Hi ,can any of the members tell me how difficult it is to change the rubber sleeves between the air box and the throttle bodies. The reason I ask is they are not secured with normal jubilee clips, they appear to be connected with a kind of factory fitted clip . Do the same type of clips need to be replaced?
Thanks for any help.

I replaced mine with standard large jubilee clips and haven't had any issues - I believe the correct one-time use clips are available if you want to use them. Someone will be along shortly to let you know where to source them. I would suggest Motobins, Motorworks or James Sherlock in Devon

Oetiker clips they are.
They are fixed using just a pair of pincers, but are considered to be single use. I have re-used the little ones on the radiator overflow bottle, but not advised for the TBs.

Suzuki make a screw type band that fits (2 different sizes), but cost me $8 each so expensive and difficult to fit as the screws get in the way of the moving parts of the TBs, but if like me you have to fix something twice they are re-useable.

Normal clips will not fit as the formed rubber where the clips sit is narrower than anything the hardware may sell.

rossco

Hi there, You´ll need to take out the airbox and maybe the TB group, there is not much room there.
I replaced the upper ones with sleeves made out of radiator hoses, and all the clamps with the screw type ones.
Best regards
JAP

R series clips as used around the carbys and fork gaitors may do the trick.

K-D tools and several other mfgs. make the correct plier to set these clamps the right way.
The correct pliers not only have wedge shaped jaws that squeeze the bow tie area close together, but also have a cam action type flat push bar in between those jaws to keep the clamp from "folding out" of shape during the closing side force of the jaws. Not really expensive either especially considering the fine end result.
KD-3955.....about $40

Thanks for the advice fellas

The Oeitiker clamps are good clamps but the reservations I have with them is that if I need to take it apart when I cant get replacements then I can be stuck for a few days getting replacements so I tend to go with screw clamps but as said they are hard to get. Cable ties can be used but still need to be replaced in the near future. With a new bike the problem would be unlikely to surface but these ol girls are getting on a bit now and need constant attention.

Just been on the motorworks site and found a 46mm jubilee clip. Is this the one to fit on both ends of the airbox to manifold rubber bushings ,cos it looks like the bushing fits over two different size ends.
Thanks a lot

There are indeed 2 different size clamps for those rubbers

ibjman wrote:There are indeed 2 different size clamps for those rubbers

Thanks ibjman , I was looking on the british motorworks site and there is only one size jubilee clip paired up with the rubber sleeve and I was hoping it had enough flexability to fit both ends. I,m guessing other members that haved used motorworks for this task will know the answer pleeeeeese!

Come on lads (or lasses) , is the question too easy or am I missing something

I am going to be doing some work on my bike tomorrow morning which will have the airbox out so if you haven't been given a definitive answer by the time I have all stripped back I will be able to tell you the size I have got fitted to mine.

Good man!

I think so.... am going to be draining the coolant and cleaning up the temp sensors.... I think I am nuts even thinking about doing it with the temp set to be around 1 or 2 Degrees C!

But if it means I can also give you the measurements then I am sure it will be worth it!!!!

Cheers, but I now know the sizes by looking on the forum , I was trying to find jubilee clips the right size so I didnt have to mess about with the other type of clip.

I am probably going over old material here and not giving you the answer you want, but here is the realoem pic of the set-up



03 Clamp D=48,5 4 11611460900 $3.18
05 Clamp D=50 4 11611460901 $3.48

In between parts one and four (part 4 is the rubber connector thingy) go the throttle bodies. Bit deceptive the way they have shown it here.

The problem with most jubilee clamps are they are too wide to fit the pre-formed rubbers.
The 46mm clamp shown below as part #15 will not fit the diameter of the clamps #3 and #5 shown above.

Confused? me too.

The 46mm jubilee clamp you are looking at I believe goes below the throttle bodies and clamps the above part number one to the underside of the TBs.


15 Hose clamp D=46 4 11611460940 $3.48

Hi Joinyman,

Just give Motorworks a call, I'm sure they will be able to advise accordingly.

Mike

mike d wrote:Hi Joinyman,

Just give Motorworks a call, I'm sure they will be able to advise accordingly.

Mike

Or you could do that

Ask for Tez.

I have all the FI gear off my K1100 at the moment and have reassembled it using the reuseable OEM clamps that are on the rubber below the TBs on all the places where the oeitiker clamps were. I had some spares from various FI units I have laying around and I realize that you may not have that supply but they will do the job despite appearing to be about 1mm too wide at first look.

