after reading the posts on the high / low beam switch, I experienced some problems and open mine.
This was very easy and I found that the contacts were corroded.
I took some pictures of the dismantling procedure and you can see them at: Procedure to open the left side handlebar switch

Bert

Hi Bert,
Thank you so much a fantastic job of documenting the disassembly of the switch, with really helpful warnings about the bits which are prone to leaping out and escaping.

I know of several people who have reported grovelling on the driveway and garage floor looking for bits which have pinged off into the distance after not being careful.

Once the job is done a good treatment with Deoxit and a careful reassembly with a relay kit fitted will result in no more problems for the foreseeable future from that switch at least.

Regards,
K-BIKE

Good job there Bert
My high beam switch was bit a sticky and I squirted some Electrolube in and its OK now
but your pictorial essay on dismantling is a very useful resource.

Bert
excellent step by step guide, even I managed to get everything apart. L/H indicator wouldn't work but lit up when flashers on, so cleaned everything as I dismantled and now working. Bigger problem is I have found that the Hi/Low beam rocker switch has broken off where the small screw goes in to keep it in place. I don't think any glue will fix that, Have you heard if anyone has been able to buy bits like that, I cannot see them sold on the normal parts suppliers, separately that is. $300.00 Aussie Pesos for new switchgear from Munichmotorcycles here. (thats $298.00 USD at the moment.) RT

RT, new switchgear: $156.00AU + postage from Motobins in the UK. I use them all the time and they have more stuff and are cheaper (including the postage too) than MunichM.

I've ordered stuff and it takes anywhere from 7 days to 12 days to be delivered. An excellent outfit to deal with.

Thanks Neil
I have one feeler out locally from parts man, otherwise I'll be on to them. I knew Munich was expensive, but mostly only buy small things so haven't worried about it too much.
This is the last fix before blue slip so it's getting frustrating.
Hope you keeping your feet dry my man that looks serious up there.
Regards RT.

I've done my share of foul weather riding, so my bike is sitting in the shed waiting for the rain to clear...that was two weeks ago and it looks like we have another week more!

But I can handle it...I sit on the bike and make engine noises and pretend to ride the bike!

JOKING! but I have thought of it.

Perfect timing Bert! Looks like I've got to take mine apart to solve some issues.

J

RT wrote:Bert
Hi/Low beam rocker switch has broken off where the small screw goes in to keep it in place. I don't think any glue will fix that, Have you heard if anyone has been able to buy bits like that, I cannot see them sold on the normal parts suppliers, separately that is. RT

I went to my after sales service guys who work on these old girls and got a kill switch for my bike for FREE from their busted parts bin. The casing had been rashed, but the bits inside it were fine. You may want to check for something similar, would sure save you a lot of money.

Looks like my starter switch is toast. :-( Does anyone know if the Euro switch is plug n play with the American models.
Thanks!
J

I just pulled the starter button out of the rashed casing, it's held in by one c-clip once you pull it apart.

Sorry back to the Hi/Lo button. Another problem surfaced after I installed a new 2nd hand rocker switch. It still didn't work. SO as not to appear too dumb I checked the wires with a basic meter. No power to the Hi/Lo switch.
I have traced back thru the Load shedding relay,and then the fuse, still no power on the line. Everything else works on the bike, except the blue High beam light on the consul, and the High Beam globe (won't flash on Hi either).
What have I missed, it must be reasonably simple but it has beaten me. I am red/green colourblind so ntg too technical in the harness dept pls.
I have managed to print off the relative circuitry page, but am at a loss, again to see where else I should be looking. Oh, new globe installed, fuse
reads ok.
Tks RT

This is where a test light works perfectly and you simply start back at the place where the feed for the light starts from and trace it forward with the test light, at one point the light will light on one side of that point which is closest electrically to the battery and on the other side it wont, you have then found the break in the circuit.

It could be a break in the copper cable under the insulation because the wire has been flexing back and forward and has fatigue broken the wire or it could be a faulty light relay or socket.

Just move up the circuit with the test light and you will find it. The advantage of the test light is it draws current to light the bulb and a bad joint which would still show good voltage with a meter which draws very little current will show up under the test lamp load.
Regards,
K-BIKE

Thanks K-BIKE
will get on to that and see where it leads me. Back to the diagrams and funny coloured wires. Good suggestion tho. I am wondering if the Hi/Lo blue light doesn't work, aka failed globe, that the circuit shuts down. Sounds far fetched but I'll check it first as I have all that part exposed at the moment.
Cheers mate.

