I just noticed this, my throttle cable seems to be very sticky, when I twist it, it does not return or actual it does but very very slowly. I haven't taken it apart yet but any advise?

Check the bar end weight.
If you push it on too hard and then tighten the allen screw it can put a lot of friction on the end of the grip and stop it returning.

Have a look under the master cylinder for a chrome knurled head about 15 mm dia with a slot it may have one, it is a lock for the grop or your grip may be binding on the body of the switch block because the grip is pushed too far on. 2 very common problems but not all Ks have the throttle stop under the MC.

At every 10K mile service I remove the cover over the throttle gear, take the throttle sleeve off the handlebar, clean inside the throttle sleeve, clean the end of the handle bar and put some light oil on it. Then I clean the gear teeth and put fresh grease on them. That keeps the throttle operating smoothly. Also, spray a little light oil on the end of the throttle cable where it attaches to the throttle bodies. Not a lot, just a dribble to lubricate the very end so nothing is sticking down there.

Ok done. Took it apart and cleaned up all the gummed up grease washed
it out with Lanox and then re greased everything and it doesn't stick
anymore.

I set the cable in the catch, then laid out the chain till there was no
slack, turned the throttle till the start of the gears in the bevel were
just past center, so it doesn't run out of clogs on rotation and put it all back together with a touch of grease.

Question though, full throttle rotation is only about a 1/3 - 1/4 of a turn? Can anyone please confirm this? Cheers!

Oh and mine does not have the throttle stop screw.

If it opens the throttle all the way then its OK Its very necessary to have a throttle open all the way not that I use it at all.

There is a scribe mark adjacent to one of the gear teeth where the twist hand tube gear meshes with the chain gear. You have to have the timing marks on both gears aligned in order to have proper travel through the full range on the gear as shown here

Rick G wrote:If it opens the throttle all the way then its OK Its very necessary to have a throttle open all the way not that I use it at all.

yeah right ..!!! giggle

ibjman wrote:There is a scribe mark adjacent to one of the gear teeth where the twist hand tube gear meshes with the chain gear. You have to have the timing marks on both gears aligned in order to have proper travel through the full range on the gear as shown here

Thank you! Off with the lot to check now.

Ok checked the alignment and it was off by two cogs, all good now!

First run this year and problems with throttle too. I think that mine is caused by previous owner. Bike had these very wide dragbars when I bought it so I think that the route of the throttle wire is not correct now with new clip-on style bars. Idle is too high and when I turn bars all the way left revs pick up. All the way right and idle is more like it should be.

Which end of wire is easier to get loose? Near the injection system or at handlebars?

There is no adjuster in the hand throttle, all adjustments have to be done at the other end.

I ment that which is easier to take apart? I have to reroute the whole wire - it goes on wrong side of the steering column (if that is the term). I don't have to adjust anything I believe.

Ah, if you are going to reroute the cable then dismental from the handle bar side, its pretty easy to do and you can clean up and re grease everything.

I just did that when I changed the handlebars, but if it is easier than the other end I just have to do it again. Thanks.

Doing it from the other end means you have to get it between the airboxes and it very tight in there.

I had a similar problem. I ended up having to remove the airbox and remove the entire cable & jacket to figure out some way to either lengthen the cable or conversely shorten the cable jacket in order to get some extra free play in the cable pull. My 85 did not appear to have any adjustability anywhere.
Although it may not be recommended, I ended up filing a small amount off the top edge of the lower throttle cable bracket... that is screw-mounted to the inside edge of the throttle bodies assembly.
This approach had the end result of moving the throttle cable jacket closer to the throttle lever creating enough slack in the cable to allow the throttle plates to close all the way to the stop screw seat.
JEEEZE that sounds confusing! I'm not often good putting my thoughts into words.
Also, originally, I had to replace the handle tube & gear set with a superseded (Lid) part because my gears had a big worn spot in the gears. (Tight spot when turning).....couldn't fix it with grease

Ok, thanks again. I will rip the handle apart once more.

My repair was needed on the engine end.......not sure about yours

Routed the wire so that it comes out other (left) side of the "steering head" and it seems that it was all it needed. At least when testing in garage now turning the handlebars from side to side fully did not impact on revs at all. While at it I also did some rewiring on rightside blinker. It should be ready for the summer now!

Edit: 50km testride and throttle is fine now!

