A couple weeks ago, I had what felt like an intermittent slipping in the clutch on the freeway. I readjusted the clutch according to the manual, and interestingly ended up with the lever adjustment screw pretty much all the way in, and the clutch screw at the transmission with plenty of thread left--as if the clutch had hardly worn at all (I think). Lever feel seemed as it should be, and the problem seemed to disappear.

It was fine for a few weeks, and it happened again last night. Seems to appear around 65-70 mph in forth gear. Just a sudden stuttering, then it disappears. The vexing thing is I can't seem to duplicate it rolling on the throttle hard.

So...could it still be the clutch? Electrical? Bad gas, maybe?

Here's a couple pics I snapped of the adjustments on either end:

whats the back lash like on the rear wheel? check with bike on main stand from memory 60-80 mm is usual
whens the last time the splines were greased or the uni-joint
is the chattering whilst the bike is rolling or when clutch engaged ?

Backlash is certainly not more than 80mm. I'll be checking the splines over winter break (just got the bike two months ago).

I did have it chatter again today--this time rolling on about 4,500 rpm in 3rd. Just accelerating around town! Happens when the clutch is engaged and when I'm on the throttle.

+1 for universal joints need grease.

Had this on a car

Agreed sounds like a dry Universal Joint so will get worse if there is no grease in it

Toto_jp wrote:Agreed sounds like a dry Universal Joint so will get worse if there is no grease in it

OOf! Doesn't sound like something I should wait for....So I guess I might as well go in and do the spline lube a little earlier than December. Can I use the same Honda/Wurth mix or Guard Dog Moly on the U-Joint, as well?

You can't grease the U joint they are sealed but they can be replaced. where you are you would probably be best to get Bruno in Canada to do it.
http://www.brunos.us/ds_1986on_k75_k100.html

Rick G wrote:You can't grease the U joint they are sealed but they can be replaced. where you are you would probably be best to get Bruno in Canada to do it.
http://www.brunos.us/ds_1986on_k75_k100.html

Thanks for the tip! Looks like he does good work FWIR here and around the net.

Assuming it is the U-joint, with shipping it looks like this is going to take the bike offline for 3-4 weeks. So far the problem is still intermittent (like, maybe once every 7-10 days)--do you think I can risk holding off 'til December?

Problem is the bike is really our "second car"--my primary transportation, so it's tough doing major work during the busiest parts of my work year.

I guess the problem is that each time it judders you risk damaging something else (like the spline).

I think if it were mine I would treat it as gently as I could and get done what I needed to. I've got away with that any number of times :pirat:

I'd pull the shaft just to look first before committing If the uni is suspect order a new one any reputable mechanic can fit it for you save a few dollars . You can keep riding but be mindful if the joint does fail you'll be up for a new shaft as they usually destroy the yolks. HARDIE SPICER here in Oz rebuild and balance drive shafts using non standard parts quoted me cheaper than a rebuilt exchange unit
keep us posted cheers Tony

Toto_jp wrote:I'd pull the shaft just to look first before committing If the uni is suspect order a new one any reputable mechanic can fit it for you save a few dollars . You can keep riding but be mindful if the joint does fail you'll be up for a new shaft as they usually destroy the yolks. HARDIE SPICER here in Oz rebuild and balance drive shafts using non standard parts quoted me cheaper than a rebuilt exchange unit
keep us posted cheers Tony

Wrong you need special jigs to position the uni in centre before crimping the yokes to hold it. There are no circlips like many uni joints have.
I have over the years done quite a bit of work with shafts and uni joints and I would not even entertain the thought of doing it without the correct jig.

Thanks Rick just looked and yes some are staked and newer ones use snap rings just never looked that deep into it

Are you sure the clutch is not oil soaked from a leaky rear main seal? That was my first thought. These U-joints generally outlast the pinion splines which makes me wonder if the pinion splines inside the rear of the drive shaft are the culprit.

Themason wrote:Are you sure the clutch is not oil soaked from a leaky rear main seal? That was my first thought. These U-joints generally outlast the pinion splines which makes me wonder if the pinion splines inside the rear of the drive shaft are the culprit.

