I've been very busy at home last few days stripping bike down replacing seals that leak on output shaft and, the water pump . Bike has been re-assembled but it leaks-water from the front plate and oil from the big hole where my sensor wires come from. I'm guessing the sealant isn't holding, how long should i leave the sealant before filling with oil and water and running? I've been at it a while now but i'm so close.

Not knowing what material you're using(??) normally you apply it on both side in a very thin layer and leave it for 20-30 mins and then you put it together, slowly torquing it down. That normally does the trick.

Cheers ReneZ,

Its the blue sealant from motorworks, my error has been not applying the sealant to both sides and waiting the 20-30 mins before fitting.

I'd only done one side of a join and fitted it in 10. Always learning. Will try again tomorrow time for a

Thanks again

I also believe that once you have tightened the bolts up... walk away from the bike and don't add water and oil for approx 24 hours.... (maybe being overly cautious there!) It is what I am going to be doing tomorrow as I am going to get everything back on the engine.

That way the gasket has plenty of time to cure before you add fluids which will find any way out..

nods head .....i agree twincarb ...just leave it to cure off properly

dont forget that little notch which is the over presure return to sump ....kinda looks like a half moon ..make sure it is free of sealant and open to allow the return flow

captaink wrote:Its the blue sealant from motorworks,

Which kind?............if it`s Hylomar it isn`t suited for the oil pressure.

Inge K. wrote:

captaink wrote:Its the blue sealant from motorworks,

Which kind?............if it`s Hylomar it isn`t suited for the oil pressure.

Granville blue gasket sealant 40g | OIA11023 (motorworks code)



twincarb, charlie99 and ReneZ - I've done exactly as you've suggested, I reckon 2 more hours and I'll fill her up.....fingers crossed this time :|

will keep you posted

captaink

I used the Loctite brand sealant recommended by BMW on all my water/oil gasket areas.

Didn't wait more than an hour i guess before i filled it with oil and water and fired it up, let it idle up to temp. No leaks. I try to be really fussy with making sure the surfaces are super clean before applying sealant. Maybe i have just been lucky but even when i was doing Turbo/Supercharged car engines etc i never waited more than an hour for sealant to cure.

captaink wrote:

Inge K. wrote:

captaink wrote:Its the blue sealant from motorworks,

Which kind?............if it`s Hylomar it isn`t suited for the oil pressure.

Granville blue gasket sealant 40g | OIA11023 (motorworks code)

Don`t have any experience with that sealant.

But Motorworks also have/had the blue Hylomar, which isn`t suited.

A step forward, no oil leak, no leak from the front of the pump. Water leaks from hole where the sensor wires come from.

It aint my weekend.

Is the o ring the issue because of where it leaks?

I await your responses before i strip it down again.


captain useless at water pumps

You could be correct about the O-ring, as a leaking shaft seal normaly
would leak out of the weep hole.

Can`t think of any other possibilities at this moment.

On the other hand the O-ring is bit to far to the side of the pump housing, so it don`t seems that likely.

A glogged weep hole channel?


How about you Charlie? You did recently rebuild yours.....

I've just double checked, no leak from weep hole.

It ran lovely - maybe 10-15 mins then dribble started.

i guess its all got to come apart again then.

I have done 2 recently, I think if it is comming from the hole where wires go then it may still be the cover. If it is leaking around the O ring it probably wouldn't get to the wires it would run down futher to the left of the engine.

It appears ok on left side of bike.

Perhaps it is the front plate.....cant see though.

I guess only solution is to take front plate off and have look behind.

Yeah I'd give that a go before anything else. One that I did took me 3 goes to get it to seal, it was OK till the pressure built up. I personally dont like the no gasget approach they would be much easier with a good gasget

You should also be able to judge it when removing the cover.
I assume the pump was clean and dry on the top, when the cover was mounted.

yes quite possibly the cover plate .....if it was weeping it would flow back to the valley behind then out the hole for the cables ...

what i did was to surface sand the cover plate so i had a fresh new face to seal to.... i used 400 wet and dry ...

i also checked the surface to pump body for distortions ..



there was a couple of residue spots up in the top right ..which cleaned up with some thinners

it might also be important to start in the middle and work outwards when doing up the screws

Plate came off, didnt see any water in valley behind the O-ring part.
Water sat in valley by the wire hole.
Water also in top valley, top right.

So i think water is coming from top right flowing down to wire hole.

The pump will stay on the bike

Inge K. - Yeah the pump body was clean and dry.

When the bike ran earlier it was for about 10-15 mins no problems, the fan kicked in and was still ok. I switched off the bike when fan stopped then the dribble started.

Rick G - I'm surprised there is no rubber gasket available as an after-market upgrade perhaps.

Charlie99 - There is evidence of a previous water leak top right on the plate.

If it leaks again I'll try another brand of sealer....somebody mentioned loctite but which number would be best.

I have used Permatex black RTV earlier, with good results.

As you can see that it previously have been a leak at the same spot,
it might be a idea to sand the surface...as Charlie did.

might be a good idea to put a straight edge accross the cover plate sealing face , measuring for a slight distortion .

i was surprised that you let it get up to fan activation ..so soon after sealing it down . getting it warm would help with the cureing .....possibly next time try with the water cap off ....so it doesnt get full expansion presure ....then after the cool down (should take an hour or so )...put the cap on , making sure that there is little air in the system .

i used "drie bond" sealant ...worked for me ...but any reasonable sealant should work on the water pump face .

hope that helps

I have/did sand the plate and body so all parts are shiny, but i do wonder if perhaps its not even .....and thats only because its leaking. I used i steel ruler to check but maybe thats not the correct way.