Thanks all you members for the info , motorworks are sending new rubbers ,with jubilee clips from a different bike. They were very helpful.
,

Worth knowing it is possible (or at least it was for me ) for the TB rubbers jubillee-type clips to foul the throttle butterflies. If this happens the twist grip will not rotate freely all the way round. Best to do one at a time and then twist the throtttle to make sure it's clear. If any do snag just free the offending clip off and rotate until the butterfly doesn't snag and then retighten.

Cheers
Dave

Thanks Dave, I,ll keep an eye on that potential problem. When I bought the bike it looked to me in good nick, now I,ve found this forum I can see dozens of issues with the bike not least are all the rubber parts slowly disintagrating .Am I right in thinking that if the rubber sleeves are leaking they can cause extra vibration cos it,s possible my bike might suffer from this ,but I cant tell cos I ve never ridden another K100.

Hi Mate,

First off there are many more knowledgeable than me - I have only had my 'K' for a year but this is the approach I have taken.

If your bike is running and working fine then it is fine . That said I would think unless the previous owners have been meticulous there will be a certain amount of servicing and recommissioning that will make the bike as good as it can be. However, unless there are really bad symptoms that concern you, I would be riding in the meantime and doing the work gradually as time and money allow. After all inactivity is not good for a bike.

Servicing

The starting place for this is the BMW maintenance schedule; replace brake fluid, check pad depth and caliper action; relube clutch cable, replace oils (engine. final drive, etc); lubricate the splines (if you have no fairly recent record of it being done), replace fuel filter, check headstock bearings and so on (there is more ). This is all written in the manuals and can be downloaded from the site once you have access - ask Bert (Crazy Frog) in a PM for access to the Downloads section.

Recomissioning

Any K is over 20 years old so again unless meticulously maintained some things will not be as good as new. First to go are the rubber parts. I replaced all of mine but you could inspect and replace only those with perishing pr that are split. I'd start with fuel lines, first those outside the tank and the crankcase breather hose (it often goes) and then the TB rubbers, and fuel lines inside the tank.

These bikes DO vibrate to varying degress and are well known for it. I spent ages optimising mine and it still vibrates. By that I mean there are tingly vibes through footpegs and bars at certain revs - nothing more and the thing certainly should not be shaking violently! It is up to you how much you try and remove the vibes. I would just do the maintenence as per schedule and the recommissioning and you might find the vibes subside a little. I think if you make sure the rubber parts of the induction system are in good shape (TB rubbers/crankcase breather hose) then the priority is valve clearance checks first (engine cover off job) and then engine timing (I borrowed the BMW tool there are thrads in the 'How to' section).

In 12 months I have done about 90% of the above so just enjoy the bike and chip away at it!

Hope this helps
Cheers
Dave

Just when you think no one cares the site comes up trumps . Before I found the forum I went to Halfords bought some fuel lines (fuel injection type) for not much money, result I thought , I also did other "upgrades" , now everything I did I,m checking it has the forums approval.
I like you have now changed all the fluids and am gradually in the process of changing the rest of the rubbery bits. Since I ,ve read your post , I ,ve seen another obvious maintainance task, oil the clutch cable , I already looked at that and thought- looks pretty tricky to me , I.ll do it another time , so yet another question how is it done?
I must appologise for all the crappy questions.
Thanks Dave for the help.

If you have an OEM clutch cable you should not oil it as they have a teflon liner and the oil picks up abrasive grit etc. and wears the liner out much faster than it would have had it been left dry.
Of course if you have an after market cable your guess is as good as mine.

Yeah reading back what I meant was grease the clutch nipple located ahead of the rear wheel low down. It gets a hammering from dirt and water so a dab of grease should help prolong its life. I think you should also grease the nipple at the clutch lever end but admit it's on my 10% of jobs I haven't done yet . If I'm spouting crap I'm sure Rick will correct me
Cheers
Dave

I promise I wont mention this again but motorworks sent me the rubber bushes and jubilee clips (meant for fork gaiters, which other members have already have stated could work) . They are about 1mm too wide . Should I use them or should I buy the proper f*****g clips !

Sorry, I don't know. Are they too wide to fit in the depressions in the TB rubbers? If they don't pop in there when you start to tighten them I would not use them because you won't get the pressure where you want it?

If it helps (might not) Motorworks sold me these that I used throughout. My bike is a 16 valve so a little different to yours in configuration but same principle. I could not get the rubbers over the metalwork with the clips on - they were too tight. Only option was to put clips on afterwards which was a sod as they were only just long enough to get bite on the thread.

The job is a fiddle - and I for one didn't enjoy it buut you'll get there eventually!

