Yesterday I tuned up my K100RS. After having the engine running stationary for around 30 minutes, the engine was suddenly slowing down fast and off.

I thought it was the battery but I found out it was the fuel pump stopped running and the fuel and the pump inside were very boiling hot. I believe the fuel pump is faulty.

A friend suggested to me to replace it with fuel pump for Peugot 405 series. He says that it is of the same diameter so it will fit into the holder nicely but a bit shorter than original.

Another friend has successfully replace the fuel pump with the unit used in Toyota Avanza (a small 1000cc / 1300cc SUV). This unit is smaller diameter than BMW original.

Tomorrow I am going to check the suggestion and I will update the result.

Good luck to me.

Adiwan, check Opel pump. I think its almost identical to K pump

Hi nino,

Thanks for your input. What type of Opel is it?

Regards

Peugeot 205 GTi is a straight swop. Done it myself.

Hello Comberjohn,

Thanks for the advise.

Cheers.

I am not shure, but you can check Daewoo too, because models from ninethies are technicaly identical.

Regards

the nipon denso out of any of the toyotas (efi models) should work well adiwan

i mounted mine some 30,000 ks ago or more and still going strong

had to modify the mount slightly and add a height retension strap , to stop the pump falling to the bottom of the tank . 51mm instead of the 52 mm bosch unit

a good choice as they only draw low current as well

Comberjohn wrote:Peugeot 205 GTi is a straight swop. Done it myself.

Apologies for my original reply to this post - having checked my records it turns out that I actually used the pump from a 1984/85 Peugeot 1.6 GTi, which was an exact "like for like" fit for my pump - sorry for any confusion

I was looking at after market Peugeot 205 GTI fuel pump and found a company called Walbro selling one. Here is a Fleabay link.
Another aftermarket one is Sytec

It would be interesting to check these companies and see the specs for the pumps.

CF

Hi Adiwan

Running an engine while stationary will heat the fuel in the tank from the heat generated by the engine running. Depends on how much fuel is in the tank to absorb the heat. Also on how hot the day was.

Hot fuel can then vaporise in the fuel rail causing the engine to cut out.

A good test is to let everything cool down and see if it runs normally then.

Do you have insulation fitted to the underside of the tank? Should be about 1cm thick felt-like material with aluminium foil on each side. Was standard on most K1100s.

Crazy Frog wrote:I was looking at after market Peugeot 205 GTI fuel pump and found a company called Walbro selling one. Here is a Fleabay link.
Another aftermarket one is Sytec

It would be interesting to check these companies and see the specs for the pumps.

CF

The one I used was for a 1984/85 Peugeot 1.6GTi and was, unlike the link above, an exact fit with the correct diameter etc. to fit our old ladies. The newer pump can be fitted but requires a fitting kit to make it fit the in tank recess etc. of our bikes. The job is certainly possible using the adaptor kit - use the search function of the forums for Fuel Pump replacements.

I thank you all for the input, comment and advise.

The fuel tank has insulation with outer aluminium foil underneath it. During stationary running, the cooling fan was running on / off automatically. This is fine.

I found out the fuel pump was very hot and stop working. It may be a problem due to normal wear and tear considering the old age.

Later today I will check fuel pump of Peugot / Toyota and buy the best fit.

I shall update you with the result.

Cheers.

Adiwan Djohanli wrote:I thank you all for the input, comment and advise.

The fuel tank has insulation with outer aluminium foil underneath it. During stationary running, the cooling fan was running on / off automatically. This is fine.

I found out the fuel pump was very hot and stop working. It may be a problem due to normal wear and tear considering the old age.

Later today I will check fuel pump of Peugot / Toyota and buy the best fit.

I shall update you with the result.

Cheers.

Hi, the tank insulation reduces the heat transfer thru the bottom, but on these bikes the returning fuel hose's path may cause the fuel to get very hot, so when it reaches the tank all the fuel will get hot, to the point that when traveling by the injection system it may boil forming bubbles that will restrict the flow causing power loss and eventually an engine shut off. This may happens specially with the engine at idle on hot climates.
The solution I found is to isolate the fuel hoses and change the returning fuel hose's path.
Hope this helps
Best regards
JAP

Good point JAP, my return hose is running through between Number 1 and 2 throttle bodies, I've been meaning to re reroute it but haven't done so yet, might be time as I have to put a new fuel pump in myself.

Good luck Adiwan
RT

bob to eliminate heat ...between 1 and 2 is good ....ex factory they travel along the back of the radiator ..which im sure is fine when snow is around or even cooler climates ,,,but for us folks ...in the 30s and higher ...big issue is keeping it cool ...

Hello guys,

Thanks again for the advises. Everyday I learn new things here. I haven't bought a new fuel pump yet due to work load.But I will do it over the week end at the latest.

Cheers.

Hey Adiwan
it must be pretty hot over there most of the year, how does your engine cope. Ever have actual overheating problems? (apart from the fuel pump at the moment).
Just wondering, as we all complain here but we live in a milder climate compared to you.

Thanks
RT

Hi RT,

I do not have engine overheating here. The temperature is around 35 degrees C. Bearing in mind, I have cleaned the whole water cooling system (radiator, engine, etc).

I use chemical cleaning. Put in the chemical into radiator, run for about 10 minutes. Discharge it and rinse twice with fresh water. Finally fill in the radiator with fresh water.

The chemicals is descaler which I formulate and produce myself.

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The most common cause of overheating is scale inside the cooling water system, considering the bike is old.

Cheers.

