When we met by chance in the summer of 1999, she was a one owner commuter; garage kept and well cared for. It was a love at first site that would change my life forever. I named her ichimokusan but a year later I would start calling her The Shop Whore because she like to be on her back on a lift letting the mechanic fuck with her. She didn’t blink a headlight as I forked out almost $10,000 over 18 months and what’s worse, neither did I. Who know you could have an S&M relationship with a motorcycle? She kept hurting my wallet and I kept coming back for more. She owned me.

After 181,000 miles shared together, making her carry WAY more than her makers ever designed for and trying hard as hell to convince her she was indeed a dirt bike and just needed more practice, the toll was too great. I put her out to pasture in hopes that one day I would have the time and money needed to do a full restoration.
Instead, one day never came and years pasted and she became an edifice to my desire exceeding my resources.
Last week as I looking for ways to save or create funds to make ends meet, I thought I could sell her for parts because she was worth more dead than alive.
It was killing me to think about it. I stared at own failure to honor my trust to take good care of her. I felt guilty for sitting on the potential resources she could provide for my family. 

I was crying while trying to pulling The Shop Whore apart but I Jim Beam will ease any pain…for a while.

You can't know what this bike has meant to me and you can't know how deeply I have loved it. I don't expected anyone to understand how I feel about my K11's not even my husband. He dose try though, or at least doesn’t dismiss my feelings.
The next morning we talked and it was agreed we would find the money somewhere to make ends meet.

This has been her sad tomb for over three years











 

After skinning her, I started gutting her.


I disemboweled her.


Bleeding it out is best done before gutting, but in my distressed state of mind I forgot this.



Next hang it up but I would suggest not using suboptimum string, even if it’s all you have laying around; smashed fingers will delay proceeding



Now It’s mostly apart




And the wiring harness is mostly intact.






Remember the bleeding before gutting part…just sayin’



This week I’ll start cleaning, bagging and tagging parts and making a shopping list.



Tomorrow I’ll mount the engine.


 
My basement aka workshop.



After the New Year I’ll start by powder coating the frame dark blue.

Anton has always been so kind to me and supportive of my wrenching. When I spoke with him this week he offered to help show me how to do a complete top end, rings and water/oil pump rebuild.
I’m glad to be owning my responsibility to The Shop Whore and I hope with the extra hours I’m working at the hospital and possible second part time job I could be done in 1 year

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Good to see you are rejuvenating the old whore, it would be a shame to see a relationship like that fall apart. She served you well and without much complaint so it's fitting that a retirement and easy life should be on it's way.

G'day Shoganai , after reading your thread title I thought oh no not another cafe racer hack job , glad that after many miles of service you are returning the favour , I'll be following along , best wishes

JR

nice post miss .....thanks for the reminder that our old girls are a special thang
much luck to you

keep us up to date please ....we love these rejuvenation storys  

It's great to see you here Gwen. I'll be using your re-build as inspiration.

So I got all the parts kinda organized.

I skipped cleaning anything and I only labeled a few things. I may regret that later, but what the hell, I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

Here's all the small parts.



And here's all the big parts.































.

Thank you all for the warm welcome.

Next, get the engine off the floor.
Using the intermediate housing bolts hole for the engine mount seems natural however the bracket I'm using is for car engines. That is to say it's real big when compared to the back side of a k1100 transmission housing.

I took some measurements and determined I needed (4) 8M x 1.25 x 80 bolts.
Ace Hardware, Auto Zone, Advance Auto and Lowes didn't have any but NAPA did.



Steve showed me how to use washers to provide a good contact surface, shim the bolts and help center them in the bracket.
After 30 min. of trying several combinations of bolt locations I found one that would work. I didn't want to use the mounting pin locations but found I had no choice.



So I shimmed it with a pair of washers to help transfer the force to the housing.







I did much better using this home made lifting system this time and things went smoothly. Especially considering I've never done anything like this.

Next, remove everything from the frame.



The red circles are to help me remember where these parts go later.

















The BMW Service Manual said to mark these so I did. The Clymer did not.




This needs 'splainin'.



I could not loosen the nut on top of the steering head with a ratchet or a ratchet AND a hammer. I kept doubting myself and read and re-read both the Clymer and the Service book.



