92KK 84WW Olaf
Life time member
Number of posts : 7955
One of the things about the K is that what can appear difficult can be quite easy with a bit of advice from here. This forum is indeed full of what we would call normal people who do actually think and who love these bikes mostly because they are K bikes and not necessarily because of the badge itself. We ride them, fix them, maintain them and always willing to help or offer advice.
My own RT is at the moment having quite a few jobs done, but it came at a price that makes that an attractive choice. They all have a weak spot or two, mine is getting a completely new water/oil pump. When it was opened up on Monday the entire was shot, not a cheap job, but a new one is a permanent fix. The timing chain is also being looked at and I am expecting to be paying for a new chain and tensioner but that will leave the engine 100% sorted.
If you can get your hands on a Clymer manual it will show you everything you need.
Before heading for Slovenia a few things:
Tyres more than 3 years old, would change for new. Lots of different advices on what to get, I expect anything is better than old tyres, they kill the handling completely.
Your fuel lines are high pressure and likely to be perished. A length of the correct line from BMW is small money, also get worm drive clips, make them a bit longer too so you can get at the electrics under the tank by raising it. These pipes can perish and spray fuel...Chances are you will be in and out under that tank at electrics for a while.
Fuel filter etc inside petrol tank should be replaced. If the bike as sitting the ethanol in the petrol may also have affected things inside the petrol tank.
Air filter same, but it actually slides into the air box from the side, but to get at the fuel lines you strictly need to remove the air box and when you are in there, there is a cranckcase vent to the airbox you should do. Seems the fuel line will also work for this.
Coolant change, drain plug is under the water pump and easy to access. The filler is under the petrol tank, longer fuel lines and you can slide tank back without disconnecting them....
For what its worth I would put in a new clutch cable and make sure its a genuine BMW one, they use much thicker cable.
While you are under the petrol tank clean off the earths, where the brown wires are bolted to the frame.
A load of new brake discs and a couple of new clutches does not make sense, curious as to why so many clutches. One possible issue is oil contamination of the clutch from the engine seal, means pulling it apart to get at it. The seal is not expensive, but means removal of clutch and flywheel. There is an option of an oil resistant clutch plate, your receipts might show what type was fitted. I did think the 89Rs was 16 valve, but the LT engine is 8 valve so you might need to pop up the engine number as well.
To change the oil you need a BMW oil filter removal tool, cheap. If you get a genuine BMW filter it comes with an o ring and crush washer that you will need.
There is no reason why the K wont do that trip to Slovenia when you have sorted what you see. They love a long rin and will take that comfortable sitting at 5,000 r
Now if all this goes wrong, the top end of the K can also be recycled to turn the Mini A series engine into a fuel injected 8 or 16 valve twin overhead cam unit....
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1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red 578 bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 689 58,645 now 106,950 miles Deceased.
1983 K100RS 0011157 Fricka 606 Alaska Blue 29,495 miles Damn K Pox Its a Bat outta Hell Now 58,200 miles.
1996 K1100LT 0233004 Lohengrin Mystic Red 38,000 miles currently 51,800 miles.
1983 K100RS 0004449 Odette R100 colours 58,000 miles. Sprint fairing now 63,390 miles
Past:
1968 Yamaha 80 YG1
1971 Yamaha 125 YAS-1
1968 Honda 125 SS
1970 Honda CD 175
1973 Honda CB500-4
Honda CX 500