RT,

If you had followed the post of people having problems with the starter, you should know that when not energized, the starter provides the ground for the load shed relay.
The horn relay, temperature sensing unit, flashers and the high/low beam get their power from the load shed relay.
Do they work?
If not, it could be a problem with the load shed relay.
In this case, you should ground the big wire feeding the starter motor (DO NOT PRESS THE STARTER BUTTON). If your lights and horn are starting working you will have found the culprit...... The starter!

Thanks again,
I guess my lack of technical prowess is showing through. I have replaced the load shed relay and the horn and flashers work fine, that's why I was getting frustrated. I'll take your advice and work back from the starter.
RT

Hello All;
It must be the season of the lost low beam....So here goes;

• ignition on
  
• LH headlight switch set to default low beam
  
• normal dash indicator lights on
  
• lights on tail and park light
  
• RH switch set to low beam (full left)
  
• no low beam evident park only
  
• starter operated, park light goes off, and then back on again seconds later
  
• high beam can be selected on and off ( momentary and fixed)
  
• replacement bulb (prechecked) fitted and same result as with original bulb.
  
• all fuses ok
  

Ok then where to now....everything else works fine....have sprayed WD40 into switches and can hear relays operating.

Power is getting in at the left switch and not out to the low beam. Do you have relays on the headlight and if not the switch may have over heated and melted some plastic. Its a good starting point to pull the switch apart and check power in and out.

Thanks Rick, no relays that I am aware of ...as power goes through both LH and RH switches I was unsure which to crack open first.LH you say...so it is to be.
Will keep you informed ....
Cheers JK

klompy ..check the under tank connectors as well ...we have seen these corroded up in here before . and is a good place to measure the ins and outs

Klompy wrote:Thanks Rick, no relays that I am aware of ...

If you ain`t got relays in the headlight circuit, do your self a favor and install a set.........to avoid problems with the hi/lo switch.

charlie99 wrote:klompy ..check the under tank connectors as well ......

+1, before tearing the switch apart............


This link could become useful, when dismantling the switch.

I should have said about installing some relays, they made an enormous difference to my K1100.

+ 1

ok then guys

• checked connectors all good and lubed up now
  
• pulled switch apart with aid of very good diagrams supplied here
  
• cleaned and lubed no sign of overheating
  

symptoms are

• everything works fine other than low beam.....
  
• checked bulb by replacement x 3 no change
  
• fuses checked
  

time to check the other switch on rh side....any directions for this one?

cheers klompy

Does the Hi beam only work when you use it to flash or on the normal Hi/Lo switch because the power source is different and the HI/Lo source is from the right switch block and source for flash is direct from the left switch block and not via the right switch.

If your high beam functions fine, the problem must be in the LHS switch....as high and low beam is feed from the same wire (white/yellow).

The pass light (when you push the button up) is feed from another wire (green/blue),
and not via the RHS switch.

might be a good idea to clean and check the actuall bulb connector klompy ...we have seen a few that have become faulty . just look for a slight blackening around the socket when viewed from the front (bulb remooved )

do your measurements there mate ....you should be able to wiggle enough of the connector out to get at the bulb connectors directly ....

hope that helps

Rick G wrote:Does the Hi beam only work when you use it to flash or on the normal Hi/Lo switch because the power source is different and the HI/Lo source is from the right switch block and source for flash is direct from the left switch block and not via the right switch.

Hiya Rick...yep it works on flash to high and continuous on to high.....its as if the low beam element had blown...but it has not....will check the 3 point bulb connector more thoroughly....

Inge K. wrote:If your high beam functions fine, the problem must be in the LHS switch....as high and low beam is feed from the same wire (white/yellow).

The pass light (when you push the button up) is feed from another wire (green/blue),
and not via the RHS switch.

Have borrowed another left hand switch unit and the same condition applies...or is this one busted too??...nope took it apart and gave it a complete bay service as per excellent instructions and the same ......mmmmmm...will get the multi meter and check for power along the line....

Klompy the grey brick wrote:Have borrowed another left hand switch unit and the same condition applies...or is this one busted too??...nope took it apart and gave it a complete bay service as per excellent instructions and the same ......mmmmmm...will get the multi meter and check for power along the line....

My previous answer was based on that you wanted to open the RHS switch assy.
Which I did find unnecessary if your high beam did function correctly,
as hi/lo is powered from the same wire.

But I should have added....(the problem must be in the LHS switch assy)......
or the wiring/connectors after this.

Hello all, I am now the proud owner of a 1984 K100RS with low and wait for it...........high beam.

I fitted 2 relays for the low and high beams, checked the connector and fired it up and all works....the added bonus is I now know how to pull apart and refit LH and RH switches.

I suspect the connection at the bulb....next step a nice HID unit...

thanks again guys for the insight ...one day I will find a question that is a real challenge....