SniperX wrote:So can I get the instrument cluster out without removing the fairing top? Looks like I remove the top pad on the bars and may be able.to vet the instruments out.
Apologies - I though you were talking about the
fuel and temp gauges (are these even fitted to an RT?). I have had to do "maintenance" on both mine due to age related wire breaks which stopped the gauges reading (at different times of course) - easy to fix though.
If you are looking to remove the
instrument cluster (speedo, rev counter etc.) - then it is easier if you remove the windscreen, the plastic trim panel and both glove boxes - this gives better access to the bolts securing the instrument cluster mount. (Edited after a quick trip to my garage to check - access is too tight if you don't remove these bits)
Remove the 2x allen bolts from the under the crash pad (the rubbery bit with the ignition switch in it). You don't need to disconnect any wiring as the crash pad will now move enough to be able to continue with the removal of the instrument cluster.
Remove the 2x allen bolts securing the instrument panel mounting (need to turn handlebars fully each way to be able to get access to them). Depending on how your wires are routed (I have additional wires that managed to get routed through the hole in the mounting bracket), you may now need to remove the 4x allen bolts that secure the instrument cluster in the mounting. Finally, remove the small allen bolt in the centre of the instrument connector plug and carefully disconnect the plug from the cluster. The cluster should now lift out of the mounting. All this can be done with the fairing in place - obviously, access to the bolts is much easier with the top fairing off, but removing that section of fairing is a
lot more work and not necessary! I did some open-cluster surgery on Gretel's instrument cluster a couple of weeks back in order to replace the cracked glass and replace a couple of bulbs (replaced it with my spare/donor bike cluster after changing over the odo/speedo section so that the odometer was correct for her miles).
Getting inside the instrument cluster is then a matter of moving the numerous cross head screws at the back. I don't know what maintenance you are planning inside there (only occasional task is to replace the various bulbs), but treat it with respect! If you are doing anything more exciting - there are several posts on fixing odometer gears, fitting anti-condensation fans etc. - use the search facility on the portal page.
Reassembly is pretty much the reverse process - but in the time honoured tradition of K's...treat the connector plug and socket connections to a good dose of deoxit before you reconnect them.