Hello Guys,

I bought a new fuel pump, was advice by the shop that it is for Peugot 206 / 306 late model (??). It is Bosch 0 580 453 453, diameter 40mm, made in germany, costs USD 25. Here is the picture. The 2 green tubes are sleeves to hold it into the brown bracket.


After assemble I fitted the pump back.


I started the bike, run stationary well for about 10 minutes. Then I rode it for about 30 minutes 60 - 80 km/h. On my return I notice the fuel tank was warn. Thanks again for the advise.

I will ride the bike again for longer time in the next days. I believe the fuel supply shall be sufficient with the new pump now.

Cheers.

adiwan ...there is normally a rubber boot that connects to the bracket you have pictured ....the rubber usually suports the pump ...(a noise and vibration damper i guess )

the rubber perishes over time, i wonder if it has been remooved on purpose ?

To add to Charlie picture, ........single parts..



Could also be a good idea to put a sieve to the bottom of the pump.

Hi Adiwan.
I noticed earlier in your thread you mentioned flushing out the cooling system and refilling with fresh water.
Maybe you, or some of our more technical brethren, can correct me, but I was always told that a water/glycol mix was essential for lubricating certain components in an aluminium engine. Water pump, thermostat, etc.
Suppose its unlikely that your engine will freeze though!

Ref the photo Inge just posted.
The pump I used was identical to the original was supposed to be from a 1.9 GTi and had an aluminium gauze filter on the bottom of the pump. A much stronger job than the nylon one on the original pump.
Cost £10/$16 on flea bay.

Comberjohn wrote:but I was always told that a water/glycol mix was essential for lubricating certain components in an aluminium engine. Water pump, thermostat, etc.

+1.

And the glykol also contains corrosion inhibitors, which degrades over time.....
which is the the reason to that the coolant should be changed every two year.

And tap water should not be used as it causes deposits in the cooling system.....
it should be demineralized water.

There is no rubber boot in my bike. I believe it is lost somehow. I must find a replacement.

Regarding cooling water / liquid, being in tropical climate, we do not need glycol in cooling system. Demineralized water shall be sufficient. You must have glycol as anti freezing agent in your system for cold countries.

Cheers.

Glycol also lets the heat transfer more quickly so in a hot climate you also need it because it makes for better cooling and the anticorosion properties are also needed as the corosion will happen quicker in a warm climate so you need to protect the engine just as much in a hot climate as in a cold one.

Adiwan Djohanli wrote:There is no rubber boot in my bike. I believe it is lost somehow. I must find a replacement.

Regarding cooling water / liquid, being in tropical climate, we do not need glycol in cooling system. Demineralized water shall be sufficient. You must have glycol as anti freezing agent in your system for cold countries.

Cheers.

Hi there, I have to disagree
As far as I know, demineralized water, alone, is a very corrosive substance. Mixed with the antifreeze is very good but alone no. Demineralized water can be a part of the cooling fluid.
If you dont want to use the antifreeze, use mineral water (bottled water) or tap water on an emergency, but not using aditives is a bad practice.
Antifreeze has the glycol and the aditives required to protect from corrosion and scales and lubricate the system, it also increases boiling temperature.
I use it with bottled water, as we at the tropics dont need too much anti freezing protection use it at the lowest concentration recomended by the maker.
Hope this helps
Best regards
JAP

Hello Jap,

The quality of water for cooling system is important. Bottled (drinking) water contains minerals. These minerals can cause scale which will insulate the heat transfer from engine to the heat carrier (cooling liquid/water). Therefore demineralized water is the second best. The best shall be distilled water.

The corrosion happens due to oxygen in water and acidity (pH <7). Neutral condition, pH = 7 is the best, however a slight alkalinity ids preferred. A simple and cheap additives against corrosion is caustic soda (very strong alkali). a tiny amount say 10-30ppm is enough to protect against corrosion. there are many other types of chemicals can be used for corrosion inhibitor such as amine compound, but I shall not too technical in chemistry.
Bearing in mind the quality of water must be checked.

I do hope the above shall be a useful information.

Cheers.

Inge K. wrote:

Comberjohn wrote:but I was always told that a water/glycol mix was essential for lubricating certain components in an aluminium engine. Water pump, thermostat, etc.

+1.

And the glykol also contains corrosion inhibitors, which degrades over time.....
which is the the reason to that the coolant should be changed every two year.

And tap water should not be used as it causes deposits in the cooling system.....
it should be demineralized water.

Side note: Modern anti-freeze for our bikes is glycol based, but also contains corrosion inhibitors, as mentioned above. It must be mixed, 50/50 with DISTILLED water.

IF you use anything but distilled water, the special corrosion inhibitors 'mistake' the trace minerals in the water as 'corrosion' - and instantly bond to them. Thus instantly decreases the life of the corrosion inhibitors down... in some cases to zero. Just by mixing the anti-freeze with tap water or mineral water or anything but distilled water!

Back when I was a magazine writer, I did quite a bit of research on this for an article, and learned a lot. As a result of the published article, Yamaha immediately revised their service intervals for their liquid-cooled motorcycles.

I use water from a dehumidifier mixed with antifreeze, seems to work OK. I have used it for years in cars. It also works very well in the screen washer as there are no minerals in it, so you don't get limescale to block the jets. I can't use the tap water as it is slightly acidic and eats aluminium.

distilled or demineralized ??? I thought it was de ionized water they used in the thermal power industry that was the best water to get, possibly only thing left in the water by then is the wet feel. So me plumbs for the deionized water as a base additive