BMW K bikes (Bricks)


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roys

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Silver member
Silver member
hi,

I am finaly "there".
Has anyone tips /pics /things to be carefull about on replacing this?
Thank you,
Roy

    

2Back to top Go down   any tips on replacing the rear eng seal? Empty This is how I did it Mon Jun 29, 2009 3:06 am

roys

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Silver member
Silver member
roys wrote:hi,

I am finaly "there".
Has anyone tips /pics /things to be carefull about on replacing this?
Thank you,
Roy

Hi Roy,

Here is how I did it, I hope this helps you.

Desperate times call for desperate measures, so If and when the seal frustrates you, and you do not have any special tools AND as both Haynes and Clymer casually state that it should be extracted, than you can do as I did:

1. Apply 5-6 (1cm NOT longer) metal screws, evenly spaced, to seal – do not tighten. A small hand held drill will do greatly.
2. Attach long metal wires (I used ~120cm) to screws, tighten them twice around screw.
3. Tighten screw to seal.
4. Band the wires at 2 points, one about 40cm from seal and one about 80cm from seal. Make sure all wires are evenly tight.
5. Tie the band of 5-6 wires around sledge hammer handle near weight.
6. Have an assistant hold bike to prevent it moving backwards!
7. Swing sledge hammer, gently! in such an arc that when it give the pull all wires will be evenly loaded.
8. It took me 3 easy swings to pop seal out that before refused all my efforts.
Entire procedure took me 15 minutes compared to 2 hours fighting with seal using all kinds of tools. After 22y in bike original seal simply would not move – not difficult to see that I lost my temper at some point.
Also, when I pulled with pliers on screws put into seal, entire bike started sliding backwards on top of me! While with hammer all it took were three easy swings.

any tips on replacing the rear eng seal? _mg_8210
any tips on replacing the rear eng seal? _mg_8211
any tips on replacing the rear eng seal? _mg_8215
any tips on replacing the rear eng seal? _mg_8216
any tips on replacing the rear eng seal? _mg_8217

    

Cristoff

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active member
active member
Hi there, i have a questions about this seal. Its leaking at my bike, and i wasnt change it when i took out gearbox to change auxiliary shaft bearings.
So- need to do now-again disassemble all of things Smile
Questions are:
-do i need 250 + degrease of Celsious resistance of sealing ? Or 150 is enough ?
-do i need 'left'(coz output shaft is turning left mostly-am i right ?) seal or both direction be fine ?
-do i need second anti dust thing on seal ?
I found at catalogue that i need to buy size 50x80x10, but at my local dealer they have only 50x80x8 resisted up to +250 deg Celsious with anti dust, left direcion. Maby it will be enough dont push it deep, or push it deep and then bo working on fresh part of flywheel shaft?
Another option is to buy 50x80x10 resisted to 150 deg celsious, both direction - used to automotive.
What you recomend for me ?
Thank You
Crisstof
forgive me im writing 2 times same, but wast sure which topic should i use.

    

K-BIKE

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Life time member
Life time member
Hi Cristoff,
These seals have been a problem and BMW took a while to get the optimum solution. Frankly it is such a job to get to the seal it is really not worth gambling since in Europe and many other country locations the genuine BMW seal is as Bert says under 30 Euro. So given inconvenience of the job to get it out I would not use any other seal even if the genuine seals were 100 Euro versus 1 Euro for an alternative. Just my way of looking at it, I do not want to tear down twice if I could get away with once:-)
Regards,
K-BIKE

    

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