I realise that this topic has been covered many times before on this forum and the Downloads section and there are You tube videos, however I have stumbled at the first hurdle.
I rec'd my overhaul kit from Motobins, 1 x seal kit, 1 x impellor, 1 x gear and shaft and believe the parts, in particular the oil seal are correct.

When I dismantled the pump it took a fair bit of force to remove the gear and shaft, consequently the seals were were extensively damaged and was hard to figure out what went where.

 I gather that the cone shape side (also markings on this side) goes toward the front (water side) of pump. I have spent all yesterday afternoon and this morning trying to get the oil seal in using a 18mm socket and a rubber mallet. The walls on the seal i have are quite rigid and I just dont understand how a seal of OD of approx 25mm goes thru/in a flange of 15.5mm diameter.

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New oil seal

When I dismantled the pump it took a fair bit of force to remove the gear and shaft, consequently the seals were were extensively damaged and was hard to figure out what went where.



Is this where seal locates?




What I be better off using a tool, as above, to insert the seal?

I think you will find that there is some of the original seal left behind by the looks of the 2nd picture.
Have you got the old oil seal out yet.

RicK G wrote:I think you will find that there is some of the original seal left behind by the looks of the 2nd picture.
Have you got the old oil seal out yet.

 Do you mean the black ring below the arrow head?

yep thee seal is still in there

I think I remember doing this before

the ridge goes towards the front of the assembly ...yes  

I think I can still remember where my post is ...it might help ...back in a sec

 https://www.k100-forum.com/t1833p250-85-rt-resto-my-attempt-hey-im-not-into-making-a-show-bike#34154

RicK G wrote:I think you will find that there is some of the original seal left behind by the looks of the 2nd picture.
Have you got the old oil seal out yet.

 Yes you are right Rick. There was remnants of the old seal still there, I thought it was black undercutting similar to back side of pump.
Now how do I get the new seal down there?

Use a properly sized pipe key (is that the right term?).
I used a piece of rubber between the tool and the seal, as well as a rubber mallet. Should be no problem getting it in that way.

I usually make sure to clean the seating surface well and put a smear of permatex red RTV and then put the seal on my little finger and put it in the right position and use a socket the right size and a small press I made to put it in.
Make sure the shaft is good at the seal contact point and not rust pitted or grooved as a lot are.

Have cleaned all surfaces and Shaft is new. 
Still not sure how far seal goes in.

did you have a look at my link ?

charlie99 wrote:did you have a look at my link ?

 Yes I did. 
I should have said I can't see how the seal can be driven down to the lowest flange  given that
1. The OD of the seal is 25 mm
2. The seal itself is fairly rigid and would not easily bend.
3. The diameter of the holes thru which he seal has to go is 14 or 15 mm, haven't got the exact measurement now.

25mm for the seal ?  it should only be about 16 or 17mm ... that's  for the oil pump side  dome up

The installer is missing something here.
As stated above, the metal "shell" of the old deteriorated seal is still pressed into his housing ....it looks kind of like sheet metal material.
 He can probably "drive" it out from the back side with a blunt round punch (quite easily?)
CAUTION: be very careful not to scratch the sides of the aluminum housing with any tools.

Once the old seal is completely out and the area gently cleaned with some very fine emery paper, the new seal will press in quite easily with only minimal pressure. As mentioned above a tiny coat of RTV sealant along the outside wall (only) of the seal.......will make it slippery and even easier to press in while adding to the security of the seal itself.
 Personally, I don't use any sealer on these type seals......maybe a light coat of motor oil if you need some lube......they are neoprene on the outside too and will seal against a smooth clean bore.

As stated before, the coned center lip will face the front (away from the oil pump gears).

 Another way to view it is that on any standard "Lip" seal the sealing lip has a small "garter spring" around the
inside diameter of the lip.
 The garter spring always faces the oil (In).

There is also lots to learn about installing the water side seal depending upon which model seal & shaft assy you happen to have.
 Many people have to attempt this at least twice before they learn how to get it correct.

Good luck, Ibj....

ibjman wrote:The installer is missing something here.
As stated above, the metal "shell" of the old deteriorated seal is still pressed into his housing ....it looks kind of like sheet metal material.
 

 Now I get it .
Thanks all for your input.
The metal shell of the old seal was still in the housing. When Rick and Charlie first mentioned I thought they meant some rubber left behind - not the metal shell itself. It was only after reading this post and then comparing Charlies photos with mine that the penny dropped.

I have now removed all the old seal (see pic) and will lightly emery the surfaces and then get on with the job.

Thanks again fellas 

yay !!
well done... your on your way !

I'll give Rick & Charlie credit for the "quoted" post.....LOL.
Hugs, Ibj...

My experience of the same job here mate.

https://www.k100-forum.com/t4749-oil-water-pump-seals-replacement

One or two useful photos and links.

The type of sealant you use on the pump mating faces is important; standard sealants like blue hylomar etc are not suitable.

Cheers
Dave