that will be anywhere that the wires might have touched the frame, the black sheathing may be worn through and causing trouble, same can be said for the r/h switch wires where the kill switch is they may have worn through somewhere, if not obvious on the sheath then perhaps a squashed part of the wiring harness has damaged the insulation inside the sheath and you may have to go inside and find the damaged wires if that is of any help

Sounds logical I have the day off today and will check on the wiring you mentioned and will get back on what I find. Is there a connection to the brake lights not working. Thanks guys I really appreciate your help.

Went out to start work on the wiring moved shifter down then up to neutral and blew The #1 fuse. Anyone have any ideas.

Have you ever felt like you just wanted to scream.
Worked on my bike today cleaned all the ground bundles I could find inspected all the wires I could from ignition, clutch, console and really couldn't find anything that looked bad or had been chewed on by mice. Put everything back together and everything worked. I had a neutral light turned the key on and off and the fuse held. So I put everything back together and started her up I was all excited. So I went for a ride. One thing I noticed was the clutch was soft and didn't disengage unless you held it all the way in. I just figured it was out of adjustment. Anyway I got about two miles down the road and stalled the bike taking off from a light. Went to put it in neutral and pop there goes the #1 fuse again and again. Had to now call home for a trailer to pick up me and my bike. Not sure if its connected or not but when I laid my bike on its side stand the clutch was hard real hard and when I stood it upright the clutch was very soft to squeeze. Does any of this make sense to anyone. I'm just so frustrated not sure what to do next. I would appreciate any advice.

You will have to be VERY methodical about this. Write down each step as you go and don't rely on memory as to what was checked etc. I would suggest finding why the stop light doesn't work as a first step (this may well be the same fault)
As Crazy Frog said disconnect every plug you can find on the bike including the one behind the tail light and the ECU and ABS computer (if it has ABS).
Remove all the fuses.
Plug the ignition switch in first and insert the relevant fuse. Work on one system at a time like the ignition (which is where the problem probably is) and when you have eliminated the possible causes from that system move on to the lighting system. Follow the circuit diagram through and do things in order as they are shown on the diagram.
As Inge has said I think you will find the fault in the RHS switch block or wiring associated with it.

RicK G wrote:You will have to be VERY methodical about this. Write down each step as you go and don't rely on memory as to what was checked etc. I would suggest finding why the stop light doesn't work as a first step (this may well be the same fault)
As Crazy Frog said disconnect every plug you can find on the bike including the one behind the tail light and the ECU and ABS computer (if it has ABS).
Remove all the fuses.
Plug the ignition switch in first and insert the relevant fuse. Work on one system at a time like the ignition (which is where the problem probably is) and when you have eliminated the possible causes from that system move on to the lighting system. Follow the circuit diagram through and do things in order as they are shown on the diagram.
As Inge has said I think you will find the fault in the RHS switch block or wiring associated with it.

Thanks for the advice I will start over and definitely document everything.

That year model of K-bike has a mechanical clutch/sidestand interlock.  It's normal for the clutch to be hard to pull in with the sidestand down.  If the interlock is adjusted properly the sidestand will retract when you pull in the clutch.

The fuse blowing when shifting is very suspicious.

The gear position indicator circuitry to the cluster is a ground based circuit. 

I'd guess one of two things is occurring:

a) One of the GPI wires is shorting to one of the 12V circuits somewhere in the wiring harness.

b) If it only happens when shifting to neutral then the 12V output from the cluster to the right combo switch (start button) is shorting somewhere.

buisoma wrote:

buisoma wrote:

buisoma wrote:

Sounds logical I have the day off today and will check on the wiring you mentioned and will get back on what I find. Is there a connection to the brake lights not working. Thanks guys I really appreciate your help.

Went out to start work on the wiring moved shifter down then up to neutral and blew The #1 fuse. Anyone have any ideas.

Have you ever felt like you just wanted to scream.
Worked on my bike today cleaned all the ground bundles I could find inspected all the wires I could from ignition, clutch, console and really couldn't find anything that looked bad or had been chewed on by mice. Put everything back together and everything worked. I had a neutral light turned the key on and off and the fuse held. So I put everything back together and started her up I was all excited. So I went for a ride. One thing I noticed was the clutch was soft and didn't disengage unless you held it all the way in. I just figured it was out of adjustment. Anyway I got about two miles down the road and stalled the bike taking off from a light. Went to put it in neutral and pop there goes the #1 fuse again and again. Had to now call home for a trailer to pick up me and my bike. Not sure if its connected or not but when I laid my bike on its side stand the clutch was hard real hard and when I stood it upright the clutch was very soft to squeeze. Does any of this make sense to anyone. I'm just so frustrated not sure what to do next. I would appreciate any advice.