The rubber boot on the clutch adjustment *was* a little greasy when I adjusted it. There hasn't been any dripping since I cleaned it--though I suppose I better check the boot again.

Looks like I'm going to have to do some tranny/driveline work anyway. I've got the "floppy-gearshift-lever-grub-screw" thing going on, too.

Looks like you have a bit of work coming, there just isn't anything worse than a floppy grub screw.

[quote="zaubertuba"][quote="Themason"]Are you sure the clutch is not oil soaked from a leaky rear main seal? That was my first thought. These U-joints generally outlast the pinion splines which makes me wonder if the pinion splines inside the rear of the drive shaft are the culprit.[/quote]

The rubber boot on the clutch adjustment *was* a little greasy when I adjusted it. There hasn't been any dripping since I cleaned it--though I suppose I better check the boot again.

Looks like I'm going to have to do some tranny/driveline work anyway. I've got the "floppy-gearshift-lever-grub-screw" thing going on, too. [/quote]

If the rear main seal is leaking there will be oil dripping from the weep hole in the very bottom of the intermediate housing, just in front of the center stand carrier bracket.

[quote="Rick G"]Looks like you have a bit of work coming, there just isn't anything worse than a floppy grub screw. [/quote]



"Grub screw"??? WTH? This was from a Yank and I don't understand him any better than I understand you Aussies sometimes

Thats OK we are very understanding people, we like our grub

Mine seems to have the occasional chatter at low speed going round a sharp corner
Would this be a spline issue?

I removed the gear box on the k100 because of the output shaft seal leaking.
Over the last 800Km, I experienced this chattering twice.
The clutch plate is soiled with oil and has to be replaced.

CF

[quote="K75cster"]Thats OK we are very understanding people, we like our grub[/quote]

Grub? I thought Aussies called it "tucker".

Themason wrote:

K75cster wrote:Thats OK we are very understanding people, we like our grub

Grub? I thought Aussies called it "tucker".

I don't care what they call it just so long I can eat it and it tastes OK
The grub screw we refer to is a small taper seat screw thay positions the internal lever to the gear lever shaft inside the gearbox.

Rick G wrote:

Themason wrote:

K75cster wrote:Thats OK we are very understanding people, we like our grub

Grub? I thought Aussies called it "tucker".

I don't care what they call it just so long I can eat it and it tastes OK
The grub screw we refer to is a small taper seat screw thay positions the internal lever to the gear lever shaft inside the gearbox.

Pfff... for one minute I thought that you were talking about grubs on a worm gear.

Are we talking about a set screw in North American language?

Let's switch back to vegemite subject (That's was years ago when we started to go off topic)

Crazy Frog wrote:

Rick G wrote:

Themason wrote:

Grub? I thought Aussies called it "tucker".

I don't care what they call it just so long I can eat it and it tastes OK
The grub screw we refer to is a small taper seat screw thay positions the internal lever to the gear lever shaft inside the gearbox.

Pfff... for one minute I thought that you were talking about grubs on a worm gear.

Are we talking about a set screw in North American language?



Let's switch back to vegemite subject (That's was years ago when we started to go off topic)

Ah yes the "American Language" just think if it wasn't for the American revolution they would all be talking English.

Crazy Frog wrote:I removed the gear box on the k100 because of the output shaft seal leaking.
Over the last 800Km, I experienced this chattering twice.
The clutch plate is soiled with oil and has to be replaced.

CF

I'm not sure what would be better...repairing a driveshaft or replacing a clutch plate (the darned things are so pricey). Looks like no matter how you slice it, I'm looking at a Christmas Break "driveline-health-assessment-teardown." :pale:

zaubertuba wrote:

Crazy Frog wrote:I removed the gear box on the k100 because of the output shaft seal leaking.
Over the last 800Km, I experienced this chattering twice.
The clutch plate is soiled with oil and has to be replaced.

CF

I'm not sure what would be better...repairing a driveshaft or replacing a clutch plate (the darned things are so pricey). Looks like no matter how you slice it, I'm looking at a Christmas Break "driveline-health-assessment-teardown." :pale:

The clutch plates is 'only' $160. Drive shaft are way more expensive.

CF