I think my K100 is planning to kill me. It has been working really nice now for a while. Had some problems with the throttle previously, but that sorted out by rerouting the wire. Now, suddenly after about 125km of troublefree driving something happened to the throttle. Bar went numb and hard to turn and the throttle did not return normally. Really scared me. Had to stop (with kill switch helping) and see what is wrong since it did not cure itself on ride. Field stripped (thanks Leatherman) the bar end of throttle but it seemed to be fine. No effect on problem with tampering the wire either.

Throttle started to work OK again after I pulled the actual system that opens the throats few times back and forth. It then returned nicely and I put the bastard back together. While driving normally and gently it worked well, but when I tried to give it some more action it stucked again. And again was cured (after another kill switch episode) same way as first time. I just have to find the reason for this or I cant drive with this bike anymore. What is stucking the system?

Is it sticking down at the linkages?

this needs some careful evaluation. #1
I would install a new throttle cable regardless.
I am guessing that you have a screw head the sticking out around from something around the back side of the levers on each individual throttle body where they assembled at the linkage.
maybe a mis positioned clamp screw from the rubber intake tubes or a clamp from the crankcase breather hose.
A lesser possibility is something internally adrift in the throttle position switch on the end of #4 throttle body.
probably #4 around by the choke light switch or maybe #3. These can be very hard to see way back in there & under the bottom of the linkage the way they are. Need to get your nose right up in there with a big light and really inspect everything that rotates as the throttles turn.
As you are checking/ testing, be slow and methodical with a gentle touch. be precise and careful, you will find it.
Let me know what you come up with.





th

Thanks ibjman. I think you were right although I managed to find out the problem myself. It really was one of the clamp screws on rubber tube. The one closest to the thing where the throttle wire connects to. It actually jammed the system - lucky me it somehow did not leave it full throttle.

I opened the clamp and turned it so that the screw is now far away from throttle systems then tightened it back and everything seems to work now. I'm not still quite sure that this was the cause since I think it would have jammed it even worse than it did. Must recheck all other possibilities you mentioned.

Throttle had this odd sticky point at the end before, now it is gone. I think that it was always connecting with clamp srew, but did not jam it before today. I just could not find the reason before.

On the bright side - If it was this, it was an easy fix. And I am alive still...

Edit: Oh and the cable looks new. I think po has renewed it at 2009 (less than 8000km driven since).

Glad it worked out for you. It's a funny kind of obstruction. The rear edge of the throttle arm can be JUST grazing accross the end of one of those screws and 90% of the time it'll just slide right on across it and not catch. Especially when opening the throttle. Somehow, because of the angles involved it may or may not just "catch" on the way back. Most of the time it'll slide over but occassionaly if it catches than it'll jamb tight.

My K1100LT had a slow to return after having all the bits off a few times and it was one of the rubber bits for keeping the heat away from the legs was touching the cable drum so now it is wired in place

Hmmmm......... Need to take a closer look at mine when I get back.

Ooops it did it again. I think this has to be problem with the cable itself. Because it makes the throttle very sticky and numb and problem is solved with sharp snapping of the place where the cable attaches to the thing that opens the throats. Full throttle with finger and snap back = problem solved. Occured only once during last say 600km driving. Left throttle now little less open - just a bit. I will recheck everything visible down there, but I can't check the cable itself at this time.

One thing worth checking, it happened to me and took a while to sort because of the fairing, is that the inner liner came lose and was moving with the cable and would go so far down the cable that it made the cable ride up the barrel and out of the groove which held the throttle open a bit or a lot depending where it was on the cable. Opening the throttle quickly and letting it snap back would often resolve the problem for a while.

You need to replace this throttle cable now, regardless of what you find. You simply can not afford to screw around with this the most important single part on the vehicle, safety wise. At least perhaps more important than brakes!
Stop fooling with this before you have an irreversible tradgedy

RicK G wrote:One thing worth checking, it happened to me and took a while to sort because of the fairing, is that the inner liner came lose and was moving with the cable and would go so far down the cable that it made the cable ride up the barrel and out of the groove which held the throttle open a bit or a lot depending where it was on the cable. Opening the throttle quickly and letting it snap back would often resolve the problem for a while.

This sounds like the thing I'm experiencing. Sorry to say I don't quite follow what you mean or where excactly should I look for on the cable and what to do with it.

ibjman - I know I should...

A throttle cable has 4 main components 1 a strong inner steel cable that actually does the pulling. 2. a teflon liner so the steel inner slides easily. 3. A spiral steel outer to make it possible and 4 a plastic sheath to make it look pretty.
With mine the teflon liner was moving with the steel inner and as a result the steel inner would not seat in the groove that is on the throttle bodies and stopped the throttle returning to the stop. depending how far the liner had moved on the inner steel the throttle stayed open more or less.
Regardless what is wrong with the cable you need to replace it or your wife will refuse to keep washing your underware.

