92KK 84WW Olaf
Life time member
Number of posts : 7955
I have just done the head bearings and cannot believe they were so bad.
I have the K almost 2 1/2 years and when I got it I gave it the works:
All new oils.
All new filters, air, oil, fuel.
Repair leaking rear master cylinder [new seals] a common problem.
Replaced battery.
Repalced clutch cable.
Replaced one mirror glass.
Checked brakes [pads ok still]
Replaced one fairing panel, it had been crudely cut for speakers.
This year due to electrical problems I redid all the connections under the fuel tank, opened and cleaned all of the earths. The electrical non start problem led to me replace the starter relay and load shed relays which were not the cause. A replacement ICU did cure the problem, cleaned off all the electrical connections with wet or dry 1200 grade, used dry for obvious reasons. If you are at the electrics open the conection at the ICU and check the terminals, clean them off etc.
I also found the fuel lines perished. These are special BMW ones due to high pressure and you will likely find these perished. Failed fuel lines are common source of auto fires. For safety replace them, if they fail you get high pressure fuel sprayed over the engine/injectors etc [how do I know, but it happened when I was testing it] where there are lots of sparks. When you do this if you use worm drive/Jubilee clips strategically placed [wing nut ones are even better, no tools needed, 4 golf tees in your tool kit] you can undo these to remove the tank without having to remove any fairing parts!!! [A small modification might be needed to the fuel pump wiring to access it more easily]. If you use slightly longer fuel lines you can raise and prop the rear of the tank to access the relay box without disconnecting anything!!! [there is room in the relay box to hold spare bulbs too].
More recently did head bearings. They were dried out with grease gone all hard. I knew there was option of just clean and regrease but my experience of this is that there is more work in that than replacing them and the chances are they are shot. I examined the old ones very carefully and in the light you could see the wear ridges in the outer races. The grease was caked quite hard and completely useless. My advice is replace the bearings and the tracks, new grease and all will be right. You might get some problems removing forks/nut/etc due to seized fastenings but these can be solved too. Mine also showed up a need for a replacement brake hose.
I have found that my exhaust nuts are badly corroded. As in they are unlikely to be removed without failing, requiring a drilling out job and possible damage to the cylinder head. I made a decision to keep going as this is only an issue for me if I need the head off or need the exhaust off. I have 97,000 miles up and the only real thing looking at me is timing chain/tensioners etc so I will keep going. Getting the exhaust studs out will not be easy, not easy to work under the engine so it could me a case of get bike upside down or remove engine.
I hope this is helpful. Its not all madly difficult or expensive. Total parts cost in 2 1/2 years is about €450 [US$350] including oil changes, oil.
92KK
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1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red 578 bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 689 58,645 now 106,950 miles Deceased.
1983 K100RS 0011157 Fricka 606 Alaska Blue 29,495 miles Damn K Pox Its a Bat outta Hell Now 58,200 miles.
1996 K1100LT 0233004 Lohengrin Mystic Red 38,000 miles currently 51,800 miles.
1983 K100RS 0004449 Odette R100 colours 58,000 miles. Sprint fairing now 63,390 miles
Past:
1968 Yamaha 80 YG1
1971 Yamaha 125 YAS-1
1968 Honda 125 SS
1970 Honda CD 175
1973 Honda CB500-4
Honda CX 500