There may be an interlock between the clutch and side stand preventing the clutch being used when the bike is on the side stand - mine's got that

When you say you had taken the wires off for the r/h switchblock did you remove the switchblock and clean it? once off the handlebar, by removing the phillips screw beside the r/h turn button, you can just about drown it in wd40 to flush out anything sus in there. As for the gear change indicator, coming up the r/h frame tube behind the alternator, you will find a couple of 4wire connectors often they have alittle of the wiring showing as the sheath has shrunk away from the connector, quiet often these wires can be afixed to the frame tube by a zippy tye and it may be too tight and perhaps the wire causing trouble is touching the tubing there check for worn insulation. hope this helps

K75cster wrote:When you say you had taken the wires off for the r/h switchblock did you remove the switchblock and clean it? once off the handlebar, by removing the phillips screw beside the r/h turn button, you can just about drown it in wd40 to flush out anything sus in there. As for the gear change indicator, coming up the r/h frame tube behind the alternator, you will find a couple of 4wire connectors often they have alittle of the wiring showing as the sheath has shrunk away from the connector, quiet often these wires can be afixed to the frame tube by a zippy tye and it may be too tight and perhaps the wire causing trouble is touching the tubing there check for worn insulation. hope this helps

One more thing. I have a ground wire coming out of the ground cluster under the tank its about 12 inches long coming out of the front from the tank. I put new bars on with a 2.5 inch rise. I'm sure that's when I disconnected it but now can't figure for sure where it goes. Any help

The reason this ground wire is there....if your front brake lamp switch shorts to ground the voltage will follow the ground wire.
Instead of the throttle cable.....which could lock the throttle cable.

Inge K. wrote:The reason this ground wire is there....if your front brake lamp switch shorts to ground the voltage will follow the ground wire.
Instead of the throttle cable.....which could lock the throttle cable.

Ok thanks for that info that's where I had it but wasn't sure.
So the search goes on just checked continuity from ignition switch to its plug and the same from the kill switch to its plug and everything checks out. I did find that there was direct current to the ignition switch on the red wire with key off and #1 fuse removed is that normal.

buisoma wrote:
Ok thanks for that info that's where I had it but wasn't sure.
So the search goes on just checked continuity from ignition switch to its plug and the same from the kill switch to its plug and everything checks out. I did find that there was direct current to the ignition switch on the red wire with key off and #1 fuse removed is that normal.

Yes this is normal.
The battery should permanently feed the starter relay, the load shed relay and the ignition key.

duck wrote:The fuse blowing when shifting is very suspicious.

b) If it only happens when shifting to neutral then the 12V output from the cluster to the right combo switch (start button) is shorting somewhere.

+1 on this line of investigation.  It also points to the wiring within the right hand switch cluster. 

You are stating that you see continuity between associated wires when the various switches are flipped -- kill switch, ignition switch, etc.  But it is not apparent whether you've tested for continuity between unassociated pairs of wires, something which would be unexpected in a functioning wiring harness.  For example, when neutral is selected, is there conductivity to ground from the black/green wires on pin 6 of the RH switch connector block.  You should also look for ground being switched on to pin 2 (green/yellow) of that connector block.  This would indicate a problem with wiring within the kill switch circuit.  It is probably best to separate the connector block when doing this testing to help isolate the problem to either the switch cluster and its wiring or to the harness.

I agree with K75ster's observation that sometimes, cold flow of the insulation on a wire occurs when it contacts a part of the metal frame.  Stress caused by overtight cable ties or wires that are stretched taught can reduce the insulation thickness to a point that a short occurs but the insulation appears intact.

robmack wrote:

duck wrote:The fuse blowing when shifting is very suspicious.

b) If it only happens when shifting to neutral then the 12V output from the cluster to the right combo switch (start button) is shorting somewhere.

+1 on this line of investigation.  It also points to the wiring within the right hand switch cluster. 

You are stating that you see continuity between associated wires when the various switches are flipped -- kill switch, ignition switch, etc.  But it is not apparent whether you've tested for continuity between unassociated pairs of wires, something which would be unexpected in a functioning wiring harness.  For example, when neutral is selected, is there conductivity to ground from the black/green wires on pin 6 of the RH switch connector block.  You should also look for ground being switched on to pin 2 (green/yellow) of that connector block.  This would indicate a problem with wiring within the kill switch circuit.  It is probably best to separate the connector block when doing this testing to help isolate the problem to either the switch cluster and its wiring or to the harness.

I agree with K75ster's observation that sometimes, cold flow of the insulation on a wire occurs when it contacts a part of the metal frame.  Stress caused by overtight cable ties or wires that are stretched taught can reduce the insulation thickness to a point that a short occurs but the insulation appears intact.

RICK G   You win I found the problem following the foot brake circuit when I unplugged the connection everything worked. After taking the foot peg cover off I found the wire was being pinched. I took the cover off three weeks ago to polish it up and wasn't paying enough attention when I put it back on my bad. Thanks a lot you guys I really mean it I couldn't have done it with out your help. There is  so much knowledge in numbers. On the good side I'm getting to know my bike better everyday. Thanks again and come ride the Rockies.

  Now go to Staples and buy yourself an easy button.

  1-0 to Rick, good you did get it sorted   .

Glad you got it sorted and I sure would love to ride the Rockies, unfortunately financial restraints say other wise.