hi everyone. no spark on my bike for 3 weeks now.  checked and changed everything. 3 hall sensors, 2 ecu and 1 fi unit. get fuel pressure, all lights seem 2 work. fi relay does what its supposed 2, got voltage at coils, fuses are good.  unplug hs unit. on the wires you get live, earth and 5v  to both pick ups. plug it in and you only get 0.7v on the orange pick up wire.  any ideas? thanks

depends on the proximity of metal to the hall effects

I think they work on a window in the metal rotator to change state ...
btw the .7 volts is about right in conduction mode  (most silicon electronics switches with .6 volts across the junction )

have you read the efi trouble shooting guide ...?

the testing procedure is outlined there

good luck

thanks 4 your reply.  done all tests, still no spark.voltages go 2 all the right places so it seems, relays click, fuel flows, but still no spark. previously, changed starter and alternator brushes.  bike cut out 1 day. rev counter dropped, and spluttered 2 a halt. got it home on a truck.  pressed starter, it fired up.  did 100 miles next day, no problem. next day, cut out again. wiggled wires hard, but no fault found but, just tap the 5 pin hs connector with a pencil,stuttered and died.  pressed starter, fired up again.  did test again, died again.  cut wires and made new connectoin.  no spark since. cheers

OK, you have thrown a lot of parts at it and did quite a bit of work but no satisfaction yet.

Possibly teaching you to suck eggs here, but I always have to go back to basics if I'm confronted with something like this, so here it goes  

Your spark plugs spark as a result of the working of the hall sensors and the electronics behind it.

Initial signal is generated when the ignition cup on the end of the crankshaft has its opening cross the field of the sensor, which should open/close the circuit. This then goes to the injection computer underneath the tank where 'pre-ignition' etc gets determined and then the signal goes to the coils to get amplified (increase voltage) so a spark can jump the gap in your spark plugs.

A few things to check in addition to what you have already done:

The cup is properly fastened to the crankshaft? You had the signal, but does it come at the right time...
Are the coils properly connected - signal for 1&4 goes to the coil that is connected to the No 1 & 4 spark plugs? You wouldn't be the first one :-)
I'd be a bit wondering if you have connected the wires of the hall sensors correctly to the connector, as previously you had an intermittend fault there, but now no juice at all it seems.

Good luck and keep us informed?

Clean your ignition switch contacts...  I had the same issue and again years ago..

I highly recommend everyone getting a spare ignition switch (even used) and clean it, and swap it out on a timed interval say 2 to 4 years perhaps, or every time the tank is pulled for piece of mind...

I have 3 of these units changed over the years, and have just started cleaning them now.  This is due to my recent similar issues as pointed out by a guy on the K Yahoo message board concerning intermittent bulb monitoring unit issues...

All of my switches torn down show what the link shows in the way of burnt/oxidized contacts..

Found Here:

<http://www.eilenberger.net/K75S/IgnitionSwitch/>

The only item I would hold on his excellently produced article by Don Eilenberger is the addition of "grease" on the contacts prior to install...  On this site, someone very bright discussed if you want to add a lube to use Krytox only, and discussed the disadvantages of using silicone or petrol based greases on these and the subsequent arcing and breakdown of these greases and effects on the contacts..




Thanks for all the welcomes everyone!!

hi everyone.thanks 4 replys so fay, but bike still dead, no spark.got old fasion origional ig switch, u can see wires, includind soldered joints underneath the rubber console. checked voltage at switch and the 4 pin connector.  12.5v on both sides in and out. i do seem 2b loosing 1v when i check the feed wires at the red wire on the pik ups and live 2 starter relay and also starter switch. only shows 11.3v. injectors only get voltage when u hit starter button,so they seem 2 work.fuel pump works.fi relay clicks. all earths seem 2 b ok. everyone is between  0  and 0.01 or 0.02 ohms.  the only thing that doesnt work correctly is gear indicator. put it into 1st, shows 3rd. 2nd shows 3rd, 3rd shows 4th and 4th goes blank.   also checked air flow meter. its become a war of will,s.  will it spark or wont it. connected wires correctly 2 hs unit,       does anyone know if u should have any voltage apart from the 12.5v live  on the  hs red wire? should there be  5v  on both pick up wires:?:  thanks everyone 4 your help

Have you checked if you really got a signal from both hall sensors at the ignition ecu?
Use a 12V LED as shown in the troubleshooting guide........

If OK, have you checked if both coils receives signal.....you can use the LED here, too.

Gents, topics merged. No need for two separate posts on the exact same subject. Cheers.