Thanks for this, mines a bit sticky but its a cheap cruise control, not that you really need it over here. One think about the RT servicing down below in the engine room means removing all the fairing guff, well some any way, suppose I'll get use to it, love it in the winter. to lube the throttle cable down below can you get over to the back of em easy to access the cable, mine has a bit of backlash and no adjustable sleeve on the outer near the twist grip. I had a peer down there with the tank off and it all looked hidden behind the injectors and rail, wires etc. i'll get there next time, may need a mirror??.
Rick

Where the cable goes into the throttle housing on the right handlebar there is a conical rubber boot pull that boot back and have a look.
You should not lube the OEM cables as they have a teflon liner and the lube attracts dirt and that wears the cable.. Make sure there is space between the handgrip and the throttle housing as the rubber grips the housing and makes for a stiff throttle also regrease the throttle tube and gears in the housing it works wonders.

I will change the cable. Someday in near future. This year anyway. Fuel tank must be taken off - am I right? If I disconnect the two fuel lines from tank will there be gasoline coming out of the tank?

Wonder if I can get a life insurance policy on this guy?.....lol

This problem gives clear signals when it comes on. Throttle becomes very numb etc. I think I can handle it now that I know what is going on. (Yes I know.. Famous last words.)

Tenox wrote:I will change the cable. Someday in near future. This year anyway. Fuel tank must be taken off - am I right? If I disconnect the two fuel lines from tank will there be gasoline coming out of the tank?

You can move the tank back then up enough to get the cable through. Tightly tape the new cable to the old one then lift the tank up on the right side and you will get it through fairly easily.
You will need to get the air filter box out.

Thanks. Still would like to know about those fuel lines. Are they designed so that gasoline won't come pouring out? I am planning to redo some electrics etc. so I will remove the tank next winter anyway.

Tenox wrote:Still would like to know about those fuel lines. Are they designed so that gasoline won't come pouring out?

Yes.

However, there will be some that escapes as you remove the fuel hoses, having an old rag or something handy is a good idea.

When you store the tank put another rag under the two outlets as they sometimes weep a little.

I put a rubber vacuum cap on each fuel tank pipe as soon as I pull the hose off.

you could get about a foot of fuel hose and join them both up ...no leaks except for the immediate drips

but extend you hoses slightly which allows the tank to be mooved without undoing at all ....well just enough to get to the radiator refill , electric box etc

charlie99 wrote:you could get about a foot of fuel hose and join them both up ...no leaks except for the immediate drips

but extend you hoses slightly which allows the tank to be mooved without undoing at all ....well just enough to get to the radiator refill , electric box etc

Those fuel lines perish and should be replaced after 10 years. If you do let them get perished the fuel is under pressure spraying out over a hot engine and exhaust. Not funny.

BMW here supply a 1m length quite reasonably so you know its the right one. As Charlie99 says make them longer enough to move the tank without undoing them. You will really appreciate the hassle it saves....like not needing to dismantle half the fairing every time you need to move it.

I have no fairings and fuel lines are renewed at 2009 by po - too bad he did not make them longer. Well they are long enough so that the tank can be moved a bit. Finish is nice though. http://kotisivu.dnainternet.net/ajk73/LsE.jpg

Then again in my case I have to take the front turnsignal lights off too.

Those fuel lines are a lot longer than mine... It looks like you would be able to rotate the tank a whole 90 degrees, I have to lower the back of my tank onto the top of a 25ltr container and have the top resting on the bike..... I should have made my hose's longer when I replaced them!

Planned to buy new throttle cable for winter but the dealer asked if I need a "sovitelevy" too. I think that translates something like a "adjustment plate" or "fixing plate" - cable costs 32 euros but the plate would be additional 35 euros. Problem is that I have no clue do I need that plate or not. Any ideas how to check that without removing tank or airbox? If not I will order that cable when I get the old one out.

Have a look at this, could be that it gives you some ideas about the "fixing plate".

Can we find that pdf bulliten in English, Inge?

Thanks Inge, I think that will help when I try to solve this mystery. From the look of it atleast the upper end of my cable looks like the new one.

Same problem on my cafe projet, turns out it was the inner teflon liner poking out the bottom of the cable and jamming in the throttle body half moon lever. Thanks Rick G.

Regards Bushy