Charlie - i'll try that next time, perhaps run the bike for a short time maybe 5 mins or till temperature is half way on gauge and then let it sit, at the time i didnt think the fan coming on was a problem.... until now.

How many times du think the bike should be started/stopped before getting really hot? I never even thought about running bike without cap on.

And also wait a few hours with the first startup, so the sealant is allowed to cure.

Yeah will do, although i did wait 24 hrs this time. I'm still learning, its a joy to work on.

sanding the plate so its shiny is only half the job ...what i had done but not explained. well , was to use a new sheet of wet and dry accross an extreemly flat surface ...my operation was to grind off the high spots so that the whole cover would have a flat surface to start with . some recommend a bit of glass for this as it is extreemly flat and wont distort at all .

i had done the pump face and rear before getting to this point .

yes a couple of warm only sesions might be appropriate ...that would give it several hours curing time before fitting the cap and a full run at presure ..

funny but its the way that ive always done it ....the reasoning is to allow all the air - water to circulate properly ...usually you will see bubbles come out of all the nooks and crannies down inside .you might notice that it will suck a fair bit more fluid in this process to get back to "full "..it also allows the impeller not just cavitate but take in new fuid all the time amd push it through the system ...you need to get the thermostat to open as well to let the fuid do a full flow through the radiator ...so that means getting it up to about 80 degrees c ....(umm 160 -180 f ?) maybe on the second run ?

you can usually manouver the tank whilst keeping fuel rails connected to get to the cap and observe the drop in fluid and let the air escape ..given that the rubber fuel lines arent too tight or short at least

but try not to stess the fuel pump electrical connections in that process ......i have found you can route the connector / wiring around the frame to allow a bit of manovering .

One of the best flat surfaces is a piece of tempered glass. I have one that used to be part of the door to a microwave oven. Wet it and a sheet of 400 grit wet sandpaper and it will come out flat.

Thanks for all your advice so far guys certainly keeps me focused.

Up-date :- Re-checked flatness of front cover, unable to check pump part as thats secure and not leaking. Re-sealed last night, filled this morning and gently run for 5 mins not pressurised and no leak.
I have run the bike twice now enough to get thermostat open, still no leak but still not pressurised.

Having a

Just waiting a little longer before i screw the cap on.

Anything else I should do/consider before screwing cap on.

Perhaps over cautious now.

prommising results ...keep at it !!

and good luck this time around .

Just run bike for 10/15 mins in garage, temperature gauge just below 3/4 fan kicked in and still no leak.

In this run revs taken upto 2500 rpm. Time for a ride up the road and back i think.

Good luck Captian K.....88KE out!

Thank you everybody for all your help and words of encouragement.

Just been on a trip and no leaks. I'm kinda presuming that i wont get anything now. Got her up to a massive 60mph and waited in the usual traffic back in town, i didnt want to push my luck by going too far away.

Rick G wrote:One of the best flat surfaces is a piece of tempered glass. I have one that used to be part of the door to a microwave oven. Wet it and a sheet of 400 grit wet sandpaper and it will come out flat.

I wouldn't recomend using tempered glass. Tempering glass can sometimes give glass a slight curve if it's first or last out of the oven. Regular annealed glass would be better suited for this kind of work. Also, the thicker the better. At least 3/8" (10mm) glass or thicker. Most glass companies will give you a sample if you ask for one. Hope this helps, Alyson

I check with a strait edge but, more than anything the beauty of the glass is that when the sandpaper is wet it really sticks to it and is easy to use.
I used glass with valve grinding paste to fit the cases of my triumph, many years ago, it worked well the bike only leaked half as much as it did before.

Rick G wrote:I check with a strait edge but, more than anything the beauty of the glass is that when the sandpaper is wet it really sticks to it and is easy to use.
I used glass with valve grinding paste to fit the cases of my triumph, many years ago, it worked well the bike only leaked half as much as it did before.

Hi Rick, Your oven door glass was most likely not tempered as tempered glass can't absorb the heat and will break. Most likely it is pyro-ceram or neo-ceram glass or a similar make up of glass. I've seen tempered glass installed in fireplace glass screens and it will break. It doesn't hold up well in oven doors either. You're right on with the wet sand paper as it does hold extemely well. I just wanted to clarify that it's not uncommon for tempered glass to be bent so tempered glass would not be the best choice. Hope this helps, Alyson

"And still they gaz'd and still the wonder grew,
That one small head could carry all he knew."

(From the Village schoolmaster by Oliver Goldsmith)

It never ceases to amaze me the stuff people on this forum know! Everyday is a learning day

I had set aside a piece of stove door glass for the workshop....I shall now sling it and get something less exotic.

88

I do hope you didn't take it from the current stove, SWMBO would not be impressed

I used a mirror to do my triumph sat it on a towel on the bench, works a treat, but then again not much downward pressure either, but a mirror looks flat and is opticly easy to check

took me about 4 attempts to seal mine, i think due to the high oil pressure, unregulated at the pump. I even made an 0.25mm paper gasket but it blew out instantly. In the end i used permatex rtv and placed a small heater below the pump for hours until the front of the engine was hot to the touch. Only then did i fill the engine with fluids and start up.