So I used a ratchet and the pipe for leverage to turn the nut and a crescent wrench to hold the big nut.
I'm sure now I still did it wrong.
What I was calling a 'nut' (number 3) was in fact a screw. I think I was supposed to hold that screw still and turn the real nut (number 4) below it.
Oh well, I'll deal with that later, what is done is done.



I had no problem tapping out the lower bearing race and the top was a SERIOUS PITA.

I've done steering head bearings and races before so this was not my first rodeo. But after 2-1/2 hours I gave up. I knew I did this without a race puller but I think the difference was that I didn't have the weight of the bike to help.

When Steve came home we went to the basement. He flipped the frame upside down and using a slide hammer to hook the race lip he used a real hammer to strike the slid handle.

In the future I'm going to get this awesome tool.

http://www.cycleworks.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=29_33_50&products_id=64&zenid=dd24e28b80aabab215b09df4b355fbec

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBdC8IkwfL4

I know I set (May 2014) as the dead line but Steve and I talked about the reality and the depth of this project last night.

If I only had $200 a month, that's only $2400.
The truth of the matter it will cost several thousand dollars.
Steve estimates $6000

Let me break it out as far as I understand this process.
(just off the top of my head)

1. Powder coat frame - Cobalt blue

2. Powder coat all of the following black. Mixed gloss, matt and flat.
Final Drive
Drive shaft housing
Intermediate housing
Exhaust protection plate
Exhaust bracket left
Both foot peg brackets (black with cobalt blue raised areas)
Transmission housing
shift lever
Triple clamp
fork tubes
handle bar (minus where the controls attach)
Clutch and brake handles
rear brake lever
brake caliper housings
"H" bracket
Rims with cobalt blue pin stripe
Center and side stands
alternator housing cover
Satin Black Velvet Ceramic coated exhaust headers
ChromeX bright polished aluminum ceramic coating exhaust can
Black Gloss Ceramic coating the following
Engine block
Oil sump
Oil pan cover
Timing chain cover
Crack case cover
Cylinder head cover with cobalt blue stripe

Assess every nut, bolt, washer and screw for stainless steel replacement
New wiring harness (I'll make this from scratch)
Rebuild the water/oil pump
Rebuild the top end
Rings and assess cam tolerances
Create functional crash/drop bars for front fairing
Create functional crash/drop bar for panniers
Replace panniers with NEW ones
Repaint the entire bike (color yet to be chosen)


Keep in mind to paint power train (front to rear) they will have to opened and gutted so there'll be a mess of one time use things that'll need to be bought.

.

Making one from scratch would be madness.
I'll making something like this, but not as fancy.





I like this guys pegboard idea a LOT!

http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/1706/PageID/2642/Project-Miatabusa-Part-6--The-Wiring-Job-From-Heck.aspx

All I'll be doing is making a mirror image of the busted one I have minus messed up parts.

.

The first is the Official BMW tools.
The second where I found them WAY Cheaper

**************************************************************
Stahlwille 1501+1511
For contact size of 1.5mm. Bushing size 2.9mm inside, 3.3mm outside. $73.55
http://www.toolsource.com/15011511-kabelex-ejectiontool-p-104402.html

Stahlwille 1504+1514
For contact size 2.5mm, Bushing size 4.0mm inside, 4.4mm outside. $84.31

Stahlwille 1502+1512
For contact size 3.5mm, Bushing size 4.4mm inside, 5.0mm outside. $79.99
 ************************************************************
contact size of 1.5mm.  
http://www.mytoolsforyou.com/automotive-tools/JSP-95929-07.html
Sale Price: $11.19

contact size 2.5mm,
http://www.mytoolsforyou.com/automotive-tools/JSP-95929-06.html
Sale Price: $11.19

contact size 3.5mm,
http://www.mytoolsforyou.com/automotive-tools/JSP-95929-02.html
Sale Price: $8.39
.

Love your work!  Really looking forward to your progress.

There are actually two parts to a form board. The first is the board itself, and the second is the wire connection list.

I'm planning on using a large piece of cardboard for mine (get a large flat screen TV box from your neighborhood home electronics store). I have a spare wiring harness and want to make up a form board for the group. Problem is, the work takes a couple of weeks and I have more pressing things to do.