Cheers
Dave

I think I,ll go for it , I cant be the first to have used these clips or they would nt have sold em to me. Cheers Dave.

Hi Joinyman,
Johnsons Cables told me that the only 'oil' to use on teflon lined cables is Duck Oil..........but only once you've acertained that the levers and pivots at both ends are free and not causing any binding.



Paul.

Thanks Paul.

JOINYMAN wrote:Just when you think no one cares the site comes up trumps . Before I found the forum I went to Halfords bought some fuel lines (fuel injection type) for not much money, result I thought , I also did other "upgrades" , now everything I did I,m checking it has the forums approval.
I like you have now changed all the fluids and am gradually in the process of changing the rest of the rubbery bits. Since I ,ve read your post , I ,ve seen another obvious maintainance task, oil the clutch cable , I already looked at that and thought- looks pretty tricky to me , I.ll do it another time , so yet another question how is it done?
I must appologise for all the crappy questions.
Thanks Dave for the help.

Buy a good aerosol cable lubricant. Disconnect the cable at both ends and spray the lubricant into the cable at the handlebar. Work the inner cable by hand until you see lubricant at the bottom. You'll feel a noticable increase in how smooth the inner cable slides as you work it. This is an exapmle of the lubricant:
http://www.henkelna.com/adhesives/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797899587585

Thankyou mr Manley.

dmanley wrote:
Disconnect the cable at both ends

Be aware that you need to support the clutch control arm at the bottom end or the rubber boot #6 over the push rod and spring will tear and need to be replaced.
Alternately remove the clamp #5

dmanley wrote:Buy a good aerosol cable lubricant. ...

BMW cables are not meant to be lubricated. Doing so will cause the inner teflon liner to swell and the cable will bind, rendering it useless. If you are experiencing stiffness in the controls, examine how the associated cable is routed through the bike and correct any routing problems.

Thanks Robmack , its working ok so I,ll leave it alone.

Just had a poke about around the TBS and it looks like changing the bushings aint as easy as I thought. I,m not a mechanic , but I,m learning quick. I want to ride this bike now and through the summer I recon if I take this job on it wont be fixed until next christmas. Apart from the obvious dimantling I think there,s a good chance replacing the bushings disturbs everything around the TBS , particularly the injectors and the sleeves under the TBS . So a job that I thought I could do in a day or less , for £30, could take a lot longer and cost a lot more.
If you were in my shoes what would you lot do?

Hi Joinyman,
Are you planning on changing the rubbers because someone said 'it would be a good idea', or is there a specific problem?

If the engine is running OK then I would leave well alone and ride it.

Paul.

I,ve read this forum quite a lot now and I,ve got information overload .

sidecar paul wrote:Hi Joinyman,
Are you planning on changing the rubbers because someone said 'it would be a good idea', or is there a specific problem?

If the engine is running OK then I would leave well alone and ride it.

Paul.

+1

If you are suffering from information overlaod (and I have had the same ) prioritise the things that are safety critical and do those first. So fuel lines outside the tank an obvious one, braking system another.

Cheers
Dave

i agree dave ....best get on the old girl joiney ...after you have confirmed all the safety things ....

that way you will get a feel for what the lady of the garage needs ...

then you can talk to friends and find out the recommendations for what you are experiencing and ways to fix it if needed

[quote="charlie99"]i agree dave ....best get on the old girl joiney ...after you have confirmed all the safety things ....

that way you will get a feel for what the lady of the garage needs ...

then you can talk to friends and find out the recommendations for what you are experiencing and ways to fix it if needed[/quote
Cheers Dave and Charlie . I think its a bit of both , if you buy an old bike in the early days armed with no knowledge and you break down, its a pain in the arse . But now by pestering you lot, already I have quite a lot of info The bike now runs really well and goes like a train , and so far has,nt let me down , which leads me to the next question- I took it out for a two hour run this morning and I,ve just noticed a few spots of oil coming through the clutch weep hole . The clutch works perfectly at the moment ,is this the begining of the end or is this standard . The bike has done 50,000 miles.

JOINYMAN wrote: ....I,ve just noticed a few spots of oil coming through the clutch weep hole . The clutch works perfectly at the moment ,is this the begining of the end or is this standard . The bike has done 50,000 miles.

Hi there at this age its standard, might be the engine´s main seal or the gearbox´s input seal. Usually can tell by the smell. Engine´s seal is the more pressing, due to clutch´s contamination.
Plenty of experience here regarding both.
I would change them both and the gearbox output one too.
Best regards
JAP