Lay the current harness out on the cardboard and fasten it in place using twist ties punched through the cardboard. Draw lines fairly accurately noting the direction and angle of the branches. Take photos of each of the connectors and terminators, then paste those photos to the form board off to the side of the original.

Now for the connection list. Use a spreadsheet to collect the data. Give each connector, relay, fuse block, terminal ring, etc. a unique number. Then, using an ohm meter trace each wire connection end-to-end noting the terminations on each side. Connectors, etc. should have assigned pin numbers. Also note the size and color of the wire, as well as any other details.

Once you have collected all that information you will be ready to create a new wire harness.

AJ.Valente wrote:There are actually two parts to a form board. The first is the board itself, and the second is the wire connection list.

I'm planning on using a large piece of cardboard for mine (get a large flat screen TV box from your neighborhood home electronics store). I have a spare wiring harness and want to make up a form board for the group. Problem is, the work takes a couple of weeks and I have more pressing things to do.

Lay the current harness out on the cardboard and fasten it in place using twist ties punched through the cardboard. Draw lines fairly accurately noting the direction and angle of the branches. Take photos of each of the connectors and terminators, then paste those photos to the form board off to the side of the original.

Now for the connection list. Use a spreadsheet to collect the data. Give each connector, relay, fuse block, terminal ring, etc. a unique number. Then, using an ohm meter trace each wire connection end-to-end noting the terminations on each side. Connectors, etc. should have assigned pin numbers. Also note the size and color of the wire, as well as any other details.

Once you have collected all that information you will be ready to create a new wire harness.

Thank you!!!

.

Today I finally get the wiring harness board put together and hung.

This is the original 1993 fuel injection harness. I found a couple of holes and a cluster of cut wires.

I don't have a clue what those cut wires went to, but I'm sure I can find out. Clearly the bike run fine without them because these were not cut by me and I've had it since 1999.

Not being all that familiar with the harness, I would say that one of the "cut" sections would be from the ABS brain connector. Checking the previous photos I see that ABS is fitted. I would assume that the system was not working?

When I collected my K75RT, the two ABS modulators were in a bucket with the harness intact. (Mr Klompy is still looking after my yellow bucket). I just tucked it up behind the rear mudguard after sealing the brain connector with silastic and a clip seal bag.

Cheers, D.

The following posts represent the deconstruction of the fuel injection wiring harness.

Some of the pics will have notes. All of the pics are intended to help me remember of what it looked like. After I make this post I'll take it off the board and set it aside for now. I'll leave all the zip ties holding the wires together to keep each cluster together for now.

Then I'll start on the main harness.







I did this to avoid cutting any wires while removing the covering.









Steve reminding me I cut this off while trying to scavenge parts for another project. I still have to connector.









.

.















As far as I can tell, the joining of the green/white wires and the yellow/brown wires must have been done this way due to assemble needs, not function needs.





























I have a couple of observations.

One: If stupid is as stupid dose then I'm fairly stupid.

Two: Anything that hurts that bad should look worse.

Three: 18 year old electrical tape feels like baby snot mixed with contact cement.

Four: #11 Exacto blades rammed under thumb nails when Stupid forgot about not cutting towards one's self SUX!

.

 

"Great work" look forward to the next instalment.

BIG D

Good work.
What an interesting project.

Everyone should bleed for their bike at least once.

Main wiring harness mounted on the board. Due to the large number of connections, I'm going to identify and tag each one before
cutting it open.
At least it can't hurt, might help and looks good on paper.

I keep thinking this is one of those times where you might hear, "Hold my beer and watch this".

Shoganai wrote:Main wiring harness mounted on the board. Due to the large number of connections, I'm going to identify and tag each one before
cutting it open.
At least it can't hurt, might help and looks good on paper.

I keep thinking this is one of those times where you might hear, "Hold my beer and watch this".

Oh no not more blood letting "At least it can't hurt". You stab your self under the nail with a scapel and say it cant hurt.
Gees they breed em tough in your neck of the woods  

Posting on phone difficult.
Only gonna put up a couple of pictures.

Awesome  

You're off to a good start Gwen I shall be watching and waiting for each installment. Aren't we lucky to have such easy ways to take photos nowdays.